
Ronk Tgg 

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Xhe Practical f^otel Steward 



By JOHN TELLMAN. 






Published by 
THE HOTEL MONTHLY 

325 Dearborn St., 
CHICAGO. 



^IFOtJJ. 









O ^ -i O 

By 






l_ibp«ry of Coo--'<'i«s 

Two Copies Rect' to 
JUL 16 1900 

SECOND COPY. 
ORDER DiV'StOS. 

JUL 25 1900 






P 

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> IDEAL KITCHEN. 



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P/\N V^f^SHER^ 



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, Jo- 







jbmpanying plan iMustrates a kitchen lo 

detached building and supposed to be 

i given a first consideration in t&e build- 

hotei. 

ed above the basement, or on th« second 

as nothing but the ceiling and roof above 

/faciiitating arrangements for ample ven- 

la the structure bein^ away from the main 

^ kitchen fun>es will penetrate the hotel. 

jior is finished in enameled tile or brick. 

4d floor. There are no partition walls.ex- 

Hone back of the range which is of brick. 

krtitions seperatingthe different depart- 

ist of a sheet iron Iwse three feet high 

nted with wire screen. Ihereisiio wood 

en except the table tops and the liuin; 

t sinks and ice boxes, which makes it an 

to keep til e room clear of roaches and 

rniin 

»rd can stand in anyone place in the kit- 
t what is going on ererywhere in tlie room, 
ing only one entrance and exit for em- 
leans of an iron stairway tive feet wide, 
sy for anyone to come and go from the 
oticed 

s kitchen (or in the basement) »re the 
g rooms, the storerooms and the waiters" 
>ms. 

n and light are by means of windows a 
et from the floor on the sides, and by 
loors or hatches in the ceiling, permitting 
»f heat and smoke through the ventilators 
!a hip roof. I would have the kitchen 
opaque glass and guarded with wire 

ifange is a large cap or hood to carry off 
i smell, arising from the cooking, through 

warmer I would have not over four feet 

high by two and a half feet wide, and 

ong, the two fronts of steel rolling blinds. 

t'9i/'i1 opened there is no obstruction of view 

r^/^ U it will be noticed, are arranged against 
»e sinks for two departments being to- 
_to require as little plumbing as possible 
-Served from the cold meat room. 
' /feck is located conveniently under the 
?. It is built in partitions to hold three 
[itanding on the edce. 
KEY TO DIAGR.AM 
steamers g Cake and toast range 
to Pudding warmer 
1 1 StairwaV •<> low er floor 

13 Egg boiler 
closets 13 Roll warmer 

14 Salad service 
i^ugh 15 Silver cleaning room 
ilers and steamers 

S PA C £. I this plan will show to anyone exper 
:hen work, that there is plenty of room 

• ^.f ■> y T^-rT -^^- f'^erything handy, so to speak, and 
^fTS can make their round and secure 

/Vl /4 / i\l *'''''^"' confusion or hindrance. 

red or more people can be served from 



Ipthes 
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P/\N WASHERS 




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VEGETABLE 
ROON\ 



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KITCHC/V DINlt^Q ROOM 



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AN IDEAL KITCHEN. 

Designed by John Telliiian for "The Practical Hotel Steward.' 

The accompanying plan illustrates a kitchen lo 
cated in a detached building and supposed to be 
designed and given a first consideration in the build- 
ing of a new hotel. 

It is located above the basement, or on tlie second 
floor, and has nothing but the ceiling and roof above 
it, thereby facilitating arrangements for ample ven- 
tilation; and the structure being away from the main 
building, no kitchen fumes will penetrate tlie hotel. 

The interior is finished in enameled tile or brick, 
and has tiled floor. There are no partition walls. ex- 
cepting the one back of the range, which is of brick. 
All other partitions seperating the diff'erent depart- 
ments consist of a sheet iron base three feet high 
and surmounted with wire screen. I'here isiio wood 
in the kitchen except the table tops and the lining 
of the large sinks and ice boxes, which makes it an 
easy matter to keep the room clear of roaches and 
all other vermin. 

The steward can stand in anyone place in the kit- 
chen and see what is going on everywhere in the room. 

There being only one entrance and exit for em- 
ployes, by means of an iron stairway five feet wide, 
it is not easy for anyone to come and go from the 
kitchen unnoticed. 

Below the kitchen (or in the basement) Ire the 
help's dining rooms, the storerooms and the waiters' 
dressing rooms. 

Ventilation and light are by means of windows a- 
bout four feet from the floor on the sides, and by 
large drop doors or hatclies in the ceiling, permitting 
the escape of heat and smoke through the ventilators 
at the top of a hip roof. I would have the kitchen 
windows of opaque glass and guarded with wire 
netting. 

Over the range is a large cap or hood to carry off 
the smoke or smell, arising from the cooking, through 
the chimney. 

The plate warmer I would have not over four feet 
eight inches high, by two and a half feet wide, and 
twenty feet Tong, the two fronts of steel rolling blinds, 
so that when opened there is no obstruction of view 
overhead. 

The sinks, it will be noticed, are arranged against 
partitions, the sinks for two departments being to- 
gether so as to require as little plumbing as possible. 

Salads are served from the cold meat room. 

The tray rack is located conveniently under the 
sorting table. It is built in partitions to hold three 
trays each, standing on the edge. 

KEY TO DIAGRAM. 

1 Vegetable steamers 9 Cake and toast range 

2 Tables 10 Pudding warmer 

3 Sinks II Stairway to lower floor 

4 Ice boxes 12 Egg boiler 

5 Cooks' clothes closets 13 Roll warmer 

6 Garbage chute 14 Salad service 

7 Baker's trough 15 Silver cleaning room 

8 Pastry boilers and steamers 

A glance at this plan will show to anyone exper- 
ienced in kitchen work, that there is plenty of room 
for the workers, everything handy, so to speak, and 
that the wtf'ters can itialce tlieir round and secure 
their orders without confusion or hindrance. 

Five hundred or more people can be served from 
this kitchen. 




IDEAL KITCHEN BASEMENT. 

iK'Kianed by John TMllman. for The Practlc*! Uol«l SMwMd " 
The accompanying design presents the basement 
plan of the ideal kitchen (illustrated on preceding 
page) and belongs to the steward's or working de- 
partment, of the hotel. 

Tiie floors arc all of concrete or cement; the par- 
titions of brick and tile, excepting the help's kitchen. 
which is partitioned with sheet iron and wire. 

The waiters' dressing room is arranged with fifty 
ckers in which they can hang their clothes. A 
ith. niljoiniiig the toilet, opens into this room and 
IS for their exclusive use. 

The helps hall (separate men's and Rii is' dcpu t- 
mcnts) islaiRP enough to act uniniod.ite sixty men 
and thirty live girls at one seating in the two rooms. 

In the entrance way, at the point whei c the w.ii( li 
man is located, all tho help of both the back lul 
front part of ihc house enter and leave thron: 'i i 
turnstile governed by the watclunan. and ar<' sub 
jtct to his scrutiny. No one can come or go wiilioui 
exhibiting an employe's pass 

The receiving door opens into the store room an<l 
is under the control of the steward and receivm 
ihe beam of the wagon scale is controlled m ilic 
receiving room. 

The receiving room is partioncd off with glass, af- 
fording a view of the store room. 

The ice plant is large enough for all cooling pur- 
poses in kitchen, pantry and storage, and inalus 
rnough ice for all other purposes. Ihe dri.ikniK 
water for the dining room and guests in their room:* 
IS congealed in the bottles from which it is served, 
instead of \Ue old style pitcher service with broken 
ice and water. 

Tlie ice cieam plant is also located in this depart 
ment. ^ 

The fuel for the kitchen is brought by the kitchen 
fireman through a passageway behind the watch 
■nan's stand, the door of which is controlled by ll.. 
natchman. 




FLOOR. 



/xxVH ^^ezzz^^v 



lomi 



iCe C R EA/V\ 
; Cf ENGINE 




^IDEAL KITCHEN BASEMENT. 

/ Designed by .lohn Tellman, for "The Practical Hotel Steward ' 
"^ The accompanying design presents the basement 
/ plan of the ideal kitchen (illustrated on preceding 
/ page) and belongs to the steward's or working de- 
' partmcnt, of the hotel. 

The floors are all of concrete or cement; the par- 
titions of brick and tile, excepting the help's kitchen, 
which is partitioned with sheet iron and wire. 



W 



D 



/\n fl/ /\r B u/ LD tr^ Q 




The waiters' dressing room is arranged with fifty 
lockers in which they can hang their clothes. A 
' '^ bath, adjoining the toilet, opens into this room and 
/ is for their exclusive use. 

/ The help's hall (separate men's and girls' depart- 
' ments) is large enough to accommodate sixty men 
> and thirty five girls at one seating in the two rooms. 

\ / In the entrance way, at the point where the watch- 
/ man is located, all the help of both the back and 
front part of the house enter and leave through a 
turnstile governed by the watchman, and are sub- 
ject to his scrutiny. No one can come or go without 
exhibiting an employe's pass 

The receiving door opens into the store room and 
is under the control of the steward and receiver. 
The beam of the wagon scale is controlled in the 
receiving room. 

The receiving room is partioned off with glass, af- 
fording a view of the store room. 

The ice plant is large enough for all cooling pur- 
poses in kitchen, pantry and storage, and makes 
enough ice for all other purposes. The drinking 
water for the dining room and guests in their rooms 
is congealed in the bottles from which it is served, 
instead of Uie old-style pitcher service with broken 
ice and water. 

The ice cream plant is also located in this depart- 
ment. 

The fuel for the kitchen is brought by the kitchen 
fireman through a passageway behind the watch- 
man's stand, the door of which is controlled by the 

ivatchman. 



AUGUST 1896. 



DATE LOINS 



REMARKS: 



ViZl IM 2;. 

I 



STEWARDS' REPORT 

for week ending- August 19, 1896. 



ITEMIZED S TATI-.MENT OF DAILY ISS 
The making of different kinds of reports d 



while others require more detailed report, s 
how much it requires of each kind of mate 
each guest; how many pounds of loins, ribs 
butter, dozen eggs, gallons milk, etc., and t 
cent, used for each guest. To make such a 
regularly requires an extra book as illu 
above. 



AMT. 


COST. 


PER 
CAPITA 


AMT. 1 


Inc. 


DEC 


23;t 


34 


9b 


.0272 






58.S 


73 


lb 


.0571 






178 


13 


48 


.0105 






9( 


n 


28 


.0088 






723 


51 


17 


.0422 






224 


41 


55 


.0324 






480 


52 


51 


.0409 








8!» 


93 


.0702 








60 


94 


.0475 








.5fi 


80 


.0434 








73 


05 


.0.571 








113 


35 


.0884 








173 


49 


.1.354 








13.5 


79 


.1059 






.7670 




984 


35 









Loins 
— Ribs 
tTeal 
Pork 
autton 

8eef tenderloin 
Poultry 
liame 
-Hisc. meats 
Ailk and cream 
lysters 
i-ish 
i'egctables 

ruits 

rooeries 
;ggrs and butter 

'otal issues 



otal house count for seven days 1281. 
)ost per capita S.7684. 



THE STEWARDS REPORT. 
The "steward's report, " illustrated above, is 
on the desire of the management. The n^ken from this "Itemized Statement of Daily Issues" 
desire to know only how much it costs for eacfook and shows the per capita cost of each of the 

jfincipal articles of consumption, as, for instance, 
, 16 first entry "Loins" shows for the week "233 lbs." 
,t a cost of *34.95, which sum, divided by 1,281, the 
ggregate of the week's house count, shows the loins 
5 have cost only about 2% cents per capita per day; 
nd so on for the balance of the report. The differ- 
nce of the per capita total of $76.84 on the "Itemized 
tatement ' book and the per capita total $76.70 of 



This book is folio page about twenty-two Ug stg^vard's report, is simply in the non-extension 
across by sixteen inches deep. It is ruled in s[ fractional parts of cents too small for computation 
vertical department columns and eight hor i a report of this kind. 



AUGUST 


1896. 




















ITEMIZED STATEMENT 


OF 


DAILY ISSUES 


RVI 

1» 
2 




























DATE 


IX)INS 


HI US 


VBAIi 


PORK 


MUTTON 


BKEF 
TORLiOlN 


POULTKV 


GAME 


Mi^r 
mkat.s 


MILK ANP 
'■KKAM 


niTT 




FISH 


K 


T 

.50 
10 


V GTBLsIgROC'RIES sundries por^^ay 


13 








I'il 


I.) 


H 


au 




64 








11.'. 
107 


X 


o:> 
49 


CI 


11 


2il 


•:6 


2 


CI) 










1 


4( 
«l 




» 


4r, 




.'t 


20 

20 

to 




8 


&n 




5 

I 


70 
10 




9 


47 
♦. 
0: 
29 
























/5 


;; 






«; 










?.) 


r,4 




// 


■>u 


100 




«(, 










.s 


Oil 





— -' 


oil 


-- 


~ 




— 


""l 




— 


:-.' 


.<■: 




9 


HI, 




T~' 


■>l> 










I.tS 


im 


It 


5t 


r. 


in 


I-;:: 


15 


w 














;xi... 


'•' 


00 








11 


.Ml 










h 


12 


25 

m 

7.'> 




6 
5 


15 
95 




:s 
2 

14 

1 


90 
82 
85 

•:h 
















— 


^ 


III 




;.) 


.■>■> 


11' 














L' 










is:i 


21 


r,ii 










II 


T, 






<", 






■•1. 




^ 


.V 




;.( 


.S' 




IJ 


/(/ 




■-■> 


.S2 










llo 


.i/ 


15 














di 








ion 


I 


no 
211 


^' 


II 


:ii 


vr. 










t 

10 


44 




s 


2- 




1: 


20 

»l 
no 

0« 




H 


'J' 




11 


50 
90 
25 




15 


50 
50 




6 
1:' 


86 
9:i 
54 
75 






























.V 


;cj 




"""■ 


•iO 


^™" 


IS 




~ 


14 


.v-^ 


CO 




'JO 


■"" 








/) 


/// 




X 


i';^ 




;\ 


It. 




" 


.'« 




/•-• 


«i 




16 


llil 




2;* 


«s 










v.r> 


«> 


1« 


.')« 


R 


4n 


119 


M 


8)i 








fiO 








■1 

4 


S."i 
'.IS 
20 




9 


OS 




III 


K.i 




.. 


70 




21 

2 


50 
50 




11 

5 


50 
40 




4 
14 

10 


1:'. 

.51' 


















,y 


■/(' 




/; 


s> 












-.', 
















/i 


•/r 










/.! 


Hi 




;y 


0: 




/" ;n 




.'( 


:/ 




■i4 






;« 






2.'» 


./(/ 










131 


;.? 


17 


"'■' 


K 


k;. 


Kill 


r; 


Wl 








.'II 


( 


IIS 


'ili^ 


1 
li 


S'.l 

i 1 

l!.-| 


•I'.i 


1' 


(i: 


no 


li 


;i;i 










1 


08 
52 




8 


47 




:: (ill 
1-4 40 




11 


20 




11 


50 
75 




5 
2 


60 




2 
9 
9 
2 


99 
27 
04 
















Til 


S 


.S.i 




/•.' 


.VI 










4 


«/^ 




;.>' 


;/.s' 




<l 


'/r 




,, 


'.Id 










14 


*. 


1 s 


v; 




i-'l r,Y, 




II 


2/^ 




/••; 


■>:. 




>y 


J.-, 




24 


«•! 










IK 


«rt 


IK 






it: 






























.'>! 


t 

4 












' 


.■>^ 




'.I 


4'.l 


— 


- 


20 










14 
•ill 


50 
50 
.'III 

:«i 




s 


4.'. 
■>ll 




11 
4 

■>') 


90 
IK, 
















(1 


ni 


.V5 


19 


1: 


2,S 


t!l 




»■-' 








.■)!! 


i 


1: 


;f; 


i< 


.s: 
















c 

14 


10 




K 


20 

20 
Vi 
00 




8 


00 




:\ 


50 

so 

25 




I 


Cll 




9 
8 
2 


82 
58 
04 
50 
















?1 
M « 






— 




?; 




., 


."■' 










•/ 


;.< 




i; 


.S.i 
















?" 


VJ 




>. 






:"i 


^1 


_^ 


■■< 


m 




4 


2.5 




; 


«(/ 




■>-. 


ii4 










/?; 


.'« 


DT 


/.-J 


;;s 


;. 


^.^ 


!/J 


II 


;»> 


:;>.,■ 


,3; 


/; 


2l'J 


41 


5.3 


4H0 


m 


61 










HII 


.'« 




W< 


•J4 




r;.i 


7« 




5« 


XII 




in 


.•(.: 




TV 


«.5 




i:i 


4fi 










9H4 


.?o 



Total cost of lli'st aeven uuIumiiK 
Total cost of meats 



281 09 
371 02 



Total columns 9 to 15 $613 3H 



Total house count for week (seven days) 1281 
Cost per capita $.7684 



STEWARDS' REPORT 

for week ending August 19, 1896. 



ARTICLK. 


AMT. 


COST. 


FER 
CAPITA 


AMT. 








iNC 


DEC 




Loins 


23;i 


34 


95 


.0272 








Ribs 


585 


73 


15 


.0571 








Ve*I 


178 


13 


48 


.0105 








Pork 


91 


11 


28 


.0088 








Mutton 


72; 


54 


17 


.0422 








Beef tenderloin 


224 


41 


55 


.0324 








Poultry 


480 


52 


51 


.0409 








Game 
















Misc. meats 




Hll 


93 


.0702 








Milk and cream 




60 


94 


.0475 








Oysters 
















Fish 




56 


80 


.04.14 








Vegetableg 




73 


05 


.0571 








Fruits 




113 


35 


.0884 








Groceries 




173 


49 


.1.354 








Vggtt and butter 




13.% 


79 


.1059 










.7670 




Total Issues 




984 


36 











Total house count for seven days 1281. 
Cost per capita 1.7684. 



IIRMIZKI) SIATKMKNT OK D.MLY ISSUES. 

■Ihe making of diffi-rcnt kinds of reports depends 
on tho desire of ,1,.. nuinngement. Tlie majority 
'les.rc to know only liow mud. it costs for each guest, 
|vl..le others reci.iuMnoro detailed report, such as 
'^o^v much i, requires of each kind of material for 
"ch guest ; how n,any pounds of loins, ribs, sausage 

utter, do^en eggs, g,,lions milk, etc., and the per 
"m.u.edforeach,uest. To make such a report 
ablve. ' '''"''" '" '"''' ''°°' '^ illustrated 

^c!ZlT '"' '°"° '''' '''•^"' twenty-two inches 

V ra ;'"""""''^^''^'=''- ^' -"led in Sixteen 

department columns and eight horizontal 



spaces, seven of which are for days of the week and 
one for "remarks." 

Each vertical department is subdivided into two 
columns for quantities and prices, for instance: t lo 
first entry on the first line under head of "R'bs 
■•!.: lbs." at a cost of •■.^15. . 4. ' and under head ol 
••mutton" "IIS lbs." at cost of "$8.05 " and "W lbs- 
at cost of ••.^7-49. • the total cost of mutton fo. t .^ 
day (.August 13) being $ISS4 [AH totals in «*''*^^' J^'^ 
tration are printed in italic figures.l The ^°^'' J° ^^ 
of all issues for the day is shown in the en 
$153.00 in the 16th column. ^ 

All the items in this book are copied and .n^--^-'-^ 
from the regular issue book. 



In making this report I have invariably found it 
desirable to separate the meats from the rest of the 
supplies, as shown in the "Remarks" space, where 
the total cost for the week of the first seven columns 
's fa8i.o9. and of all meats, (including miscellaneous 
meats in the eighth column) to be $371 02 

The total of the rest of the supplies (columns 9 to 
»S) is shown to be $613.33 and the grand total of the 
sixteen columns is $984 35- 

e will suppose the house count averaged 183 a 

ay during the week, or a total of 1,281 for the week. 

•vide $984 (the grand total of issues for the week) 

' 1.281 (the house count for the week) and the 
"u t IS a fraction over 765^ cents per capita a day. 



THE STEWARDS REPORT. 
The "steward's report," illustrated above, is 
taken from this •Itemized Statement of Daily Issues" 
book and shows the per capita cost of each of the 
principal articles of consumption, as, for instance, 
the first entry ••Loins" shows for the week •'233 lbs." 
at a cost of $34. 95. which sum, divided by 1,281, the 
aggregate of the week's house count, shows the loins 
to have cost only about 2% ct-nts per capita per day ; 
and so on for the balance of the report. The differ- 
ence of the per capita total of $76.84 on the "Itemized 
.Statement " book and the per capita total $76 70 of 
the steward's report, is simply in the non-extension 
of fractional parts of cents too small for computation 
in a report of this kind. 



miNiioD y r 



iVMinj joyoso 



y/NA/JlO'3 v 



lDN3lAJ310aa 



QJldVlQ la 




W. H. BENDER 



W.J.QUNNING 



C.CLARKE. 



L.W.HOHLER 



THCO, PETIT 



IDKAS IN SETtING A BANQUET TABLE 
A Pittoriitl F.vprtssion of Ike Art of lUinqurt Cater in^ 
by Sti'frtil (Itnllemfii I'romiHtnl in the Hotel, 
Nestiiuriint mid Cliih World 
(Hvo putfolT.) 
W. H. BKNOKK 
W. M. IJcmliT, caloriT the Richelieu, Chicago. 
Naplun ill plain fold on plate. Pluto one Inch from 
eilKi- iif table and knives and forkg in line. Oyster 
fork beiiii; lirst to be used Is laid crosswise with 
pnniKS loiuhinK the bowl of the soup spoon. Much 
silver on the table ia confnslnR to the diner, there 
fore put on only such as is required, and replenish 
as the meal proRresses. No butter. Oo not load 
the labU- with condiments and relishes but liavetheni 
passed artnind. It spoils the appearance of the table 
to hide the cloth under a profusion of ware. 
I BooquKt 6 Halt 

1 l.iiiito folk iiiul l\»li fork II C'hiiiii|>n4(i<o 

H Steol lilitilKkiilfo MtiiiiKpoun T Clnrpt 

bullor kiUro, oyKlur fork R Hiiiuorno 
4 Boiip (tlHh Witlor 

W. J. CUNNING 
W. J. Uunninfc, SMperintendont Columbus Club. 
Chicago: Napkin in attractive fold with Vienna 
roll over the forks. Oyster fork to lean on plate. 
Believes in loading a table as much as possible with 
•▼erythfnp, :x9 a big array of china, glass and silver 
looks pretty, especially under illumination. Small 
silver peppers, red and black, for each four; also 
celery, olives, salted almonds, etc.. on the table so 
that every fourth person can reach them. No ira 
spoon, no castors, no butter (no one has a right to 
eat butter except at breakfast, luncheon or supper ) 



Sherry with the soup, white wine with oysters and 
fish, then champagne. [Mr. Gunning thinks in serv- 
ing a banquet that cheese should come with the 
salad instead of at the end of the repast. Nothing 
is nicer than Camembert or Brie, he says, with celery 
or lettuce salad. The salad course marks the change 
in the dinner and cheese with it obliterates the taste 
of the preceding courses and prepares for the sweet 
finish ] 

I Ojrsterplule on dinner plate, t Individual salt o«llu 

Adiilly on dlniKtrplatv until 5 Water 

artvmoup plate la remuT(>d. « CbuinpaKDe 
1 3kiilvoii. a forkii. an oyster 7 White wine 

fork and soup 8|ioon. 8 8herry 

I Napkin 

R. G. CLARKE. 

R. G. Clarke, manager Kinsley's: For six course 
dinner. A simple decoration of loose flowers. Nap- 
kin artislically folded on plate. Oysters to come 
after guest is seated. Bread sticks and pulled bread 
laid on the table cloth. Glasses arranged in curve 
and so placed as to show a distinct row of each par- 
ticular kind of glass lengthwise of the table. Oyster 
fork, which is the first to be used, is laid to right of 
plate over and crosswise of the knives. 

I Oelory 

i Hri>ad Rtlokii 

» I'uUtM bn>ad 

4 Salt ■tinker and |>epper 

6 U<e orconi Rpuun 

Huti«.>r knlfo 

" Soup spoon 

8 Mtb kntr« 

L W. KOHLER 
L. W Kohler, steward Chicago Beach Hotel. 
Napkin on plate. Would have three dishes of olives 
on the table and salt shaker and pepper for every 



U 3 steel blade knives 

10 •> h. »vy iii,.«t riirks,a Bab fork 

fame fork and a salad fork 

11 Hatter 
1.' Water 

1.1 ('liampairne 

14 Clurei 

15 sbeiry 



two. But very little silver on the table, but lots on 
sideboard. No teaspoons until required. 
1 Butter knlfe.soup spoon and 3 Champacno 

larKe knife 4 Clarrt 

> 07*ter fork and lar^e fork 6 Hauterne H Water 

THEO. PETIT. 
Theo. Petit, caterer, formerly with Spiers & Pond. 
Paris: late proprietor of the Restaurant Francais. at 
the Wid-Winter Fair, San Francisco: 

Napkin on plate. No water. Sherry to go with 
oysters : claret with the fish and entiees: champagne 
with the roast. One salt shaker and one pepper to 
do service for four diners, but prefer castor for all 
condiments. Bread in large filatters. Tea spoons 
and other silver passed as required during the meal. 
1 nHb knife larxe fork 

S Lance knife 4 champarne 

5 Oyster fork, soup spoon and 6 Claret B Sberrr 

W. O. COLENfAN. 
W. O. Coleman, manager Burley & Co.'s hotel de- 
partment: Should be centerpieces. Two large salad 
castors on the table. Oyster and dinner plates. 
Bread and small patty of butter on a plate Napkin 
in long fold to right of plate. 

1 Oyster plate on dinner platelU Salad fork 

2 Brvad and butter plate 1 1 Tea and coffee spooni 

3 Napkin 12 China salt celery dip not 
« Bread and butter knife-pearl orer \\i Inch hlK>> and 

handle with funcy shaped staodInK In a little plate 
blade 13 Cut glass pepper siiaker 

6 Dessert knife— plated bladeU Water 
• Heat knife— steel blade 15 Claret 

7 Oyster fork lii Cbampacne 

8 Soap spoon 17 Port 
B Larire fork 

D. L. STAPLES. 

D. L. Staples, headwaiter the Auditorium, Chicago . 
Leave oysters off until guests are seated Place 
everything where it comes most handy (or the diner. 



A salt shaker for two. or a salt cellar for each one. 
One pepper for four 

1 IndlTlduitl <<alt fork 

2 Niipkln on plate .'i Butler 
.'I I.nrKC kntfe.Houp n|)Oon,des- H Water 

NiTtknlre. butter knife 7 Chaiupagno 

4 Ijurgo fork, tlxh fork, oyster R Huuternu U Sherry 

D. D. CI.KMKNCK. 
D. D. Clemence. manager 'flie Ontario, Chicago. 
Oyster plate only. Crackers on 6 inch plate— one 
plate between two people. No relishes— order them 
if wanted, would have some dainty dish or bric-a- 
brac china. Bread on tray. 

1 Crncker plate 7 Napkin 

2 Oyitur plate 8 Oyst«r. dessert II meat forks 

3 IV|>i»!r uud Halt 9 Soup spoon 

4 Ituttcr 10 Water 

5 Two tea Spoons 11 Chuiupagne 
t1 Meal knife, butter spreader. 13 Claret 

dusnort kiiifit 13 Port 

J. R COLEMAN 

J. R. Colcin.iii. manager Grand F^acihc Hotel Cafe 
Chicago, ai.d formerly of Young's and the Parker 
House, Boston 

Said Mr. Coleman: Several years ago when I was 
at Young's in Huston Nicolini gave a dinner party in 
honor of Paiti and requested me to serve caviar sal 
ad before the oysters. Nicolini is a genuine epicur> 
and his choice of caviar salad before the oysters was 
a happy one. The caviar is mixed with lemon juic' 
and whipped lightly and very carefully with a fork 
so as not to break the delicate fish eggs. A small 
portion is placed on a heart of lettuce leaf and 
served on a dainty cnina dish. It creates an appetite 

Mr. Coleman would have a dish of this caviar sal 
ad on the dinner plate when the guest takes his seat 
Butter, crackers and olives on sideboard. Only su( li 
silverware on the table as is required for the early 



^DN3wiioa'a 



QJldVlQ'ia 




RKL 



L,W.KOHLER 



THEO. PETIT. 



two. But very little silver on the table, but lots on 
sideboard. No teaspoons until required. 

1 Butter knife, soup spoon and 3 Champaeno 

large knife 4 Claret 

2 Oyster fork and large fork 5 Sauterne B Water 

THEO. PETIT. 

Theo. Petit, caterer, formerly with Spiers & Pond, 
Paris ; late proprietor of the Restaurant Francais, at 
the Wid-Winter Fair, San Francisco: 

Napkin on plate. No water. Sherry to go with 
oysters ; claret with the fish and entt ees ; champagne 
with the roast. One salt shaker and one pepper to 
do service for four diners, but prefer castor for all 
condiments. Bread in large platters. Tea spoons 
and other silver passed as required during the meal. 

1 Fish knife large fork 

2 Large knife 4 Champagne 

3 Oyster fork, soup spoon and 5 Claret Sherry 

W. O. COLEMAN. 
W. O. Coleman, manager Burley & Co.'s hotel de- 
partment: Should be centerpieces. Two large salad 
castors on the table. Oyster and dinner plates. 
Bread and small patty of butter on a plate. Napkin 
in long fold to right of plate. 

1 Oyster plate on dinner platelO Salad fork 

2 Bread and butter plate 11 Tea and coffee spoons 

3 Napkin 12 China salt celery dip not 
* Bread and butter knife-pearl over \M inch high and 

handle with fancy shaped standing in a little plate 
blade 13 Cut glass pepper shaker 

5 Dessert knife— plated bladeU Water 

6 Meat knife — steel blade 15 Claret 

7 Oyster fork 16 Champagne 

8 Soup spoon 17 Port 

9 Large fork 

D. L. STAPLES. 
D. L. Staples, headwaiter the Auditorium, Chicago: 
Leave oysters off until guests are seated. Place 
everything where it comes most handy for the diner. 



A salt shaker for two, or a salt cellar for each one. 
One pepper for four. 

1 Individual salt fork 

2 Napkin on plute 5 Butter 

3 Large knife. soup spoon, des- 6 Water 

sert knife, butter knife 7 Champagne 

4 Largo fork, fish fork, oyster 8 Sauterne 9 Sherry 

D. D. CLEMENCE. 
D. D. Clemence, manager The Ontario, Chicago. 
Oyster plate only. Crackers on 6 inch plate — one 
plate between two people. No relishes — order them 
if wanted, would have some dainty dish or bric-a- 
brac china. Bread on tray. 

1 Cracker plate 7 Napkin 

2 Oyster plate 8 Oyster, dessert & meat forks 

3 Pep.Der and salt 9 Soup spoon 

4 Butter 10 Water 

5 Two tea Spoons 11 Champagne 

6 Meat knife, butter spreader, 12 Claret 

dessert knife 13 Port 

J. R. COLEMAN. 

J. R. Coleman, manager Grand Pacific Hotel Cafe 
Chicago, and formerly of Young's and the Parker 
House, Boston. 

Said Mr. Coleman: Several years ago when I was 
at Young's in Boston Nicolini gave a dinner party in 
honor of Patti and requested me to serve caviar sal- 
ad before the oysters. Nicolini is a genuine epicure 
and his choice of caviar salad before the oysters was 
a happy one. The caviar is mixed with lemon juice 
and whipped lightly and very carefully with a fork 
so as not to break the delicate fish eggs. A small 
portion is placed on a heart of lettuce leaf and 
served on a dainty china dish. It creates an appetite. 

Mr. Coleman would have a dish of this caviar sal- 
ad on the dinner plate when the guest takes his seat. 
Butter, crackers and olives on sideboard. Only such 
silverware on the table as is required for the early 



stages of the banquet, the remainder on the side- 
board for use when required. Napkin enfolding an 
oyster roll, and bread sticks to go with soup laid on 
the cloth between the napkin and the plate. A salt 
shaker and pepper to every other plate. Would not 
have individual salt cellar as they are not neat. 
Sherry with soup; claret with game : champagne with 
pastry. Claret should be in the room at least three 
hours before the banquet so that it can be served at 
the temperature of the room. 

1 Caviar salad 6 Napkin with roll 

2 Tea .spoon for caviar 7 Bread sticks 

3 Meat knife and soup spoon 8 Water 

4 Large fork and oyster fork 9 Cliampagne 

5 Salt shaker and pepper tolO Claret 

every other plate 11 Sherry 

FRANK S. MURPHY. 
Frank S. Murphy, headwaiter Virginia Hotel, Chi- 
cago: Guest card placed on napkin on service plate 
After oysters and soup are served the service plate 
is removed to give place to fish plate. A bread and 
butter plate and butter spreader in front of service 
plate. Bread and butter in thin sandwiches, (two 
kinds of bread) passed around after guests are 
seated; also plain bread. No butter on table, but 
on sideboard and brought on request. 

1 Service plate 8 'J Bonbon dishes 

2 Napkin 10 Oyster. Ush.service and large 

3 Guest card forks 

4 Bread and butter plate andll Large, service & fish knives 

butter spreader and soup spoon 

5 Almond Individual 12 Water 

6 Pepper individual 13 Champagne 

7 Salt Individual— gold-linedl4 Claret 

silver spoon 15 Sherry 

A. E. GLENNIE. 

A. E. Glennie, supt.. Union League Club, Chicago. 

My dear Mr. Willy: As per your request of yes- 
terday, I herewith send you a rough sketch of what 
is my idea of laying a banquet table, not knowing 
whether it will be any use to you, as views of cater- 
ers and stewards vary so much in this matter that I 
hardly know what to say. 

The most of the caterers stick to the old idea that 
they must have their tables lacfen with candies, cakes 
and confectionary pieces, and the napkins and table- 
cloths must be frilled and flounced, to make the ban- 
quet a success. Now this was all right some ten or 
twenty years ago, but it is very passe now, and not 
considered good form. Even smilax is not used to 
any extent now, or the set looking pieces of flowers 
made in basket shape, but instead a few maiden-hair 
or common ferns laid gracefully upon the cloth (not 
in a straight row), and a cut glass bowl filled with 
roses or any seasonable flowers, is, in my opinion, a 
more artistic decoration and certainly has not the 



stiffness or set look of a single string of smilax in the 
centre of the table or the artificial baskets that are 
used so much. 

So putting this forth as the proper table decoration, 
there are several good reasons therefor. First, if 
the guest cares to carry away the flowers and they 
are loose, he can do so; if they are wired, the pieces 
are large and bulky and to tear them apart would 
ruin the design, and if they were taken away whole 
but few would be able to be accommodated ; but when 
they are in a vase loose, they can be pulled apart and 
distributed among the guests and still retain their 
freshness. A flower withers very quickly after being 
wired; still, most florists will recommend the set 
pieces, for what reason I do not know, except it gives 
them a chance to work off their old stock, which 
would not look well in a vase There should always 
be a button-hole, either a carnation or small rose, 
placed at each gentleman's place, upon the napkin. 
If ladies are present, half a dozen pinks or small 
roses tied loosely together should be placed at their 
places. So much for table decorations. 

The old time caterers also have the idea of putting 
on all the silver that is necessary to be used for the 
whole dinner. This I also consider bad form, as it 
takes up room and inconveniences the guests. Fresh 
silver can be brought at any time. 

My sketch shows a banquet table spread, three 
kinds of wine to be served. 

It is a good idea and it is done very often now, to 
remove wine glasses from the table when service of 
wine is finished, as it gives the guests more room, 
but this is a matter of taste. Oysters should not be 
placed upon the table until after the guests are 
seated. It is also considered better form to pass 
bread and not have it on the table. Salted almonds 
should be served at all banquets, for they aid di- 
gestion. 



i Black pepper 

2 Red pepper 

3 Salt 

4 Butter dish 

5 Dish Of salted almonds 
(J Water glass 

7 Champagne glass 



8 Claret glass 
<J Sauterne glass 

10 Oyster lork 

11 Butter knife 

12 Sovu> spoon 

13 14 Knives 15 Napkin 
16 17 Forks 

GEO. FULWELL. 

Geo. Fulwell, steward The Bates, Indianapolis, Ind 

1 Bread 8 Bone dish 

2 Napkin 9 Boquet 

3 Hors d'oeuvre plate 10 Menu card 

4 KIsh fork and entree fork 11 Salt and pepper 

5 Kntree knife, butter knife, 12 Water 

soupspoon 13 Champagne 

ti Butter 14 Claret 

7 Oyster fork 15 Burgundy 



PREFACE. 

This book "The Practical Hotel Steward" is written 
from the standpoint of one who has had years of prac- 
tical experience, and reflect what, in his judgment, are 
the best methods for a steward to follow. The author 
does not claim to be infallible, or that his methods are 
better than those of many others; but he believes them 
to contain the elements of success. 

John Tellman. 




JOHN TELLMAN. 



The Praetieal Hotel Steward. 



COPYRIGHTED 1896 BY JOHN TELLMAN. 



THE STEWARD'S DUTIES. class, capacity and internal arrangements being 
The steward is a man who manages the domestic prime causes. He will find some houses not so mod- 
concerns of another. ern, others not so well equipped as some in which 
Stewardship is by no means created by the ad- he has previously been employed. That should be 
vancement of the times, or improved methods of con- no reason for him to insist that "the pantry is in the 
ducting hotels, clubs or restaurants. On the con- wrong place," "the furniture and utensils are com- 
trary, we find this quite an ancient position of honor pletely out of date:" or, "worn out and should be 
and trust. For instance: in Scripture, we find that thrown out at once;" or, "he cannot work in such an 
Abraham had his steward: Joseph was the steward old rattletrap." While a great deal of the above may 
of Potiphar; and, as we follow history down to the be true, yet others had charge before him and the 
present time, all royal households and men of wealth house (may have) made a greatideal of money for the 
and position accustomed to maintaining an estab- proprietors; and if he will only try to accustom him- 
lishment always have a manager for their domestic self to. the house as he finds it, he may find things 
affairs — a steward. not so badly arranged after all. 

The hotel steward of today is supposed to be the GIVE HELP A FAIR TRIAL. 

same kind of a man as history describes-a manager, a steward on entering a new place should not do 

and an honest, trustworthy, judicious man on whom so with the belief that all the help of his predecessor 

the domestic welfare and happiness depends. His must be fired out. Wait and give them a trial, for 

duties in olden times were to supply the wants and they may be a great deal. better than those which he 

necessary servants for the entertainment of those by can get to fill the places so vacated. Should he find 

whom he was employed. The duties of the hotel by fair trial that the old help are undesirable, then 

steward of today are to keep the house properly by all means change as quickly as possible, 

supplied with provisions, to govern the help engaged HELP MUST RESPECT HIM 

in preparing such provisions, and to direct the ser- 

AJsteward of-judgment knows how to maintain the 
vice. 

ESSENTIAL QUALIFICATIONS. respectjof all with whom he may come in contact. 

A steward should possess these three qualifications The position being clothed with considerable dignity 

—honesty, a fair education and good judgment. A requires him to be of a reserved manner, speaking 

man, no matter how efficient, will not be retained in ^o those in his charge on business only ; yet he should 

position when found to be dishonest. The fact that "ot be haughty or hard'to. approach. He can be 

a man has "the itching palm" will travel many miles pleasant to the yardman or any of those under him 

farther than himself, and he often wonders why he ^^'^ ^t the same time feel (and have them feel) he is 

cannot find another job. Education is necessary, their superior. 

for it goes with judgment. A man without judgment RELATION TO PROPRIETOR OR MANAGER, 
cannot manage others unless depending upon brute The steward's relation to the proprietor or mana- 

force; and where force must be resorted to there can ggr is that of assistant in the fullest sense. The 

be no harmony and no pleasure in work; and often proprietor or manager handles the business part: 

he will be obliged to dismiss help who have proved the steward manages the domestic concerns. The 

most valuable assistants. steward has charge of the back part of the house, 

ADAPT HIMSELF TO CIRCUMSTANCES. attends to the marketing, sees that the help are all 

To be a successful steward a man must be able to in their places of duty, that the meals are on time, 

adapt himself to circumstances, as notwo hotels will superintends the preparation of the bills of fare, is 

be found just exactly alike in every respect — the particularly careful that economy is observed in all 



2 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

branches of his department, and sees to it that his should be promptly attended to; and should the ar- 

expense account does not exceed the fixed limit for tides not be on hand they should be gotten as soon 

theclassof house in which he isworking. He should as possible. These little attentions sometimes save 

feel on terms ot utmost ease with his employer in a great deal of annoyance. 

order that he may converse freely on any topic ap- RELATION TO THE HEADWAITER. 
pertaining to the business in which both are inter- i„ 3,, ^g,, regulated hotels the steward is indirect 
ested-to consult freely on all matters. By so doing authority over the headwaiter and dining room for- 
he is certain to learn the ideas and desires of those ^es. But as the headwaiter is usually a man of in- 
it is to his interest to please and satisfy. I believe telligence the steward should use caution in his ap- 
it proper and businesslike, in most instances, for the pUcation of such authority, lest a breach of harmony 
steward to forego his own ideas to those of his em- ^jgj^t ^^^^^ q^jj^ j^^^ jj ^j^^ headwaiter does not 
ployer, for it is his employer's money which the try to fulfill the stewards directions it is in the stew- 
steward spends for the house. The steward should ^rd's power to remove him or cause him to be re- 
not go to the proprietor or manager with all little ^Qy^^, But this is not always best. The headwai- 
troubles of no consequence. He is surely capable ter may be a first class man. He comes in direct con- 
of dealing with them judiciously without the assis- ^^^^ ^^,-^^^ ^^^ ^1^^ ^^^^^^^ 33 ^^^1, ^^ ^(^^ manager or 
tance of the man who is probably more occupied proprietor, and his efficiency has (very likely) proven 
than himself. itself in many ways. It would be hard for the stew 
RELATION TO THE GUESTS. ard to remove or try to have him removed without 

While a steward should at all times treat guests serious remonstrance. With cool deliberation such 
whom he meets with courtesy and respect, it is not friction need never occur, for the reason that you 
advisable to court acquaintance. In some houses should not try to fill his place (perform his duties) 
it is even better to keep at a distance, for the reason when he is there for that purpose. For instance: 
that (especially with regular boarders) they often the steward going into the dining room during meal 
hope to gain thereby some personal favor, which, if time and usurping the headwaiter's duties, such as 
granted and found out by the other guests, they seating guests, etc. The headwaiter is not incap. 
would be apt to feel slighted and cause complaint, able; or, if he is he should not be there, for in that 
I will say, however, that he should not be deaf to case it would surely be impossible for him to main- 
suggestions from guests or patrons of the house; he tain discipline and the obedience of his waiters. It 
may hear something which may prove beneficial. If is, however, proper for the steward to call attention 
a complaint is made give a fair hearing and then to and criticize the appearance and efficiency of the 
promise investigation and remedy. It is to be remem- waiters. It is to the steward's, as well as to the 
bered that a steward, no matter how old in the busi- headwaiter's interest, that waiters are in proper 
ness is never too old to learti. dress, and, above all, clean in appearance; also that 
RELATION TO THE HOUSEKEEPER. they serve neatly and with all possible dispatch. 

The steward's relation to the housekeeper should ^he steward also gives directions to the headwaiter 

be that of an associate in business, and should be ^^ ^"^ ^^'^"g^ ""' addition in service, that he may in- 

cordial. While in some (especially country) hotels fo^m his waiters before meal hours; also any new 

the steward is in authority over the housekeeper, rules in working. When arranging for banquets or 

yet in the well arranged and regulated large city ^P^<='^' ^^''''^^ °^ ^"^ ^'""^^ ^^^ l^eadwaiter awaits 

houses they are entirely independent of each other, ^he directions of the steward from beginning to end. 

But they have a great many things in common and ^H this can be done without any breach in harmony, 

can help and accommodate each other in a great THE ORGANIZING, GOVERNING AND FEEDING 

many ways, especiall}' in the management and ex- OF HELP. 

change of help. It often happens that the steward A very important part of the steward's duties is 

is short of someone in his department: the house- the organizing, governing and feeding of the help, 

keeper can send him one of her help to fill the va- I will begin this subject by dividing the working de- 

cancy temporarily. On the other hand, she, for some partment into different branches as follows: 

reason or other, may find it necessary to keep one or i. The cooks, 

more of her help late in finishing certain work in the 2. Pastry and bakery, 

house. It will not inconvenience the steward to see 3. Fruit pantry, 

that they are well fed. Also any requisitions of nee- 4. Silver and glass pantry, 

essaries the housekeeper may send to the storeroom 5. Dish service. 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 3 

6. Servants' halls. and other material which he uses amounts to about 

7. Storeroom. three-fifths of the expense of the table ; and if he is in- 

8. Wine room. different can very easily throw away hundreds of 

9. Yardmen. dollars almost unnoticed, until the steward's month- 
10. Assistant or inside steward. ly statement is made. He has only to trim a loin of 

[The latter allowable only in the larger houses.] beef or a rib closer than necessary and th.row the 

DUTIES OF THE ASSISTANT STEWARD. waste into the stock boiler where it can not be found. 

Where the steward has an assistant, the latter's The stock boiler never tells tales. For this reason 1 

duties are to relieve the steward of the immediate would never force a reduction of salary on cooks, 

supervision of the pantries and the servants' halls, vvithout first ascertaining if they willingly accept it. 

to keep an account of all breakage, to look to the Should they not. then change the crew at the figure 

saving of what food is returned from the dining room which the house can afford. 

in good condition, to keep order in the kitchen when When a chef resigns, giving the required time to 
the head steward can not be there. The assistant secure his successor, and he has shown himself faith- 
steward is generally clothed with sufficient authority f"' and competent, it is well to let him remain until 
to dismiss from service any employes under him. In his time expires; but should it, for any reason, be 
many instances, however, he is restricted and is re- necessary to remove him, it is not advisable to give 
quired to report all cases of insubordination to the ^0° ^°"S notice, in some cases none at all, but have 
head steward. The inside steward should be a man his successor right in the kitchen at the time the 
of some executive ability and action, and should not change is being made. I say this, because I have 
be undecided about every trivial offence. He should found, almost without exception, when notice was 
have a bearing of some dignity. Where there is a g'^en to the chef, the house was the loser. No mat- 
competent chef who knows how to keep his crew in ^""^ ''ow well meaning the chef may be his cooks wilt 
order the inside steward has no authority over the see that nothing is saved. I doubt if there is any 
j.QQj^g_ ^other branch of business where such waste and des- 

^^^^ truction is practiced by men who are being removed 



from their places in a peaceful way. 



THE COOKS. ^ 

Upon the cooks depends the good''name of the 
hotel. Nc matter how weWthe rooms are kept, how THE PASTRY AND BAKERY, 
elegant the ofl|ce and rotunda, or what modern con- The pastry and bakery, the second branch, is of 
>enienGcrthehotel may have, they are all lost sight "° '^ss importance than the kitchen. When a hotel 
of when the cooking is bad. Therefore the steward has poor bread or rolls there is complaint.no matter 
will see that the cooks are the best the house can how good the cooks. When the pastry cook and 
afford. A good many hotel men think that when they ^aker are competent, sober men it is generally this 
have a chef with a good reputation, that ought to branch which causes less annoyance than the others, 
settle the whole matter. They surely find themselve Being located in most instances away from the kit- 
invariably mistaken; because a chef can ,tot do als ^hen they do their work quietly, as they are not in- 
the work himself. And when it is expected that a terfered with in their labors by waiters or other help 
chef, no matter how good he is, is supplied with in- ^^"'"S ^°' orders, (I will except resort hotels where 
competentassistants, there will be disappointment! kitchen and bakery are in one room, and the pastry 
When he should instruct his men in their work it is ^ook with his assistant serves his preparations.) 
best he does it himself, and while he does their work Their storeroom account is also more easily kept in 
his own is neglected. He can do only one man's ^heck. the material used by them being generally 
work at a time. More than this : no hotel can afford cheaper and but little waste. The total cost of ma- 
a crew of men who must learn at the expense of the. *e'''^'' ^^ compared with the kitchen, is a little more 
j^pygj, than 3-16 of the total issues of supplies on the ave- 

The cooks prepare all food which enters the dining ""^ge. If the men of this branch are not competent 

room; and in most places the chef also directs the '"°''^ ^^^'^ '''"' ■■^^"''' ^'^^''^ '''"' ^"^ ^^'■"^'^ ^ ^^^ 

serving, as in this way he can observe if his men ^ut some one thing or another will be a failure, 

prepare and serve most attractively. After the dish THE FRUIT P.\NTRY. 

passes him it is again subject to the scrutiny of the The fruit pantry is in most houses in charge of 

Steward. With the chefrests the economy of the kit- girls : for that reason it requires a great deal of the 

chen. He can make the steward's administration steward's personal attention. Here all relishes, 

an expensive or an economical one, as the meats fruits, desserts, tea, coffee, milk and cream, butter, 



4 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

and, in fact, everything not served by the cooks, is of the pantry girls. Where waiters are permitted to 

served from the pantry. Good pantry girls are not help themselves they often take cream instead of 

plentiful. When the steward has a good one he is milk fordrinking purposes. 

fortunate and should try to keep her. It requires a SERVING THE BUTTER. 

girl who is obedient and has a strong will of her own Butter is usually prepared for the dining room by 

—one who will show no partiality, serving waiters in ^^^ ^f jhe waiters, and then served from the pantry. 

turn as they call, and giving portions as directed by ECONOMY IN THE PANTRY. 

the steward. Early in the season of small fruits the y^,, fruit, bread, crackers, relishes, milk, cream. 

pantry often proves more expensive than need be, etc., not used, should be returned to the pantry from 

especially if you have girls th-re who will try to j^e dining room, and not taken to the dish pantry. 

please waiters, who always try to prevail on them ^here a great deal may be lost. 

for favors in serving larger portions. ^^^^ SILVER P'^NTRY 

TEA AND COFFEE MAKING. ^Yhe silver pantry is in accordance with the quan- 
The makin ; of coffee and tea belongs to this branch, ^■^^y g^^j quality of the service of the hotel. In a great 
In large houses there is a man who attends to the ^^^y places there is no silver pantry at all, the dish- 
making of coffee and tea, assists at carving at meal washers washing the knives, forks, glasses, etc., at 
time, opens the oysters and clams, or helps do so. one end of the sink ; but where a house has a fine 
He serves the coffee and rolls and makes the toast silver service and cut glass there should be a sepa- 
and griddle cakes. In other houses the work ofcof- ^ate room, which it is possible to lock after working 
fee and tea making devolves on the assistant stew- hours. This should be in charge of one, or, if very 
ard ; and again, in others, there is a girl who attends busy, two girls. On regular silver cleaning days the 
to this, as well as the baking of cakes, making toast headwaiter generally furnishes men for assistance 
in a place convenient to the dining room entrance, j^ ^^is work, since it is he who keeps account of this 
She also has charge of the rolls and all breads, ^vare, 

serves them in portions instead of permitting the THE DISH PANTRY, 
waiters to help themselves, as in some places. The dish pantry is the place where all soiled dish- 
Careful attention should be paid to the making of es are taken from the dining room. It generally 
coffee. Every hotel man knows how much annoy- consists of a large sink, one sorting table and a draln- 
ance it has given him, and yet it is not a difficult thing ing rack. Where there is a machine for dishwash- 
to do. It takes no more work to make good coffee ing the latter is not needed, but a table instead, 
than to make it poorly. In the first place, when you SATISFACTORY METHOD OF WASHING 
have urns for making drip coffee, see that they are DISHES. 

evenly heated, and be sure that water is boiling be- Where a house has no dishwashing machine I have 

fore pouring it on the coffee. I would make the bags found the following method about the best to adopt: 

of fine linen crash : then have the coffee of the best Have a sink made of two-inch pine wood about 14 

quality ground very fine, using about one pound to feet long, 2 feet deep, 2I.2 feet wide, divided in three 

every two gallons of boiling water; let steep, then parts — one for hot soapsuds; the second for clean 
draw and pour it over a second time. It ought to hot rinsing water; the third for soakingdishes which 
stand about fifteen minutes before using Make ^j^ ^ot wash easily, such as egg cups and dishes 
only enough at one time to last abjut an hour. Start jj^at have been caked. Have a live steam pipe 
your second urn about fifteen minutes before the placed in the first, so you can keep the water at the 
first is empty. By instructing the coffee maker to desired heat; then get about six wire baskets six- 
proceed in this manner there will always be good ^gg^ inches long by eleven inches wide and eleven 
coffee. inches deep; have them lined with thin oak strips to 
I should never make tea in an urn. When there j^ggp the wire (which should be galvanized) from 
are pots to serve, have boiling water continually marking the dishes. After the dishes are carefully 
during meal hours and draw into the teapots as taken scraped and sorted have the dishwasher (who 
to the guest, about the same way as it is done in first should be a strong man) place them firmly, yet so 
class restaurants. Tea loses all its good qualities the water can pass around every dish. When the 
after standing over fifteen minutes and becomes real" basket is filled he should set it in the soap suds and 
ly unhealthy as a beverage. let it stand until he has filled a second basket, when 
SERVING THE MILK AND CREAM. he should take the first and plunge up and down four 
Milk and cream should always be poured by one or five times. This forces the water around the 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 5 

dishes. Then they sliould be plunged just as many left there until they are unfit for any use. then they 

times in the rinsing water. If the water is hot the are taken out and sent to tlie help. Fish saved up 

dishes will be thoroughly clean and dry without for most a week. Friday it is sent to the help. The 

wiping. There is very little chipping. The method hash is burnt; the potatoes two days old are sour; 

is in many ways preferable to a machine, which often food, none of which is fit for humans to eat — can you 

does not give tiie satisfaction its expense would expect your help to be satisfied with it? Ifthissame 

warrant. By the above described method one man stuff were used the same day, or not later than the 

and three girls can wash the dishes for 200 people, next, warmed upand served nicely it would be eaien. 

SAVING AT THE SCRAP TABLE. There are many inexpensive articles that can be 

There should be arranged at the sorting table a given the help, such as dried fruit stewed for break- 
kind of railing on which are suspended a number of ^^st; there are plenty of cheap relishes; and in the 
tin vessels made square in order to fit closely to- summer, onions, radishes, cucumbers and occasion- 
gether. in which everything is saved which comes ally watermelons and other refreshing field products 
back from the dining room. The sorter should not ^re cheap enough. In houses where there is a sepa- 
be allowed to use his judgment as to what should be ^^^^ kitchen for the help less complaint is heard, 
saved. The steward or inside steward should watch The help should be well fed and it can be done 
this branch very closely and after the meal, should without too great expense 
deliver these savings to the chef, who can dispose HELPS ME.AL HOURS. 
of them. The steward should post in a conspicuous place in 
THE SERVANTS' HALLS. '^'^ halls the hours during which the help are to have 

In houses where there are white and colored help, their meals served, 

there is a dining room for the white, and another for THE STORE ROOM, 

the colored help; also a second officers' hall. The store room is the real business branch of the 

NURSES AND CHILDREN'S DINING ROOM. steward's department. The buying and selling is 

The second officers' hall is also often used as the d^"« t^^''^' ^'^^ °"'y difference from the regular re- 
nurses and children'sdining room and is under direc- tail grocery store being that goods are sold to the 
tion of the head waiter: those priviliged to eat here ^^^'""^ departments of the hotel at cost price, al- 
are the engineer, carpenter, head porter, linen room 'o^^'"6 "Otl'ing for shrinkage. It is in charge of a 
girl, head laundress, billiard room man and second "^^^ ^^"^^ ^^^ storekeeper-in large houses two 
bartender men, one the receiver, the other the bookkeeper who 

also issues, with the assistance of the receirer. 
FIRST OFFICERS' DINING ROOM. 

When the first officers' do not eat in the regular '^"^ STORE ROOM ICE BOX. 

dining room there is a room especially provided for ^" addition to the necessary storage rooms there 

them, or they take their meals in the Ladies' Ordi- '^ a large refrigerator, in two compartments, in which 



nary. 

WAITERS FOR THE HELP. 

Where there is colored help they should be waited 

on by men of their own color ; the white help by girls. 

Girls are always best for help's waiters ; they are REGULAR HOURS FOR STOREROOM ISSUES. 

Cleaner and are more prompt and reliable. ^l^ere are regular hours during which time the 

supplies are issued to the different branches or de- 



are kept fresh meats in the one, dairy products in 
the other part. The stock of goods is kept regulat. 
ed according to the time required to procure fresh 
fresh supplies from the market. 



FEEDING THE HELP. 

The feeding of the help is beyond a doubt the 

most annoying branch of the steward's department. 

To satisfy them is almost out of the question. No 



partments, who send regularly filled requisitions. 
THE STEWARD IN THE STOREROOM. 
Here, also, is where the steward can be found dur- 



matter what you give, even where they are fed from '"? »'^^ ^'"^^ ^« *^ "°' otherwise occupied, looking 

the carving stand, they will find fault: but if the °'-^' '^'^ accounts, making up his market list and 

steward will pay personal attention he can keep Preparing for his next day's bill of fare. 

them from complaining. Often, no doubt, there is STOREROOM MONTHLY INVENTORY. 

good cause for complaint, especially when their food Stock of supplies on hand should be taken at the 

is prepared in the main kitchen by one of the cooks, end of every month and submitted to the office. 

■Vegetables and meats left over from the regular THE WINE ROOM. 

meals are set in the ice box by the chef and often The wineroom is kept entirely seperate from the 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 



store room and is in charge of the assistant steward 
or wine storeroom man; but in many houses the 
head bartender issues the wines. When in charge 
of the latter the accounts are kept in the office and 



WINE ISSUES. 
The wine steward should fill no requisition for 
wines or liquors of any kind for guests or bar unless 
the same is first recorded in the office. A guest, in 



a very filthy and neglected wine room is usually the ordering, should fill in a card, printed for thatpurpose 



result. When wines are served to the dining room 
from the wine room direct, the wine room should be in 
charge of the steward's assistant or a wine steward. 
TEMPERATURE OF WINE ROOM. 
The wine room should be located where the tem- 
perature is most equable— not too warm in the sum- 
mer nor too cold in the winter. There should be 
also a refrigerator arranged with racks on which 
to keep such wines for daily use as champagnes, 
white sti'.l wines, ales, beers and mineral waters. 
Clarets, burgundies and all other dry red wines 
should not be chilled before use 



The waiter takes it to the clerk or cashier, who O.K's 
it, which means that it has been charged to the guest. 
Stock is taken once a month. This branch is one of 
the most important factors in the success of an Amer. 
ican plan hotel, many not being able to exist where 
the traffic in wines is prohibited by law. 
THE YARDMAN. 
The yardman is needed for all the rough and heavy 
work, helping the storekeeper and receiving the 
groceries, freezing ice cream, keeping the yard and 
sidewalks clean, looking after the help's toilet and 
doing such other work as he may be called upon to do. 



The following is a list of utensils required to conduct the back part of a hotel of about 250 rooms in 
first class style. 

I Nutmeg grater. 

14x18x2 inch flat square 



KITCHEN. 
I 16 foot range. (4 oven) 
I 30 inch broiler. 
I 24 " 

I Bain marie about 21^x4 feet. 
I 40 gallon stock boiler. 

I 25 

3 Steamers. 

I 12 in. marble mortar & pestle. 

I 12 ft. carving stand &bain marie 

I Egg boiler. 

I 10 foot plate warmer. 

I Toast, waffle and cake range. 

1 Copper fisli boiler. 

a 32 quart copper sauce pans. 

2 20 " 

4 16 ■• " ;; 
3 12 



8 inch copper saute pans. 



braserie. 
inch wire broilers. 



14 
16 
16 
13x1 

"'^'s " '■ " , ., 

QX12 " " oyster broilers. 

2 French potato fryers. 
I dozen egg fry pans. 

3 Hotel fry pans, 
I Black iron grease pan. 
3 Porcelain lined iron pots for boil- 
ing vegetables 

I 10 inch potato masher, plunger 

or Petroli. 
1 Saratoga chip cutter. 

1 large Enterprise meat cutter. 
3 dozen fcrged basting sp.oons. 

2 3 prong steet flesh forks. 

2 6)4 inch flat skimmers. 
6 No. 10 flat handle skimmers. 
6 Cake turners. 
I dozen gravy ladles (small) 
J 1. •■ " (medium) 
I " soup 

3 Egg whips. 
3 Flour dredges. 
I K pt , I pt- and I quart measure 



6 14x18x2 inch flat square pans 

for steaks 
2 8 inch Chinese strainers. 
26" 

I large collander. 
I puree sieve 
I •' brush 

1 bread crumber 
6 Grease brushes 

12 Union parers and corers 

6 Vegetable knives 

12 8 inch and 12 10 inch milk pans 

2 40 quart dish pans 

2 30 

2 20 " " " 

2 14 

6 Roast pans to fit range 
6 " " half size 

3 Waffle irons 
I Meat block 

I Block scraper 
I Wire block brush 

1 " brush fish cleaner 

2 Pot chains 
I Ice pick 

I Cork screw 

6 Wooden pails 

I Cedar tub (for potatoes) 

6 2 gallon bowls for mayonnaise 

BAKERY AND PASTRY. 
I Oven for bread 
Candy kettle 

1 Dumpling steamer 

2 Peels 

I Mixing trough 
I Proving box 
12 Bread trays 
I Scales 

I I quart measure 
I I pint 

1 1^ •• 

2 Egg beaters 
I Flour brush 

I Copper beating bowl 

I large and 2 small flour sieves 

1 Strainer (large) 

2 Chinese strainers 
I Fruit press 

1 " parer 

6 Basting brushes 

2 large wooden mixing bowls 
2 medium " " " 

1 dozen " spoons 



1 Felt jelly strainer 
12 Sponge cake pans 

12 8 inch and 12 10 inch Milk pans 

12 Brown bread molds 

12 Bread pans (French) 

12 " " (plain) 

12 Russia iron baking sheets 

12 Muffin molds 

36 deep and 36 shallow Pie plates 

2 Ladles 
2 Dippers 

I Copper custard pie dipper 

12 dozen jelly molds, individual 

6 Ice cream molds, brick 

12 dozen charlotte russe rings 

I Lemon squeezer 

I 16 quart copper sauce pan 

I 10 

I Pastry range, coke or hard coa\ 

I Grease pan for frying 

1 40 quart dish pan 

2 20 " " " 

3 14 

2 Rolling pins 

1 40 quart freezer, steam power 

I Packing can 

I 16 quart freezer complete 

I Ice tongs 

I " chisel 

I " steam crusher 

PANTRY. 

1 12 gallon hot water urn 

2 10 " coffee urns 

I Tea urn, if tea is made in large 
quantity 

1 Bread cutter 

2 " knives 

1 C an opener 

2 small wooden tubs 

2 Wood pails 

3 Basting spoons 

2 Small ladles 
I Cork screw 

6 Earthern bowls 

I Ice pick 

I Knife polisher 

1 Sugar dredge 

3 I gallon pitchers (agate ware) 

2 Cream dippers 

3 Preparing knives 
I Collander 

1 Strainer 

2 dozen tea strainers, individual 



THE I'RAC TICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 



The following is a list of utensils required to conduct a forty room 

2 Grease brushes 
2 WaftU' irons 
I dozen dairy pans, 8 inch 



KITCHEN. 



2 oven range (with water back) 
24 inch broiler 
i4gallon stock pot (copper with 
faucet) 

10 foot steam table (with stove) 
6 foot plate warmer (with stove) 
16 qt. sauce pan for soup, copper 
12 " copper sauce pans 



4 qt. copper sauce pans 



2 10 inch saute pans 

3 9x12 wire broilers 

2 10 inch wire frying baskets 
I Grater 

6 Egg frying pans 

I Black iron grease pan 

1 Plunger or Petroli potato masher 

3 Porcelain lined iron cook po(s for 

vegetables 

2 Hotel frying pans. No. 24 
I Saratoga chip cutter 

I Enterprise meat cutter 
1 dozen basting spoons 
I 3 prong steel flesh fork 

1 6}-£ inch skimmer 

2 small " 

2 Cake turners 
6 small ladles 

3 large " 
I Egg whip 

I Flour dredge 
I Nutmeg grater 

4 Flat pans for cut meats 

I Chinese strainer, medium 
I Collander 



4 Wooden pails 

I 40 quart dish pan 

3 20 

3 14 " ■' '■ 

4 Roast pans to fit range 
4 •' " half size 

I Vegetable bain marie 
3 Earthen bowls for salads and 
mayonnaise 
When the house is not supplied 
with steam as is often the case, a 
hot water stove ol a good size will 
supply the kitchen with hoi water, 
heat the dishes, carving stand and 
bain marie, and at the same time 
save the expense of water backs 
in the ranges, which is consider- 
able where there is hard well water 

FOR PASTRY COOK. 
I Portable oven. (Hubbard is a 
good one.) 

1 Stove 

2 large wooden bowls 
I small 

I large mixing pan 

I small peel (short handle) 

I Scales 

I I quart measure 

I I pint 

I K •• 

I Egg beater 

I Flour brush 

I Beating bowl 

1 Flour sieve, large 



country hotel. 
I " " small 

I Strainer 
I Basting brush 
}^ dozen wood spjons 

1 Rolling pin 

3^ dozen sponge cake pans 

3^ dozen iron cake baking sheets 

4 Bread pans 

2 dozen deep pie plates 
2 '• shallow " 

2 Dippers 

I Custard dipper 

I Prooving box 

5 dozen individual jelly molds 
5 " charlotte rings 

1 Fruit press 

2 20 quart dish pans 

I 16 quart ice cream freezer 

I Packing can 

y^ dozen brown bread molds 

I Cake griddle 

I Pudding steamer for stove 

14 dozen mufhn molds 

PANTRY. 

1 8 gallon coffee urn 

2 Bread knives 

1 Can opener 

2 small wood tubs 

2 Preparing knives 

1 Ice pick 

3 Basting spoons 

2 small ladles 
I Cork screw 

1 Sugar dredge 

2 I gallon pitchers of agate ware 
I Strainer 

I dozen individual tea strainers 
14 " earthen bowls 



Managing Help. 

T/ie /aw of military government is alike the world over. 
It is as old as history. Every country has civil laws 
which undergo a revision, often a complete change to con- 
form with the spirit of the times; but the rules, discipline 
and etiquette, which form the Jundamental principles of 
military organization, will always remain as they are. 
The fact that every man is recognized in his station only 
alone makes it possible that one general can move the armies 
of a nation successfully. No private can seek redress or 
make a report of any kind to any one but the officer im- 
mediately above him., nor can the captain officially ap- 
proach a general and thereby ignore the intermediate 
officers. On the other hand, the general, when giving or- 
ders, gives them to the colonel and so they pass down from 
officer to officer until they reach the lowest rank. Every 
man remains in his place and attends to the duties of his 
office, which, in order to attend to properly, keeps him oc- 
cupied without any time to look after the duties of some- 
one else: in short, every man minds his own business. 

Business concerns and corporations who organize and 
govern their forces on the above basis surely meet with 

best results, especially in large hotels. 

* 
* * 

The steward having just entered upon his duties 
wi'h a full crew of help for a house with a capacity 



of about 225 people and doing a prosperous business, 
the total number of his force is about twenty-seven, 
divided as follows: 
I Carver, who also makes coffee. 
I Headwaiter. 
II Cooks, including: 

I Chef, 

I Second cook, 

I Roast cook, who also broils, 

I Fry cook, 

I Butcher, who also attends the cold meats and 
salads. 

I Vegetable cook, (girl) 

I Fireman, 

I Pan washer, 

3 Girls for cleaning vegetables. 
I Baker. 
I Pastry cook. 

1 Girl to help in bakeshop. 

2 Girls in fruit pantry. 

I Girl in coffee and bread pantry. 

1 Girl in silver pantry. 

4 in dish pantry (i man and 3 girls) 

2 Yardmen. 

I Storekeeper. 

Witli such a force of employes at his command 
it requires continual vigilance to see that the best 



8 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

possible results are obtained; that all do the work in every corner of the kitchen, pantries, ice boxes* 

alloted to them with efficiency and dispatch, as on bakery, storerooms or cellars, and say "we always 

their prompt and harmonious movement, inconjunc- keep it so." 

tion with a force of comp.^tent waiters, depends the I will here enumerate a table of rules for the 

good service required to please the guest. They all government of help as an illustration: 

look to the steward for their orders and any differ- RULES FOR GOVERNMENT OF HELP, 

ences which may arise among some of them are re- i.— All employes must be punctual in reporting for duty. 

ferred to him for adjustment. He is their manager, ■2— Every one must be clean in habit and in work. 

advisor and judge and should rule in a firm and dig- j. — There shall be no loud, boisterous or profane lan- 

nified manner. He has but little to say to anv of guage, nor zvhistling or singing. 

them, except as concerns the work, from the time he ^.—Etnployes coming late for their meals will not be 

enters until work is done. served unless good cause is shozvn to the steward, 

THE LABOR MARKET TO BE CONSIDERED. ^^o. if satisfied, will order service. 

When the hotel is located at or near a labor mai k- .... , ,, 1, 1. j- j ^ ^ , j- 

Notice oj meal hours will be found posted in dining 

et, where the steward can easily select new help on 

■' ^ rooms. 

short notice, they can be more severely dealt with ^ a ■ i- . j.r j ■ z.- 

■' ^. — Any one wis/iiiig to see an employe during "corking 

than if he must send to other towns, thereby de- ^ .. ^ , ; . ^ r w 

■' hours must first obtain permission from the 

pending entirely on employment aeencies, necessitat- , j 7,7 ■ ■,- ^ ■., j n 

■' ^ ■' * V, V.O, ...^^j steivard. No visiting permitted otherzvise. 

ing an expense of railroad fare, and when they come a at n .i ^ t j ■., j ■ ti i.-., 1. 

" ^ t, ciivi «iicii iiicj. v.,^jiiic ^ — No one allowed to stand or sit around in the kitchen 

are often found to be not so good as what you have. when off dutv 

The good help do not as a rule want to leave the y.^There shall be no smoking or chewing of tobacco. 

Cities, if they can help it, unless exceptional good S.-All breakage will be charged to breaker at cost price. 

salaries are offered. The penalty for violation of any of the above rules will 

SOME HELP NEED MORE WATCHING THAN z, ^ v i /- ./ 

_,_.j„_,„ be a fine or discharge from service, as the case may 

O FHERS. 

There is seldom a time when all the help is just "''''''''"^''• 

what they should be. Some need more watching "^'^^ '^'""''^ ''"'^^ ^''^ "''"P'^' ^"^ >'^' sufficiently 

than others, but by using proper efforts it is often embrace all needs for any house large or small 

the case that some who prove poorly at first can be EARLY MORNING DUTIES, 

made to do good work. The steward should be an early riser and be about 

In order that the steward manages with success, '" '''"e ^° ^^^ "^^' ^he helps meals are ready and 

he should set a good example by being a man of good Promptly served, in order that they may be ready for 

moral habits and retain an even temper, not use duty when time requires them to be at their respec- 

profane or obscene language, abstain from tobacco tive places; after which he passes to the ranges to 

in any form on duty and use no intoxicants. see if the chef has everything needed. From there 

RULES MUST BE ENFORCED. THE DISH HEATERS. 

It is well to have a printed code of rules posted in he inspects the dish heaters, sees if they have been 
a conspicuous place, which should be strictly en- properly attended to. The dish heater is occasion- 
forced. Any rule is a laughable farce when no ally a source of annoyance, especially in houses 
attention is paid to it, especially if the steward vio- where the steam fitting is badly done; it may happen 
lates it hidiself. that just at a time when the dishes are needed they 

Too much can not be said against the use of to- are cold, and nothing is more unsatisfactory than to 

bacco. Think of the manager of the hotel showing serve a meal on cold dishes. It should therefore be 

a guest around, and, when entering the kitchen, to the first thing looked after in the morning. By 

see a cook at work with a pipe or cigar in his mouth ! opening full both the supply and return valves, wait- 

another a chew of tobacco, spitting all over the floor ! ing about two minutes, and then closing the return 

or a waiter carrying a meal with a mouth full of to- down to about half a turn ; and then, if it does not 

bacco! It will not improve the visitor's appetite to work, have the engineer open the traps, which will 

see such a thing, and his good opinion of the house always start a circulation, that may have become 

will be much lessened. stopped during the night. 

Cleanliness should be one of the first and most THE EGG BOILER, 

important rules of the house. The working depart- After this comes the egg boiler, of which we find 

ment should always be in such a condition that the a great many different kinds in use Of late there 

steward or manager can be |)roud to show visitors are patent ones by which the time required for boil- 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 9 

ing is regulated by clock or electricity. Where none permissable. the steward should by all means take 
of the latter are in use, I would suggest a simple and a personal interest in this work and he will thereby 
good one made of sheet copper about 20 inches long save many a dollar for the house. 
by 10 inches wide by 8 inches deep, resting on an After the midday meal is over the steward attends 
iron frame about 2 feet high, in which place a per- to his special work such as banquets, collations, 
forated pipe lengthwise, supplied with live steam, luncheons, etc., if there be any on that day, and ar- 
With this, water can be brought to a boil in a very ranges his menus for such spreads as may be ordered 
short time. The waiters place the eggs in small or in prospective. 

wire baskets, submerge in the boiling water, and After this he checks and O. K's. his previous day's 
watch time by a clock, v^iiich should have a place bills and sends them to the office, 
near by. THE MORALS MUST BE LOOKED AFTER. 

Then the steward sees if the toast and cake ranges The steward should try to maintain the highest 
are in order. He then hands the serving lists for the possible standard of morality among his help, for 
day to the pantry and gives his directions for the there is nothing more disgusting than to come in the 
service, in order that requisitions can be made on the kitchen and find the help using language of intimacy 
Storerooms in good season. and profanity. There should be no familiarity be- 

Then he );oes to the bakery and pastry and sees tween the male and female help while at work, or 
that bread and rolls are on time. anywhere as long as in the house. Where a rule to 

He sees if the yardmen are attending to their this effect is not strictly enforced the organization 
morning work becomes corrupt and short lived. 

The steward then goes to the storeroom and ar- REPRINL'\NDS. 

ranges his bills of fare for the printer (often this If the steward find any of his help violating a rule 

latter work is done the evening before), he should call the offender to one side, away from 

He then goes to his breakfast, and after that super- the hearing of the resi, and reprimand in a firm 

intends the serving of the best part of the morning manner, with injunctions and the penalties you will 

meal before going to market. invoke at its repetition; unless the offense is of 

[Where there is an assistant or inside steward it serious nature, when the penalties are applied at 

is the latter's duty to attend to the detail of the in- once. No offense should be overlooked more than 

side work above referred to, while the steward once. Such treatment as the above results much 

attends to the bills of fare and then goes to market.] better than where they are reprimanded in the pres- 

STEWARD SUPERINTEND CARVING AND ence of other help with a torrent of threats and 

SERVICE. oaths. When the offender is a man he will invar- 

The steward should be back from his trip to the iably resent it, and at times leave the house at once. 

market in time to superintend the serving of the And it is not manly to swear at helpless girls— only 

midday meal, especially where dinner is served at a bully would do so. Furthermore, such proceedings 

that time. At breakfast the guests come in the create disturbances which cause the rest to neglect 

dining room more scattered from the opening to the their work while it occurs, and the help lose respect 

closing of the door, but not so with the other meals for such a manager. 

of the day. For these the guests usually come in a AS I'O INTOXICANTS. 

rush, and the steward should be on hand to avoid The use of intoxicating drinks should not be per- 

any confusion likely to arise in the serving depart- mitted in the kitchen. The custom of it being fur 

ment on account of the impatience of the waiters, nished to the cooks is entirely foreign and I know 

and, also to see that a full supply of everything on of no instance wherein it has proven beneficial ; and 

the menu is constantly on hand; also that the carv- when the American educated cook comes to rule 

ing and serving of the proper quantity for a portion the kitchen, I have no doubt the use of beer, wine 

is in accordance with his directions. or whisky as a beverage in the kitchen, will pass 

In order to direct the serving from the carving away. Its effect on the cooks while before the range 

Stand economically, and at the same time attrac- has a tendency to excite, and often trouble has been 

tively, the steward should himself be a master of traced to this source. Where cooks are allowed to 

the art of carving. drink, others feel they have the same right and will 

To be a good carver is an accomplishynent -which every try to get it in some way. Where there is drunken 

steward is proud of. help there is also profanity: both go hand in hand. and 

Where a competent and trustworthy carver is not both offenses should be strictly dealt with. An ex- 



io THE PRACTICAL 

ample should be made of the first offender ; if the 
others value their places they will be more careful. 
IMPARTIALITY IN DECISIONS. 
Strict impartiality should be the steward's motto. 
In all his dealings he should not fine or discharge 
one and excuse another guilty of the same offense, 
unless the one is the cause of both. 

When there is complaint of a waiter not receiving 
proper attention, or any other difference which may 
arise, both parties concerned should be brought to- 
gether and the cause will soon be ascertained and 
can be adjusted. 

A decision when once made should not be changed. 
It is like a judge of a court, in whom the public soon 
loses faith if he can be persuaded to reverse his own 
decisions. 

THE BREAKAGE AND FINES BOOK. 
The steward should have a book in which an ac 
count of all breakage is kept, the name of breaker, 
articles and cost thereof, also such fines as he may 
have imposed for violating rules. Every evening a 
transcript of the day's charges in this book is sent to 
the bookkeeper so that the amount may be charged 
to their account and deducted from their wages. In 
all cases the ones so charged or fined should be noti- 
fied at once as it avoids complaints and dissapoint- 
ment. 

NO VISITING DURING WORKING HOURS. 
There should be no visiting of help during work- 
ing hours, and no strangers should be permitted to 
enter the working department, except on very urgent 
matters; then only with a pass from the office. Such 
visits always cause a disturbance or hindrance of 
some kind. There should be only one entrance to 
the working part of the house, where all help must 
enter and leave. At this entrance is usually a guard 
or watchman who admits no one but employes, and 
inspects all packages coming and going— this (r. 
prevent any attempt at dishonesty. (See illustration 
of watchman's gate in ideal kitchen basement, front- 
ispiece plate No. 2). 

EVENING DUTIES. 
■When work is done at night the steward sees that 
the chef has his meat rooms and ice boxes properly 
locked: that dishheaters, pantries, etc., are in good 
order for the next day. 

WARNING SIGNS. 
There should be signs at all entrances that none 
but employes are allowed to enter their respective 
departments, then only during working hours. The 
steward cannot be too strict in the enforcement of 
this rule : it helps to avoid leakages, which will occur 



HOTEL STEWARD. 

in any house where help is permitted to come and 
go at will. 

QUALI TY OF HELP. 

The help in the house should be the best that can 
be had for the wages the house can afford. Help 
can be had of all classes and all prices. It is seldom 
that a good hand is found willing to work for ex- 
tremely low wages, and then he only stays until 
something better is found 

NO PROFIT IN CHEAP HELP. 

I have never as yet found an instance wherein a 
steward has met with lasting success, whose custom it 
is, upon newly entering on his duties, to try to impress 
the management of the house that he can reduce 
the expenses below those of his predecessor by dis- 
charging all forces in his control and replacing them 
with cheaper help, which often (I may say, invari- 
ably) results in a house sheltering a lot of material 
who can find work no where else. Such a method 
has not only the effect to lower the standard of the 
help, but it also lowers the service, which, after this 
steward loses his position, his successor can not 
readily improve, unless the original scale of wages 
is restored. 

ORGANIZATION OF A FORTY ROOM COUNTRY 
HOTEL. 

I will endeavor to illustrate the organizations of 
several houses that have come under my notice 
from a small forty-room country hotel to a large 
summer resort, all of them successfully managed 
and making money for their proprietors. 

First : A 40-room country house, catering to trans- 
ients at $2.00 a day, the force is as follows: 

The proprietor, who acts as his own steward. 

There are in the office 

I clerk 

I porter, who also does the housework. 

1 boy who makes the calls and answers bells 
and keeps the office clean. 

2 bar tenders 

The kitchen crew, colored, as follows; 

I head cook, man 

I pastry cook, woman 

I assistant cook, (man) who also does pan- 
washing 

I vegetable cleaner 

I yardman (colored) who kills the poultry, 
makes the soap, and keeps kitchen supplied 
with fuel 

I bar porter who also acts as store keeper 

I dishwasher. 

In the dining room are three girls. They keep 
the dining room in order, wash silver and glasses, 
scrub the dining room floor twice a week, say Wed- 
nesdays and Saturdays, and mop the same all other 
days. They are reenforced at meal times by two 



THE PRACTICAL 

chambermaids. When business is rushing an extra 
dining room girl is engaged. The proprietor acts as 
head waiter; his wife is Iiouse Iceeper. She has 3 
girls, including the two helping at the tables; they 
keep the rooms in order and attend to the cleaning 
of paints. Two colored women do the laundry work. 
The house is noted for cleanliness and setting a 
good table, and has always been a money maker. 

The proprietor of the above house has a contract 
with the butcher to furnish all meats at a fixed rate — 
steaks, chops, roasts, boiling beef, etc., at uniform 
price, the same butcher preparing all meats ready 
for cooking. 

The following breakfast, dinner and supper bills 
are fair specimens of meals served at this house. 
BREAKFAST. 
Oranges and Apples. 

Oatmeal mush. 
Dry, buttered or milk toast. 

Fried chicken. 

Beef steak. Ham. Pork chops. 

Fried apples and bacon. 

Eggs fried, boiled or scrambled. 

Potatoes stewed, fried or baked 

Hot rolls. Plain bread. 

Tea. Coffee. Milk. 

DINNER. 
Vegetable soup. 

Fried Mississippi River catfish, tomato sauce. 

Pickled beets. Chow chow. Olives. 
Boiled mutton with turnips. 

Roast beef, brown gravy. 
Leg of veal with dressing. 

Baked chicken pie. 
Apple fritters, brandy sauce. 

Boiled and mashed potatoes. 

Sugar corn. Tomatoes. 

String beans. 

Cabinet pudding. 

Peach pie. Custard pie. 

Wine jelly. 

Fruit. 

Coffee. Milk 

SUPPER. 

Corn meal mush and milk. 

Cream toast. 

Baked bananas. 

Sirloin steak. Liver and bacon. 

Sausage. 

Fried or boiled eggs. 

Stewed pigsfeet. 

Cold roast beef. Ham. Mutton 
German fried potatoes Baked potatoes 

Hot waffles. Biscuits. Plain bread 
Apple sauce. 



Tea. 



Coffee. 



Milk. 



HOTEL STEWARD. ir 

The bills are changed daily and are written by 
the clerk for each meal. 

There are often served at this house Lodge instal- 
lation and ball suppers, when as many as a hundred 
couples are entertained. The proprietor never has 
any trouble to secure waitresses for an occasion of 
this kind, as there are always plenty of girls of re- 
spectable families pleased to give a helping hand. 
The chef and the pastry cook begin to prepare about 
two days in advance, and when the time comes and 
all is ready you will see as nice a table decorated 
with a profusion of flowers, stands of fruit and orna- 
mentals of salads, jellies, cakes, etc., as you could 
wish for. 

The daily per capita of this house averaged about 
52 cents. 

ORGANIZATION OF A ONE HUNDRED ROOM, 
TWODOLLAR-A-DAY HOTEL. 
The organization of a 100 room hotel at $2.00 per 
day in a small city is about as follows: 

I steward 
I headwaiter 
Chef and crew consisting of 

I second 

I broiler 

I fry cook 

I vegetable cook 

I fireman and pan washer 
3 dishwashers 
I silver washer 
I fruit pantry girl 
I baker and pastry cook combined 
1 baker's helper • 
I scrubber who does all the kitchen cleaning 

1 store keeper 

2 girls in help's hall 

The fruits, etc., are served direct from the store- 
room, which is located on the same floor with and 
adjoining (he kitchen, there being direct communica- 
tion. The coffee making is done by one of the 
waiters, the baking of griddle cakes and toasting 
bread is done by the baker's helper. The carving 
is done by the head cook and his assistant. 

There is no cream bought for the house, but the 
dairyman brings the milk fresh from the farm in the 
morning. It is then placed in cans which are sup- 
plied with air-tight covers, the milk is then placed 
n a box filled with ice water continually flowing from 
the large refrigerator. The next morning the cans 
are taken out and the milk drawn off by means of a 
faucet, leaving the cream in the can. There is no 
pantry, everything is served from the kitchen, bake- 
shop and storeroom, which makes bookkeeping 
rather difficult. The house sets a good table and 
the per capita cost is about 75 cents. 

The following are fair samples of breakfast, dinner 
and supper bills. 



a THE PRACTICAL 

BREAKFAST. 

Fruit in season. 

Rolled oats or Farina in cream. 

Radishes. Young onions. 

Broiled bluefish, parsley butter. 

B'ried panfish. 

Sirloin or tenderloin steak, plain or with onions. 

Ham. Calves liver and bacon. 

Mutton chops. 

Lamb hash on toast. 

Chipped beef in cream. 

Eggs as ordered. 

French fried or stewed potatoes. 
Rolls. Muffins. Toast. 

Griddle cakes, maple syrup. 

Apple butter. 
Tea. Coffee. Cocoa. 

DINNER, 

Split pea soup 

Boiled lake trout, anchovy sauce. 

Hollandaise potatoes. 

Olives 



Young onions. 



Pickles. 



Roast beef, drip gravy. 
Tame duck stuffed, apple sauce. 

Irish stew, Dublin style. 
Spanish puffs, wine sauce. 

Mashed potatoes. Boiled potatoes. 

Stewed tomatoes Green peas. 

Sugar corn. 

Sago pudding, lemon sauce. 

Mince pie. Cocoanut pie 

Almond ice cream. Assorted cake 

Nuts and raisins. Fruit. 

Cheese crackers. 

Coffee. 

SUPPER. 
Sardines on toast. 

Mangoes. Olives. 

Cracked wheat or pearl barley. 

Fried yellow pike, tomato sauce. 
Potatoes au Gratin. 

Broiled oysters on toast. 

Sirloin or tenderloin steak. 
Pork chops. 

Cold: Roast beef, ham and tongue. 

Eggs as ordered. 

Potatoes, baked, boiled or Saratoga. 
Potato salad. 

Tea rolls. Plain bread. Toast. 

Strawberry jam. Cake. 

Coflee. Chocolate. Tea. 

At this house were served numerous banquets, 
luncheons and collations. One of these was a re- 
past for 450 Knights of Pythias at one seating, price 
50 cents a piate. The dining rooms would only ac- 



HOTEL STEWARD, 
commodate 200, and in order to seat the balance all 
adjoining sample rooms, parlors and hallways had 
to be utilized. In this way room for all was found 
and everybody served and satisfied. There was no 
printed menu, and everything, excepting ice cream, 
oysters and coffee was on the tables before the guests 
were seated. The following was served: 

Stewed oysters. 

Crackers. 

Relishes. 

Assorted sandwiches. 

Chicken salad. 

Sardines. 

Deviled eggs. 

Ice cream. Cake. 

Coffee. 

This was a successful house and made money for 

the proprietor. The help was not always the best. 

There was one bad feature with this house, and 

that was the help roomed all in one hall regardless 

of color or sex ; the result can be imagined ! 

ORGANIZATION OF A TWO-HUNDRED-ROOM 
CITY HOTEL OF THE FIRST CLASS. 
The following is the organization of a 200 room 
house in Chicago, rates $3,50 to $5.00 per day, located 
in the business district. 

I steward 
I inside steward 
I head waiter 
Kitchen crew of ten, including. 

I chef 

I second 

I roast cook and broiler 

r fry cook 

I butcher and cold meat man 

I vegetable cook 

I fireman and chicken butcher combined 

1 pan washer 

2 kitchen girls 
I pastry cook 

I baker 

I girl to help in bakeshop 
T girl in fruit pantry 
I girl in coffee pantry 

1 girl in silver pantry 

2 dishwashers (men) with machine 
I storekeeper 

I yardman 

The help is all of the best class and well paid. 

The service is of the finest that money can buy. The 

whole organization works to perfection. The inside 

steward superintends the serving of all meals. The 

chief steward spends but little time in the pantries; 

he buys the supplies, to last not over a week. The 

milk and cream are supplied from a herd of Jerseys 

belonging to the owner of the hotel. The bills of 

fare are perfect, the following being fair samples: 

BREAKFAST. 

Strawberries Oranges Baked apples 

Oatmeal Cerealine Cracked wheat 



THK PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD, 



13 



Fried oysters 



Stewed oysters 



Beignets of pineapple, sauce Chartreuse 



Fried— Perch, Smelts, Codfisli cakes 

Broiled — Bluefish, Fresh mackerel. Shad, 

Salt mackerel Whitefish, Smoked salmon 

Lamb steak with bacon 

Tenderloin steak Sirloin steak 

Breakfast bacon Ham Pig's feet 

Calf's liver and bacon 

Veal cutlet Honeycomb tripe Mutton chops 

Pork chops. 

Oconomowoc sausage, broiled or frifd 

Stewed lamb kidneys Broiled chicken 

Chipped beef in cream Fried onions Fried bananas 

Browned corned beef hash Fried hominy 

Potatoes — baked, French fried. Lyonnaise 

Hashed brown, Saratoga. Stewed in cream, au Gratin, 

German fried Fried sweet potatoes 



Mashed potatoes Boiled potatoes 

Sweet potato croquettes Spinach with egg 

Asparagus Kohlrabi Parsnip fritters 

Rum punch 

Broiled squab on toast 
Lettuce and tomato 

Steamed apple roll, wine sauce 

Apricot pie Cream glace Lemon custard pie 

Lady cake Assorted cake 

Bisque ice cream 



Fruit Dates 

Assorted nuts 



Raisins 



Figs 



Roquefort and Imperial cheese 
Coffee 



Eggs k la Meyerbeer 
Omelette with run 



Eggs poached 



The following constitutes the working force of a 

Scrambled eggs with oysters large and fashionable summer resort of about 500 

French rolls Corn bread rooms, the nearest base of supplies being 350 miles 



Graham rolls 

Crescents Wheat muffins Toast to order distant 

Wheat and rice cakes 



English breakfast, Ceylon. Oolong and Green tea 
Coffee Chocolate Cocoa 

LUNCH. 

Blue points 

Bouillon with rice 



Welsh rarebit 
Dill pickles Radishes 



Olives 



Fillet of Pompano au Vin Blanc 
Cucumbers Potatoes vendome 

Chicken livers saute k la Financifere 
Macaroni, Milanaise 

Roast ribs of beef 
Roast fricandeau of lamb, tomato sauce 

COLD: Roast beef Ham Mutton Turkey Veal 

Beef tongue Boned pig's feet Lamb's tongue 

Sardines 

Lobster mayonnaise Lettuce 

Mashed potatoes Fried sweet potatoes 
Succotash Boiled potatoes Tomato fritters 

Butter rolls 

Apple pie Pumpkin pie Silver cake 

Black cherries Assorted cake 

Fruit sherbert 

Fruit Figs Dates 



I steward 
I headwaiter 
Kitchen crew of 17, including. 

I chef 

I second cook 

1 assistant second 

2 roast cooks and broilers 

2 fry cooks 
I butcher 
I cold meat man 
I coffee man 
I vegetable cook 
I help's cook 

I fireman and chicken butcher 
I pan washer and fish cleaner 

3 girls 

1 baker 

;cook L rved by them 

2 helpers ) ^ 
2 girls in fruit pantry 

2 storekeepers (one the printer) 

f I to help receive goods 
I to handle ice 
5 yardmen •{ i to keep yard and lawn in order 
I I to handle the garbage 
[ I roustabout 
10 dishwashers, induing, one man who oper- 
ates the machine, 3 men sorters and 6 girls. 
4 waiters in help's hall 
;When the house is running full capacity, the head 



, I bread, pastry and ice cream 

I pastry cook > j c., »u„~ 



Neufchatel. Swiss, Young American & Edam cheese waiter's crew consists of himself, second and third 

Coffee Tea Milk Sweet cider • ^ . j „u * ,;*„-^ 

assistants, and about 100 waiters. 

A SYSTEM OF ORDERING SUPPLIES FROM 
DISTANT MARKETS. 
The house is located on a small island , all supplies 
must of necessity be shipped by steamers from De- 
troit or Chicago; the milk and cream comes by ex- 
press from 90 miles distant, put up in packages much 
Baked roe shad, sauce Venitienne ... ,.,... ,„, , . 

Cucumbers Potatoes Marquise ''ke those used in shipping ice cream. The fresh 



Radishes 



DINNER. 
Blue points 

Salted almonds 



Olives 



Cream of Terrapin, Baltimore 
Consomme Printanifere 

Deviled crabs en coquilles 



Roast tenderloin of beef larded, sauce Bearnaise 
Roast turkey, cranberry sauce 

Croquettes of sweetbreads, sauce Supreme 
Oyster patties i la Romaine 



meats are ordered twice a week from Chicago by 
boat, and the groceries, poultry and vegetables from 
Detroit, four times a week, so that it requires close 
attention to keep a houseful of people, (often as 



14 THE PRACTICAL 

many as eight hundred in all,) well supplied and jet 
not have anything go to waste. The steward makes 
a list of all supplies wanted, with the "leaving time" 
of the boats at the distant markets and "time when 
due to arrive." 

The accompanying illustration will give an idea of 
this list, a glance at which shows the time goods 
must be ordered in order to secure their shipment 
by the regular boats at stated intervals, and the 
time the goods are due to arrive. For instance: 
To insure shipment of the goods on the boat leaving 
Chicago on Tuesday 8 PM. and due at the dock 
Thursday at 9 A. M., the order must be sent from 
the hotel the preceding Sunday. And, as these 
goods are not received by the time that another 
order must be sent for the next regular boat (boat 
service twice a week), the stock on hand must be 
added to the expected goods yet in transit, so that 
the steward can always order intelligently and keep 
an even stock on hand. This must be done to avoid 
the spoiling of goods by overstocking or the incon- 
venience of running out of supplies. 



HOTEL STEWARD, 
bills of fare first class. The following breakfast 
lunch and dinner bills are fair specimens. 
FiREAKFAST. 

FRUIT. 



Oat meal 

Sliced tomatoes 



Cerealine 
Radishes 



FISH. 

Broiled whitefish Fried trout Salt mackerel 

Codfish balls 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Stewed chicken Corned beef hash 

BROILED. 

Sirloin steak Sugar cured ham Pork chops 

Breakfast bacon Mutton chops 

Tenderloin steak plain or with onions 

FRIED. 

Veal cutlets breaded, tomato sauce 
Pig's feet Sausage 

EGGS. 

Poached Scrambled Boiled Shirred Fried 
Omelettes plain, with ham, cheese or jelly 

POTATOES. 

Boiled potatoes Lyonnaise Stewed French fried 

BREAD. 

Hot breakfast rolls Plain bread Dry toast 

Milk toast Corn muffins Buttered toast 

Graham bread Wheat cakes Maple syrup 

Green tea Oolong tea English breakfast tea 








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liOins Beef 


30 


24 










Ribs Beef 


3f) 


40 










Loin Butts 


300 lbs. 


3.^0 lb 










Loins Pork 


40 












Rax Mutton 


20 


.■SO 










Lambs 


6 


4 










Hams 


(iO 












Bacon 


80 












Lard 


13 cans 












Sausage 


50 1 


bs. 


50 1 


bs 

















Olives 



LUNCHEON. 
Puree a la Jackson 

Radishes 



Cucumbers 



Baked whitefish, a 1 Espagnole 
Browned potatoes 

Baked chicken pie, home style 



Baked potatoes 

Mashed potatoes 
Boiled rice 



Stewed tomatoes 
Sweet potatoes 
Wax beans 



Welsh rarebit 

Cracked wheat custard, brandy sauce 
Hot brown bread 

Celery salad Pickled beets Spiced salmon 

Sardines Pickled lamb tongues 

Cold turkey Roast beef Pork and beans 

Sugar cured ham Pork Smoked tongue 

Cardinal punch 

Peach pie Lemon pie 

California peaches in syrup Assorted cake 

Raspberry jam 

Cheese Crackers 

Tea Coffee 

DINNER. 
Clam chowder Consomme with rice 



Sliced tomatoes 



Olives 



Radishes 



At the end of the season it is but a few minutes 
work with the aid of these lists, to ascertain how 
many loins or ribs, or how many pounds of poultry^ 
etc., were used for the whole season. 

This is the most prosperous resort west of the 
Atlantic coast. The proprietor is a thorough hotel 
man and has about him a most efficient corps of 
assistants; the food is of the best quality and the 



Baked lake trout, Creole sauce 
Long Branch potatoes 



Boiled fresh beef, horseradish sauce 

Prime roast beef, browned new potatoes 

Young turkey, giblet and cranberry sauce 
Spring lamb, mint sauce 

Pork and beans 

Minced chicken on toast, Richmond 

Macaroni with cream, au gratin 

Deviled crabs, au garniture 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 15 

Fish salad Pickled beets hand on the day of stock taking — usually once a 

New potatoes in cream Mashed potatoes month. A plain journal answers for this work, unless 

New cabbage stewed Corn fritters ^ jg desirable to keep a continual check on the 

Boiled rice Stewed tomatoes 

stock from day to day, for which purpose there are 

Queen pudding, wine sauce , , . ^, ■ . / . ■ , .. 

Apple pie Cocoanut pie some very complete ones in the market (notably the 

New York ice cream Assorted cake Fulwell stock book) which will enable the steward 

Mixed nuts Raisins 

Iced watermelon to check any part of his stock in a very short time. 

Roquefort and Edam cheese Bent's crackers r^,^ illustration of the Fulwell and other slock books 

Coffee ' 

. . will be given later in these columns.] 

THE HOTEL MONTHLY SYSTEM OF STORE- 
ROOM BOOKKEEPING. 
For a clear and concise illustration of these books 
(receiving, issue and stock). I know of no belter 
way than to reproduce the article on storeroom 
bookkeeping "Hotel Monthly system" which ap- 
peared in the Hotel Monthly of date May 1895, 
(as regards the receiving and issue books) and a 
part of a similar article in the issue of May 1893 (as 
regards the stock book) : [In this latter illustration 



STOREROOM BOOKKEEPING. 

There is no fixed method for storeroom bookkeep- 
ing. Nearly every steward has some idea of his own 
in which he desires this branch of his department 
conducted. When it devolves on him to start a new 
system in some house that is just being opened for 
business, he goes to the stationer and has a set of 
books made to suit his plans, and if the method is 
practical will be the adopted system of that particu. 

lar house. He usually adopts a plan which will iir.. ■' -■ .. j 

an extra book for the wine room is referred to and 

enable him to keep well informed in regard to ex- ... , , i 

^ ° illustrated. J 

pense of his department and make prompt- and -r-i 1 1 . j j 

ft- The books etc., needed: 

accurate reports to the management. However, , ...,» ,■ , ■, 

A receiving bock. (An ordinary two-column wide 

of late \ears, the march of progress in this de- . , ,, ^ 

page journal answers the purpose.) 
partnient has kept pace with the advancement of , . ,,,.,,,, 

An issue book. (A book ruled similar to the one 
modern hotel keeping, and systems are being evolved .,, , , 

illustrated on page 16, the page measuring about 
by well known stewards which are practical and 

14x16 inches.) 
comprehensive and are met with approval by hotel . , ,,,,,. 

A stock on hand book. (An ordinary manilla paper 
men in general. This will have the effect to make .,,.,., 

copying book, with index, answers the purpose.) 
hotel storeroom bookkeeping more uniform. « , , . ,, r . ... 

A hook or spindle for the requisitions. 
The steward is proud to have a well kept set of 

THE RECEIVING AND ISSUE BOOKS, 
books in his storeroom. They show business tact 

All goods received must be accompanied with the 
and are invariablv subject to comment. 

invoice, and the invoices, after being O. K'd. should 
The object of storeroom bookkeeping is to enable 

be copied and itemized into the receiving book. At 
the steward to observe from day to day the receipts 

the close of each day foot up the total value of the 
and disbursements of supplies and whether properly 

goods received. This will illustrate: 
and economically handled, and also to guard against 

May ist, 1895. 
leakages. p. M. SMITH, 

A simple yet comprehensive system which I have 3 gals. Selects, (§$1.25, 

r J 11 . , . . , 20 lbs. Salmon, @ 15c, 

found to meet all requirements, and is extensively 

used, is a set of three books, namely, a receiving ARMOUR & CO., 

book, an issue book and a stock book. 200 lbs. Beef Loin, @ 12c, 

60 lbs. Mutton, @ io}4c ^.^. 
The receiving book is a plain day book or journal " $30.50 

(such as is used in all business houses), in which is CORBIN, MAY & CO., 

entered the quantitv, kind and price of goods as they ^4° '^S- Granulated Sugar, @ 5c, 

10 gals. Vinegar, @ 12c, 
are received. Afterward these entries are compared i doz. Olive Oil, 

with the regular invoices, and the latter approved 

(or returned for correction if necessary) by the ^7-45 

* 

steward and sent to the office to be audited. .,,.. r,** 

At the beginning of the month take an inventory 
The issue book is for entering in the requisitions , , , , , , , 

of the storeroom and enter the total value of the 
as they come from the different departments and , ■ , . , , .,,,.. 

stock on hand in the place provided for it in recapit- 
are filled. , . , , , . , , , , . 

ulation column of the issue book. In this case say 
The stock book is used to record all goods on ,, , , , . . *„ 

the slock on hand inventories $800. 



$3 


■75 


3 


.00 


$24. 


00 


6. 


50 


$7- 


00 


I. 


20 


2 


00 



S6.75 



I6 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD 

Storeroom Issue Book, Hotel Monthly System 



Date, 





KITCHEN 









DINING ROOM 








OFFICE 








BAB 




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2 doz. 


SiuMtbrtad, 


1 


60 


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1 


50 


5yai. 


Buurbon 


9 


SO 


10 lb,. 


Flour 




30 


Mtb,. 


Sugar 


1 




1 bot. 


Ink 




30 


3<U-t. 


Lemon 




60 


3 ti03. 


Egg, 




CO 


iiu. 


Pbache, 


1 


50 


6 


ToUet Paiier 




_</) 


albe. 


Cfieew 




30 


SO lb,. 


Raatt 


7 


50 


1 lb. 


Tm. 




« 






$2 


2« 




fio 


to 




910 


00 






$5 


95 




































































































































































































































































































































LAUNDRY 






























16 lbs. 


Soap 




6i 




























Blueing 




20 
































.81 




































































































INDIVIDUAL ACCTS. 






























1 bbl. 


Flour {Proprietor, 
































family residence ) 


»5 


00 




















































































































HOUSEKEEPER 






























Z 


Brooms 




36 




























Pumice 




25 
































,61 


















BA 


KERY AND PASTRY R 


COM 




























G doz. 


Egg, 


1 


20 


■ 
























LOlbsl 


Butter 


S 


25 










RECAPITILATION 


















$3 


i5 










Kitchen 


10 




























Dinio^ Room 


5 


9S 


























Bakery & Pastry Room 


3 


IS 


























Office 


H 


22 


























Laundry 




8i 




















SERVANTS' UALL 






Housekeeper 




ei 
















12 lbs. 


Sugar 




60 


Servant's Hall 


1 


SO 


















3 lbs. 


Coffee 




HO 


Jliscellaneous 


























$1 


50 




2i 


sv 
























































Bar 


10 


10 


























Individual Accounts 


5 




























Total, 


$39 


97 


























Stock on Hand this a.m. 


aoo 


00 


























Received to-day 


n 


15 




























817 


15 




















MISCELUXEOUS 


^1 


Issues to-day 


39 


97 


























Stock on Hand this f.h$807 


18 






















































































House count 28 






























Cost per capita 87 cts. 

































































































































All requisitions must be signed by the head or the 
acting head of the department from which they come. 
At the close of day these are assorted and entered 
into the issue book, each under its particular head, 
after the manner shown in the accompanying illustra- 
tion. It is an easy matter to foot up the totals of the 
issues to tlio different departments, and enter them 
in the recapitulation column, where the sum total of 
the issues for each day is obtained. 

* 
* * 

With these figures and the house count ii is an 

easy matter to find the cost per capita for the day. 

For instance, by dividing the total amount of the 

issues in dollars and cents by the number of the 



house-count, the cost per capita is obtained (see in 
illustration; $24.57 of the recapitulation divided by 
28, house count, the cost per capita is shown to be 
87 cents. Issues to the bar, or to individual account 
--that is, issues for outside the hotel, as to the 
owner's private residence, etc. — do not figure in the 
per capita, and therefore are separated in the re- 
capitulation). The value of the stock on hand is 
also ascertained from day to day by adding to the 
Slock on hand in the morning the total amount of the 
receipts for the day, and deducting from the figures 
so obtained the amount of the day's issues, when 
the figures show the value of stock that should be 
on hand next morning when the storeroom opens. 
By this system an inventory of the storeroom taken 



THK PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. I7 

at the end of the month should give figures corres- first.Commissary ; second, General Expense and third 
ponding very closely with the stock on hand entry Individual accounts. 



in the issue book at the end of the month. 
THE STOCK ON HAND BOOK. 

Stock taking and keeping track of stock on hand 
is facilitated by two indexed blank books, one for 
the reserve storeroom and the other for the wine 
room. (If no wine room then one book is sufficient.) 
Ordinary copying books of manilla paper, costing 
from 75 cents to Si. 50 each, according to size and 
quality, are satisfactory for this purpose. In these 
books a page is given to each article and the articles 
are indexed so that they can be readily referred to- 

To illustrate: Suppose there are three barrels of 
Bourbon whisky in the wine room. These would 
each have a page and be numbered, say 2,458, 2,459 
and 2,460 respectively. One page would be headed 
"Bourbon 2,458" and under it so many gallons as 
the barrel contains, say 56I.V, and also the price paid 
for it and the date it was received. In using from 
the barrel each separate amount as drawn from it 
is subtracted and debited to the department to which 
it goes, together with date, etc., as shown below: 



Under the head of Commissary are placed Kitchen- 
Dining Room, Bakery and Pastry, Helps Hall and 
Miscellaneous, which latter includes ice, banquets, 
etc. Under General Expense are included Bar, 
Housekeeper, Office and Laundry; and under Indi- 
vidual are such items as are charged to the proprie- 
tors or parties favored and not chargeable to the 
per capita of supplies. These individual account 
issues are, however, charged to the parties from the 
office and the storeroom credited with the amounts. 

The total of the commissary only is taken to ascer- 
tain the per capita cost of supplies, but the grand 
total of all the departments should be taken (as 
shown in the issue book) to ascertain the stock on 
hand. 

HYDE PARK HOTEL, York, Pa. 

May 2, 1895. 
DAILY REPORT OF STOREROOM ISSUES. 



Bar. 



BOURBON, 2,458 
June 9, 1892, 563^ gals. @ $1.90 

Sept 9, 1892, 

Sept. 10, 1892, 



Commissary. 
Kitchen 
Dining Room 
Pastry and Bakery 
Page 246 Helps Hall 

Miscellaneous 



53K 



Kitchen 



52 



Genp:ral Expense. 
Bar 

Housekeeper 
Office 
Laundry 



Articles added to the stock on hand are entered on 

the stock book. For instance: Suppose there are 

4 boxes of P. & G. soap in the reserve storeroom. A 

page of the stock book would show that. Ten other 

boxes of P. & G. soap are received. These would be Stock on hand 

Purchased 
entered on the same page and added to the stock on 

hand, giving a total of 14 boxes on hand. 

These stock on hand books keep the steward and 

the proprietor informed daily of the variety and 

quantity of the stock on hand, and are also invaluable 

for reference when buying supplies. 



Individi'M-. 



Total 



Total 
Less issues as above 



10 






5 
3 

I 


95 
45 
50 


20 


ID 


40 
61 




2 


22 

84 


14 
34 


800 






47 


45 




847 
34 


45 
97 




812 


48 





90 



07 



97 



Bal. stock on hand this day 

Signed, J. T. stewaid. 

THE BANQUET BOOK. 

*** There should also be kept a book to record all 

DAILY REPORT TO THE MANAGEMENT. banquets, luncheons, collations, etc. A long day 

The daily report to the management is made every book or journal will answer for this purpose. On 

morning for the previous day's transactions, and is the left hand page of the folio, may be noted the 

practically a copy of the totals from the "Daily name of the association or party giving the same, 

Issues" book, about like the following illustration, with time, price and the number of covers, also a 

the figures on which are taken from the HOTEL copy of the Menu. In the opposite, or right hand 

Monthly issue book illustrated in the September page, the issues and steward's memoranda. Such a 

number of this publication, except that they are record will prove of great benefit in serving future 

somewhat differently arranged. banquets, and one can tell very nearly how much is 

The sheet is about 4 inches wide by 6 inches long, made on every spread served by the house. The 

The items are divided in three departments, namely; following illustration, which is self explanatory, will 



i8 THE PRACTICAL 

give a fair idea of what I believe a very simple and 
most practical method : 

{See page rg for illustration of banquet book.) 
KEEPING AND ISSUING STORES, 

The storeroom should be in charge of a competent 
and trustworthy man, one who will attend strictly 
to his work and not become familiar with the help. 
He should be punctual in keeping the hours for issu- 
ing the supplies to the different departments. Notice 
of such hours should be posted in a conspicuous 
place in every department, that the various heads 
thereof may be governed thereby. The hours be- 
tween the time for issuing are occupied by the store- 
keeper to attend to his books. He should keep his 
goods nicely arranged, a permanent place for every- 
thing so that not too much time need be taken up in 
finding anything in his absence. 

HOW TO AVOID SHRINKAGE. 

In issuing stores the storekeeper should pay es- 
pecial attention to avoid too great a shrinkage in his 



HOIEL STEWARD. 

stock, which is sure to occur where all perishable 
goods are weighed, measured or counted without 
making allowance for some waste, as in fresh or 
salted meats, milk and cream or fruit. For instance, 
a loin of beef weighs 67 pounds at the time received ; 
it is hung in the refrigerator and after two or three 
days, when taken out and weighed again, it will have 
lost say two pounds, and if one loin is used every day, 
at the end of the month there would be a loss of 60 
pounds. Allow the same average of loss in all meats 
and at the end of the month there will be a shortage 
in stock for which it is hard to account. A similar 
result will be met with in all perishable supplies. 

I have found the safest way is, when issuing, to 
add a fraction of a cent to the cost price, this being 
done in order to make due allowance for the natural 
shrinkage. For milk and cream, charge each de- 
partment its proper proportion from the invoice; 
fruits by the whole or fraction of a package, instead 
of by the dozen. 



A Convenient Pocket Prices Reference Book. 

*A POCKET PRICES REFERENCE BOOK. containing 100 to 150 pages of strong paper, indexed 

An indexed reference memorandum of prices is in proper proportions and ruled as shown in the 

very useful and handy both for the steward and accompanying diagram will suit the purpose. In it 

storekeeper. The former, in going to market, can, the cost of all goods is entered from the regular in- 

by refering to it, readily ascertain what prices were voice book. When the price last paid is the same 

previously paid for certain articles. To the store- as that of a prior purchase no note need be made of 

keeper it comes handy in the extension of values in it, only when there is a change in price, 
the issue or stock books. A book about 4x6 inches 



Allspice 
Apples, Erie G 
Almonds shell 
whole 

Apples, bbl. J. 
" G 



8/19- .15 
10/10-3.00 
9/12- .25 

" - -14 

8/3 -3-50 
" -2.7s 



10/8 
12/9 



A 
12/1 - .27) B 

C 
D 
E 
F 
G 
H 
I 

J_ 
K 

L 

M 



*[I understand that a prominent steward of my acquaintance now has such a book compiled and will 
shortly put same on the market, for the especial use of proprietors, managers, stewards and store- 
keepers.] 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

= BANQUET BOOK = 

THE ARLINGTON HOTEL 



«9 



Banquet Served to .-. .-. 

MONTGOMERY COUNTY 

BAR ASSOCIATION 

December 12, 1895. 

Number of covers 75. 

Price per cover $2 50. 

To be served at 9:30 P. M. 

Music and flowers extra. 

Wine to be charged as follows; 

Sauternes - per quart $2.00 

Claret, Pontet Canet - " " 2.50 
Champagne - - <■ •! ^ qq 



- MENU - 

Bluepoints 
Celery 

Consomme Princesse 
Olives Roasted nuts 

Planked whitefish, parsly butter 
Sliced cucumbers Potatoes Saratoga 

Lamb chops, French peas 
Small patties of chicken 

Punch, Benedectine 

Larded quail with jelly 
Fried hominy 

Lettuce and tomato mayonaise 

Tutti-frutti ice cream 

Hothouse strawberries 

Assorted cake 

Roquefort 
Black coffee 



ISSUES. 

400 Bluepoints, 
7 doz. celery 

1 qt. olives 

2 lbs. shelled almonds 
20 lbs. whitefish 

}.> pk. potatoes 

2 doz. cucumbers 
48 lbs. rax lamb 
20 lbs. chicken 
75 patties 
6^ doz. quail 

I case lettuce 
3^ crate tomatoes 

I qt. oil - - - 

X doz. eggs 

1 pt. vinegar 
3^ gal. cream 

2 lbs. jelly 

2 lbs. hominy - 
2 lbs. cooking butter 
4 lbs. salt pork 
12 cans peas 
2 lbs. flour 

1 pt. sherry 

4 cans mushrooms 
2}4 gal- punch 
23^ gal. ice cream 

15 qts. strawberries 

}4 lb. cheese 

2 lbs. crackers 
Cake 

I lb. coffee 

Total issues 
10 w^aiters. $r.oo each 
Extra cook, i day 



75 covers a $2 50 

Less issues and expense as above 



75c. 
20c. 

30c. 

IOC 

20C. 
ISC. 

I2C. 

15c per doz. 

$1.50 



$i 00 

I 40 

20 

60 



40 
7 20 
3 40 

98 
9 75 

75 

1 50 
50 
07 
02 
40 
28 
04 
26 
48 

2 40 
06 

13 

• 60 

I 20 

I 95 

7 50 

20 

24 
I 20 

33 



$48 


14 


10 


00 


3 


00 


$ 61 


14 


$187 


50 


61 


14 



$126 34 

* * 

STEWARD'S MEMORANDA. 

The spread was satisfactorily served ; all guests 
pleased. 

Waiter James Brown broke two bouillon cups. 
Waiter H. Samson is too slow and lacks training. 
Balance, all O. K. 



WINE SERVED. 



8 quarts Sauterne 
12 " Pontet Canet 
18 " Champagne 



Mendelsohn Quintette $15 00 
Flowers - - 20 00 



S 16 CO 

30 00 
72 00 

8ii8 00 



Time to serve: one hour and twenty minutes. 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 



Requisition Blanks. 

These Storeroom Requisition Blanks are in use in 
a first class hotel, and are printed liere to give a 
general idea of a form which, with slight alterations 
to meet particular demands, will be found satis- 
factory. The size of sheets can be made to suit the 
convenience of the printer, It is well to distinguish 
the different blanks by having the paper for each of 
a different color. 



NORTHERN HOTEL. 



STORE ROOM Deliver to Kitchen: 



Wanted 



NORTHERN HOTEL. 



MARKET ROOM Deliver to Kitchen: 



Wanted 



B'f, sh'trns 
'■ ribs 
" liver 
" kidney 
" corned 
" ox tails 
" skins 
" tongues 
M"t'n racks 
saddles 
lees 
loins 
Lamb, racks 
kidneys 
fries 
pkd tng 
Veai.h'd'q'tr 
foreq't'r 
Calf's head 
' brains 

feet 
' liver 
Pork, loins 
t'nd'rlns 
sausage 
Pig's feet 
Sweetbreads 
Tripe 
Hams 
Bacon 
Fowls 
Lard 



POULTRY & 
GAME 

Eggs 

E'glish snipe 
Geese 
Grouse 
Partridge 
Plover 
Quail 
Duck, red h'd 

cvas b'k 

mallard 

teal 

tame 
Riceblrds 
Reedblrds 
Squabs, tame 
wild 
Turkeys 
Woodcock 
Spng chick'n 
Fowls 



FISH AND 

SHELL F'SH 

Codfish 

salt 

Blueflsh 

Blackfish 

Halibut 

Haddock 

Mack'r'lfrsh 
salt 

Smelts 

Shad 

Bass, striped 
sea 
black 
lake 

Whiteflsh 

Salmon 

smoked 

Sheep's head 

Flounders 



Wanted 



Pompano 

Weakflsh 

KIngflsh 

Trout, lake 
brook 

Lobster 

Crabs, soft 

oyster 

H'r'ng kip'rd 
" Holland 
" marinirt 

Shrimps 

Crawfish 

Frog's legs 

Scallops 

Help's fish 

Terrapin 

Green turtle 

Red snapper 

Perch 

Pickerel 

Pike 

Turbot 

Soles 

Raie or skate 

Oysters 

L'tlfn'kclms 

Anchovies 
ardines 
' Russian 
'• boneless 
" domestic 

Caviare 

Salt sard'len 



V'G'TBLES 

Apples 

Asparagus 

Beets 

Brussels spts 

Cabbage 

Carrots 

Cauliflower 

Celery 

Chicory 

Chives 

Cranberries 

Cucumbers 

Egg plant 

Escarole 

Green corn 

Green peas 

Green pep'rs 

Horse r'dish 

Kale 

Ijceks 

Lettuce 

Lima beans 

Mint 

Onions 

Oyster plant 

Parsnips 

Parsley 

Potatoes 

sweet 
Radishes 
Romaine 
Sorrel 
Spinach 

tring beans 
Squash 
Tomatoes 
Turnips 
Fresh 

mushrooms 
Watercress 



.189 



CANNED 

GOODS 
Artichokes 
Asparagus 
American 

" French 
Beans, Lima 
String 
" Wax 
Brussels spts 
Caviare 
Corn 
Lobster 
Mushrooms 
Peaches 
Pears 
Peas, French 

" American 
Pine apples 
Sardines 
Shrimps 
Sorrel 
Succotash 
Truffles 

peelings 



Apples 
.\nchovies 
Allspice 
Beans, white 
Barley 
Brooms 
Brushes 
Cassia, whole 

' ground 
Cloves. "hole 

' ground 
Corn starch 
Curry, pwdrd 
Capers 
Citron 
Chocolate 
Cheese 
Cracker dust 
Currants 
Cr'ked wheat 
Clams 
Flour 
Farina 
Ginger 
Gelatine 



Wanted 



Herbs, 

■■ Sage.whle 

'• gr'nd 

" Thyme 

whole 
'■ " gr'nd 
" Bay le'ves 

Hominy 

Jelly 

Lemons 

Port wine 

Sherry 

Whiskey 

Brandy 

Rum 

Alcohol 

Claret 

Mustard 

Mace, whole 
ground 

Macaroni 

Meal, corn 
' oat 

N'tm'gs.whle 

Olive oil 

Olives 

Pails 

Pepper, gr'd 
" whole 
" white 
" cayenne 

Pea meal 

Pickles 

Raisins 

Rice 

Rice flour 

Sugar. 

powdered 
gr'nul't'd 
brown 

Salt 

Sago 

Soap 

Saltpetre 

Twine 

Tapioca 

Tomatoes 

Vermicelli 

Vinegar 

Worcester- 
shire sauce 

Sapolio 

Italian paste 



NORTHERN HOTEL. 



STOREROOM Deliver to Fruit Pantry 



Wanted 



lbs B'st coffe 
" Help 
" Oolong tea 
" Green " 
" Eng.bre'k 
fast tea 
" Help tea 
•' Chocolate 
" T'blebut'r 
" Help " 
" Almonds 
" Filberts 
■' Pecans 
" Walnuts 
" Cut sugar 
■' Pow'd •' 
" Gran '• 
' Salt 
■' Pepper 
" Mustard 
•' Water 

crackers 
" Soda 
" Oyster " 
" Whitening 
" Creamery 

cheese 
" Roqueft 

cheese 
" Swiss 
•' Edam 
" Brie 
" Camenb'rt 



Wanted 



Doz. eggs 
Current jelly 
cans Apric'ts 
Cherries 
Peaches 
Pears 
Pineapple 
Plums 
Quinces 
Sardines 
Salmon 
box Lemons 
Raisins 
Toothp'ks 
Maf^hes 
bot. Worces. 
sauce 
" Half'd •■ 
" anch'vi '' 
" tobsco ■■ 
■• cliowchow 
" Gherkins 
•' M'x'dp'k's 
•• Olive oil 
BHth bricks 
Bars soap 
gals. Olives 
■ Vi'iegar 
• M'plesy'p 
" R'ckc'ndy 
syrup 
" Cream 
" Milk 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

A Steward's Market List of Perishable Foods. 

MARKET LIST, 189.... 



3X. 



On Hand 



Veal 



Rib K"8t Beef 
Help •• 
Loin 

Ten'rloin " 
Kounds •' 
Strips 
Koils 
Shanks 
PlateC'n'd" 
Hump " •' 
Tongues, 
Fresh Beef 
" Pkl'd " 
Ox Tails •• 
Liver " 

Sw'tbr'ds " 
Suet 

Loins Mutton 
LCBB 
Kax 
Whole 
Kidney 
Lamb 
Whole 
Half 
Lee 

Foreqt'r " 
Loin 

Sw'tbr'ds " 
Liver 

Loin Pork 
Larding 
Ten'rloin " 
Salt 

Young Pig 
Pork Sausage 
Lyon 
Vienna " 
Fresh Tripe 
Pickled Tripe 
Fr'sh Pig's Ft 
Pkld.Pigs Ft 
Pig's .Jowl 
Lamb's Tong. 
Lamb's Fries 
Pig's Tongue 
Calf's Head 
No. 1 Hams 
No. 2 Hams 
No 1 Racon 
No 2 Bacon 
No. 1 Lard 
No. 2 Lard 



Wantea 



Lake Trout 

Brook Trout 

WhiteHsh 

Pike 

Pickerel 

I'eroh 

Pan Ush 

UliKk bass 

Sturgeon 

Salmon 

Smelts 

Halibut 

Kedsnapper 

Fresh Cod 

Salt 

Haddock 

PompanoJ 

BlueUsh 

Sea Bass 

Flounders 

Fin an Had'e 

F'h Mackerel 

Spanish ". 

Salt 



Buck Shad 

Uoe 

Sliad Uoe 

Soles 

Live Lobster 

Boiled •' 

Crabs 

Shrimps 

Scallops 

Turtle 

Terrapin 

Crawfish 

Frog Legs 

Quohaug Clm 

LittleNeck " 

Pea Nut 



Shell Oysters 
Count 
Select 
Standard " 



On Hand 



Wanted 



On Hand 



Tom Turkey 
Hen Turkey 
Hens 
Cocks 

Iloast Chick's 
Broiling " 
(ieese 
Ducks 
I'igeons 
Squabs 
Pheasant 
Prairie Chic. 
Grouse 
Doe Birds 
Kice Birds 
Plover 
Snipe 
Quail 

Wild Geese 
Brant 

Mallard D'ks 
Teal Ducks 
Canvas Back 
Ducks 
Antelope 



Old Potatoes 
New '■ 
Sweet " 
White T'nips 
Ruta-baga 
Squash 
Cabbage 
Carrots 
Parsnips 
Old Onions 
loung 
Garlic 
Sharlots 
Chives 
I>eeks 
String Beans 
Wax 

Navy " 
Lima 

Green Corn 
Cireen Peas 
Caulillower 
Asparagus 
Egg Plant 
Oyster Plant 
Spinach 
New Beets 
Beet Greens 



Wanted 



On Hand Wanted 



Dandelions 
Brussel Spr'ts 
Tomatoes 
Lettuce 
Chicory 
Radishes 
Mushrooms 
Parsley 
Sorrel 
Chevrll 
Mint 

Tarragon 
('elery 

Celery Roots 
Hor>e Radish 
(i rated 
Horse Radish 
Root 
Green Peppei 
Red Pepper 
Water Cress 
|{liubarb 
Oranges 
Lemons 
Bananas 
Table Apples 
Cooking " 
Grapes 



Creamerv 

Butter 
Dairy 
Cooking " 
Eggs 
Amer Cheese 
Brie 

Cam'bert " 
Edam 

Gorg'zola" 
Paragon " 
Neufcha'l" 
Parmesan" 
Roquefort" 
Stilton 
Swiss ■' 

Sweet -Milk 
Skimmed 
Butter 
Cream 
reast 



Perishables "On Hand" and "Wanted." 

The above list of perisliable foods appeared in the 
Hotel Monthly of September 1893, as a contribu- 
tion from Mr. G. DeM. Sherman, then steward of 
the Virginia Hotel, Chicago, and now manager of 
The Cairo at Washington, D. C, who compiled it 
with the idea of its being a help to him in marketing, 
which it has proved to be. 

Thi^ sheet upon which it is printed for his use is 
iix 17 inches in size, and the vertical columns are 
uniform % of an inch in width. 

The list is arranged so that every article can be 
readily located. First comes the beef meats, then 
the mutton, veal, pork and fancy meats. The second 
column is devoted to fish, beginning with the fresh, 
then the salt water and ending with the shell fish. 



The third column begins with poultry, which is fol 
lowed by game. Next comes the vegetables — the 
dry first, then the green, continuing with herbs and 
ending with fruits. The list ends with dairy foods. 

The columns headed "On Hand" and "Wanted" 
are of especial value, particularly the "Wanted" 
column. In some hotels which do a moderate busi- 
ness the "On Hand" column need not be filled in 
with the entire stock; but the "Wanted" column, if 
properly attended to, will keep many a bill of fare 
from being "scratched," which in itself is a great 
deal, for a scratched bill of fare is an abomination. 

In a house that does a big business it will be found 
of great advantage to have the "On Hand" column 
filled in, and will more than repay the trouble it 
takes in the convenience it affords. 



aa THE PRACTICAL HOIKL STEWARD. 

T^iTtrirtrr perishable goods, but, if perishable, should consider 

J O" well before buying. The goods may be all right if 

On the methods employed in buying depends the used at once, but if it is necessary to carry them for 

welfare of the hotel to a great extent. To go buy- several days, and in the meantime become unfit for 

ing with a well filled purse, or for a laige and pros- use, the bargain becomes a total loss. Among the 

parous concern with good credit, who settle their staple articles which can not be found at bargains 

bills promptly, and where the cost need not be taken are coffee and flour. When a house has a blend of 

into consideration, it is an easy task. Anybody can coffee which pleases, it should be continued right 

buy for such a house. But where a house depends along; and so with flour: to insure good bread there 

on the close and economical buying of the steward, should be kept a brand that runs even the year 

it is not so easy, and it requires a man who has a around. 

knowledge of the qualities of different brands of The standard lines of canned goods can often be 

goods as well as of the grades of meats, poultry, bought cheap — lower than the market is likely to be. 

game, fish, and, in fact, everything that is needed It is well in such a case to buy. 

in a hotel. There should be a regular day every week for 

When the merchant buys he figures if his class of buying groceries and at no time should the steward 

trade can afford to pay the price he will be required buy goods to last longer than one month, no matter 

to charge to make a living profit, and if he can dis- how cheap, especially where the market is near at 

pose of said goods before they prove a loss by hand. 

reason of long exposure, or, if perishable, are spoiled In buying perishable goods such as fresh meats, 

from too much handling. poultry, fish, oysters, game, vegetables, fruit and 

To buy for a hotel is different in some ways, dairy products, he should himself make all selections 

Everything the steward buys is for current use and at the time of purchase, and should be able to judge 

It is not necessary to figure on a direct profitable for himself whether the butter is just what he needs, 

return, but to procure all articles at a justifiable the fish is really fresh, or the poultry is young, and, 

price, and at the same time satisfy and please the above all, if the beef is just the qualiiy he wants, 

guests. The steward should be able to calculate how much 

In preparing to go to market the question is, what he needs for his guests without having a lot left over 

to buy, how much is needed and how long will the that can not be put to good use. A great many 

goods keep; also the kind of goods, if for a $2.00 a things, if not all used at one meal, can be carried 

day house or for a $3.00 to $5.00 a day house ; if for until, by adding a little more, will make another 

a first class restaurant, or fashionable club, as every meal. But there are many things it will not do to 

one of the above requires goods of a different buy more than enough for a day at the time, such as 

quality. berries in season, etc. 

When a house engages a man to buy who is not The steward should also know how to take care 
possessed of the required knowledge it will pay of the supplies which he buys, meats, of course, re- 
school money, which in some instances amounts to quiring most attention, 
quite a sum until he has learned. Where there is a good ice box or system of refrig- 

A steward in buying should always ask the price eralion, and proper attention given, there is practic- 

of the goods wanted before taking them, no matter ally no loss. 

how regular he gets the same article, or reliable the 

TO MARKET 

firm. Prices change on all goods; they may have 1 *-' 1 rv 

advanced to a figure too high, in which case it would The steward should not use tobacco or strong 

require the selection of another brand. A good firm drink before going to market, as such indulgence 

appreciates the strict business methods in a buyer easily affects the fine sense of taste necessary. I 

and will take better care of his orders than if he will endeavor to illustrate a trip to the market for 

comes in, reads off his list of articles wanted in a a $3.00 per day hotel, with a housecount of 200, 

careless way, with an "I-don't-ask-prices : my-house- starting at the head of the list : 

can-pay-for-them," air. The steward should buy OYSTERS IN SHELL— A very desirable dish in 

just like the merchant, who first figures on the prob' season and about four-fifths of the guests will call 

able profit. The steward on his tour of marketing for them. Allowing five to the Drder makes eight 

often meets with what are called bargains, which he hundred. Where they are used more than once a 

should take advantage of if they are staple and non- week it is cheapest to buy them by the barrel ; jthey 



Sirloin, 




17 po 


unt 


Is, 32 


Tenderl 


loin. 


5 




16 


Hip 




10 




24 


Fat 




8 


■' 




Flank 




4 


" 




Bone 




14 


" 





THE PRACriCAL HOTEL STEWARD. 23 

will keep for several days in a cool place with is served ; that will require 140 steaks. In order to 

cracked ice over them. Oysters in bulk for stewing, find how many loins are needed I will give my ex- 

if not frequently served, will take about three gallons perience of cutting two loins different in size and 

solid measure per meal; when served daily for quality. The first loin weighs 68 pounds, first class, 

breakfast, half that quantity is sufficient. Large well fed young steer ; 
oysters for frying, when used every daw one and 
one-half gallons; but when served twice a week 
about three gallons are required. Oysters to be in 
good condition should not float nor have a strong 
odor, and should be kept in a cool place and pieces 
of ice placed in the tub. They spoil vory quickly 

in warm air. Hip for help 10 

CLAMS — Little necks: not so many are used as Total 68 72 steaks 

of oysters, only about half the guests will call for Loin cost 16 cents per pound gives a total of $10.88. 

them. They sell at about the same price as shell Deduct from this $1.98, the highest value of parts 

oysters and are kept the same way. For Fri- not used as steaks, and you have $8.90, net value of 

day's dinner for chowder it will require about 350 seventy-two steaks, which makes each steak worth 

large clams. about 12.3 cents. 

FISH— Where fish is served at every meai iiie The second loin weighed only 54 pounds and cost 

ratio per guest is not over one-sixth of a pound for ig cents per pound: 

each. This applies to the varieties whicli are to be Sirloin. 8 pounds, 24 steaks 

had the year around, such as whitefish. bluefish. Tenderloin 3^, " 12 

trout, Spanish mackerel, halibut, etc. Ratio gross Hip jj •• 13 

weight will run almost double, or a trifle over one- Flank 10 

quarter pound on such fish as red snapper, bass and Bones 10 

pike, on account of the increased waste in cleaning Paj loi^ " 
them, mainly large heads. The shad being a very 
desirable fish when it first comes in the market the 



Total 54 49 



.,, , .J * Cost of loin S4 pounds at 16 cents per pound was 

ratio will run about one-quarter pound per guest. -^^ ' 

- , ^ 1 J $8.64. Deduct 02 cents, value of waste cuts, leaves 

I place my hsh order: ■>■ -t y 

,f f 1 •. c I j^ $7 72, the cost of 49 steaks or ■ s.^ cents each. The 

If for whitefish, 33 pounds i-/ / ■ -^^ 

If for bluefish, 33 pounds fi"' 'o'" '''^^ '^'"'^'^ ^"^ "^^d in Chicago; the latter 

If for red snapper, 50 pounds in the South and was of inferior quality compared 

If for shad, 12 single or 48 pounds with the former. It will require two loins of well 

If for smelts, 15 pounds fed young steer. 

If for pan fish, 8 pounds. RIBS— Next 1 need ribs ; how many :- I will see. A 

In selecting fish : To tell if fresh the gills should good carver can cut from 55 to 65 cuts out of a rib of 

have a natural red color, the eyes clear, and, by 35 pounds. About 70 per cent of the guests call for 

pressing the finger beind the small upper fin nearest roast beef, and since the chef has no cold beef for 

the tail, the fish should feel firm; but if the finger tomorrows lunch, I will take 4 ribs. Tomorrow I 

strikes the back bone the fish is old. After the fish can take one less. The difference between a steer 

is delivered at the hotel it should be cleaned, then rib and that of a cow is, the bones of the former are 

ice sliould be broken fine, place in layers the fish smaller, not so curved, and carry thicker meat on 

and ice alternately, but the fish should not be cut or the back. 

split before it is to be used, as by cutting fish and MUTTON— When mutton is young and reasonably 

then icing, the best of the fish, its flavor, is lost. fat is is always a desirable dish, especially as chops. 

FRESH MEATS— Next on the list are the fresh It will require about half pound to the guest, or 

meats. Seldom are they bought from day to day. fourteen racks of seven pounds each, or 98 

The steward usually buys ahead for several days, pounds and you get ten chops to each rack. Sliort 

but this time we will buy enough for one day only. racks are cut about one inch below the lower rib. 

LOINS OF BEEF— This house serving no supper The neck is cut away at the other end and the 

it will be required for breakfast only. About 70 per short or breast ribs are cut away. In serving lamb 

cent, of the guests eat steak, where a good qualily chops (of which the per cent, required for each guest 



24 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

is far greater than mutton) I have found that it is bies that of a pheasant. They are usually served 
more profitable to buy the whole front quarters, boiled. They are easily told by a scar in front ol 
For instance, if it takes twenty racks of lamb at five the leg and near the back. For boiling I buy in tne 
pounds each— one hundred pounds, we will say, at same ratio as for chicken. 

thirteen cents per pound, would be a cost of $13.00. GAME— The season being very short on some va- 
Now take twenty fore-quarters weighing eight pounds rieties, it is served as often as the house can afford 
each, would be a total of 160 pounds at eight cents while the season lasts. 

per pound, $12.80. After trimming there are sixty MALLARD DUCKS, when properly cooked, are 
pounds of breast and neck worth three cents per well liked by the average guest. There are about 
pound, or $1.80. Deduct this from the first cost and six small orders in one duck, and as nearly every 
the twenty racks will cost just $11.00, a gain of $2.00. guest calls for mallard, I buy three dozen. 
There is no profit in buying heavy mutton this way. TEAL being very small, only two orders to each 
Where either mutton or lamb chops are served every duck, I buy eight dozen. 

morning the quantity used will be much less. QUAIL— About ninety per cent, of the guests will 

In buying lamb for roasting it requires about half call for them; also snipe and plovers. It requires 
a pound to the guest; fresh pork three-eighths pound; fifteen dozen to make a meal of any of the above, 
fresh pork sausage, for breakfast, about twenty allowing one to an order. 

pounds. PARTRIDGES — In first class houses partridges 

I now go to the poultry dealer. F irst on the list are are served a half to an order, usually , but in a $3.00 
TURKEYS; it will take about 150 pounds, or three- per day house I make four orders, and in that way 
quarter pound for each guest, of undrawn well fat- four dozens will serve a dinner. 

tened young turkeys for a dinner. They should be PRAIRIE CHICKEN will cut in six orders, so 
even in size and weigh about fifteen to sixteen three dozen will do of them, 
pounds each. OTHER GAME such as venison, elk, antelope and 

CHICKENS, old, when used for pie, will require bear, one saddle is enough for a dinner, 
about eighty-five pounds; when for boiling, about * * * 

one-hundred pounds. Young chickens for roasting, BUTTER can not be bought without trying. The 
about 150 pounds. To tell when a chicken is young, color should be even, the flavor sweet, and contain 
press on the point of the breast bone; if it gives it 3^°"^ one ounce of salt to the pound. Butter should 
easily proves that it is not matured, but if firm and be kept in a separate box, away from fruits or 
sharp it is an old chicken cooked foods of any kind, as it easily absorbs foreign 

DUCKS AND GEESE-It requires the same quan- o^ors and becomes tainted, 
tity as turkeys for roasting. A sure way to tell when VEGETABLES (excepting asparagus) will keep 
a duck or goose is young, is to press the wind-pipe ^^^ several days and can therefore be bought in 
between thumb and finger; if it crushes with ordi- quantities as bargains present themselves. Aspara- 
nary effort they are young; the old ones will not gus being the most desirable vegetable in the market, 
Qj-ygj^ when in season, more than enough for one or two 

OLD PIGEONS for pie will require about seven "leals should not be bought, as they will not keep. 
jQ2en APPLES are usually packed in barrels. In buying 

SQUAB for broiling are served whole and nearly them I always have them opened, one. and sometimes 
every guest orders it. It is a most expensive dish, both ends; then inspect to the depth of several 

SPRING CHICKENS for broiling should weigh layers before taking them. 
about eighteen pounds to the dozen and serve half ORANGES are the most desirable fruit that we 
a chicken for an order. As nearly every guest is have for the table ; they are healthful and the aver- 
sure to order spring chicken, about eight dozen will age guest prefers them to any other fruit, and every 
be required. It is safest to buy them by weight as good house of any standing should have them for 
it insures a more even size. breakfast as long as they are to be had at a reason- 

CAPONS, or gelded cocks, are among the most able price. Florida oranges are the best in the 
desirable of domestic fowl in the market. The fact American market, but Mexico and California also 
of their being altered when about two months old produce large quantities of the fruit of fairly good 
they are easily fattened and grow quite large; their quality. Oranges two hundred to the box are just 
flesh is of a most delicate flavor, and the breast, the right size for an American plan hotel. It requires 
when roasted and nicely carved, very much resem- about one and a half boxes for a breakfast. 



THF-: PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 25 

SMALL FRUITS— The berry season is always in the South require large quantities of fresh fruits 

iooked forward to with great delight by the hotel and vegetables, but less meats. My approximations 

guest, and the steward takes pride in serving them apply only to centrally located houses catering to 

as early as possible; but as there is nothing on the transient patronage, rate from S2.00 to $3.50 per day, 

bill of fare which they take the place of, it also and where a condensed bill of fare is in use. 

means an increase in storeroom expenditures, until A steward, no matter how well he understands his 

they are plentiful, when they are served daily in business, must first learn the wants of the guests of 

different styles, they then take the place of other the house for which he is to buy, before he can do 

fruit. The first to reach the market are from the so intelligently; mathematical calculations are of 

South, and of poor quality. There are about five little use without practical knowledge of the require- 

orders to every quart; it will take about thirty-six ments of the table in the particular locality in which 

quarts. he buys. 

GROCERIES are usually bought in quantities to * * 

last from two weeks to a month and selections are l„. cities there are many establishments who deal in 

made by samples, mainly. A poor observer can g^oods needed in hotels and are in competition for patro- 

spend more money than needed : for example I want : nage. This if the means of fair prices on certain 

CANNED PEAS, paid last $1.35 per doz. The commodities. 

salesman shows a sample very good for the above // is a true saying that "competition is the life of 

figure, but, he says, "I have a lot in for ten cents trade.' This is especially so -with regard to dealers in 

per dozen less which are fully equal to this sample." perishable goods. The steivard or bnyer bearing this in 

He brings a sample, which, upon opening, I find as mind can. by close watching, often buy very cheaply. It 

good, and it suits me first rate. By taking twenty should be one of his chief aims to keep posted on condition 

cases I gain S4. 00, which, if I had given the order of the market. But I do not believe it a good idea to keep 

without further inquiry, would not have been made; the patronage too much divided and uncertain. To select 

and so with everything I buy. afetv reliable firms who may depend on selling you a cer- 

TEA requires the most attention as the dealer tain amount of goods is commendable, as they will find 
must be relied on to a great extent. There are it to their interest to take good care of you. and will give 
three varieties of tea which are sufficient for any any advantage that may offer both in prices and quality. 
American plan house to carry; they are Oolong^ If you are nobodys custotner they will all try to take ad- 
English Breakfast SiuA Young Hyson. With these in vantage of you, and if the particular goods you watit are 
Stock many different blends can be made by mixing scarce, will not care to sell you at all, unless for exorbi- 
different proportions and the guest suited. tant prices, as they prefer to keep them for their regular 

In buying teas I have samples drawn of the kind patrons. The fact that a frm is larger or wealthier than 

wanted. Plenty of time should be taken in passing another is no evidence that they handle the best goods for 

upon the qualities. Five or six dollars is easily the lowest prices; nor is it any reason why there should 

saved and at the same time have a tea that is just be discrimination in their favor : but the man zi'ho tells 

what is wanted. you in plain language the best he can do and then sticks 

COFFEE — The principal element of success in to his promise is the right party to patronize. Lookout 

making coffee is good material to make it with, for the man loho wants to be too nice to you: he may 

Coffe for breakfast should be stronger than for cause you to pay for all of his polite honors and smiles. 

lunch and dinner, for the reason that every coffee Where the buying must be done by mail orders it is 

drinker is a connoisseur at breakfast. I find a blend far more difficult to attain desired results. You arc 

of three-quarter Old Government Java and one- entirely dependent en the dealer; he can send what he 

quarter Mocha will make a very satisfactory coffee sees 7nust be first disposed of, and occasionally one gets 

for the average hotel. When a blend is found which goods from some {otherwise) reliable firms that would 

is satisfactory to the house it should be continued, hardly be looked at where a choice can be had. Here, 

Frequent changes are rot commendable. again, it is most necessary to select a reliable house who 

* * * have a good business standing. Write and tell them 

The ratio which I have applied in my illustrations 7C'hat class of goods you need, and then, if what is sent is 

in buying is not intended for houses of all grades not up to the required standard, tiotify them that thegoods 

and localities; for instance: hotels by the sea shore are held subject to their order. They will soon find thai 

and northern lake resorts use a great deal of fish, they must send what is desired or lose your patronage. 
where it is just fresh out of the water; and hotels Last, but ?tot least, buy from no one who is ready to 



»6 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

offer personal tnducements, and don't let a fnan sell you of soda. Place the meat or fowl in this for several 

g-Qods that you have no need of. Buy just what you want hours, then wash well, and, after drying thoroughly 

and no more. with a clean cloth, it will be perfectly sweet, but 

I have foand it a good custom to talk'matters over with should be used immediately, or soon as possible 

the chef before ordering or going to the market. For thereafter. 

the steward and chef to act in conjunction in all such There is now an article in the market called "pre- 

matters saves the house tnany a dollar. servaline," by using a small quantity of which will 

PRESERVATION OF MEATS. preserve meat and even restore to a fresh appear- 

A refrigerator in which an equable temperature ^^^e. By sprinkling a very little of this preparation 

of from 36 to 40 degrees can be maintained will keep o^*^^ ^ ^''^J' °f sweetbreads for instance, and cover 

meats for over three weeks. I found in taking a trip ^^'^h fine ice they will remain fresh for two weeks, 

through the principal packing houses of Chicago, CORNED BEEF-To make corned beef (sweet 

that in the large chill rooms where all fresh killed Pickle): Make a salt brine, strong enough to carry 

cattle, sheep and hogs are lung for cooling, the a potato; then add a quarter pound saltpetre and 

temperature ranged from 32 to 40 degrees. These three pounds sugar to two-hundred pounds beef; 

rooms (which it is worth any hotel mans time to 'h^n place the beef in this and leave thirty days 

see) cover acres of floor space, and hundreds of "^^ore using. 

dressed cattle hang in rows so exact that the sight DRY, SALT OR SMOKED BEEF. -Place in layers 

is beautiful to behold. The cooling is done by coils '" ^ square tank or vat using coarse salt only. After 

of pipe placed side by side about fourteen feet over- 'saving the meat in the salt for thirty days take out 

head and extending the entire length and width of and place in fresh water to draw for twelve hours; 

the ceiling. These are regulated by vents by which take the beef, wipe with a cloth, then hang up to dry 

the cold blast can be increased or diminished at and smoke. 

will. The meat dealer goes into these rooms and H.\MS:-The same process as corned beef is 

makes his selections and then has the privilege to employed, but they should remain in the brine for 

let his beef purchase hang there until sufficiently six weeks to be well cured, then wash in fresh water, 

aged, which is not less than ten days and sometimes ^^'P^ ^'^h a cloth, hang up to dry and smoke, 

as long as three weeks. The meat when taken from BACON requires about half the time of hams, 

this storage appears as fresh as if just killed. PRESERVATION OF DRESSED GAME. 

I believe where small refrigerators are built, using Take a flat square tin pan not over two inches 

the above plan, the best results are met with. deep; lay the birds or other game, flat, packing close 

BEEF should always hang and be kept free from side by side until the pan is full; then cover with 

ice. another pan a size larger that fits closely when in- 

POULTRY should also hang and be kept as dry verted; set in a box; then bury in fine broken ice 

as possible. to a depth of about three inches, and scatter a little 

RESTORATIVE — When a piece of meat or a fowl salt over the ice. In this way game will keep a long 

becomes wet or sticky from being kept in too warm time in perfectly fresh condition, but it should be 

a place, make a tub of cold water in which dissolve used immediately after exposure. Game should 

about half once each of saltpetre and bi-carbonate never touch the ice, always keep dry. 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 27 

BILLS OF FARE press not undertaken the task of reformation. Even 

now one can plainly see where papers treating on 

The arrangement of bills of fare is a most import- ,. ,. . . , , 

this subject are not read in some of the country 
ant part of the steward's duties, and in the under- 

districts, 
taking of this work ho should be possessed of good 

taste as well as a knowledge of different kind» of STEWARD AND CHEF WORK TOGETHER. 

dishes, so that he may be enabled to arrange them In making bills of fare the steward and chef should 

in the order in which they ought to be eaten, and at vvork together; it can be done with better advan- 

the same time give them an artistic appearance. tage to the house than is possible where the steward 

The bills of fare of a hotel are often sent away makes the whole bill and not consult any one. The 

by the guests to (heir friends, as well as to guests soups and entrees belong to the chef; he always has 

and landlords of other houses in different parts of something in his ice box left over which he can use 

the country. The traveling public is interested in best according to his own ideas, while if the steward 

them for the reason that they may have occasion to tries to dictate to him what he (the chef) should 

stop at the house where the bill is from and begin to make out of the articles the chef may have on hand, 

judge the house by what it offers the guest to eat. the same pains will not be taken as if he were per- 

The hotelman studies the bill from a business stand- mitted to follow his idea. 

point; he criticises the ability of the steward, and IMPORTANT CONSIDERATIONS IN BILL OF 

he looks for new ideas, which if he considers good, FARE MAKING. 

would try to emulate. The principal considerations in arranging bills of 

THE BILL OF FARE REFLECTS THE HOUSE, fare are; first, what class of house; second, the 

Bills of fare aie subject to much comment and are, class of patronage to be catered to, whether trans- 

in many instances, considered in the light of a lent or family ; and, third, where located. 

reflector of the manner in which the house is con- RATE PATRONAGE I OCALITY 

ducted. They certainly do reflect the stewarding j^ .^ necessary to consider the class house because 

01 the same. U jg ^^ ^f pgggon to use the same kind of bill for a 

Well arranged bills of fare come only from a house ^^^ ^ ^^^ ,,^^^1 ^^ ^,^^j ^^^^ -^ ^ ^^^^^ ^^^^ charges 

where the back part is harmoniously conducted. $5.00 a day for accommodation. It would be ruinous 

To serve a well selected and arranged bill of fare ^^ ^j^^ cheaper house. 

with required changes every day is essential, and g^. ,,^,3^^ ^^ patronage" I mean, whether they are 

can be done in the cheaper houses just as well as ^j ^^^^ transient, such as professional traveling men 

in the high priced ones. In treating this subject it ^f ^„ nationalities patronizing the same house; or 

is not my aim to formulate anything original or to -^ ^j^^^ ^^^ permanent residents in a family hotel, 

offer anything that is not known to the veterans in j^ .^ ^^,^„ j^,^^^^.^ ^,^.^^ ^,,g American eats his food 

the profession. only mildly seasoned — no strong heavy sauces; he 

I will endeavor to illustrate as well as possible gats his roast beef and steaks mostly rare; while 

the methods adopted in making bills of fare which I ^^^ German prefers well done roasts, heavy soups 

believe will meet with general approval. There will ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^..^j, p,^^^^ ^^ seasoning. 

appear herewith a large and well arranged collec- j,, ^^^■^^. ,,^j^,^ ^^.^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^ ^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^ 

tionof models from houses ranging from $2.00 per ladies and children to satisfy, the stewards posi- 

day upward, representing all localities, and may be ^.^^ j^ ^ ^^^^ ^^^.^^ ^^^ ^-j^^^ p,^^^^^ ^^^ ^.^ 

taken as a fair average, the major part of them hav- „. .,^„„ .. „ „,i,„, vr^* i„ „ ui ^ j- 

° ■> ^ pleases the other. Not long ago, while standing in 

ing been favorably commented upon by various ^,,^ ^^^^^^^ ^^ ^^^ ,,^^^, .^ ^^.^.^^ ^ ^^,^^ engaged, a 

prominent hotel papers. lady came to me and said 'I wish to compliment 

INFLUENCE OF THE PRESS IN BILL OF you on your nice meals, but my husband does not 

FARE REFORMATION. like the coffee, he says it is not good." And while 

To the hotel press is due all the credit for the expressing my regrets along came a second lady 

progress which has been made in the improvement with profuse compliments and especially praising 

in bill of fare making. All the older men in the the coffee. Of course this created considerable 

profession well know how irregular the style of merriment at the expense of both parties. This 

making bills of fare was only a few years ago, [and will give only a faint idea. These houses require 

what monstrosities were often met with, which un- more radical changes in cookery than any other 

doubtedly would exist at the present time had the class. 



S8 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 



By "locality" is meant whether the house is loca- 
ted convenient to a good market, with ample variety 
of material easily procured at reasonable prices. 

When a steward from a city goes to take charge 
of a hotel in a country town he finds it necessary to 
study all the conditions referred to above, learn 
prices and what there is at his command, before he 
can make a bill of fare to suit the house. 
BILLS OF FARE TO BE EVEN IN QUALITY. 
Another very important item that should be consid- 
ered in making bills of fare for houses of any class is 
that the expensive articles are evenly distributed during 
the week with the cheaper ones; for instance, taking a 
dinner for Tuesday, there are on the bill: 
DINNER 
Consomme Colbert Split peas 
Celery Olives 

Broiled pompano 
Saratoga potatoes 
Boiled capon 
Roast beef 
Spring lamb 
Sweetbreads 
Lobster Newburg 
Mashed and boiled potatoes 
New asparagus New peas 

Corn 
Cardinal punch 
Lettuce and tomato mayonnaise 
Indian pudding 
Pie Strawberries 

Ice cream 
Cake Nuts and raisins Cheese and crackers 

Coffee 
Cost for 200 people : 



Celery 

Pompano 

Capon 

Beef 

Lamb 

Sweetbreads 

Lobster 

Asparagus 



5 5-25 

12.00 

27 00 

14.00 

8.60 

5.64 

5.00 

6.00 



$83,49 

And on Wednesday the bill would be as follows 

DINNER 

Consomme Julienne Cream of barley 

Radishes Olives 

Boiled lake trout 

HoUandaise potatoes 

ijoiled corned beef and cabbage 

Roast beef 

Turkey 

Lobster croquettes 

Spaghetti 

Mashed and boiled potatoes 

String beans Tomatoes Turnips 

Orange ice 

Vegetable salad 

Pudding 

Pie Wine jelly 

Ice cream 

Cake Fruit Nuts and raisins 

Cheese crackers 

Coffee 

Cost for 200 people : 

Radishes - - $ 2.0c 

Trout - - ■ 2. ro 

Corned beef and c - 4-50 
Beef - ■ ■ 14.00 

Turkey - - - 16.50 
Spaghetti - - 44 

String beans - - 1.80 
Lobster croquettes 



It will be noticed that the bill of Tuesday con- 
tained all high priced material and probably would 
make a satisfactory bill ; but Wednesday is slighted, 
the material is all cheaper. Calculations should be 
far enough ahead to avoid such contrasts. The 
same material will make two bills more evenly 
balanced and meet with better results. For instance, 
I will give on Tuesday 

DINNER 

Consomme Colbert Split peas 

Radishes Olives 

Boiled trout 

HoUandaise potatoes 

Boiled capon 

Roast beef 

Spring lamb 

Lobster Newburg 

Spaghetti 

Mashed and boiled potatoes 

Green peas Corn Tomatoes 

Cardinal punch 

Lettuce and tomato mayonnaise 

Indian pudding 

Pie Strawberries 

Ice cream 

Cake Nuts and raisins 

Cheese and crackers 

Coffee 

Cost for 200 people : 

Radishes - - $ 2.00 

Trout - - - 2.10 

Capon - - - 27.00 

Beef - - - 14.00 

Lamb - - • 8.60 

Lobster ■ - - 5.00 

Spaghetti - - 44 

Peas . - - - 2.60 



And for Wednesday I should give: 

Consomme Julienne Cream of barley 

Celery Olives 

Broiled pompano 

Saratoga potatoes 

Corned beef and cabbage 

Roast beef 

Turkey 

Sweetbreads 

Lobster croquettes 

Mashed and boiled potatoes 

New asparagus Turnips 

String beans 

Orange ice 

Vegetable salad 

Pudding 

Pie Wine jelly 

Ice cream 

Cake Fruit Nuts and raisins 

Cheese and crackers 

Coffee 

Cost for 200 people : 

Celery 

Pompano 

Corned beef and c 
Beef 
Turkey 
Sweetbreads 
Asparagus 



$ 5-25 

12.00 

450 

14.00 

16, 50 

5- 64 
6.00 



$41.34 



THE PRACllCAL HOIEL STEWARD, 29 
In comparing the figures it will be readily seen the pression on the bill without first ascertaining the 
summary of each bill has greatly changed, and, be- meaning and how to spell it correctly, 
sides, the first bill has lost less in quality then what USE AND ABUSE OF THE WORD MENU 
the second one gained. I do not believe in the use of the word "Menu" 
FRENCH NOT WANTED ON AMERICAN BILLS on a" everyday American dinner bill. It is too much 
OF FARE. like affectation. The name of the meal on the bills 
I do not believe in the use of French in making is simple and more pleasing to the average hotel 
bills of fare; it should be confined to the fewest patron, as Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner or Break- 
words. French is not wanted, least of all in country fast, Dinner and Supper or Tea. On holiday or spec- 
hotels, and not needed in the city houses. It will iai bills for dinner, I believe it is proper to use no 
be noticed that when the chef makes a dish with a heading at all, especially where artistic folders are 
French name it has but little call, and often when used and the proper announcement is made on the 
it is called for by some guests out of curiosity, they outer cover, which is quite sufficient. The word 
taste of it, and then if they like it, good: but often "Menu" is proper in making a banquet bill: no 
it is a waste, simply because they do not understand other word would answer so well for that purpose. 

T'"', , .,„ .. • • BREAKFAST. 

In looking over my collection of bills of fare, it is 

easily seen that the greatest progress has been made ARRANGEMEN F OF THE BREAKFAST BILL, 

in dispensing with French. Some first class houses When clam broth is served for breakfast, in my 

in the East have bills without any French, and there judgment it should be the first item on the bill. My 

is no reason why they cannot be set forth entirely reason for this is that clam broth has a stimulating 

in the English language, as well as other nations can effect, especially when the stomach is feverish. It 

make theirs in their tongue. Up to the time of the is an excellent restorative. 

late Franco Prussian war it (the French) on the Then comes fruit. In nearly all American hotels 
German bill of fare seemed indispensible, French it is served, and in every one the guest looks for it. 
being the court language. After the formation of I do not believe in enumerating the d'fferent kinds; 
the Empire one of the reformations the old Emperor simply the word "fruit" or "fruit in season" — ex- 
made was to banish the use of French at the court, cept when the berry season begins when the differ- 
Now all meals are ordered from a bill of fare printed ent kinds should be named, as strawberries. oranges, 
in the language of the land. etc. My reason for prefering the generic term is 
BILL OF FARE HEADINGS. that one is not obliged to have a full supply of the 

I do not believe in the use of headings for the different kinds in stock. Should apples and grapes 

different courses on an American plan bill of fare, run short oranges and bananas fill the bill. 

They are proper on restaurant or a la Carte bills. Next, the guest usually looks for a cereal of some 

where a large variety is offered for sale. Large kind: therefore I would place the oatmeal or 

headings over the different classes of dishes enable cracked wheat or whatever kind there is to offer, 

the patron to find more quickly what he wants; but The third dish on the bill is fish, fresh and salt, 

where the condensed table d'hote bill is in use the accompanied with what fresh relishes there are. 

items are so few that they are easily found. Then to enumerate about five different kinds of 

STOCK RELISHES OUT OF PLACE ON meat, which should differ in variety as much as 

THE CARD. possible. One day they could be broiled sirloin 

The placing of such relishes as chow chow, pickles, and tenderloin steak, ham, liver and bacon, fried 

sauces, mustard, etc., on the bill of fare is out of mush, stewed kidney and fried chicken. The next 

date. Every well conducted house has them subject day broiled tenderloin steak, mutton chops, fried 

to the call of the gue?t. sausage, ham, hominy, stewed chicken, etc. A 

METHOD OF BILL OF FARE M.AKING. limited number of dishes makes it easy to have an 

My method of making a bill of fare is, I believe, entirely different bill every day in the week, 

entirely in harmony with present advanced ideas. After this comes the potatoes; then breads and 

It is of the condensed form using as little French rolls of different kinds, griddle cakes and preserves; 

as possible. I think that few dishes, well selected then beverages, 

and well prepared, give the best satisfaction. NO WASTE IN PREP.^RING. 

USE NO AMBIGUOUS WORDS. In high-priced city hotels it is not good to limit 

I believe it improper for a steward to use an ex- the dishes to so small a number as above given: a 



go THE PRACTICAL 

greater variety is necessary; end as a great part 
of this meal is prepared as ordered, waste need not 
be necessarily greater than where a small variety 
is offered. 

BREAKFAST GOOD AT ANY HOUR. 

Where the proper attention is given Breakfast 
should be as good at eleven o'clock as at seven in 
the morning, as nothing 'ought to be prepared to last 
through the entire meal. 

The following specimens will give a fair idea of 
breakfasts are served in different hotels: 

SPECIMEN BREAKFAST BILLS OF FARE. 

Hotel Florence, Pullman, III: 

Fruit in season 

Stewed prunes Baked apples 

Oatmeal with cream 



Salt mackerel 

BROILED 

Sirloin steak Sugar cured ham Mutton chops 

Tenderloin steak, plain or with tomato sauce 

ENTREES 

Calf's liver and bacon Corned beef hash 



HOTEL STEWARD, 
for writing in what extra dishes or changes there 
may be. 

The Merchants, Omaha: 

Fruit 

Oatmeal 

Broiled whitefish 

Tenderloin steak Mutton chops 

Fried oysters 

Spareribs Sausage 

Eggs — as ordered 

French fried, baked, hashed in cream 

Hot rolls 

Toast 

Buckwheat cakes 

Maple syrup 

Coffee Tea Chocolate 

This breakfast is a bill of choice dishes, well ar 
ranged, but the pruning process overdone. 

The Hyde Park, Chicago: 

Oranges 



Clam broth 

Oatmeal with cream 

Broiled live lobster Smoked whitefish 

Sirloin steak 

Filet of venison Calf's brains. Belvedere 

Ham Bacon 

Fried chicken, cream sauce 

Eggs as ordered 

Potatoes — Baked French fried Lyonnaise 

Vienna rolls Muffins Toast 

Griddle cakes, maple syrup 
Boiled Fried Shirred Scrambled ^^^^^ ^^a Chocolate 

Omelet os ordered 

This is well selected. Will do for holiday occa- 
sions. 

Baked Fried _, „. .^^ , „. , , . 

t>r>T.'AT-vo T-T-r- 1 he Chittenden, Columbus, Ohio: 

Oranges Apples Grapes Bananas 

Hot rolls Oysters — raw, stewed and fried 

Dry, French, buttered or milk toast Radishes 

(^al^gg Oatmeal and farina with cream 

Tea Coffee Milk Cocoa Broiled white fish a la maitre d'hotel 

Fried smelts, sauce tartare Saratoga potatoes 

Hotel Orleans, Spirit Lake, Iowa: Fried spring chicken, cream sauce 

Fruit in season Mutton or lamb chops plain or a la Creole 

Rolled oats Boiled rice Sirloin or tenderloin steak with mushrooms 

Ham Broiled pig's feet, Menehould 

....... ;■.■■■■■ .; .■ ■, , Calf's liver and bacon 

Broiled or fried bass, pike or pickerel ir i .1 ^ u j 

„ , , . ... , 1 1 ■ -^i, • Veal cutlets crumbed, sauce tomato 

Tenderloin or sirloin steak, plain or with onions t-v 1 i_ n i . 

^ ,,, ,. , , Pork chops, sauce Robert 

Calf s liver and bacon „ 

„ -1 J L Country sausage 

Broiled ham tt i. . / • 

_^ , , , Hamburg steak, sauce piquante 

Stewed chicken „^ j 1 1 i. • it 

„ , , , , , Stewed honeycomb tripe a la Lyonnaise 

Corned beef hash „^ j 1 -j j 

_ . , , Stewed kidneys au madere 

t ried mush ,-^ 1 1 • 1 

„ ,^ , . Calves brains au beurre noir 

Codhsh in cream n . ^ • c- . •„*„ 

■, J Potatoes in cream Sautee potatoes 

Eggs as ordered Baked potatoes Lyonnaise potatoes 

French fried potatoes 

Fried mush Corned beef hash Codfish cakes 

„ , , „ , , „ /■/■■j V V" EGGS— Poached Scrambled Boiled Shirred 

Potatoes; Baked French fried Stewed tr ■ j 1 d i • i „ i^ A/i^^^^K^or 

Fried a la Buckingham a la Meyerbeer 

Breakfast rolls Muffins OMELETTES— Plain or with parsley, cheese, ham, 

Milk, cream and dry toast onions, kidneys 

Griddle cakes French rolls Coffee cake Pop overs Corn bread 

Coffee Chocolate Tea Wheat cakes German toast Corn cakes 

„, , , . I , Ml f u 1 f . J Peach preserves Comb honey New maple syrup 

The above are two stock bills for breakfast, used ^^^^ ^^^ Chocolate Cocoa Broma 

in places where no printer is nigh, or it does not This is a specimen of overcrowding A third less 
justify to have them printed. The blank lines are would make equally as good a bill. 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 



31 



The Albany. Denver: 

Tangerines Apple glace 

Sliced bananas with cream 

Water cress 

Clam bouillon 

Rolled oats with cream 

Eggs to order 

Easter omelet with preserves 

Mountain trout, butler sauce 

BROILED 

English mutton chops Quail on toast 

Tenderloin steak with mushrooms 

Fried oysters 

New potatoes in cream 

French fried and baked potatoes 

German popovers Milk biscuits French rolls 

Toast to order Griddle cakes Hot waffles 

Comb honey Maple syrup 

Cocoa Tea Coffee 

This, an Easter breakfast, is a first class bill, ex- 
cept the repetition of the words "with cream" w-hich 
should be avoided ; also I believe waffles are best 
for supper. 

The Arlington, Hot Springs: 

Fruit of the season 

Stewed prunes 

Young onions Radishes 

Hominy Cracked wheat 

Clam broth 

Salt mackerel Smoked herring 

Bluefish Lake trout 

Sirloin or tenderloin steak, plain or with onions 

Mutton chops Liver and bacon Ham 

Frog legs, breaded, tartare sauce 

Corned beef hash Broiled or fried tripe 

Fried mush Stewed chicken, a la creme 

EGGS— Boiled Poached Shirred 

Fried Scrambled 

Omelet, plain or with parsley, ham, cheese or jelly 

POTATOES-Baked, Saute. Chips, Hashed in cream 

French rolls Vienna rolls Corn muffins 

Graham rolls Toast Rice muffins 

Griddle cakes Corn cakes 

Coffee Tea Chocolate Buttermilk 

This is an excellent bill for a high class resort, 
where good prices are received. 

The Bates, Indianapolis: 

Apples Malaga grapes Oranges 

Radishes 

Clam broth 

Cracked wheat or boiled rice 

Eggs to order 

Omelet, with asparagus tips 

Broiled brook trout, Montpelier butter 

BROILED 

Tenderloin steak, with mushrooms 

Lamb kidneys with bacon 

Quail, with water cress 

Sausage Fried oysters 

POTATOES— Baked French fried 

Stewed in cream 

Vienna rolls Toast Corn bread 

Cream biscuits Buckwheat griddle cakes 

Preserved strawberries 

Coffee Tea Cocoa 

This is a model which commends itself. 



Hotel del Prado, Chicago: 

Cantaloupe 

Oatmeal 

Sliced cucumbers 

Broiled trout Salt mackerel 

Broiled tenderloin or sirloin steak 

Fried spring chicken, cream sauce 

Ham Bacon 

Boston baked beans, brown bread 

Eggs as ordered 

Omelets plain or with ham 

POTATOES-Baked Stewed in cream 

French fried 

Wheat cakes 



Parker house rolls 



Corn muffins 
Tea 



Coffee 

This breakfast was served 
family hotel. A good bill. 



Horn rolls 

Chocolate 

a medium-priced 



The Phillips, Dayton, O: 

Strawberries 

Rolled oats with cream 

Sliced tomatoes Young onions 

Radishes Cucumbers 

Fried pike 

Broiled tenderloin or sirloin steak 

Breakfast bacon 

Beefsteak with onions Broiled sugar-cured ham 

Fried softshell crabs, tartare sauce 

Eggs and omelets as ordered 

Potatoes French fried 

Hot rolls Blackberry butter Wheat cakes 

Tea Chocolate Coffee 

This is an excellent breakfast served at a $2.00 

per day commercial hotel. 

The Southern, St. Louis: 

Bananas Oranges Apples 

Oolong, English breakfast or green tea 

Coffee Milk Cocoa Chocolate 

Raw oysters Fried oysters 

Oat meal Breakfast food 

Broiled pickerel Finnan haddie Broiled white fish 

Sirloin or tenderloin steak, plain, 

with onions, or with mushrooms 
Mutton chops Ham Bacon Lamb kidneys 

Quail Corned beef hash Codfish balls 

Orange fritters Sausage Baked beans and pork 

Eggs — Boiled Fried Poached 

Plain or Spanish omelette 

Potatoes — Baked, hashed browned. 

French fried, hashed in cream 
Buckwheat, wheat or corn cakes 
French rolls or flutes 
Bread — Home-made, Boston brown, rye or graham 

Muffins — corn, egg or graham 
Dry or buttered toast Waffles 

The Read House, Chattanooga, Tenn: 

California oranges Baked apples 

Oatmeal or boiled rice with cream 

Broiled white shad trout, steward sauce 

Codfish in cream Salt mackerel, boiled or broiled 

Radishes 

Calf's liver and bacon Broiled sugar cured ham 

Broiled mutton chops 

Eggs to order 



3a 



THE PRACTICAL HOIKL SI i: WARD. 



Omelettes with tomatoes, ham or cheese 
Broiled sirloin or tenderloin steak, 

plain or with mushrooms 

Hamburger steak with fried onions 

Calf brains scrambled with eggs 

POTATOES — baked, Lj'onnaise, stewed in cream 

French rolls Graham and rye bread Biscuits 

Oatmeal flakes Corn muffins Graham wafers 

Buckwheat cakes Hot waffles 

Cherry preserves Comb honey 

Maple syrup New Orleans molasses 

Cjcoa Coffee Tea 



Potatoes — Lyonnaise, fried and saute 

Hot rolls Corn bread 

Dry, buttered, milk and dipped toast 

Griddle cakes 

The Randall, Fort Wayne, Ind. : 

Baked apples with cream 

Fruit Canteloupe 

Cracked wheat Rolled oats 

Fried oysters Fried fish Cod fish balls 

Broiled sirloin steak, plain or tomato sauce 

Chocolate half's liver with English bacon Country sausage 

Broiled ham Lamb chops 

Corned beef hash Fried mush 

Sliced tomatoes 

Ham, jelly or oyster omelette 

Eggs to order 

Potatoes — Boiled, French fried or stewed in cream 

French rolls Toast Corn bread 

Rice or wheat griddle cakes 

Maple syrup Honey 

Coffee Chocolate 

The six specimens above are all models and 

commendable. 



The Maxwell. House, Nashville, Tenii: 

Raspberries 

Preserved cherries Stewed prunes 

Coffee Tea Chocolate 

Grits Rolled oats 

Broiled black bass Salt mackerel 

Broiled — Sirloin or tenderloin steak 

Spring chicken 

Calf's liver 

Fried corn 
Veal cutlet, breaded 

Tripe in batter 

Corned beef hash, browned 

Eggs — Boiled, fried, scrambled, poached or shirred 

Omelets — plain, with cheese, ham, jelly, 

parsley or Spanish 

Potatoes— Boiled, French fried, Saratoga, Lyonnaise dinner. It is not meant to be a full substantial meal, 
stewed in cream 



Bacon 



Mush 



LUNCH. 

Lunch is a slight repast between breakfast and 



Breads, etc. — French, Vienna, graham, rye, corn 

Muffins — Corn, flannel 

Syrup — Maple Rock candy drip 

The Montana, Anaconda, Mont: 

Clam broth 
Radishes Cantelopes 

Oatmeal or cornmeal mush with cream 

Fried mountain trout 

Salt mackerel 

Sirloin or tenderloin steak, plain or a la carte 

Ham Veal cutlets Lamb chops Bacon 

Oysters in any style 

Fricassee of spring chicken 

Boston baked pork and beans, with brown bread 

Broiled snipe on toast 

Eggs as ordered 

POTATOES:— Baked Saute Stewed 

Fried sweets 

Plain, Vienna or graham bread 

French rolls Toast 

Currant buns 

Wheat cakes, maple syrup 

Coffee Tea Chocolate 



but simply to appease the appetite which would re- 
sult in faintness where the time between the regular 
meals is too far apart. This is especially so in the 
large cities, where occupation takes people too far 
away from their homes to enable them to return for 
Sliced tomatoes a midday meal without losing a great deal of time- 
They take their breakfast at home and a light lunch 
in some restaurant near at hand, returning home in 
the evening to a substantial dinner to which they 
can take their time. 

Family hotels serve a lunch at midday because 
the men are all away and the women and children 
do not care for substantials at that time of the day. 
It has always been the custom in the most fashion- 
able Eastern hotels so to do, also along the Pacific 

t^' _ slope among all classes of hotels and restaurants; 

Corn muffins ^ ° 

it is only of recent years that the custom is being 

adopted in the Middle and Southern states. 

Lunch is the most economical meal of the house. 

It seldom contains more than two and often not 

more than one hot dish, the balance consisting of 

cold meats from previous days, some salads and 



Hotel Tray more, Atlantic City, JV. /. : 

Fruit 

Coffee Chocolate 

Hyson, Oolong and English breakfast tea . , , , , . , ^ - ,, 

>-. , J , ^ TT ■ /^ t 1 pastry. In arrangmg I would begin about as follows 

Cracked wheat Hominy Oat meal v°-^'-^y & & » 



Fresh fish Salt mackerel 

Broiled sirloin and tenderloin steaks 

Lamb chops Calf's liver 

Breakfast bacon 

Frizzled beef 

Veal cutlet, plain or breaded 

Stewed kidney 

Eggs — Shirred, poached, scrambled 

Omelets 



Ham 



one soup or a stew of oysters or clams; next, tw-o 
fresh relishes, such as radishes, young onions, etc., 
(fish is not essential excepting on Fridays, it comes 
next on the bill); after this about two kinds of hot 
dishes — a veal cutlet or a boiled fowl and a cro- 
quette; then about three kinds of hot vegetables, 
including potatoes; then cold meats; then salads. 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD 
After this a sherbet, pastry, and last comes the Lakota, Chicago: 
beverages. 

The following specimen luncheon bills of fare are 
all good. There is some diflference in their arrange- 
ment but any of them are commendable: 



33 



Eastman, Hot Springs: 

Puree of cauliflower au croutons 

Olives Radishes Spiced onions 

Baked whitefish, tomato sauce 

Potatoes au gratin 

Roast tenderloin of beef, Jardiniere 

Mashed potatoes Potatoes boiled 

Stewed tomatoes Boiled rice 

Rabbit pot pie 

Banana fritters, glace 

Hot brown bread 

COLD— Roast beef Turkey 

Sugar cured ham Pig's feet Pickled lamb's tongue r^^ 

Dried chipped beef 

Vegetable salad 

Peach pie Custard pie 

Home made doughnuts Lunch cake 

Pineapple sherbet 

Preserved strawberries Cranberry sauce OYSTERS — Stewed 



Blue points 

Croute au pot Consomme vermicelli 

Fried scallops, ravigot sauce 

Hashed browned potatoes 

Radishes Stuffed mangoes Olives 

Broiled tenderloin steak, Bordelaise 

Braised turkey wings, a la Parisienne 

Baked macaroni with cheese 

Boiled potatoes Stewed tomatoes 

New beets Boiled rice 

COLD 

Lamb Chicken Ham Roast beef 

Pig's feet Dried beef Sardines 

Pickled lamb's tongue Beef tongue 

Salads Macedoine Potato Cold slaw 

Baked cup custard Peach pie 

Assorted cake Preserved figs canned cherries 

Sherbet d'Ananas 

Bananas 

Chocolate Coffee 



Crackers 
Brunswick, Boston : 



Cheese 



Oysters 

Consomme 

Fried 



Crackers American cheese 

English breakfast and Oolong tea 

Coffee Buttermilk 

Denison, Indianapolis : 

Consomme, in cups 

Radishes Sardines Sliced tomatoes 

Brook trout, a la Vatel 

Potatoes, brabanconne 

Boiled pickled tongue, sauce piquante 

Stewed tomatoes 

Roast sirloin of beef 

Mashed potatoes Asparagus 

Compote of domestic duck, with mushrooms 

Cream fritters, wine sauce 

COLD — Roast lamb Bologna sausage 

Boiled ham Potato salad Chicken salad 

Compressed corned beef 

Edam and American cheese 

Cranberry pie Pineapple sorbet Assorted cakes 

Fruit Coffee 

Oriental, Dallas: 

Fresh okra with chicken 

Hot rolls 

Cucumbers Pickles Radishes 

Gulf trout, a la Portugaise 

Fried sweet potatoes 

Hamburger steak, sauce piquante 

Chicken livers with mushrooms 

Roast pork, apple sauce 



Boiled potatoes 

Stewed tomatoes Boiled rice 

COLD — Roast* beef Corned beef Beef tongue 

Boned turkey Ham 

Tapioca custard pudding 

Apricot pie Ginger bread 

Assorted cake Frozen egg nogg 

Watermelons 

Preserved fruits 

American cheese Crackers 

Honey 

Buttermilk Coffee 



Broiled Pickled 

Stewed clams Fried clams 

Oat meal Cracked wheat 

COLD 

Roast beef Ham Corned beef Chicken 

Lamb Turkey Beef tongue 

Sardines Chipped beef Boned capon 

Pickled lamb's tongues 

SALAD 

Shrimp Chicken Lobster Lettuce 

DESSERT 

Ice cream Assorted cake Pies Water ice 

Fruit Crackers Cheese 

Coffee, cocoa, tea 

Arlington, Hot Springs: 

Hors d'oeuvres, assortis, club style 

Mulligatawny 

Young onions Olives Sweet mixed pickles 

Fresh shrimp, a la Newburg 

Ham with eggs, country style 

Neal cutlets, saute, a la Jardiniere 

Minced turkey, a la creme 
Mashed potatoes Browned sweet potatoes 
Rice Beets 

Stewed new turnips Fresh string beans 

Boston brown bread 

COLD— Ham Chipped beef Pigs feet 

Corned beef Tongue Roast beef 

Kippered herring Marinierte herring 

Chicken salad Lettuce Salad, a la Russe 

Pate de foie gras 

Congress pudding, brandy sauce 



Mashed potatoes Cocoanut wafers 



Assorted cakes 



Banana sherbet 
Pineapple in syrup 
American or Edam cheese 

Tea Buttermilk Chocolate 



Crackers 
Coffee 



A modest luncheon: 

Oyster 

Celery Olives 

Roast beef Baked pork and beans 

Browned potatoes Brown bread 

Lobster salad 



34 

Cold tongue 
Apple pie 
Ice cream Cake 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 



Cold roast pork 
Cocoanut pudding 
Fruit Coffee Gingerbread 



Consomme, hot or cold 
Lettuce 



Lexington, Chicago: 
Vegetable, country style 

Olives Spanish onions 

Minced chicken, Romaine 

Haricot of mutton, Parisienne 

Baked pork and beans 

Leg of veal with dressing 

Mashed potatoes Browned potatoes stewed 

Green peas Steamed rice 

COLD MEATS 

Roast beef Ham 

Corned beef Turkey Beef tongue 

Boneless pig's feet 

SALADS 

Potato Lobster Mayonnaise Cold slaw 

Wheat muffins Corn cakes 

Banana pudding, a la Conde 

Pine apple cream pie Apple pie 

Chocolate ice cream Fruit Assorted cake 

Home made preserves New comb honey 

Brie. Swiss and English cheese 

Saratoga flakes Michigan butters Bent's crackers 

English breakfast, green and Oolong tea 

Chocolate Cocoa Coffee Milk 

Burnet, Cincinnati: 

Blue points 

Consomme, en Tasse 

Broiled whitefish, steward sauce 

Sliced tomatoes Julienne potatoes Radishes 

Prime roast beef, demi glace 

Mashed potatoes Boiled potatoes String beans 

Pork chops, breaded, tomato sauce 

Deviled crab, in shell, baked 

COLD 

Roast beef Turkey Ham 

Swiss cheese Tongue Sardines 

Mayonnaise of lobster 

Cranberry pie Lemon custard pie 

Assorted cakes 
Fruit Layer raisins 

Crakers 
Cocoa Buttermilk 



Orange water ice 
Mixed nuts 
Cheese 
Coffee Tea 

Louisville Hotel: 
Consomme 



Oil-, 



es 



Sliced onions 



Stuffed perch, a I'Anglaise 
Dressed cucumbers Potatoes, a la St. James 

Green turtle steak. Reform club styls 

Chicken livers, saute a la Turinoise 

Roast saddle of mutton, Rosemary sauce 

COLD 

Roast beef Sardines Kippered herring 

Lettuce Chicken salad 

Potatoes Spaghetti Stewed tomatoes 

String beans 

Peach pie Angel food Pineapple salad 

California cherries Edam and American cheese 

Coffee Tea Milk Chocolate 

Hollenden , Cleveland: 

Rockaways 

Boston brown bread 

Olives Sliced tomatoes Young onions Radishes 

Tomato soup 

Plain lobster Sardines 

Baked beans with pork 



Baked potatoes String beans 

Pickled beets and red cabbage 

Ham Corned beef Cold roast beef Tongue 

Chicken salad 

Plain and dressed lettuce 

Custard souffle, peach sauce 

Apple pie Jelly roll 

Assorted cake Preserved crabapples 

Grape sherbet 

Crackers Cheese 

Tea Coffee 

Bananas Oranges Apples 

The Colorado, Glenwood Springs: 

Cream of ssparagus 

Sweet pickles Radishes 

Broiled whitefish maitre d'hoicl 

Small brown potatoes 

Roast spring lamb 

Sugar corn New potatoes in cream 

Stewed veal with dumpling 

Chicken livers saute, native mushrooms 

Orange sherbet 

Cold roast beef Ham Tongue 

'I'urkey Pig s feet 

St rmg bean salad 

Rolls Ginger bread 

Plain rice pudding, wine sauce Assorted cake 

Blackberry jam 

Cheese Crackers 

Tea Iced tea Coffee Milk 

The Grand, Mackinack: 

Mulligatawny 

Tomatoes Celery Olives 

Baked fillets of trout, fine herbs 

Saratoga potatoes 

Boiled fowl and pork, celery sauce 

Boiled potatoes Green peas Mashed potatoes 

Stewed tomatoes Boiled rice Asparagus 

Welsh rarebit 

Banana fritters, wine cream sauce 

Hot brown bread Ginger bread 

Combination salad Pickled beets Spiced salmon 

Pigs feet Sardines Pickled lamb tongues 

Cold roast beef Lamb Pork and beans 

Sugar cured ham Pork Tongue 

Huckleberry roly pol\- 

Pineapple sherbet 

Assorted cake 

California apricots in syrup Currant jelly 

Oeam cheese Crackers 

Figs Dates 

Tea Coffee 

DINNER. 

There is considerable difference of opinion in re- 
gard to the placing of the joints and entrees on the 
bill of fare, some claiming that the French method 
of placing the entrees before the roasts is the proper 
way, supporting their claim with good arguments; 
but the majority, I believe, favor the American way 
of placing the roasts above the entrees, giving equal 
good reasons in support of their side of the argument, 
and I should almost feel inclined to say that the 
steward might suit himself, since neither way has 
ever been declared wrong on the American bill by 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD 
good aulliorit\ 

But I prt'fer tlie placing of the roasts before the 
entrees. It is the adopted American style and is 
mostlj' in favor in hotels all over the country. Fur- 
thermore. I do not see how a sweet entree — which 
is quite popular in many hotels — can be placed above 
the roast consistently ; but it has been done. I be- 
lieve it wrong. Sweets should come after meat 
dishes. It seems to me where the French style of 
placing the entree before the roast is customary, 
there should be no sweet entree, and, if they are 
desired, should follow the roast as "entremet" or 
dainties and classed with all kinds of fritters and 
daintil>' prepared vegetables, as stuffed tomatoes, 
etc. 



35 
Chocolate ice cream 25 Assorted cake 20 

CHEESE AND CRACKERS 

Roquefort cheese 25 American cheese 15 

Swiss cheese 20 

TEA, COFFEE. ETC. 

Coffee, with cream 10 Tea, with cream 15 

Milk, per glass 10 Iced tea 10 Iced coffee to 
Corkage i 00 Bensdorp's Royal Dutch cocoa 15 



Hotel Pfi'itei\ Milwaukee: 

Blue points 25 

SOUP 

Puree of celery, with crusts 50-30 

Consomme with spaghetti 40-25 

Green turtle, with sherry 50-^0 

Tomato with crusts 40-2^ 

HORS DOEUVRES 
Celery 25 Spanish olives 15 Sardines 25 



There are two styles of meats the "a la carte" and Chili sauce 15 Caviare 25 Radishes 15 



Chow chow 15 Mixed pickles 15 

Chutney 15 Lyon sausage 25 

FISH 

Fresh mushrooms on toast 75 

Lobster Newburg, in chafing dish i 00 

Frogs legs fried, tartare sauce 75-50 

Boiled fresh codfish, oyster sauce 50-30 

dishes are cooked to order. The following speci- ^i^^,,^ ^ass 50-30 Whitefish 50-30 Lake trout 50-30 

men bills of fare will give an idea of a la carte Salmon 50-30 Codfish 50-30 Halibut steak 50-30 



"table d'hote." The a la carte is where every article 
on the bill has a fixed price, as in restaurants and 
nearly all other establishments which are not Ameri- 
can plan hotels. They usually contain a large variety 
for the patron to select from and a majority of the 



meals : 

Administration Restaurant, World' s Fair Grounds: 
SOUP 
Consomme with sago 30 

Puree of tomato with rice 30 
FISH 
Broiled bluefish, aiix fines herbes 60 

Baked trout, wine sauce 60 
BOILED 
Ox tongue, sauce piquant 60 
ROASTS 
Prime beef, au jus 75 

Spring chicken stuffed, giblet sauce 75 

ENTREES 

Beef, a la mode 60 Fricassee of veal, French peas 60 

VEGETABLES 

Potatoes, boiled or mashed, no charge 

Boiled onions 20 Curtice Bros, green peas 15 

French peas 25 Boiled rice 20 String beans 15 

New potatoes in cream 20 Asparagus on toast 30 

COLD 

Roast beef 75 Boiled tongue 50 

Corned beef 50 Anchovies 45 Boiled ham 50 

Chicken salad 60 Potato salad 30 

Sardines 50 Shrimp salad 60 

RELISHES 

Sliced tomatoes 20 Sliced cucumbers 20 

Crosse & Blackwell's pickles New pickled beets 10 

Celery 25 Olives 20 

J. & J. Coleman's English mustard 

DESSERT 

Cabinet pudding, vanilla cream sauce 20 

Apple pie 10 Mince pie 10 

Vanilla ice cream flavored with Burnett's Extracts 

exclusively 20 



ENTREES 
Boiled fowl with pork, cream sauce 50-30 

Veal sweetbreads braised. Jardiniere 80-50 

Croquettes of chicken, Financiere 80-50 
Banana fritters, brandy sauce 25 

ROAST 

Roast spring lamb, mint sauce 60-40 

Roast ribs of prime beef, pan gravy 50-30 

GAME 

Partridge 1.25-75 Prairie chicken 1.25-75 

Spring chicken 100-50 Snipes and quails 60 

Plover 60 

VEGETABLES 

Mashea or boiled potatoes 15 

Baked sweet potatoes 25 
Mashed turnips 25 Hot slaw 25 Asparagus 40 

Green peas 25 Fried parsnips 25 

SALADS 

Tomato 3c Lettuce 30 Cucumber 30 

ENTREMETS SUCRES 

Home made American pudding 25 

Cranberry pie 15 Fresh peach pie 15 

Mixed cakes 25 Mille feuilles, a la orange 25 

ICE CREAM 

Vanilla 25 Chocolate 25 Strawberry 25 

Assorted 25 

FRUITS 

Oranges 25 Bananas 20 Fi,i;s 25 

Nuts and raisins 25 Dates 20 Piums 20 

Cantaloupe 25 Pears 20 Apples 20 

Peaches with cream 25 Grapes 25 

CHEESE 

Hotel Pfister cheese 25 

Roquefort 25 Gruyere 25 American 20 

Edam 25 Camembert 25 

Demi tasse 10 Cafe Turque 25 



36 THE PRACTICAL HO 1 EL STEWARD. 

Carte du four, Hotel Grunewald, New Orleans: 



OYSTERS 



Oysters, half shell 40 

" fried 40 

" scalloped 50 



PORTION 

Doz. Half 

25 
25 
30 



Whole Half 



Salad Grunewald 40 

Anchovy salad 40 

on toast 25 

Caviar on toast 25 

Sardines 40 

Sausage de Lyon 25 



PORTION 

Doz. Half 



Oysters, on toasted English 

muffins 30 50 

Oysters, broiled on toast . .50 30 



RELISHES 



25 Sausage de Brunswig 25 

25 Celery 35 

15 Olives 25 

15 Radishes 15 

25 Sweet pickles 15 

15 Mixed " 15 

Chow-chow 15 



Whole Half 

15 
20 

15 



PORTION 
Doz. Half 

Oysters, stewed 40 25 

Ojster patties 60 35 

Oysters on spit 50 30 

Wnole Half 

Pickled onions 15 10 

Pickled beets. . . 15 10 

Mangoes 15 ic 

Cold slaw 15 10 

Pickled walnuts 15 10 

Chutney 15 10 



Whole Half 
30 
25 



Green turtle 50 

" " clear 40 

Mock turtle 35 

Chicken gumbo 35 

Puree of tomato 35 

Oyster soup 40 



25 



SOUP 

Whole Half 

St. Germain 35 20 

Crab gumbo 35 20 

Consomme 25 15 

en tasse 25 15 

with egg 40 25 

Royal 40 25 



Whole Half 

Consomme, Julienne 35 20 

Printaniere. . . .35 20 

Vermicelli 35 20 

a la Colbert .. .50 30 
Onion soup 35 20 



FISH 
Stewed terrapin, Maryland style 



$1.25 



Whole Half 

Broiled pompano 75 40 

" Spanish mackerel 75 40 

" blue fish 60 35 

" sea trout 60 35 



Filet of sole with white 

wine sauce 65 

Green trout 50 

Croakers 50 



Whole Half 

Stuffed crab 35 

Lobster broiled 75 



LOBSTER AND CRABS 

Whole Half 

I 00 



Whole Half Whole Half 
Tenderloin trout, tartar 

sauce 60 30 

35 Red ( Drawn butter. 60 35 

30 , snapper < Courtbouillnn. 60 35 

30 Sheeph'd ( Hollandaise. . .60 35 

Salt mackerel 60 40 



20 Frog legs 75 

40 Lobster a la Newburg 



Whole Half 

Shrimp a la Creole 50 30 

Shrimp, plain 50 30 



Whole Half 



Eggs boiled 35 

" fried 35 

" shirred 35 

" scrambled 35 

" " with tomatoes 50 

" " with bacon . . .50 

" poached on toast . . .50 

plain 35 

" au beurre noir 35 

Smoked beef with eggs . . .40 



30 
30 



25 



EGGS AND OMELETTES 

Whole Half 



20 Ham and eggs 40 

20 Bacon and eggs 40 

20 Spanish omelette 50 

20 Omelette, plain 40 

30 " with onions. .. .50 



fine herbs 50 
tomatoes 50 

ham 50 

jelly 50 

cheese . . .50 



Whole Half 

25 Omelette, with peas 50 30 

25 " " oysters ... 75 40 

30 " " mushrooms 75 40 

25 " " rum 75 40 

30 " " ch'ken Tver 80 45 

30 " " truffles I 00 60 

30 " " kidneys ... 50 30 

3« " " asparagus . 90 50 

30 " soufflee I 25 75 

30 



GAME 



Prairie chicken. 

Quail 

Plover 



Mallard duck. 
Black duck . . . 
Teal duck . . . . 



Papabotte. 

Squab 

Snipe 



STEAKS AND CHOPS TO ORDER 



Small sirloin steak 

one only) 

Sirloin steak 

" with peas . 
" olives. 
" onions 
" " mush's 
" Bernaise . . 
" Bordelaise . 
" with truffles 

Extra sirloin steak 

" with onions 
" " " peas . . 

" " " olives. 

" " Bordelaise . 

" '■ with mush's 

" " Bernaise .. . 

" " with truffles 



Whole Hs 
(for 



50 
60 
60 

60 

75 
75 
75 



I 00 
I 00 
I 00 
I 30 
I 30 
I 30 
I 5° 



Whole Half 

Tenderloin steak 90 

30 " with peas i 00 

" olives . . . r 00 
" mush's . . I 30 
" truffles . . I 50 

Bernaise i 30 

Chateaubriand i 50 

with mushrooms. 2 00 

" " truffles 2 25 

Porterhouse steak, single.: 00 
with mush's . i 25 

Extra porterhouse i 50 

with mush's. 2 00 

Hamburg steak 40 

" tartar 60 

Lamb chops, plain 60 40 

breaded.... 60 40 
" " with peas. . . 75 50 



Whole Half 

Lamb chops tomato s'c ... 75 40 

soubise 90 60 

English niLit'n chops each 40 

Mutton chops, plain 60 40 

breaded, . . 60 40 

" toma- 
to sauce. . . 60 40 
with peas. . 60 40 

Veal cutlets, plain 50 30 

breaded .... 60 35 
tomato 

sauce 60 35 

Veal chops, piain 50 30 

breaded 60 35 

tomato 

sauce 75 40 

Milanaise .... 75 40 

Pork chops 50 30 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 



37 



Whole Half 

Broiled or fried ham 50 30 

English bacon. .. . 50 30 

Chicken broiled 75 40 

a la Marengo....! 25 75 

fried Maryl'd St. .1 25 75 

" fricassee 90 60 

patties 75 40 

hash 65 35 

" with egg 75 40 

" croquette 75 40 

" with peas. 85 45 

" liver saute, plain. 65 35 
" " " with 

mushrooms 80 45 

" en Brochette 75 40 

Whole Half 

Potatoes boiled 15 10 

" French fried 15 10 

" hashed brown... 15 10 

julienne 15 10 

maitre d'hotel...i5 10 

Lyonnaise 15 10 

Saratoga 15 10 

croquettes 35 20 

sautes 15 ID 

stewed 15 10 

Parisian 15 10 

broiled 15 10 

hashed cream ...15 10 

Whole Half 

Roast chicken 75 40 

beef 50 30 

veal 50 30 

mutton 50 30 

lamb 60 40 

Pate de foie gras i 25 75 

Sardines 50 30 

Whole Half 

Salad, lobster 75 40 

shrimp 60 35 

chicken 75 40 

asparagus 75 40 

tomato 40 25 

Whole Half 

Caprera 25 15 

American 25 15 

Camembert 25 15 



Cold custard pudding. 

Pies 

Cup custard 

Assorted cakes 

Chocolate eclairs 

Wine jelly 

Tutti-frutti 



Whole Half 

Apples 25 15 

Oranges 25 15 

Bananas 25 15 

Grapes 25 25 

Whole Half 

Dry toast 15 10 

Buttered toast 25 15 

Milk toast 35 20 

Cream toast 40 25 



Coffee, per pot 

Pot coffee (for two). 

Demi tasse cafe 

Pot of cocoa 



MISCELLANEOUS TO ORDER 

Whole Half 

Frizzled beef with cream . 40 25 

Mutton hash 50 30 

" with egg 60 35 

Lamb fries, tomato sauce. 65 35 

•• tartar " 65 35 

kidneys 50 30 

Kidneys, stewed, plain. .. . 50 30 

Cornbeef hash 40 25 

Pork sausage 50 30 

Kidneys, broiled 50 30 

" stewed with mush's 75 40 

" en Brochette ... . 50 30 

Calf's head. Vinaigrette . . 60 35 

"en tortue 75 40 

" " a la Poulette. 75 40 

VEGETABLES 

Whole Half 

Potatoes au gratin 25 15 

Mushrooms, stewed 40 25 

French peas 40 25 

Green peas 25 15 

Flageolets 40 25 

String beans 25 15 

Asparagus, oyster bay . . . .65 35 

German asparagus, Lubec. 90 50 

Cauliflower a la creme. .. .65 35 

Boiled rice 15 10 

Beets 15 JO 

Onions, fried 25 15 

boiled 25 15 

COLD DISHES 

Whole Half 

Club sandwich 65 35 

Boiled ham 40 25 

" tongue 40 25 

Pickled " 40 25 

Ham and beef sandwich. . 25 15 

Chicken sandwich 40 25 

Sardine " 40 25 

SALADS 

Whole Half 

Salad, potato 25 15 

Macedoine 75 40 

celery 50 25 

Spanish salad 35 20 

Cucumbers. . . 50 25 

CHEESE 

Whole Half 

Brie 35 20 

Roquefort 35 20 

Swiss 25 15 

DESSERT 

Lemon ice 15 

Meringue glace 20 

Vanilla 15 

Charlotte russe 20 

Roman punch 20 

Kirsch " 20 

Lalla Roohk punch 20 

FRUIT IN SEASON 

Whole Half 

Calif, canned pineapple. . .25 15 

peaches. .. .35 20 

" '■ plums 35 20 

pears 35 20 

BREAD AND CAKES 

Whole Half 

Bread and milk 25 15 

Rice and milk 25 15 

Jenny Lind cakes 25 t5 

German pan " 25 15 

COFFEE AND TEA 
Pot green tea 

" black tea ^ 25 

" Oolong tea 



Whole Half 

Calf's brains, pl'n or fried 50 30 

'• " brown but'r. 60 35 

" liver, br'led or fried 40 25 

with bacon... 50 30 

" " onions . . 50 30 

Sweetbread, au jus 7s 40 

with tomato s'ce. 75 40 

" peas 75 40 

Jardiniere 75 40 

financiere 75 40 

au truffles i 25 75 

Welsh rarebit 75 40 

Golden buck 90 50 

Scotch woodcock 90 50 



Whole Half 

French string beans 50 30 

Macaroni or spaghetti, pl'n. 35 20 
with 

cheese. 35 20 

au 

gratin.. 35 20 
" a rital- 

ienne..35 20 

Succotash 25 15 

Corn, stewed 25 15 

Lima beans 25 15 

Tomatoes, stewed 25 15 



Whole Half 

Cold turkey 60 35 

Tongue sandwich 25 15 

Swiss cheese sandwich .. . 25 15 

Russian caviar 45 25 

on toast 50 30 

Anchovy toast 50 30 



Whole Ha 

Water cress 25 15 

Lettuce, plain 35 . 20 

with mayonnaise. 40 25 

" egg 35 20 

Flageolet 90 45 

Whole Half 

Gorganzola 25 15 

Neufchatel 25 15 

With Guava jelly extra. ..35 20 



Grunewald " . 

Angel food 

Biscuit glace 

Pudding glace , 

Orange cream cake. 
Fig cake 



25 



Whole Half 

Calif, canned apricots. .. .35 15 

cherries. . . .25 15 

Baked apples 40 25 

Stewed prunes 40 25 

Whole Half 

Buckwheat cakes 25 15 

Rice " 25 15 

Corn " 25 15 

Wheat " 25 15 



Pot of chocolate 

Cream per glass. 

Milk 

Coffee to order.. 



30 



25 



N. B. Half portions served to one person only. 



38 THE PRACTICAL 

Table d'hote (according to the Standard Diction- 
ary), is a full meal for a price. This, I believe, is 
about the most proper definition of the word as 
applied in America, a meal practically selected by 
the caterer, from which the guest may choose what 
he desires, for a certain fixed price, as in all Amer- 
can plan hotels. The literal definition of the word 
is "The landlord's table; a common table for guests.'' 
There is a general impression that a table d'hote 
meal (menu) consists of a limited variety, the guest 
having the choice of only one (Hobson's) or two 
articles in each course. In my opinion, however, 
any bill of fare which is served at so much for the 
meal, whether breakfast, lunch, dinner or supper, is 
a table d'hote meal. 

In many places there is a notice at the foot of 
table d'hote bills of fare to the affect that any guest 
wishing a dish not on the card can obtain the same 
a la carte (or at restaurant prices). The following 
bills are fair specimens of regular American plan 
(table d'hote) dinners: 
The Hollenden, Cleveland: 

Blue points, on deep shell 

Salted almonds 

Mock turtle, au Madeira Chicken bouillon 

Fresh lobster, Maryland 

Sliced tomatoes Olives Radishes Cucumbers 

Fillet of pompano, vin blanche 

Potato croquettes 

Boiled capon, oyster sauce 

Spinach Asparagus tips 

Roast ribs of beef 

Boiled Bermuda potatoes Mashed potatoes 

Spring lamb, mint sauce 

New spring beets, butter sauce 

Baked sweet potatoes 
Sweetbreads glace, French peas 

Frog legs, fried tartar 

Orange fritters, Benedictine 

Champagne punch 

Broiled plover, on toast 

Sweet potato chips 

Chicken salad 

Charlotte, a la Hollenden 

Orange cream pie Almond macaroons 

Vanilla wafers Tutti frutti, glace 

Strawberries, with whipped cream 

Oranges Apples Bananas Bartlette pears 

American, Brie and Roquefort cheese 
Nuts Raisins Figs 

Coffee 
Dishes not on the Menu will be served a la carte — 
Waiters will supply checks. 
Auditorium, Chicago: 

Little neck clams 

Mock turtle, a I'Anglaise Clear okra with chicken 

Cold consomme in cups 

Soft shell crabs, sauce Ravigote 

Olives Radishes 

Sliced tomatoes 

Filet of Spanish mackerel, Bearnaise 

Sliced cucumbers Potatoes Hollandaise 



HOTEL STEWARD. 

Ribs of beef 

Stewed tomatoes Mashed potatoes 

Spring lamb, mint sauce 

New potatoes Cauliflower 

Sweetbread glace, Perigord 

Green peas 

Punch, a la Romaine 

Plover with English bread sauce 

Dressed lettuce 

Currant pie Raspberry short cake 

Vanilla ice cream Petits fours 

Raspberries with cream Peaches Watermelon 

Stilton and Brie cheese 

Cafe noir 

THE VEGETABLES. 

Vegetables should be grouped together and not 

be placed witn the different meat dishes, excepting 

where it is intended to serve the meal in courses, or 

for a banquet. The guest usually orders all such 

vegetables as he may desire at one time and where 

they are spread all over the bill it takes them too 

much time to find what they wish; or if they are not 

close students miss just what they would like, and 

are not aware that it is on the bill until they see 

their neighbor served with it. 

PUNCH. 

Punch is served in many hotels every day, and 

where once started it is like a bad habit, "hard to 

be broken and yet almost indispensable when the 

habit is once contracted." I doubt the commend- 

ability of this addition because of its injurious effect 

on the digestive organs. In placing it on the bill of 

fare it should be immediately above the game. In 

arranging a dinner bill I should begin about as 

follows: 

ARRANGEMENT OF THE DINNER BILL OF 

FARE. 

When oysters or clams, they should begin ; in their 

absence some relish (hors d'oeuvres). 

I — oysters or clams. 

2 — I relish of some kind. 

3 — 2 soups (i clear, i heavy). 

4 — relishes. 

5 — I fish with one kind of potatoes. 

6 — I boiled dish, if desired. 

7 — 2 roasts. 

g j 2 kinds of potatoes. 

( 3 kinds of vegetables. 

9 — 2 entrees. 

lo — I punch, if desired. 

II — I game. 

12 — I or 2 salads. 

13 — I pudding. 

14 — I pie, cake. 

15 — I ice cream, i jelly or charlotte russe, etc. 

16 — fruit, nuts, raisins. 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

The Maxwell House, Nashville, Tenn: 



39 



17 — Cheese and crackers. 
18 — black coffee (with cognac, if desired.) 
It is optional to place the cheese and crackers 
before or after the fruit, nuts and raisins, but as a 
great many epicures call for cheese and crackers 
with black coffee at the end of the nieai I believe 
the above arrangement proper and in the order in 
which the differen;; courses are usually called for. 
STRIVE FOR VARIETY IN THE BILL OF FARE. 
Another important item in making a bill of fare is 
that all dishes form a distinct variety, no two kind 
should be alike, for instance: Consomme with rics 
and cream of barley do not belong together — the 
rice and barley being both cereals, forms a similarity. 
Consomme jardiniere and cream of barley will form 
a better contrast. The same with roasts and en- 
trees. With roast turkey need not be chicken or 
any other kind of fowl in the entrees. 

Among the vegetables, lima beans and string beans 
or succotash ought not to be on the bill at the same 

time; also turnips and beets, or parsnips, or oyster Cream of capon, Richmond 
plant are too much alike. 

Attention should also be paid to sauces and ga-, 
nishes: they should not be all white or all yellowr 
nor brown. For instance: There is fish with tartar 
sauce; the sauce with the first entree can be brown 
and the second white or red. 

Nor does it look well to have tomato soup then 
sliced tomatoes, fish with tomato sauce and possibly 
stuffed tomatoes among the entrees on the bill at 
the same time, no matter how cheap they are. 

I would not have the same article more than once- 
on the bill if possible. Of course there are excee- 
tions in some instances. The following speicp 
men dinner bills of fare from different hotels are 
good models : 

The Southern, St. Louis: 

Blue points 

Celery 

Pigeon broth 

Mangoes Salted almonds 

Terrapin, Maryland style 

Brook trout, tartar sauce 

Sliced tomatoes Julienne potatoes 

Roast sirloin of beef 

Green peas Roast sweet potatoes 

Wild turkey stuffed, chestnut dressing 

German asparagus 
Supreme of prairie chicken, truffle sauce 

SOUTHERN HOTEL PUNCH 

Canvas back duck, currant jelly 

Game salad. Julienne 

English plum pudding, hard and brandy sauce 



Blue points 

Cream of partridge, a la Mt. Vernon 

Chicken clear, okra 

Queen olives Salted almonds 

Petits bouchees, Duchesse 

Broiled Spanish mackerel, maitre d 'hotel 

Potatoes a la Russe 

Boiled capon, sauce chipolate 

Asparagus 

Prime cut of beef Spring lamb mint sauce 

Mashed potatoes Carolina croquettes Green peas 

Stewed terrapin, Maryland style 

Baked apples, with rice conde 

LALI.A ROOKH PUNCH 

Roast quail, stuffed. Perigord 

Dressed lettuce 

Washington pudding, lemon saucf 

Sliced apple pie Pumpkin custard pie 

Fancy cakes Neapolitan ice cream 

Confections 

Nuts Fruits Figs 

American, Roquefort cheese Crackers 

Coffee 

Hotel Trulock, Pine Hhiff, Ark: 

Caviar on toast 

Consomme royale 

Lettuce Radishes Tomatoes 

Broiled ponipano a la Tantj' 

Potatoes duchesse 

Boiled reindeer tongue, chasseur 

Ribs of prime beef, demi glace 

Mashed browned potatoss Stuffed egg plant 

Roast spring chicken, dressing 

Candied yams Asparagus, Hollandaise 

Filet of beef, a ia Bernaise 

Sweetbreads braise financiere 

Baba au rum 

ANGELICA PUNCH 

Roast saddle of venison, Tyrolienne 

Celery salad 

Steamed fruit pudding, brandy sauce 

Lemon meringue pie Green apple pie 

Rhine wine jelly 

Delmonico ice cream Assorted cake 

Nuts Raisins 

Crackers Cheese 

Coffee 



Tutti-frutti ice cream 

De brie Toasted crackers 

Fruit Cider Coffee 



Read House. Chiitt^iuoo^a: 

Fish chowder Consomme, au riz 

B('iled ialmon, anchovy sauce 

Cucumbers Hollandaise potatoes 

Roast ribs of beef, dish gravy 

Boiled sweet potatoes Stewed oyster plant 

Roast young turkey, cranberry sauce 

Mashed potatoes Hubbard squash 

Roast veal, brown sauce 

Lima beans a la Veloute 

'I'ennessee corn pone Buttermilk 

Boiled calf's head, vinaigrette 

Scalloped oysters 

Compote of pears, Richelieu 

Cocoanut pudding, lemon sauce 

Apple pie Pumpkin pie 

Rum jelly Assorted cake 

Vanilla ice cream 

Watermelon Apples 

Edam and American cheese Crackers 

Coffee 



40 



THE PRACTICAL HOIliL STEWARD. 



The Revere House, Chicago: 

Puree of green peas Bouillon 

Sliced tomatoes Young onions 

Broiled Spanish macKerel, anchovy butter 

Pommes Parisienne 

Beef tongue, tartar sauce 

Roast ribs of beef, demi glace 

Mashed potatoes Spinach with egg 

Domestic duck stuffed, currant jelly 

Stewed new tomatoes 'New succotash 

Sweetbreads glace a la financiere 

Fresh lobster a la Newburg 

Orange fritters, Curacao 

CARDINAL PUNCH 

Chicken salad 

Pineapple souffle with w hipped cream 

Peach pie Raspberry meringue pie 

Almond ice cream Assorted cake 

Fruits Nuts Raisins 

Watermelon 

Edam and American cheese Water cracker 

Coffee 

Netv Hyde, Ridguuay, Pa: 

Saddle rocks 
Consomme, Deslignac 

Olives 
Baked shad, Italienne 
Boiled tongue, tomato sauce 
Sirloin of beef, brown gravy 

Loin of veal, browned potatoes 
Turkey stuffed, cranberry sauce 
small patties of oysters, bechamel 
Chicken croquettes, peas 

Sweetbreads larded. Toulouse 

Rice with peaches, a la Conde 

PORT WINE SHERBET 

Lobster salad 

Mashed potatoes Fried parsnips 

French baked potatoes 

Stewed tomatoes Cold slaw Creamed onions 

English fruit pudding, hard and brandy sauce 

Apple pie Lemon meringue pie Mince pie 

Vanilla ice cream Baked apples, powdered sugar 

Fancy cakes Fruit Layer raisins 

Lemon jelly Coffee 

Leiand Hotel, Springfield: 

Bluepoints 

Celery 

Green turtle 

Russian caviar Olives 

Broiled Spanish mackerel, maitre d'hotel 

Duchesse potatoes 
Boiled beef tongue with spinach 
Roast ribs of beef Turkey, cranberry sauce 

Chicken pie. New England style 
Oyster pattie, a la Leiand 

Charlotte of apricots, sauce chartreuse 

ROCK PUNCH 

Roast quail, au cress Broiled teal duck 

Boned turkey, aspic jelly Fresh shrimp mayonnaise 
Asparagus tips Sweet potatoes Green peas 

Mashed potatoes String beans 

Mince pie Plum pudding, hard sauce 

Pumpkin pie Assorted cake 

Tutti frutti ice cream Fruit 

Hickory nuts and cider 

Roquefort, DeBrie and cream cheese 

Water crackers Coffee 



The Plankinton, Milwaukee: 
Tomato, a la Creole Consomme 

Sliced tomatoes Olives Sliced cucumbers 
Broiled whitefish, a la maitre d'hotel 

Saratoga chips 
Roast chicken, giblet sauce 
Cauliflower Green corn 

Roast sirloin of beef 

Mashed and boiled potatoes 
Roast saddle of lamb, currant jelly 
String beans Spinach 

Pigeon stuffed, a I'Anglaise 

Soft shell crabs fried, Bearnaise 

Pine apple fritters, rum sauce 

PUNCH AU KIRSCH 

Salads 

Lettuce Pickled beets Chicken 

Boned capon Pate of fat livers 

Raspberry roll, brandy sauce 

Custard pie Apple pie 

Assorted cake Wine jelly 

Charlotte russe Confectionary 

Ice cream royale 

Roquefort, Edam and American cheese 

Water crackers 



Nuts 



Fruit 

Buttermi 



Vt.: 

Reine 
Pepper relish 



Raisins 
Coffee Water melon 

The Avenue House, St. Johusbury, 
Blue points 
Puree of chicken a li 
Queen olives 

Boiled turbot, Estragon 

Windsor potatoes 

Cold slaw Dressed lettuce Pickled onions 

Boiled native turkey, sauce supreme 

Pressed calf's head Potted tongue 

Filet of beef, larded, financiere 

Chicken saute, Marengo 

Spanish puffs, glace au cognac 
Roast prime ribs of beef, dish gravy 

Loin of lamb, brown gravy 

Mallard duck, currant jelly 
Steamed and mashed potatoes 
Green peas Stewed tomatoes Shelled beans 

Spaghetti a I'ltalienne 

PUNCH ROMAINE 

Salmon salad 

Baked Indian pudding with whipped cream 

Sliced apple pie Raspberry tart pie 

Sherry wine jelly Golden cream 

Lemon ice cream 

Assorted cake Bon-bons Fruits Nuts 

Confectionary Raisins 

Graham and water crackers 

Sage and American cheese 
Coffee 

St. Cloud Hotel, Canon City, Colo.: 

Consomme a la Victoria 

Baked St. Lawrence river salmon, maitre d'hotel 

Queen olives Celery Sliced tomatoes 

Boiled capon, cream sauce 

Young turkey, oyster dressing, cranberry sauce 

Prime cuts of beef, Yorkshire pudding 

Fillet of beef aux Champignons 

Charlotte of peaches, sherry wine 

Baked sweet potatoes Sugar corn 

Mashed potatoes 

Cabinet pudding brandy sauce 

Apple pie Strawberries with cream 

Port wine sherbet Assorted cake 



THE PRACTICAL 



Nuts 



American cheese 



Wafers 



Figs 



Tea Ciiocolate Milk Coffee 



Hotel Carey, Wichita Kan. : 

Mock turtle Consomme Royal 

Filet of sole, sauce remoulade 

Serpentine potatoes 

Radishes Pickled beets Green onions 

Small bouchees, a la Montglas 

Boiled chicken, sauce supreme 

Prime ribs of beef, au jus 

Asparagus Mashed potatoes 

Spring lamb with mint sauce 

Sifted peas Spinach Boiled potatoes 

Calves head en tortue 

Fresh mushrooms, sautee on toast 

Hard shell fritters, glace au rum 

SORBKT A 1,'ANANAS 

Fresh lobster en Mayonnaise 

Apricot pie Orange meringue pie 

Boiled lemon pudding, sauce Sabayon 

Strawberry short cake Chocolate cream 

Almond ice crtam Assorted fancy cake 

Fruit Raisins Nuts 

Cream cheese Coffee Butter crackers 

Tke Trcinont. Oshkosh. Wis.: 

Clam chowder Consomme 

Radishes Lettuce Queen olives 

iioiled Lake Superior trout, parsley sauce 

Julian potatoes 

Boiled tongue, piquant sauce 

Prime roast beef with gravy 

Roast loin of veal with dressing 

Fricassee chicken with dumplings 

New boiled potatoes Mashed potatoes 

Green peas Hot slaw 

Stewed kidneys, wine sauce 

Farina cake with jelly 

Shrimp salad 

Apple pie Peach pie 

Rice pudding, hard sauce 

Orange sherbet Wine jelly 

Oranges Apples Bananas 

Assorted cake American cheese Assorted nuts 

Swiss cheese 

Tea Coffee Milk 

Bent's water crackers Boston brown bread 

Home made bread 

SUPPER. 

Supper, the evening meal, is served in nearly all 
country commercial houses and in a great many city 
houses as well. It should consist mainly of light 
foods, cereals of some kind, some stewed or fried 
oysters, when in season, or clams in some way; a 
fritter, some cold meats, breads, toast, waffles, fruit, 
sauces and beverages. But where dinner is served 
at midday in houses depending upon the traveling 
public, it is necessary that the supper be more sub- 
stantial, especially where a man has been traveling 
all day and is tired and hungry, something more 
than the above-named items is wanted. Even to the 
regular boarder the wait from noon to evening has 
been long enough to fit him for a substantial meal. 



HOTEL STEWARD. 41 

I do not believe, however, that it is necessary to 
enumerate nearly all available meats in the market; 
four or five hot meat dishes and eggs ought to be 
quite sufficient. 

In my opinion fruits should never begin the supper; 
it seems out of place. "Fruit first in the morning 
and last at night" is the old saying, and I believe it 
a good rule. 

In arranging a supper I should make it about as 
follows : 

I — Stewed oysters or cold consomme. 
2 — Some fresh relishes. 
3 — Cereals. 

4 — 2 fishes — a broiled and a fried. 
5—1 or 2 broiled meats. 
6 — I or 2 fried dishes. 
7 — I or 2 made dishes. 
8— Eggs. 
9 — Potatoes. 

10 — Cold meats and salads. 
II — Breads, toasts, etc. 
12 — Fruits, cake. 
13 — Beverages. 
The following specimen is a supper served at the 
Bates House, Indianapolis, and which I believe first 
class . 

Consomme in cups 

Cucumbers Sliced tomatoes Pickled beets 

Chowchow 

Cracked wheat or cerealine, with cream 

Eggs to order 

Omelets, plain or with jelly 

Baked lake salmon, Chevaliere 

Broiled tenderloin steak, plain or with piquant sauce 

Veal cutlets breaded, Milanaise 

Rissoles of chicken, Madeira sauce 

Baked, domestic fried and hashed brown potatoes 

String beans Saratoga chips 

COLD 

Roast beef Bologna sausage Roast fowl 

Pig's feet Boiled ham Ox tongues 

Lettuce Baked pork and beans Lobster salad 

Finger rolls Toast 

New England griddle cakes Tea buns 

Vienna, Graham and rye bread 

Boston brown bread Home made bread 

Maple syrup Rock candy drips 

Watermelon Red raspberries Blackberries 

Sherbet Assorted cake 

Coffee Iced tea Milk Tea 

The following specimens are commendable: 
Louisville Hotel, Louisville: 

Blue points 

Spanish onions Olives Salami 

FISH — Broiled trout, a la maitre d'hotel 

Saratoga chips 

BROILED — Sirloin or tenderloin steak 

Lamb chops with bacon 

Ham 

ENTREES — Venison steak, club style 

Stewed green turtle in cases 



42 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 



Fried oysters, a la tartare 

Banana fritters, rum sauce 

Eggs and omelets as ordered 

COLD — Roast beef Ox tongue Ham 

Sardines Kippered herring Lettuce 

(-elery mayonnaise 

POTATOES— Saute or French fried 

Oat meal porridge with cream 

Griddle cakes with maple syrup 

Compote of peaches Preserved cherries 

Strawberry jam 

Coffee Milk Chocolate 

Oolong, Congo or Young Hyson tea 

Phillips House, Dayton, O.: 

Cracked wheat 

Olives Celery Mangoes 

Fried yellow perch 

Potatoes a la Reitz 

Tenderloin or sirloin steak 

Pork spare ribs 

Broiled or fried ham Steak with onions 

Baked potatoes Potatoes Chateau 

French toast 

Eggs as ordered 

Omelette 

Cold roast beef, ham and fowl 

Chicken salad 

Tea biscuits Jenny Lind pancakes 

Baked apples 

Assorted cake 

Tea Chocolate Coffee 

The Maxwell, Nashville, Tenn. : 

Consomme in cups 

Pickled Beets Olives 

Coffee Cocoa Tea 

Cracked wheat 

Tenderloin steak Kidneys Bacon 

Cold roast beef Tongue Ham 

Eggs and omelets as ordered 

Potato salad Cold slaw 

Potatoes — French fried, saute 

Finger rolls Flannel cakes 

Assorted cake 

Syrup — maple Rock candy drip 

Lemon cling peaches 

American cheese Crackers 

The Southern, St. Louis: 

Consomme 

Green gages Stewed prunes 

Oyster stew 

Broiled — Jack salmon Fried smelts Whitefish 

Sliced tomatoes 

Sirloin or tenderloin steak, plain, vvith onions, or 

drip gravy 

Mutton chops Ham Bacon Tripe 

Chicken hash on toast 

Calf's feet, fried in batter 

Eggs — Boiled Fried Shirred 

Plain or kidney omelette 

Cold — Roast beef Ham Marined herring 

Turkey Smoked tongue Veal 

Salad a la Russe Dressed lettuce 

Potatoes — Baked German fried ' French fried 

Saratoga chips 

Bread Toast Rolls 

Oat meal and Indian meal, vvith cream 

Corn or wheat cakes 

Assorted cakes Ginger bread 

Oolong, English breakfast and green tea 

Baked apples 

Chocolate Coffee Milk 



Cameron House, La Crosse, Wis. : 

Bouillon en tasse 

Salted wafers 

Broiled sardines on toast 

Sliced cucumbers Sliced tomatoes 

Filet of turkey, sliced oranges 

Baked potatoes 

Cold — Tongue Salmon Ham 

Boned chicken en aspic jelly 

Russian punch 

Fresh lobster salad en mayonnaise 

Red raspberry shortcake 

Hot waffles with pure maple syrup 

Plain and rye bread Tea biscuit 

Toast to order 

Assorted cake 

Crackers Edam cheese 

Coffe Tea Iced tea 

The Randall, Evansville, Ind. : 

Shell oysters 

Celery Mangoes 

Fried smelts 

Hominy grits Apple tapioca 

BROILED 

Tenderloin steak Sirloin steak 

Plain or with onions 

Tripe Pig's feet 

Chicken croquettes, with green peas 

Calf's head in omelette 

Veal cutlets, plain or breaded 

Pearl paste, with jelly 

POTATOES 

Baked Shoestring 

Old fashioned fried Potato cakes 

Smearkase 

Eggs to order 

COLD 

Roast beef Lunch tongue 

Baked beans 

Toast — all wa)s 

Current buns French horns 

Corn or buckwheat cakes 

Honey Maple syrup 

French sherbet 

Quince preserves Cup custard 

Assorted cake 

Tea Coffee 

The Grand, Indianapolis: 

Bluepoints 

Sliced tomatoes Pickled peaches Radishes 

Consomme Oyster stew 

Cracked wheat or farina mush with cream 

Broiled bluefish, Ipmon butter 

Saratoga chips 

Broiled tenderloin or sirloin steak, plain or with 

French peas 

Veal cutlets, tomato sauce 

Minions of beef, financiere 

Welsh rare-bit au gratin 
Eggs as ordered 
Caviar omelets 
Baked, French fried and hashed brown potatoes 

String beans with bacon 

Cold — Boiled ham Roast beef Lamb's tongue 

Fowl Marinated herring Sardines 

Chicken salad 

Graham, rye or Boston brown bread 

Crown rolls Rusks Egg muffins Toast 

Wheat or buckwheat griddle cakes Flemish waffles 

Lemon cling peaches Preserved peaches 

Assorted cake Stewed rhubarb Sherbet 

Coffee Tea Cocoa 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 



43 



Planters Hotel, St. Louis: 

OYSTERS 

Blue points 25 Shrewsburys 40 

Cape Cods on deep shell 40 

SPECIALTIES IN OYSTERS 
Stewed in milk 25 Fancy roast 40 



plain 25 

in cream 40 

Fried 30 

0>ster patties 30-50 



Broiled, celery sauce 50 

Escalloped au gratin 40 

En brochette 50 

Steamed in shell 60 



LITTLE NECK CLAMS 

On shell 25 Stewed 30 

Fried 35 Steamed 50 

A la Nantalse 60 

Bouillon en tasse 20 Clam broth en tasse 25 

Chicken gumbo passe en tasse 35 

Celery 30 Caviar 25-40 

Olives 20 Anchovies. 30-5© 

SPECIAL SELECTIONS 

T-errapin a la Maryland i 00-2 00 Terrapin a la Manhattan i 00-2 00 

Lobster a la Newburg 60-1 00 Lobster cold, sauce tartar 50-90 



Bordelaise 601 00 

broiled 50-90 

stuffed a la Chevreuse 45-80 

Oyster crab patties 40-75 

Hard siieil crabs deviled, sauce tartar 40-75 

Ooquettes of crab meat 35-6o 



croquettes, Cardinal 40-75 

a la Diable 50-90 

Oyster crabs fried 60-1 00 

a la Maryland 80-1 50 

Crab meat a la Lorenzo 3S-6o 

Shad roe au beurre noir 40"75 



Broiled sardines on toast 35-60 

Chicken croquettes with peas 4075 

Sweetbread cutlets " 4075 

Deviled lamb kidneys 40-75 

Chicken or turkey sandwich 20 



Welsh rarebit 40 

Golden buck 50 

Scotch woodcock 40 

Club sandwich 25 

Sandwiches 15 



GAME 



Mallard duck 60-1 00 

Golden plover 60 

Red head duck 1501 

Quail 

Partridge 



English pheasant 2 00 

Teal duck 60 

Canvasback duck 2 50 

Antelope steak 60-1 00 

Squab 60 

Prairie chicken 

COLD MEATS 

Roast beef 35-60 Chicken 40-75 

Lamb 40-75 Boned game 50-90 

Boned turkey 50-90 Beef tongue 35-6o 

Boneless pig's feet, Vinaigrette 35-60 Turkey 40-75 

Ham 3560 Pate de fois gras 60-1 00 

Pickled lambs' tongues 30-50 

SALADS 
Chicken 40 75 Potato salad 25 



Lobster 40-75 

Shrimp 40-75 

A la Russe 40-75 

Tomato mayonnaise 40 

Celery " 30 



Cucumbers 30 

Lettuce 30 

Chicoree 30 

Asparagus 40 

German asparagus 60-x 00 



The Burnett, Logansport. Ind. : 

Beef bouillon 

Water cress Lettuce Caviar 

Corn meal mush 

Baked salmon, butter sauce 

Baked giblet pie, Maryland 

Breaded veal cutlets, cream sauce 

Corn fritters, rum sauce 
Broiled — Tenderloin steak Sirloin steak 

Lamb chops Kidneys with bacon 

Eggs, as ordered 

Cold — Roast beef Mutton Ox tongue 

Chipped beef Sardines 

Summer sausage 

Salmon salad 

Potatoes — Steamed Domestic fried Shoestring 

Hot rolls Assorted cake Brown bread 

Ice cream 

Cherries in syrup Sliced bananas 

Comb honey 

Griddle cakes, with maple syrup 

Club house coffee Cocoa Tea 



Palace Hotel, Cincinnati: 

Consomme 

Wheat flakes or rolled oats with cream 

Fish — Broiled lake fish Fried catfish steak 

Cold Meats — Ox tongue Ham Roast beef 

Lamb Bologna Veal 

Sliced tomatoes Potato salad Chow chow 

Broiled — Sirloin or tenderloin steak, plain 

or with fresh mushroom sauce 

Bacon Pork chops Ham 

Dried beef in cream 

Lamb tongue, au Risoto 

Fried hominy 

Eggs, to order 

Omelettes plain with ham or tomatoes 

Potatoes — baked hashed brown Saratoga 

Breads — Hot biscuits Boston buns Ginger bread 

Graham bread Rye bread 

Wheat cakes Toast to order Corn cakes 

Rock candy drips Honey Assorted cake 

Soda wafereties Graham wafers 

Fruit — Baked apples Apricots 

Coffee Tea Chocolate Butter milk 



44 



THE PRACTICAL HOI EL STEWARD. 



Burnet Hou:e. Cincinnati: 

Little neck clams 

Consomme in cups 

Cracked wheat Mush and milk 

Broiled lake trout, maitre d'hotel 

Radishes Cucumbers 

Prime roast beef, au jus 

California grass birds, on toast 

German fritter, with stewed prunes 
Boiled rice Baked tomatoes 

Broiled sirloin oi tenderloin steak, plain or Creole 
Mutton chops, plain or breaded, with peas 

Welsh rabbit, or golden buck 

POTATOES— Baked Hashed in cream 

Lyonnaise Fried sweet French fried 

Eggs to order 

Omelette, plain, with ham or cheese 

COLD — Ox tongue Ham Lamb Corned beef 

Pork and beans Sardines Pickled herring 

Mayonnaise of chicken 

Rye and graham bread French rolls 

Tea biscuit Wheat cakes Corn cakes 

Ginger snaps Assorted cake Stewed pears 

Coffee ice cream Sliced peaches, with cream 

Pineapple preserves 

Tea Coffee Chocolate Cocoa Buttermilk 

TEA. 

Is a light evening meal — lighter than the regulation 
supper — and usually consisting of 

Tea, coffee or chocolate 

Dry, milk or cream toast 

Tea biscuits — wafers 

Cold meats, or sandwiches 

Salads 

Breads, cakes and conserves 
Tea is generally served on Sundays and holidays, 
when a specially appetizing midday dinner having 
been partaken of, a light meal is all that is necessary- 
It makes it convenient, also, to relieve a number of 
the help after dinner. 

BUFFET LUNCHEONS. 

The meaning of the word Buffet is a sideboard. 
As applied in connection with the above it is one 
or more large tables, upon which everything that is 
on the menu (which is intended merely as sou'-enier) 
is placed on the table before the arrival of the 
guests. There are no chairs, everybody stands and 
each one either helps himself or is served by the 
waiter, with what he chooses on a small plate with 
fork. They are always informal affairs and are much 
enjoyed by the participants. 

The following menus will illustrate: 

Grilled sardines Anchovy toast 

Mardadella sausage 
Celery Olives farcie Radishes 

Ham, goose breast, chicken 

and Swiss cheese sandwiches 
Lobster salad Lettuce salad Potato salad 
Salmon Mayonnaise Pate de foie gras 



Eggs a la bonne femme 

Punch curacoa 

Chaud froid de cailles Galantine de dinde 

Assorted cakes Tutti frutti ice cream 

Fruit 

Edam cheese Crackers 

Coffee 

Luncheon given to The Hotel Men s Mutual Benefit 

Association, by Detroit Hotel Men s Association at the 

Old Club, St. Clair Flats. Michigan. May ir, i8g2: 

Ham and chicken sandwiches 

Cold turkey Beef tongue Chipped beef 

Stuffed eggs, a la St. James 

Chicken salad Potato salad Lobster salad 

Queen olives Sweet pickles Radishes 

Punch Oriental 

Strawberries and sweet cream 

Neapolitan ice cream 

Assorted cakes Fruits 

American cheese Swiss cheese 

Crackers 

Tea Coffee 

Soothers for the Troubled Spirits of Ye Landlords, Ye Ladies, 

and the Strangers within Our Gates. 

To the H. M. M. B. A. at the Copley Square Hotel, 
Boston: 

CHAUD 

Bouillon de lucines, en tasse 

Croquettes de grenouilles, Parisienne 

Ris de veau, Coquillot 

FROID 

Saumon, decoree 

Galantine dechapon. d'Orleans 

Pigeonneaux en bastion, Semonier 

Jambon, gatti 

Langue de boeuf, Rocheford 

Aspic de homard 

Mayonnaise de volaitle 

Salade epicurienne 

Sandwich assortis 

ENTREMETS SUCRES 

Fruits glace de saison 

Charlottes, aux noisettes 

Petits fours 

Cafe noir 

G. H. Mumm's extra dry Copley Square punch 

Poland Spring water Cigars 

A cold luncheon served at the opening of the new Hotel 
Burlington, at Boscombe, Bournemouth, England: 

Swanage prawns 

Filet de sole en aspic 

Mayonnaise de Homard a la Burlington 

Saumon a la Christchurch 

Saumon a la Montpelier 

Pain de Volaille a la Mosaique 

Chaud-froid de Cailles 

Chaud-froid de Cotelettes d'Agneau 

Galantine de Poulard aux truffes 

Chapon a la Bechamel 

Boeuf braise a la Gelee 

Poulet Roti 

Grouse Roti 

Langue de boeuf 

Jambon de York 

Quartier d'Agneau 

Pates de Gibier 

Sandwiches 

ENTREMETS 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 



45 



Trifle 

Petits babas aux Cerises 

Nougats a la Cliantilly 

Meringues a la creme 

Patisseries variees 

Gelee au Vin 

Gelee a la Macedoiric de fruit 

Mousse aux (raises 

Charlotte a la Russe 

Gateau a la Napolitaine 

GLACES 

Vanille Citron Ananas 

DESSERT 
CARTE DE VIN 

Sherry Champagne, 1884 Claret, 1886 

Champagne cup Claret cup Lemonade 

Johannis natural mineral water 

To the H. M. M. B. A. at the Waldorf, New York, 

May i^lh, fSgj: 

CHAUU Gombaut Passe en Tasse 

Croquette Panachee a la Waldorf 

Ris-de-Veau a la Surdez 

Souffle au Fromage 

Brissotin de Volaille Fantaisie 

FROID Consomme en Gelee 

Crabes a la Diable 

Pigeonneau de Philadelphie 

Timbale de pate de foie gras 

Mayonnaise de volaille 

Salad de homard 

Sandwich de Crabes Mous 

Sandwich assortis 

ENTREMETS SUCRES 

Glaces fruits varies 

Biscuit Bellevue 

Petits fours 

The glace 

Cafe frappe 

A buffet luncheon served January ig, iSgj, at the 

Chicago Athletic Club, from 7 P. M. to 12 P. M. : 

Bouillon in cups 

Celery Pickles Olives 

Oyster patties, Romaine 

Sandwiches 

Ham Tongue Turkey Sardine 

Cold meats Salads 

Turkey Ham Shrimp Potato 

Lamb tongue Chicken 

PIECES MONTEES 

Pate of game a la Diana Dindonneau 

Ham decore a la Gatti 

Galantine de Cochon de Lait en daube 

Boned turkey a la Berger 

Frozen cream sherbet Assorted cake 

Cheese and toasted crackers 

Cafe 

Buffet lunch served at the Union League Club, Brook- 
lyn, N. Y. The occasion being the ladies' annual 
reception : 

SERVICE CHAUD 

Consomme en tasse Clam broth 

Bouchees aux champignons frais 

Homard a la Columbus 

Croquettes de ris de veau a la Princesse 

Cafe Chocolate 

SERVICE FROID 

Celery Olives 



Saumon a I'avelane Filet de boeuf a la Russe 

Jambon truffe a la florian 

Langues de boeuf Rocheford 
Ballotines de poulets en chaudfroid 

Timbales de foie-gras en bellevue 

Galantines de dinde a la Elizabeth 

Pates de perdreaux a la U. L. C. 

Mayonnaise de volaille Salade de homard 

Rillettes Sandwiches assortis 

Entremets de douceur 

Paniers de nougat garnis de fruits 

Charlottes fontanges 

Gelees Moscovite Glace histone 

Sorbet fin de siecle 

Petits fours Bon bons 

Mottoes Fruit 

Champagne 

These luncheons afford skilled cooks an oppor- 
tunity to show their ability, as everything is set on 
the table in large dishes, ornamented. 

BANQUETS. 

A banquet is a repast or a rich entertainment 
given in honor of some memorable event or celebra- 
tion, usually attended with formality, all participants 
attending in proper dress for the occasion. During 
the meai the guests are entertained with music, 
afterwards suitable toasts, speeches, etc., which 
complete the feast. 

The menu consits of a full hot meal, like a table 
d'hote dinner, served in courses, usually accom- 
panied with wines. 

In some instances the price of the repast for each 
plate includes the wine, music and flowers ; in others 
the wine and flowers without the music, but in the 
majority of cases the caterer serves the meal only, 
for a price, and receives extra pay for wines, flowers 
and music. Sometimes the host provides his own 
flowers and music. 

Banquets are served in two different styles. The 
French service (a la Francaise) and the Russian ser- 
vice (a la Russe). 

The French service is not popular. Occasionally 
small parties not to exceed ten or twelve are served 
in this manner. Artistic chefs prefer it as it gives 
them an opportunity to show their skill to better 
advantage, everything being served on large (usually) 
decorated dishes in the most attractive manner, 
each dish containing as many orders as there are 
guests to be served by one waiter, who passes the 
dish around to the guests, helping them to their por- 
tion. The time required to serve a banquet in this 
style is necessarily slow and it requires thoroughly 
trained waiters to avoid any mishaps. Waiters in 
this country who understand this service are not 
plentiful, which may account for the French service 
being less in demand. 



46 THE PRACTICAL HOI EL STEWARD. 

The Russian service is the most satisfactory; it is Many a cook in a country hotel can not be beaten 

simpler and much quicker. All meats, pastry and for plain and palatable cooking, but he is not well 

dessert are prepared in single portions nicely gar- posted on fancy dishes. Where such is the case 

nished and ready for the guest to eat. It is different only such dishes which he is familiar with should 

from the French style, as in this case the cooks and be placed on the menu, and no others. 

waiters do all the work for the guests; they are Locality and season often have a great deal to do 

•served with just about the size order desired and with the cost of a banquet, one may be served with 

in a much more appetizing way than if they were profit in one section at two dollars while money 

obliged to help themselves. would be lost at three dollars in another section for 

Where there is a well conducted kitchen and pro- the same banquet, 

perly drilled waiters the various courses are set The price of labor, rent and the products of the 

before the guest almost within' a minute of the time land are all factors to be considered, 

that they are taken from the range or pantry. To Last, when fine china, cut glass, silvers, etc., are 

serve the hot dishes steaming hot, and cold dishes to be used, the risk of breakage in tlie use of them 

with a fresh and cool appearance is a very import- must also be considered. 

ant feature. The steward should always know within a few 

The steward's generalship comes to good use in dollars how much it will cost the house to serve a 

the serving of parties; on him really depends the banquet after the menu is decided upon, 

success of the affair. If he is a man who becomes When a banquet is to be served the headwaiter 

rattled he is in danger of confusing everybody else, should be notified in time, that he may have the 

It devolves on him to see that every course, from room put in order and the tables arranged to suit 

oysters to coffee, are served in regular order, and the occasion, and that the waiters best suited for 

to keep harmony among the help during the service, the work are selected and given an extra drilling. 

He should see before the time comes that every- allowing one waiter to five, six or eight guests, ac- 

thing needed is on hand and ready. cording to the quality of service required. They 

The steward can avoid a good deal of confusion should be properly dressed "black full dress suit, 

by announcing what course to be served (to the ones white tie and no jewelry displayed. Where only 

who are to dish up) just at the right moment; it girls are available they should wear a plain white 

sometimes corrects an error in time. dress, neatly done with white linen collars and cuffs 

In preparing and estimating on the price of a ban- — no lace or frills of any kind should be allowed, 

quet the following should be taken into considera A table set with linens of fine texture, perfectly 

tion. laundried, cut glass, silver and fine decorated china 

The number of covers. needs but few ferns, smilax and flowers to look rich 

The class of people. and beautiful. The floral decorations are usually 

The skill of the cooks at the caterer's command. attended to by a florist, who makes a study of such 

' ^' work; but in his absence it devolves upon the stew- 
ard to see that it is done properly. The setting of 

The quality of the table ware to be used on the 

the table depends on what there is to work with, 
occasion. 

T ., c .L 1 XL ... r r J- r u The best appearance possible should be made with 

In the first place the cost of feeding of a number ^*^ ^ 

ofpeoplereducescorrespondingly as the number of ^^hat there is on hand. The table should not be 

guests increases, therefore, when a banquet for overcrowded with dishes and stands which are of 

twenty-five covers is ordered the material used no service. 

should be less expensive than if one-hundred are to There should be no announcements or advertise- 

be fed at the same price. And when a banquet is ^^^^^ ^f ^^y ^-^^^ ^^ jj^g ^gnu such as appertaining 

intended for men who are accustomed to work in , i-i. r » i j r <• j * 

to quality of water, brands of food, etc. 

fresh air, such as the Brotherhood of Locomotive , . , ,,,.,,, 

For ideas in setting a banquet table, I will take 
Engineers, for instance, the repast should consist of 

, . , , , r , for illustration an article on this subject printed in 
food of a more substantial nature than if the same 

. f , ... ..I 1 ». the Hotel Monthly of September 1894, which at- 

is for a bar or press association, as the latter are ^ ^^ 

usually men leading sedentary lives, have a more tracted much favorable comment at the time, the 

delicate appetite, and their food should be more men who contributed the ideas being all well known 

daintily prepared. in the catering world. 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 



47 



IDEAS IN SETTING A BANQUET TABLE. 

A Pictorial Expression of the Art of Banquet Catering 

by Several Gentlemen Prominent in tlie Hotel, 

Restaurant and Club W or Id. 

The editor conceived the idea of securing the 

opinions of a number of gentlemen prominent in the 

hotel, restaurant and club world as to how a banquet 

table should be laid — the best disposition of the 

silver, china, glassware, etc., around each plate 

before the guest takes his seat. 

» * 
Our plan was to give a (suppositious) banquet — the 

regulation banquet. Covers for twelve. Three 

kinds of wine to be served, and one waiter to every 

four guests. The question put was substantially as 

follows: "In laying the table for this banquet what 

in your opinion is the best disposition of the silver, 

china and glassware, the bread, butter, salt, pepper, 

relishes, napkin, etc. , etc ; also the quantity and kind 

of knives, forks, spoons, glasses, etc., that should be 

placed around the plate before the guesc takes his 

seat, and should oysters be on the table?" 

In our interviews with the gentlemen called upon 
we caught some of them in their "busy" hours, and 
so, consequently, the sketch of "how they would 
have it," which is presented on the pictured table 
accompanying this article, (see plate four) and 
which illustrates their different ideas, might be 
revised somewhat. Many of the sketches were 
made upon the instant and in a crude manner, but 
nevertheless they each and all of them command 
respectful consideration. 

"a" in large diagram indicates centerpieces. 
GEO. FULWELL. 

Geo. Fulwell, steward The Bates. Indianapolij. 

[Mr. Fulwell, in the drawing accompanying his let- 
ter, has arranged a table for twelve persons — six 
ladies and six gentlemen- Banquet given by a gen- 
tleman. Host sits at end of table. A setting from 
this table is also shown on the large illustration pre- 
seniing twelve different arrangements.] 
MENU. 
Little neck clams 

MONTRACHET, 1878 

Anchovies 



Radishes 



Cucumbers 



Salted almonds 
Celery 

Consomme. Rachel 

Fillets of Pompano, Venitienne 



Olives 



Potatoes Farcies, Regente 



Braised sweetbreads, Pique, Montglas 
French peas in cases 

CHATEAU LAFITE, 1869 
ORANGE ICE 

Roast young grouse, currant jelly 
Tomato and lettuce salad 

MOET & CHANDON, WHITE SEAL 

Charlotte Russe 

Strawberry ice cream in forms Assorted cake 

Stilton cheese 

Fruit 

Coffee 

The menu and diagram of decorations for the table 
I send you are for a moderate priced banquet. The 
prevailing style now is to decorate the table with 
flowers, smilax. plants, ferns, fruit, etc. The elabo- 
raiepieccs montees. that the chefs took da3s and weeks 
to prepare and were so much admired by the guests 
are now out of fashion and seldom seen on a banquet 
table. So otlier artists have been lirought into play, 
who have artistic taste for arranging bouquets and 



pyramids of flowers, displaying fern leaves in beauti- 
ful designs and building pyramids of various kinds 
of fruits, and systematically placing the hors d'oeu- 
vre dishes so that they will do their part in beauti- 
fying the dinner tabic Attention should be given to 
the temperature of the dining room, which should be 
about 65 to 70 degrees. The table should be at least 




KEY TO Mr. FULLWELL'S TABLE. 



1 Br°ad 

2 Napkin 

3 K'sli fork and entree fork 

4 Butter knife, entree knife 

and soup spoon 

5 Oyster fork 

ti Salt and pepper 

7 Butter 

8 Bone dish 

9 Bouquet 



10 Menu card 

11 Burgundy glass 

12 Claret glass 

18 Champagne glass 
14 Water glass 
1,'> Hors d'oeuvre 
IB Uadisbes 

17 Olives 

18 Anchovies 

rj Salted almonds 20 Celery 



48 



THE PRACTICAL HOI EL STEWARD. 



ten feet long by four feet wide to give the guests 
plenty of room. The napery should be snow white 
and folded true in the laundry; that is, the crease in 
the table cloth should be exactly in the centre and 
the napkins ironed straight, so that the waiters can 
fold them true. Fancy folds are now out of fashion. 
The glassware should be cut and engraved, a com- 
plete set including the water glass. 

I will now explain as clearly as possible how I 
would proceed with the service of your banquet. A 
headwaiter and three waiters would be necessary. 
For the headwaiter I would select the largest and 
finest looking man in the dining room. The three 
waiters would be picked out all of even size; (if 
colored men all of the same shade of color.) Their 
dress would be black cloth, swallow tailed coats, 
white low cut vests, turn down collars; white string 
ties, tied in a bow, (except the headwaiter who would 
wear black); white linen gloves and no jewelry ex- 
posed, or handkerchief. 

There is as much system in serving a banquet as 
there is running a rail-road or in any other business 

The most satisfactory way to serve a banquet is 
the Russian style; that is, to have all the joints, etc., 
carved in the kitchen and the individual portion ar 
ranged on the plates for each cover. As you will 
notice, I prefaced the dinner with little neck clams; 
this I would serve on soup plates filled with shaved 
ice, with dinner plate underneath, White Burgundy 
would be served with this course. Care should be 
taken to have the wine at the right temperature. It 
is not considered good form to fill the glasses more 
than three parts full. The hors d'oeuvres are placed 
on the table and passed to each guest between the ^u^' O"" anything distinct from the regular meals, 
first four courses. Now comes the soup, which would such as when an announcement of the occasion is 



the cheese and nibbling the crackers, the waiters 
would prepare the finger bowls, filling them half full 
of luke warm water, slightly perfumed with a slice 
of lemon in each bowl. Stand bowl in small plate 
with napkin underneath. It is now time to remove 
the cheese plates and give to each guest a dessert 
plate and finger bowl, before handing around the 
fruit. The dessert course over with, the black coffee 
will be served in small cups. That ends the dinner. 
On account of ladies being present no cognac or 
cigars will be passed. 

THE MENU. 

The word menu in French means something small 
(as of small in size or dimensions). 

Menu d' un repas means a bill of fare. The words 
"d'un repas" are unnecessary, from the fact that the 
repast is announced on the card, which sufficiently 
explains it. 

Technically the word "menu" means any kind of 
a bill of fare and can be used vhere the French ex- 
pression is preferred to the English as Breakfast 
menu. Luncheon menu. Supper menu, etc. But the 
word as adopted in the English is popularly under- 
stood to mean a limited, choicely selected meal, as 
for a table d'hote dinner, a banquet, etc. 

The word "menu" is most appropriate for a ban- 



be served in the regular soup plate with dinner plate 
underneath. 

Never remove any of the plates while some of the 
guests are still eating. 

This course is removed by the fish, which is ac- 
companied by dressed cucumbers in a separate dish 
and placed in front of the hors d'oeuvre plate, which 
remains on the table during the first four courses. 
After this course, sweetbreads would be served, com 
plimented with Chateau Lafite 

Next course would be the ice, served in an orange 
with the inside scooped out, placed on a cold plate 
with fancy fringed doily. While the guests are en- 
joying the ice the Burgundy and claret glasses would 
be removed whether empty or full. Now comes the 
game, "the piece de resistence," which is accom- 
panied by currant jelly and salad. The currant 
jelly is passed to each guest by the waiter in a glass 
dish. The salad plate occupies the position on the 
table held by the hors d'oeuvre plate, which was 
taken away with the Burgundy and claret glasses. 
A relay of silver would be placed on the table for 
this course. The champagne, which is served with 
this cover, must be as cold as possible without freez- 
ing. Don't put ice in the wine, it ruins its flavor. 
When this course is finished all side dishes, plates 
silverware, cruets, in fact everything but the fruit, 
flowers, water and champagne would be removed 
from the table, and table brushed off with a crumb 
brush, before placing dessert spoons and fruit knives 
at each cover. The Charlotte Russe like the ice 
cream would be served on cold plates with fancy lace 
paper underneath. Baskets of assorted cakes would 
be handed with the ice cream. This course finished, 
the cheese with toasted hard crackers would be pas- 
sed to each guest. While the guests were tasting 



made on the card as "Sixth Annual Banquet of the 
Hamilton Club," "The Sixteenth Annual Dinner of 
the H. M. M. B. A.," "Farewell Luncheon in nonor 
of James Blank by his Friends," etc. 

On regular bills of the day it should be "Table 
D'Hote Dinner at the Auditorium" or "Dinner at 
Kinsley's" or "Breakfast The Southern Hotel." An 
announcement something in the nature of the above 
should' always be made to distinguish the repast 
from those given at the other intervals of the day, 
which the term "menu" fails to do. 

The arrangement of the menu is like a table d'hote 
dinner excepting that the entrees are usually placed 
above the roast (French fashion,) and some approp- 
riate vegetable accompanying the meat dishes about 
as follows : 

I course — oysters or clams. 
,, _ ( soup. 

] relishes (hors d'oeuvres). 

3 " — I fish with I fancy potato. 

4 " — I entree dainty such as pattie of terrapin 

etc. 

5 " — I roast or heavy entree such as sweet- 

breads or cutlets, chops, etc. 

6 " — I punch (sorbet). 

7 " — I game or broiled young fowl, etc. 

8 " — I salad, dressed lettuce etc. 

9 " — dessert, 
lo " — coffee. 



\ THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 49 

Or a cheaper one as follows: shell of butter. To serve an extra plate under the 

I course— I hors doeuvres (relish). one containing the food saves the linens from soil- 

( I soup. . J.J,., r ,. 

— 1 ^ relishes '"^ ^ adds to the appearance of the service. 

— I fish with fancy potato. The men serving the wine (about one to every 

— I entree. twenty guests) should not be the regular table wait- 

— I punch (sorbet). ^^^ When removing the wines they should pour 
— I game roast. 

, .„,„ J the residue of the glasses in pitchers which can be 

dessert. saved and for which there is a possible use. If the 

— coffee. help is permitted to empty the glasses as they go to 

The following specimen menus are arranged in the pantry there may be disagreeable results, which 

accordance with the foregoing, the first represent- it may take several days to overcome. 

ing a high class banquet such as would be given at The following specimens of banquet and luncheon 

a hotel men's convention; the second is cheaper, menus include a number of annual banquets given 

consisting of one less course, the material Jis' less by the Hotel Men's Mutual Benefit Association. I 

expensive and the wines are of a cheaper grade. do not submit these latter as models (though the 

Menu No 1 majority of them are), but as an interesting feature 

„, . , to many old hotel men who had the pleasure to 
Bluepoints 

sTEiNBERGER CABINET partake of them. They are served at $5 per cover 

Clear green turtle including wines. 

ROYAL RESERVE _, . ... ^, . 

„ ,, ,^. „. The other menus will appear on thsir merits as 
Small patties, Financiere 

Stuffed olives Salted nuts models of well arranged specimens. 

Planked shad [^In an article on wines which will appear later, 

Cucumbers Saratoga chips , , . , j , • ,. .. 

RARSAr 8 8 the subject of serving and placing them on the menu 

Diamond back terrapin, Maryland will be discussed.] 

Lamb chops, Princesse T^zW/ banquet of the Hotel Men's Mutual Benefit Asso- 

Green peas ciation of the United States and Canada at the Tremont 

CHATEAU LAFITE 1874 House, Chicago, January 20. 1880: 

BENEDICTINE PUNCH gluC pointS On Shell 

Broiled Philadelphia squab sauterne, compliments of John A. Rice 

Asparagus Hollandaise Green turtle soup Chicken a la Royal 

Dressed lettuce Celery salad Small patties a la Financiere 

L. ROEDERER BRUT Broiled whitefish with small potatoes 

Neapolitan ice cream Assorted cake claret, compliments of Alvin Hubbert 

Strawberries pile^ ^j ^eef, larded, with mushrooms 

Roquefort cheese Crackers Asparagus Potatoes a la Suisse 

^""^ ^ COGNAC Calf's sweetbreads, pique with French peas 

Mpnu No 2 Cutlets of partridge, truffle sauce 

CHAMPAGNE, compHments of Scott & Rice 

Caviar on toast Roman punch 

Consomme Princesse Saddle of Venison, Marinee larded a la Brioche 

VINO DE PASTO Baked mashed potatoes Green peas 

Stuffed olives Salted nuts Tomatoes champagne, compliments Chicago members 

Broiled Spanish mackerel, steward sauce Roast quail on toast, jelly 

Potatoes Duchess Saratoga potatoes 

HAUT SAUTERNE Boned turkey Chicken salad Pate of liver 

Sweetbread patties, Financiere Assorted cake Neapolitan ice cream 

Green peas pontet CANET Charlotte Russe 

KIRSCHWASSER PUNCH Roquefort cheese Edam cheese 

Broiled spring chicken on toast Fruit Coffee Cigars 

Lettuce 

POMMERY AND GRENO SEC ^- ^' ^' ^' ^' ^^'^1^'^^ ^^ ^^^ Metropolitan Hotel, 

Ice cream in forms ^^ ^'"''^' J^»"ary 19, 1881: 

Cake Fruit Huitres chablis 

Brie cheese Crackers Tortue Verte a I'Anglaise 

Coffee LIQUEURS POTAGES Amontillado 

In serving oysters or clams I would place them on ^^^"^^ ^^ "'^'"i aux croutons souffles 

Varies Varies 

shaved ice in a small deep plate. Never put ice jjoRS DOEUVRES 

over them, it spoils the flavor. All relishes such as Petits Bouchees a la puree Faisan 

olives, salted nuts, sliced tomatoes, celery, etc., aux truffe Perigord 

Bass rayee au gratin a la Chambord 

should be nicely arranged on the table just before poiSSON ruedesheimer 

the guests are seated; also rolls, bread and one Pommes de terre a la Duchesse 



so 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 



RELEVE Filet de boeuf pique a la Godard Dressed lettuce Water cresses 

CHATEAU BOUILLAC DESSERT ROMANEE 

Poitrine de Dindonneau Farcie a I'lmperatrice Assorted cake Macaroons 

ENTREES CHAMPAGNE Champagne jelly Fruit ices Frozen pudding 



Croquettes de ris de veau aux champignons 

Galantine de poularde en Bellevue 

Pate de Strasbourg a la moderne 

FROID Voliere de Cailles a la forrestierre 

Salade de volaille a la Russe 

Mayonnaise de crevettes en aspic a la Ristoria 

SORBET A LA CARDINAL 

ROTI Selle de mouton a la gelee de groseille 

CHAMBERTIN 

Perdreau barde sur canape au cresson 
GIBIER 

Coeur de laitue Salade de celeri 

Petits pois a la Francaise 
ENTREMETS 

Asperges en branches Epinards au jus 

Haricots verts saute au beurre 

Charlotte Russe a la vanille decoree 

Gelee au champagne, petits fours 

LIQUEURS DIVERS 

SUCRES 

Glace Napolitaine en pyramide 

Pieces montees F'ruites et dessert 

Fromage Cafe Cigars 

H. M. M. B. A. banquet at the Burnet House, Cincin' 
tiati, January ij , 1882: 

Oysters on half shell 
Green turtle soup 

SHERRY 

Boiled Kennebec salmon 
Mashed potatoes. Burnet House fashion 

SAUTERNE 

Baked]sweetbreads with French peas 

CLARET 

Tenderloin of beef with mushrooms 

CHAMPAGNE 

Roast quail 

Baked mashed sweet potatoes 

Cold boiled lobster Shrimp salad 

Turkey salad 

Ice cream Assorted cake Fruits 

Cheese Crackers Coffee 

Cigars 

H. M. M. B. A. banquet at the Brunswick, Boston, 
May 8. i88j: 

Little neck clams 

HAUT SAUTERNE 

SOUP 
Cream of Asparagus 

AMONTILLADO 

FISH 

Baked Penobscot salmon, Genoese sauce 

Cucumbers Bermuda potatoes Sliced tomatoes 

REMOVES HOCKHEIMER 

Boiled Philadelphia capon, Estragon sauce 

Roast spring lamb, mint sauce 

Asparagus tips Rice String beans 

ENTREES CHAMPAGNE 

Tenderloin of beef, truffle sauce 

Sweetbread patties, Parisian style 

Chicken croquettes New peas 

MAYONNAISE pontet canet 
Lobster Chicken Shrimp 

ROMAN PUNCH 

GAME 
Broiled snipe on toast, Colbert sauce 



Apples Oranges Bananas 

Malaga grapes Strawberries 

Coffee 

H. M. M. B. A. banquet at the Lindell Hotel, St 
Louis, May ij, 1884: 

Little neck clams 

HAUTE SAUTERNE 

Consomme Colbert 
Timbale of fowl 

Cucumber salad Amontillado 

Columbia River salmon HoUandaise 

Potato croquettes 

Sweetbreads larded 

Green peas Asparagus 

PONTET CANET 

Broiled spring chickeni 
String beans Caulflower 

PUNCH imperial 

Roast snipe 
Dressed lettuce Water cress 

VEUVE CLIQUOT 

Charlotte Russe Champagne jelly 

Assorted cake Confectionery 

Tutti frutti ice cream 

Fruits Strawberries Bon bons 

Fromage de Brie 

Cognac Coffee Chartreuse 

H. M. M. B. A. banquet at the Grand Pacific Hotel, 
Chicago, May X2, 188^: 

Little neck clams 
Chicken bouillon 

CHATEAU YQUEM 

Cutlet of whitefish — larded — mushrooms 
New potatoes String beans 

mumm's extra dry 
Breast of spring chicken 
Asparagus 
Sweetbreads pique — green peas 

Rice croquettes — Claret sauce 
champagne sorbet 
Broiled snipe — dressed lettuce 

chateau la rose 

Fancy cakes Omelet soufflee 

Tutti frutti Confectionery 

Strawberries 

Fruit Coffee 

Roquefort 

H. M. M. B. A. banquet at the Metropolitan Hotel, 
New York, May 11, 1886: 

Little neck clams 

haute SAUTERNE 

Green turtle clear Cream of asparagus 

AMONTILLADO 

Small patties a la Renaissance 
Radishes Olives 

STEINBERGER 

Baked striped bass a la Chambord 
Cucumbers Potatoes Parisienne 

CHATEAU LA ROSE 

Filet of beef pique, Prince Carl 

Potatoes a ia Dauphine 

Capon stuffed a la Ambassadrice 

String beans 



Little neck clams 

HAUT SAUTERNE 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 51 

Sweetbreads in cases, Lavalliere Charlotte Russe 

Green peas Fruit 

Squabs braise a la Rothschild liquors , . . 

^ . . •.. „i J „„„c Roquefort and American cheese 

Spinach with poached eggs ' 

CHAMPAGNE 

KIRSH PUNCH ^ 1/ 1/ ^ ^ banquet at the Palmer House, Chicago, 

Saddle of spring lamb mint sauce ^.j^y j ^ jSSg: 

Asparagus Hoilandaise Little neck clams 

CHAMBKRTIN AMONTILLADO 

English snipe on toast water cress Consomme Royal 

Lettuce Small patties of chicken 

Charlotte Russe a la Chantilly Pompano 

LIQUORS Sliced cucumbers Curled potatoes chablis 

Assorted cake Mottoes Tenderloin of beef with truffles 

Ice cream in forms Jelly Macedoine pontet canet 

Dessert Divers Sweetbreads 

Fruit Cheese Coffee Green peas 

Cigars Siberian punch 

cigarettes 

H. M. M. B. A. banquet at VVillard's Hotel, Wash- Broiled plover on toast 

ittpton, D. C, May 10, 1887: Lettuce salad Saratoga chips moet & chandon 

(white seal) 
Assorted cake Bisque glace 

SOUP Green turtle Printaniere Royale Crackers ^ '"" Roquefort cheese 

AMONTILLADO ^^^^^ g^^^^^ 

FISH Potomac striped bass.JHollandaise sauce cigars 

Sliced tomatoes Potatoes Julienne 

Cucumbers ^- ■'^^- ''^- ^- '*^- f''""]"'^^ ''^ ^^"^ Hollenden, Cleveland, 

JOHANNISBERGER Ohio, May 12, l8gi : 

REMOVES Philadelphia capon, Estragon sauce sauterns Blue points 

Bermuda potatoes Asparagus Olives Celery 

Tendeiloin of beef, mushroom sauce Amontillado Consomme Macedoine 

German potatoes String beans Broiled whitefish 

chateau margaux Dressed cucumbers 

ENTREES Potted squab. Jardiniere pontet canet 

Sweetbreads pique, St. Cloud Broiled spring chicken 

Soft shell crabs, Maryland Curled potatoes French peas 

Lobster salad Shrimp salad cigarettes H. M. M. B. A. punch 

champagne JULES MUMM & CO.'S "GRAND SEC." 

maraschino punch Roast plover 

GAME Snipe on toast Colbert sauce Lettuce Fromage de brie 

Dressed lettuce Water cresses moet & chandon, "white seal" 

romanee Neapolitan ice cream 

DESSERT Frozen pudding Champagne jelly Macaroons 

Macaroons Tutti frutti Assorted cake Coffee 

Neapolitan ice cream liqueurs and cigars 

Oranges Malaga grapes Bananas ^ j^ j^j ^ ^ banqueT^he Russell House, Detroit, 

Strawberries with cream ^^^ ^^ ^g^^. 

Roquefort cheese Water crackers ' Little neck clams 

Coffee Caviar sandwiches 

cognac et liqueurs Cream of asparagus 

CIGARS AMONTILLADO 

,, ., .^ „ , ', , , ,, „. Olives Radishes Salted almonds 

H. M. M. B. AJanquet at Monongahela House, Pitts. g^^„ ^^^^.^^^ ^^ chicken 

burgh. May 8, 1888: ^.^^^ ^^ ^3,^^^ ^^^^^ p^^^ 

Little neck clams haut sauterne 

SAUTERNE Dressed cucumbers 

Mock turtle Tenderloin of beef, with truffles 

Kennebec salmon a la Hoilandaise pontet canet 

RHINE WINE Potatoes Hoilandaise Stuffed tomatoes Potato croquettes 

Cucumber Olives ^''^^'^ mushrooms on toast 

Salpicon en Caisse Benedictine punch 

„.,, » r u f /-I cigarettes 

claret ^""^ Champignons ^^^^ ^ chandon Roast quail g. h. mumm's 

Green peas Baked mashed potatoes white seal Sliced potato chips extra dry 



Asparagus 

SORBET A LA MONONGAHELA 



Lettuce salad 
Chartreuse of strawberries 



Roast Jack snipe currant jelly Icecream . ^_^^ Assorted cake 

CHAMPAGNE Lettuce Roquefort '^"' Crackers 

Lobster Mayonnaise cigars cognac 

T utti frutti ice cream Coffee 



52 



THE PRACTICAL HOlEL STEWARD. 



H. M. M. B. A. banquet at the Burnet House, Cincin- 
nati, May 12, J8gj: 

Little neck clams 

Caviar sandwiches 

Clear green turtle soup 

AMONTILLADO 

Broiled Pompano, steward sauce 

Dressed cucumbers Potato croquettes 

Potpouri of chicken with truffles 

HAUTE SAUTERNE 

Larded sweetbreads braise 
French peas 

CHATEAU LA ROSE 
ROMAN PUNCH 
CIGARETTES 

Roast Philadelphia squab on toast 
Asparagus, Hollandaise sauce 

G. H. MUMM'S EXTRA DRY 

Tomatoes, mayonnaise dressing 

Tutti frutti Strawberries 

Assorted cake 

Roquefort Brie Crackers 

CIGARS Coffee COGNAC 1885 

H. M. M. B. A. banquet at the Brown Palace, Denver, 

May 8, 18^4: 

Little neck clams 

HAUTE SAUTERNES 

Consomme Trianon 

Hors d'oeuvres 

Broiled mountain trout, maitre d'hotel 

Potatoes Laurette, cucumbers 

Sweetbreads en casseroles 

CHATEAU PONTET CANET 

Lamb chops, Maison Dore 
Stuffed green peppers 

PUNCH THERMIDOR 

Roast jack snipe 
Lettuce salad 

POMMERY SEC 

Nesselrode ice cream 

Assorted cakes 

Strawberries 

Cheese Coffee 

LIQUEURS CIGARS 

H. M. M. B. A. banquet at Delmonico s , New York, 
May 75, i8g^: 

Clams 

Consomme Plumerey Bisque of lobster 

Brissotins aux Supreme 

Striped bass, Joinville 

Cucumbers 

Saddle of lamb, Victoria 

Tomatoes stuffed with egg plant 

Breast of chicken, Lucuilus 

Peas Parisienne 

Asparagus, cream sauce 

SHERBET TREMIERE 

Squabs, water cress 

Lettuce salad 

Terrine of foie gras jelly 

Crust, pineapple 

Fancy ice cream Fruit Cakes 

Pyramids Coffee 

H. M. M. B. A. batiquet at Hotel del Coronado, San 

Diego, Cal., April 20, 'g6: 

Vermouth cocktails 

California oysters 

Clear green turtle, aux Champagne 

SUNNY SLOPE SHERRY 

Timbales of chicken, a la Talleyrand 
Salted almonds Celery Olives 



Barracouda, a la Hoteliere 
Potato croquettes Cucumbers 

CRESTA BLANCA, HAUTE SAUTERNES 

Larded tenderloin of beef, aux truffes 

Stuffed tomatoes a la Creole 

Sweetbreads in cases a la Conti 

, New peas 

CRESTA BLANCA, MARGAUX 

Asparagus a la Hollandaise 
Roasted squab, barde, with cresses 

G. H. MUMM's EXTRA DRY 

Mayonnaise of fresh shrimps 

Fancy forms ice cream Assorted cake 

Fruit 

Camembert cheese 

Coffee COGNAC 

H. M. M. B. A. banquet at the Vendome, Boston, June 
8, '97: 

Little neck clams 

Clear green turtle 

Cream of fresh mushrooms 

Boiled fresh Penobscot salmon a la Victoria 

Broiled bluefish, sauce Bercy 

Sliced cucumbers New green peas 

Potatoes Sultane 

Spring lamb, Morlaisienne 

Supreme of chicken a la Toulouse 

Fresh asparagus Potato croquettes 

Braised sweetbreads, Berthier 

Soft shell crabs, Remoulade 

FROZEN TOM AND JERRY 

Golden plover sur canape 

Fresh vegetable salad 

Sweets 

Cheese Coffee 

The Lexington, Chicago: 

Huitres 

Salted almonds 

Consomme Printaniere, Colbert 

AMONTILLADO 

Celeri Olivps Farcie 

Poisson de Pompano, Remoulade 

LIEBFRAUMILCH 

Concombres Pommes Hollandaise 

Filet de Boeuf, Pique, Perigord 

Tomato a la Diable 

PONTET CANET 1874 
PUNCH A L'AMBASSADEUR 

Timbale de Dinde, Ecossaise 
Asperges Allemande 

chambertin 1878 
Poitrine de Perdreux, aux Truffes 

moet & chandon imperial brut 
Petits pois Gelee 

salade 
Biscuit glace a la Tosca 
Gateaux Assortis 

Fromage liqueurs 

Cafe 
The Westminster, New York City: 

Oysters on half shell 

AMONTILLADO 

Consomme Chatelaine 

HAUT SAUTERNES 

Baked lobster au gratin, a la creme 
Broiled mushrooms on toast, maitre d'hotel 

CHATEAU BELGRAVE 

Filet of beef larded with truffles 

New potatoes French string beans 

Asparagus 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 



53 



Punch Cardinal 
English snipe on toast 

PERKIER JOUET 

Lettuce salad 
Ice cream Cakes 

LIQUEURS 

Cafe 

A Fellowship Club Dinner at Kinsley' s Chicago: 

Blue points 

Cress Celery 

Cream of Terrapin 

Hors d'oeuvre varies 

Whitefish, au gratin 

HAUT SAUTERNES 1874 

Mangoes Parisienne potatoes 

Filet of turkey with marrons 

CHATEAU LINAS 

Sweet potato Chateau 

CARDINAL PUNCH 

Breast of prairie chicken 
Fried hominy Olives farcies 

G. H. MUMM'S EXTRA DRY 1884 

Asparagus Vinaigrette 
Glaces Cake 

COGNAC 

Cheese Coffee Crackers 

A dinner to Patti at the Auditorium, Chicago: 

Huitres GRAVES 

Consomme a la Caprivi 
Sheepshead a la Provencale 

Pommes Parisienne 

Filet Roti aux Champignons 

Spaghetti a I'ltalienne 

Pommes Dauphine 

PONTET CANET 
PUNCH ADELINA 

Chapon farci aux marrons 
Salade de Laitue 

RUINART BRUT 

Charlotte aux Pommes 

Glaces diplomate 

Fruits Gateaux Cafe 

Loyal Legion dinner at the Kirkivood, Des Moines: 

Consomme in cups 

Celery Radishes 

Oyster patties, sauce Poulette 

Fillet of beef with mushrooms 

Julienne potatoes 

Roast quail au Cresson 

Potato salad French peas 

Neapolitan ice cream 

Macaroons Kisses 

Select fruit 

Coffee 

Commercial Travelers banquet at the Palace, Cin- 
cinnati: 

Oysters on shell 

Cream of fowl 

Pompano, wine sauce 

Celery Hollandaise potatoes 

Patties of sweet breads 

French peas 

Fillet of beef, mushrooms 

Sweet potatoes Asparagus tops 

ROMAN PUNCH 

Roast Golden Plover 

Dressed lettuce Currant jelly 

Ice cream Cake 

Fruit 

Water crackers Cheese 

Coffee 

Cigars 



Trenton House, Trenton, N. J. : 

Little neck clams barsac 

Consomme Royale 

Planked shad viN DE pasto 

Cucumbers Potato balls 

Broiled spring chicken mumm's 

Bermuda potatoes New peas extra dry 

Fresh asparagus 

Roast English snipe 

Tomato salad Crackers and cheese 

Strawberries 

Vanilla and strawberry ice cream 

cordials 
Cakes 

Coffee cigars 

Kinsley s Chicago: 

Blue points 
Celery 
Clear green turtle 
Planked whitefish 

Parisienne potatoes 

Chicken croquettes 

French peas 

Fillet of beef, a la Cheron 

Baked tomatoes Browned potatoes 

FELLOWSHIP PUNCH 

Breast of prairie chicken au Madere 

Lettuce and chicoree 

Ice cream Cake 

Crackers Cheese Coffee 

Cigars Cognac 

The New York Hotel Association at Delmonico's: 
Oysters 

SOUPS 

Consomme, Hungarian Clear green turtle 

HORS D'OEUVRE 

Boudins de Becasse, a la Diane 

FISH 

Striped bass, Massena Fried smelts, Remoulade 

REMOVES 

Fillet of beef, stuffed, with sweet peppers 
Rissotto, Piedmontese style 

ENTREES 

Breast of chicken, a la Lorenzo 

French peas, with lettuce 

Sweetbreads a la Montebello 
Celery, Villeroy 
SHERBET, FAVORITE 
Roast red head duck 

FROID 

Aspics de foie-gras Lettuce salad 

SWEETS 

Pears, a la Richelieu 

Pyramids 

Fancy creams Fruit Fancy cakes Dessert 

Coffee 

WINES 

HAUTE SAUTERNE HOCHHEIMER 

SHERRY 

CHAT. DE FEZ BEAUNE 

MOET & CHANDON, WHITE SEAL 

mumm's EXTRA DRY POMMERY SEC 

PERRIER-JOUET, RESERVE DRY 

PIPER HEIDSIECK, BRUT EXTRA 

MONOPOLE CLUB DRY (BRUT) VEUVE CLICQUOT 

RUINART VIN BRUT 

LIQUEURS MINERAL WATER 



54 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

CARVING. reply in the negative. I felt that I lacked the knowl- 

There are a number of culinary works in which the edge of an important branch of the steward's duty, 
subject of carving is scientifically treated for the and made up my mind that I would learn at the first 
purpose of self instruction, giving illustrations and opportunity. Not long after I took a position as a 
comprehensive explanations. While these articles storekeeper in one of the first class hotels, and one 
are all very good and give a man a theory to work of the conditions on going to work was that I be 
by, I do not believe one can learn how to carve in taught to carve. It took me but a short time to be- 
any other way than by actual practice. For in carv- come fairly proficient with the knife and fork, and 
ing, as well as in a regular profession where skill now I would not be without this knowledge for 
and dexterity of the hands is required, theory is of anything. 

some value, of course, but practice is the only way A good carver can easily more than doubly save 

to learn and to become proficient. his wages for the house he works in. Not only this, 

The question whether a steward should know how but on the manner in which he serves depends, to a 

to carve can be answered only by saying, yes. He great extent, the reputation of the hotel's table. For 

should not only know how to carve but should be an no matter how well a cook may prepare the food, if 

expert, and, as I have said in a previous article, be it is slovenly served the best effects are lost to the 

proud of the accomplishment. partaker. A dish is always complimented when 

Jessup Whitehead, in The Steward's Hand Book, nicely served. A roast when mutilated in carving 

says, "All stewards are agreed that it is their duty has not only a tendency to disgust a sensitive appe- 

to carve," and surely we must all admit that it is an tite, but it proves expensive and wasteful, 
accomplishment of a gentleman. A good carver tries to give the best possible ap- 

The art belongs to the host or landlord, to the pearance to the dishes he serves. In this way he 

giver of entertainments, and it belongs to the man pleases both the guest and the house because his 

of fashion as well. It is only a modern custom which work will result economically. 

has arisen with the system of feeding large numbers One of the most important points in carving is in 

of people at one meal, which has made it necessary knowing how to keep the knife in good condition, 

to adopt the more expedient and economical method No body can carve with a dull knife. Before the 

of carving the roast in the serving room and serve hour for work arrives, the knives used for this work 

to the guest in proper portion, instead of placing should be inspected, and sharpened if necessary, 

the whole roast on the table and the host doing the The roast beef knife, for which I prefer the English 

carving. slicer, (it has a thin blade about sixteen or eighteen 

It not very seldom happens now that a guest, wish- inches long; I consider sixteen inches long enough.) 

ing to entertain friends at dinner, requests the When thin and flexible, as it should be, and of 

steward to send in a whole turkey, duck, chicken proper temper, it seldom requires a grindstone, a 

or even a two or three ribbed roast of beef, as he good oil stone being sufficient. But when the edge 

wishes to do the carving himself. becomes too thick and grinding is necessary, then 

It is evident then, that the steward in carving is see that the grindstone is evenly balanced and that 
filling a place of honor. He in that capacity fills the it has an even face. Hold the blade flat against 
office which was formerly held by the landlord at the stone, drawing it very slowly across the face 
the table. from one end to the other. Then turn over and re- 
Murrey, in the preface to his book on Carving, peat the same on the other side; continue this until 
says, "From my earliest recollections I was taught evenly sharpened. This work can not be hurried, 
that a thorough knowledge of carving was an im- in an effort to do so the knife will be spoilt. After 
portant part of my education." Applying it not the knife is sufficiently sharpened, take an oil stone 
only as I take it, to stewards, but to men of all posi- and smooth the edges. This makes it stand much 
tions in life. better than if the steel is used at once. When used 

When I first came to the city looking for a position for nothing but for roast beef, it will remain in good 
as steward, I went to the office of the most prominent condition for a long time, with an occassional use of 
hotel journal and placed an advertisement for such the steel. For poultry and game the Sabatier. or 
a position. The first question that was asked of me the French style carver is most serviceable, and will 
by the managing editor, I believe, was, "Can you withstand the bones better than the slicer. There 
carve? if so, I know of a man who wants an inside should also be a trimming knife to use for the pur- 
steward who can carve." As I could not I had to pose of cutting off the crispy parts of the beef, and 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 55 

which can also be used in dissecting lamb, suckling But where the whole leg is roasted, begin by cutting 

pig, turkey, etc. The other tools are a steel and a slices from the thick or hip end across grain, using 

good fork. Thus equipped the steward is ready for the fork with your left hand as a stay, giving each 

work, for which he wears a white bib apron reach- portion a slice from the haunch and a small piece 

ing to his shoe tops, and has at hand several clean from the fore side of the leg. In this way the more 

side towels desirable as well as that which is less so will be 

ROAST BEEF — Begin first by preparing the roast evenly served and used. Another way is to take 

beef, wliich we will say is as usual in this case, a the bone out by first standing on end holding with a 

seven-rib cut. Set it on end, thick or shoulder end clean cloth b}' the bone and cutting the thick part 

down, in the carving dish on a well heated stand, off, beginning at the thin end and running the knife 

Care should be taken that the roast sets firm and as close to and along the full length of the bone. The 

near level as possible. Then trim off all surplus fat haunch separated, then with the point of the knife 

and crisp, the parts of the back bone which may be cut down on both sides of the bone beginning at the 

left on the roast by the butcher, and then with the thin end. After this draw the bone out with one 

fork draw out the sinew which runs along the entire hand and with the knife separate the adhering meat 

length in the thick part of the meat. This if per- from the bone. This done, you have two pieces of 

mitted to remain, hinders smooth carving and dulls meat to cut from. By the latter method it is hard to 

the knife. After this, cut close to and parallel with keep the meat from the fore part of the shank from 

the first or upper rib and about one inch deep; then falling apart, which is more wasteful than the first 

take the slicer, which should be held in a firm but method, that of carving from the bone, 

free grasp, not too stiff, all the fingers closed LEG OF MUTTON AND LAMB— Are best carved 

around the lower broad side of the handle, the right from the bone. With a clean cloth take a firm 

thumb extending on the upper broad side, holding hold of the shank bone, then begin carving at the 

in a flat position. Take off the first slice and lay it hip end by cutting thin slices diagonally towards 

aside for the guest who calls for the outside cut. the bone. The other way is just like that described 

If business is light and only one sev(^n-rib roast in the foregoing on veal, by first removing the bone, 

has been prepared, divide it between the second which in this instance I find preferable, as the haunch 

and the third rib. Then take the two-rib part, lay it separated can be cut in slices squarel> across the 

on the well done end In this way you will be enabled grain much nicer with assistance of the fork. In 

to carve that which is medium well done from the serving lamb or mutton a little of the fat should al 

thick end. Turn over and carve from the small end ways go with the lean, 

if well done is wanted. The remaining five ribs SADDLE OF MUTTON— The part including both 

should carve rare providing the joint was properly loins beginning at the lower rib and extending full 

roasted. Always cut thin slices unless thick is called up to the hips, is best carved lying with the back 

for. As the slice is cut place it on the dish with the up. Cut with a sharp knife at full length along the 

flat blade of the knife. Use the fork only for steady- centre of the back bone- then cut away one side 

ing the roast by resting it against the ribs. No ex- by beginning at the cut made at the back and separ- 

pert uses his hand in holding roast beef. ate it from the bones to which it still adheres. You 

In regard to the other joints such as lamb, veal, then have saddle in one solid piece from which nice 
pork and venison, a great deal depends on how they slices can be carved. Take the other part of the 
are prepared before roasting. In many hotels the saddle the same way when needed, 
butcher removes the large bones, which makes it SHOULDER OF MUTTON OR LAMB— These 
very easy to carve them, very little skill being re- joints are usually prepared by the butcher by re- 
quired. But where this is not the case, the carver moving the shoulder blade and rolling and tieing, 
must know the location of the bones and how best then which, after being roasted, requires no skill in 
to remove them without any waste. carving. But I believe the meat does not have as 

THE LEG OF VEAL— Weighing eighteen pounds fine a flavor where the bone is removed before roast- 

and over, being too heavy to be roasted thoroughly ing as when it remains, and it is well worth the 

well done without becoming too crisp on the outside carver's time to leave the bone for him to remove, 

within a given time, is usually separated from the It is not such a difficult task after one knows how, 

bone by the cook before placing in the oven. This especially when the joint is thoroughly well done, 

is the most economical as there is less waste and No effort should be made to carve until the blade 

the cook has the bones for his soups and sauces, has been removed. Separate the meat from the leg 



56 THE PRACTICAL HO 1 liL STEWARD. 

to where the blade begins, then lay flat with the rib while slicing. This is a very good method but it has 
side down. This places the ridge of the blade up, the effect to spoil the appearance of several pieces 
which can be easily found by feeling with the back through which the fork happens to pass. So I be- 
ef the knife. Beginning at the leg cut the full length lieve to remove the entire back; by cutting through 
of the blade on both sides of the ridge. After this the thin ribs connecting the breast and back, is the 
is well loose pass the knife, which should be a small better way, as you then have the solid breast, which, 
one, without mutilating, under loose meat and around after having removed the wings, slice with a sharp 
the end of the blade, where there is usually a gristle, knife, simply steadying with the fork. In serving 
if the animal was young. Separating this with your turkey give each guest part white and part dark 
fork you can extricate the blade and place the loose meat. First place the stuffing, then the piece of dark 
ends back in place. The brisket, or breast rib meat, laying the white meat over the whole. Gravy 
having been removed previously, you are then ready should not be poured over the white meat as it dis- 
to carve. As the ribs are mostly called for by the colors it. Cranberry sauce or jelly are best served 
guests, there will not be enough of them if two ribs on a separate sauce dish. 

are given to every order; I therefore believe it best The same rules which apply to turkey will answer 

to give one rib and a slice of the leg when serving a for the CAPON and also to LARGE ROAST 

full order. Serve each order with one rib; if the CHICKEN, 

shoulder is small, two ribs. SMALL ROAST CHICKEN— First remove the 

The foregoing rules will apply also to the LEG wings and the legs. Remove the stuffing, then lay 

AND SADDLE OF VENISON. on the side, the back from you and split in two, be- 

IN CARVING A HAM the skin should first be re- ginning at the neck. Then cut the breast in two 
moved. Then trim off the fat, leaving about three lengthwise. Separate the drumstick from the sec- 
fourths of an inch. Then split as described in leg ond joint. First place some stuffing, then place a 
of mutton. Carve the part without the bone, begin- piece of the leg and a piece of the breast for an 
ning at the thick end, cutting nearly square across order. Always try to keep both colors of meat 
grain in thin slices. served as evenly as possible. 

ROAST PIG— When placed on the carving stand THE GOOSE— I believe this the most difficult of 

whole, begin first by cutting off the head. Divide fowls to carve, and unless young and tender is very 

this by separating the lower from the upper jaw and little pleasure to serve. In carving first begin by 

split them. Cut off the shoulders with the blade removing the legs, the same as for turkey, then in- 

and then the hind quarters. Divide the body in two sert the fork across the center of the breast. Hold 

lengthwise at the back, lay halves with the skin side it firmly and cut thin slices from the breast, holding 

up and carve in portions, cutting across grain paral- the knife flat against the breast. After cutting sev- 

lel with the ribs. Place a little of the stuffing on the eral slices remove the wing. Proceed the same way 

dish with the meat. If baked apples, serve on same on the opposite side, then remove the wish bone by 

dish, but apple sauce should be served separately, cutting across down to the shoulders. This does 

THE TURKEY — Begin by removing the legs, not serve nicely as a vi'hole and is best cut in two at 

First find where the second joint is attached to the the curve and served with a slice or two of the 

back. Cut squarely down to the joint, then pass the breast. The second joint should be separated from 

knife between the body and leg to the end of the the leg and divided in two portions, cutting parallel 

second joint. By giving a slight outward pressure with the grain. Many prefer the drumstick served 

the leg will fall off. Then separate the drum stick whole on the bone, but, as a rule the meat is removed 

from the second joint; then divide the latter in two, from the bone. Place a little dressing on the dish, 

three, or more parts, according to the size, cutting then a piece of the leg or second joint and one or 

lengthways, and separate the meat from the drum two slices of the breast. Tart fruit sauce, such as 

stick. The half of the back with the pope's nose is apple, gooseberry or plum are best served on a 

then removed. The bone on either side of the back separate small sauce dish. 

bone is very thin: cut through parallel but not too TAME DUCK in carving, unless it is very large 

close to the back bone on both sides. This will and fat, you can hardly make more than six full 

give you the two side bones and pope's nose of the orders out of each bird. Proceed much like carving 

turkey. You now have the breast. I was taught to a goose. First remove the legs, but do not separate 

take a strong fork inserting it across the back bone, from the second joint as the two together will not 

which if it is well set, will enable you to hold firmly make a full order, then remove the wings, then the 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD 

wish bone and make two orders out of each side of plates, usually with a leaf of lettuce, parsley or some 

the breast. When the duck is large and fat three other little garnish suiting the occasion, 

orders may be made from each side. Serve the FISH should always be served on a six-inch plate, 

same as goose. whether breakfast, dinner or supper, as it does away 

MALLARD DUCK. In an American plan hotel a with the bringing of an extra change of plates. No 

mallard duck should make about four to five good other food can well be eaten from the same plate on 

orders, not including the legs, which are not desir. which fish has been. A small portion of potatoes 

able though often served. The best way in carving nicely placed on one side, with a leaf of lettuce or a 

is to remove the legs first, then the wings, if they are small sprig of parsley and a small slice of lemon, 

not already cut off by the cook. If it is intended to An order of fish served in this manner will be found 

make but four orders ; cut along one side of the ridge very attractive and appetizing. 

bone the full length of the breast: then, with your ROAST BEEF appears best when served on what 

knife, free the meat clear down the side to the wing is known as an eight-inch dish. There should be 

or shoulder bone and separate from around the wish but little gravy unless otherwise ordered, 

bone. This gives you the whole side, which can VEAL, LAMB. MUTrO.NJ. TURKEY and all 

sometimes be cut in three portions, but more often other roasts and boileds should be served on a 

only two, owing to the condition of the duck and the seven-inch dish, or a size smaller than that for roast 

size or portions it is desired to serve. Proceed the beef. 

same way with both sides and serve with a small SINGLE STEAKS, A PAIR OF CHOPS, HAM, 

spoonful of jelly on the side. CANVASBACK and FRIED EGGS on seven inch dishes. 

RED HEAD DUCK are served about the same way. MOST ENTREES appear best served on six-inch 

TEAL DUCK. A nice plump teal duck will make, dishes. All VEGETABLES unless served as en- 
two portions. Cut through the center lengthways trees or entremets, should be served in what are 
thus dividing it into equal parts. Place on dish with known as bakers, or deep oval dishes, 
the cut or hollow side down. Serve with a little All SALADS make the neatest appearance when 
jelly placed on the side. served on five-inch plates on a leaf of lettuce. 

The foregoing are the most important roasts which rarni<;Viincr 
come to the carving stand. Sucli dishes as BOILED 



TONGUE, CORNED BEEF, FILLETS OF BEEF, 
etc., require very little instruction, as one's natural 
intelligence will prove a suflicient guide. 



A little parsley or water cress, when it is possible 

to get them, using in their absence a leaf of lettuce, 

and, in addition, sometimes a slice of lemon adds 

wonderfully to the appearance of many dishes, and 

What Dishes to Use in Serving. often has the effect of creating an appetite in those 

SHELL OYSTERS OR CLAMS to appear most cases where we find it necessary to cater to a deli 

attractive should be served on deep plates, the hoi- cate stomach, and always enlists a favorable com- 

low of which should be filled with cracked ice, ac ment. The idea that some may have that it is 

companied by a quarter of lemon. wasteful or extratagant is, to my mind, erroneous, 

BOUILLON when clear should be served in because the amount of patronage gained for the 

cups: but if it contain vegetables or garnishes of house through their attractive table service will 

any kind, regular soup plates should be used. doubly repay them for any money spent in that 

HORS D'OEUVRES should be served on five-inch direction. 



58 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

PARTY CATERING. charge, telling him what features of that affair she 



In some places, the providers or purveyors to so- 
ciety's entertainment have attained for thDmselves 
enviable positions, vvliich their gradually acquired 
knowledge — how to please and be original, what is 
new and elegant in decorations, what and how to 
serve at a party, a wedding or a birthday, a ball or 
a reception of any kind or style have attained for 
them. 

The caterer, keeping himself constantly informed 
of the doings in society principally through the 
means of papers and periodicals devoted to those 
interests, is prepared to meet the demands made of 
him, and not seldom his ideas are first taken into 
consideration when some social affair is contemp- 
lated. In order for a man to acquire such a stand, 
the aspirant should be possessed of refined tastes 
and manners, an affable disposition, and he must be 
a firm manager, and as his business, of course, brings 
him principally in contact with ladies, he should also 
be an urbane gentleman. 

For his own success, he must be a good calculator. 
To get started in this business (unless one has some 
friendly acquaintances in society, or can buy an 
already established concern) requires tenacity and 
a large sum of money, even where there is no such 
business in town. The most successful that we 
meet with is usually the man who started out in a 
small way, probably with a small restaurant and 
bakery, where he was occasionally called on to pre- 
pare some special dishes by ladies prominent in their 
circle, the nicety of which created such favorable 
impression, that it caused others to give him their 
orders for similar articles, and the prestige he so 
gained was taken advantage of. 

The first important bit of catering which brought 
Mr. A successfully to the notice of the fashion- 
ables was, let us say, as follows: Mrs. B s 

daughter was about to be married. Now Mrs. B 

was a very prominent leader of the ultra fashionable 



thought very nice and unique, and of others she dis- 
liked. She also informed him where she had seen a 
certain nice piece of statuary and a pair of antique 
vases, and some other articles of decoration which 
she thought would look very beautiful, and would 
harmonize well with what she had for the occasion, 
and, if possible for him to secure the loan of them, 
or others like them, for the evening. Mr. A un- 
dertook to furnish the desired articles, which, as a 
man of good qualities, and being well known, he had 
no trouble in renting, at a low price, he assuming 
the risk of breakage or loss. The next morning Mr. 
A in company with a florist, went to the resi- 
dence of the lady to inspect the interior arrange- 
ments and the lay of the drawing rooms, dining 
room, kitchen, etc., which was a necessity, in order 
to knovv all that was necessary to skillfully manage 
the affair without any possible mishap: also what 
style of decorations would be most appropriate, and 
what precautions were necessary to protect the 
guests from a possible inclemency of the weather. 
When there, he. found that the house extended back 
from the street a certain distance, with an entrance 
from the alley, which made it convenient for unload- 
ing all supplies in the rear. In front, it required the 
building of a temporary canopy from the curb to the 
entrance, and also extending a short distance par- 
allel with the sidewalk, enabling several carriages 
to land at the same time. A strip of carpet for the 
protection of the ladies' dresses and slippers from 
being soiled, in passing to and from the carriages 
was necessary from the landing to the guests' en- 
trance, it was also necessary to have some light. 
He contracted with a tent manufacturer for making 
and placing the canopy, (who also supplied the can- 
vas for covering the carpets in the rooms where 
necessary; also with an electrician to place a row 
of incandescent lights under the canop)', and change 
and place what lights were needed in the different 
parts of the house. 



set, so to speak While living in a large and elegant , r. , ^ j j , .1 i j i i 

^ After having decided on where the bridal couple 

mansion on the boulevard, luxuriously furnished, , u * j * j i . a 1 j 

should stand to receive, and what floral decorations 

yet she was not prepared to entertain some four or r n .1 n * u t* j 

■' ft- were necessary for all purposes, the florist submitted 

five hundred guests without some assistance. She ,. ,. ^ , ,, . , 1 ,1 . • j 

^ his estimate to Mr. A , who also then ascertained 

mentioned the matter to Mr. A— (who usually , ^ ^ ,1 1 • .. 1 1 i- . j j 

ii.ciiL yj ^ \ J what tables, chairs, table linens, etc., were needed, 

supplied her with salads, ice creams and sometimes j u * *i, 1 u • * f i. «• j 

^^^ and what the supper should consist of. It was found 

roasts, etc., on holiday occasions). He seemed so . , , • j u 1 1 ^ t n ^ 

' ^ ' ^ ' that he required help about as follows. One man 

well informed that it was decided he should take . ., • ^ .u a 

at the carriages; one man at the door ; one man at 

charge of the decorations and the conducting of the ^, . , ^ /.. . . j j j . 

v,iiai5c.-. D ^j^g gentlemen s coat room, (the hostess decided to 

supper. Before leaving, however, Mrs. B dis- have several of her maids take charge of the ladies' 

cussed a recently given reception by Mrs. J dressing room) ; one headwaiter and his crew of 

where Mr. Smith happened to be the caterer in assistants; four dishwashers and cleaners. As most 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 59 

everything was cooked at Mr. A 's restaurant, he ing coffee and ice cream were already on the table, 

needed only a small kitchen crew for serving. He where each guest was helped to what he wished by 
also engaged a private detective, who appeared in an attending waiter. The coffee passed to the guest 
full dress as if a guest, whose duty it was to notice in a cup and spoon was served (without saucers) 
any unbidden visitors that often appear in large with some whipped cream ready to drink, 
crowds. The policeman who was on that beat was After the guests had left, the headwaiter and as- 
asked to remain around and see that no crowds col- sistants began to clear up, cleaning all the dishes, 
lected to annoy the guests in passing in and out. glass and silverware, counting and repacking urns 

On the day of the wedding, Mr. A was given in chamois bags, making a memoranda of everything 

entire charge of the house. All arrangements and that was damaged or missing. The other help re- 
decorations were left to his own judgment. In the moved the canopy, and in short, the entire house 

dining room the tables were arranged in place, suit- was placed in its normal condition before Mr. A 's 

ing the size and shape of the room. On the side of help left it. In the days following, Mr. A re- 

the dining room, opposite the entrance, was the ceived many compliments from those who had been 

bride's table, about ten feet long, on which was there. The supper was served to pei fection, noth- 

placed the brides cake. The centre of the side fac- ing had been lost, and very little broken, and by his 

ing the dining room entrance were placed two seats skillful management had relieved the hostess of a 

for the bride and groom. Next to the bride, the great deal of annoyance, 

groom's father; next to the groom, the bride s On an another occasion, shortly afterwards. Mr. 

mother. The clergyman sat next to the bride's A served a buffet breakfast at a wedding where 

mother, and his wife next to the groom's father, everything was placed on the tables (similar to a 

The grooms mother next to the clergyman, and the buffet luncheon). These and several subsequent 

brides father next to the clergyman's wife The undertakings which, like the first, above described, 

balanceof the tables were small, seating but four all managed successfully, brought him prominently 

guests. In the hall was placed a table upon which before the public as a skilled caterer of good taste, 

were some paper boxes containing pieces of wedding His reputation was established. No society affair 

cake neatly tied up with tiny ribbons, which were to was strictly up to date unless he was in charge of 

be handed to the guests by a young lady as they the service. He now has an elegant office and sam- 

passed out. ple room located in the fashionable district of the 

In the pantry the headwaiter with his assistants, city, in connection with an elegant cafe and restaur- 

receiving and unpacking all the crockery, silverware, ant located on the ground floor. He has a full line 

cut glass, linens, the coffee and hot water urns, of samples of everything pertaining to the business, 

punchbowl, etc., counting and cleaning them, set- and carries a stock of porcelain, silver and cut 

ting the hot water and coffee urns and placing under glass tableware of the latest designs, from which 

them gas burners. The silver urns and punch bowl, his patrons may choose when engaging him, and for 

were placed on the sideboard in the dining room, which he charges accordingly. In the working de- 

They then set the tables, using very little and simple partment he is fully equipped to meet all demands, 

decorations. He can send out and have several parties served at 

In the kitchen the cooks have charge of preparing the same time. His furniture, such as chairs and 

such dishes as could not be done at the restaurant, tables, are made to fold so they will take but very 

also heating such dishes as were necessary The little room in transportation. His coffee and water 

menu consisted of "rns, of which he has a number of different sizes. 

Bouillon in cups are all provided with alcohol and gas burners. His 

Bread sticks and sandwiches , . u-^u ^^^^.^a jo^c: otn arpnark(>H 

Chicken patties packing cans, in which creams, ices, etc, are packed 

Lamb cutlets with peas for transport are all enameled, that nothing so 

Fresh lobster mayonnaise r • ., ^ 

Russian salad packed can contract a foreign taste. 

Ice cream Cake Violet charlotte j^j^ ^ j,as a most admirable system of count- 

Cheese and crackers , • ■ 

Coffee ing and checking everything before leaving his place ; 

The bouillon was served in heated cups, and bread again on arrival at the house where the serving 

sticks were placed on folded napkins in front of the is done, and then again on being returned He al- 

guest. One chicken pattie and one lamb cutlet were ways knows when and where anything is lost or 

placed on the same plate and passed to each guest, broken and on whom to place the responsibility for 

Then punch was served. The other articles except- loss or breakage. 



6o THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

He has quite a library of books on everything per- two of the edge. They were filled with fruits, and 

taining to the culinary art, and of the catering busi- added greatly to the appearance, 

ness. He keeps informed on all the latest events of Large baskets and punch bowls made of nougat, 

society. The most difficult part of his business, he were also filled with fruits. On opposite sides of 

finds, is in devising new ideas, with which to meet the table, were enormous platters, each containing 

the general approval in his patrons' efforts to outdo a salmon, weighing twenty-five pounds, en mayon- 

one another in entertaining their friends. naise. One of the most beautiful pieces was a crown 

The foregoing is an illustration of conducting the (the emblem of Messrs. Hiram Walker & Sons, Lim- 

catering business on a large scale, such as few can ited) made of beef tongues, en jellie, and surmount- 

afford, and only in large cities. It is usually con' ed with an anchor of stearine, tied with narrow red, 

ducted in a more moderate way. In most all com- white and blue ribbon, and supporting the American 

munities you will find both men and women, usually and British flags in silk, one on either side, 

good cooks, who make a living by going to private Other pieces were lobster en aspic, jellies filled 

houses to do the cooking and preparing for parties, with small fruits, boned chicken and game in aspic, 

A GREAT CATERING FEAT. beef a la mode, ornamented hams, salads, etc. Be- 

The following account of a catering feat, in which sides an elaborate menu of bouillon, salads, cold 

a Chicago establishment distinguised itself in Can- meats, fruits, sandwiches, ices, lemonade, coffee, 

ada soil, is reproduced from the National Hotel punches, etc., Mumm's extra dry was served with 

Reporter: lavish hand. Added to this, a special brand of 

The scene of the service is a beautiful spot, It cigars was served, made exclusively foi the Messrs. 

lies between the ornate offices of the Messrs. Walker Walker by Bock & Company, Havana, and encircled 

and the river, and is laid out in the shape of a lawn by a band bearing the Walkers' name, 

three hundred by one hundred and fifty feet, divided The guests were lavish in their praises of the un- 

by a gravel walk from river to oflSces, and flanked bounded hospitality of the Messrs. Walker, and of 

on three sides by a box hedge, and on the office side the very excellent service rendered by Kinsley's, 

by a mammoth fountain and bed of tropical plants. and this affair must rank as a truly remarkable one. 

Two tents were used on this occasion, one sixty when it is stated that it took two carloads of para- 
feet in diameter, the other forty feet in diameter, to phernalia and material, and forty-five cooks and 
suit the proportions of the lawn on either side of waiters to serve it, all of which Messrs Kinsley & 
walk. Surmounting one tent, was the American Baumann took with them from Chicago, entering 
flag, while the Union Jack floated proudly from the each item in their lengthy invoice through the Cana- 
pinnacle of the other. The tables in either tent sur- dian Customs, and again through the American Cus- 
rounded the centre pole, and here the chefs and toms returning. Some little difficulty was exper- 
waiters had produced the marvelous effect which ienced in passing the Customs at Detroit on the 
so captivated the guests on their arrival. The plan return trip, the collector insisting upon the payment 
of decoration was somewhat similar in either tent, of duty on all foreign made articles in the outfit, 
enough difference of arrangement being made to although they had been used for some time by the 
avoid absolute sameness. Smilax and asparagus caterers, and duty had been paid on them when im- 
ferns encircled the centre pole, and tall vases of ported. But upon application to the Hon, Lyman J. 
American Beauty roses were placed around its base. Gage, Secretary of the Treasury, this difficulty was 
Wide red, white and blue ribbons in alternate colors removed 

were stretched from the edge of the table, and THE ENGLISH AS COMMERCIAL CATERERS, 

carried half way up the centre pole, where they As commercial caterers, the English have attained 

were fastened in festoons. Candelabra with vari- within certain limits to the highest excellence This 

colored shades were placed upon the table, and the says the National Hotel Reporter, is an outcome of 

blending of color with that of the ribbons was har- the incessant eagerness of the Briton to engage in 

monious and beautiful. some sort of outdoor function in which eating occu- 

The ornamental pieces consisted of Cornucopias, pies a conspicuous place Whether for boating par- 
five feet from mouth to tip, and a foot in diameter ties on the Thames, the races, or games of any kind, 
at th» mouth, made of white and gold pasteboard, the inevitable hamper of provisions is an essential 
and tied with wide ribbons of red, white and blue part of the equipment. Facility and certainty of 
alternately, these were laid against the centre pole, transportation make London the centre of alimen- 
and extended out upon the table to within a foot or tary supply for such occasions. Years of experience 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 6i 

and practice have taught English caterers a system, don. Another firm of caterers liitewise provide 

which for compactness and completeness has at- hampers for boating and picnic parties; but they do 

tained absolute perfection. One London establish- no: include a table as an adjunct. Their hampers 

ment provides a luncheon hamper, from which are contain linen, china and plate, pigeon pies, ox 

evolved a table, the comestibles and table furnish- tongue, pressed beef, salads, bread and butter and 

ings to be placed upon it. This package maybe cheese, all of which are furnished at a cost of 80 

opened, and in less than five minutes the table is cents a head. This firm not only feeds its patrons, 

set up, dressed with linen and a service of silver, but also owns steam launches and house boats for 

china and cutlery. The eatables, which are included use on the Thames, which may be engaged at a 

in the hamper, consist of boeuf braise, of which six moment's notice, equipped for \)ccupancy for any 

tons are sold weekly by one caterer; mayonnaise of length of time. The firm's agents call every day for 

salmon, chaudfroid de foie-gras, aspic of ortolans, orders, and all that the lessees need consider is the 

perdreaux a la gelee, etc.. according to the price enjoyment of the moment; every complication of 

paid, which does not exceed $1 a head, all of the housekeeping being eliminated by the payment of a 

accessories included. This package is delivered fixed sum. 
free of charge within a reasonable distance of Lon- 



«a THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

\Ay^TNP'Q (barrels or casks) should be located in a place 

where an equable temperature with the least possi- 
(French, Vin; German, Wein.) ble variation the year round can be maintained, 

The word wine is a German term. When used which should be not over 60 degrees maximum, 
alone it applies to the fermented juice of grapes. Sudden changes are most dangerous to wines ; even 
Other fermented beverages extracted from fruit and when in bottles this should be avoided. New wines, 
vegetables are also called wine, but the name from and especially the heavy-bodied ones, can stand a 
which the same is made is prefixed, such as Elder- higher temperature; it is even beneficial to them 
berry, Gooseberry, etc. while new as it has a tendency to hasten maturity. 

Wine is made by taking the fruit when thoroughly Damp or foul air is to be avoided, as it has the effect 
ripe and the juice extracted by means of a press, to produce a moldy taste of the wines: for that 
The product in the fresh state, which is caUed Must, reason the cellar should be perfectly dry and well 
is placed in large casks to ferment; and after the ventilated. The ventilators should be either in the 
wine is settled and cleared it is drawn from the lees ceiling, or, this being mostly impossible, in the walls 
(which is the thick muddy sediment separated by as near the ceiling as possible. The place should 
fermentation) and placed in clean casks in cellars be kept scrupulously clean and no foreign matter 
of equable temperature, where it is permitted to such as vegetables kept in the same, 
remain for some time and completed for the market. In the centre and full length of the room or cellar 

The art of making and treating wines is a profes- there should be a rack made of two timbers laying 
sion which requires study and practice. There are parallel about two or two and a half feet apart, 
several comprehensive books written on this subject, upon which the barrels are to rest. The barrels 
one of them Thudicum, where everything is fully ex- should lay perfectly level, with bung at the top. On 
plained; and while it may not be necessary for a the sides of the cellar should be partitioned shelving, 
wine steward to know how wine is made and treated in which the bottled wines are kept, each partition 
I have found it a very pleasant study and have ob- being numbered or labeled showing what kind of 
tained a great deal of valuable information, which wine it contains. These partitions are divided into 
came in good place on several occasions. I shall in sections, one to contain all the champagnes, another 
a brief sketch endeavor to give my own experience Bordeaux, another Burgundy and so on, giving each 
in the handling of Native American Still Wines, distinct type of wine a section. 

which covers only a very small field. Their treat- All ales, beers, porters, distilled goods and min- 
ment, however, I find is very much the same the eral waters should be kept in a separate room, as 
world over. In some localities, of which California the temperature does not affect them so quickly. 
is one, they are handled with less danger of loss This latter room is best situated so as to answer as 
owing to the larger per cent, of alcohol contained an ante room for the wine cellar. In this can also 
in them than are those of the Middle Eastern States be kept the implements and utensils necessary in 
and of Europe. the cellar, such as several syphons (of different 

In Europe, all large establishments, both public sizes) which are used to draw the wine from the 
and private, have their well regulated wine cellars, barrels through the bung hole; an assortment of 
which is the pride of the keeper. He pays personal long tapered bungs; a burg starter; some bottle 
attention. To the Inn keeper it is the most import- racks (which are boards with large round holes in 
ant part of his business. When the cellars are ex- which the bottles can be placed to drain after wash- 
tensive he has a man (master of the cellar or wine ing) ; a corking machine ; several faucets; sulphur; 
steward) in charge of it. In large wine houses the labels for your bottles, and a variety of copper 
cellar master has a number of assistants who are measures and funnels. 

kept busy every day in the year issuing, drawing When receiving wine in casks or barrels it should 
and bottling the different kinds of wine. In well-to- be placed in the cellar on the rack which should be 
do families where the owner has a small cellar a there for the purpose, as before stated ; then, after 
man comes around at regular intervals, who looks leveling it, wedge-shaped blocks should be placed 
after the wine, draws and bottles what his patron on both sides, well piropped, so that the barrels rest 
may require until he returns. He may have several on them instead of the timbers direct. The next 
cellars in charge and thereby makes a comfortable thing to be done is to remove the bung, which is 
living, done with the bung starter (this is a tool like a flat 

The cellars where wines are kept in the wood long handled mallet.) Several strong blows on the 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 63 

Stave near the bung will start it. After removing, then ready for use. The object of sulphur is to 

examine as to the condition of the wine, and also if destroy any possible remaining germs, retard pre- 

the barrel is entirely full ; if not take some wine of mature fermentation and act as a preservative in 

a similar kind and fill clear up, then close up again cases where wines are very weak, 

with a long bung, which can be more easily removed Barrels should be always sulphured after being 

at future inspections. emptied and washed, as it keeps them from becom- 

It is very important that as long as wine is kept in ing sour or turning moldy and they are ready for 

the wood the package should be kept full to the immediate use at any time. 

bung hole, for if thera is any room for air it will act To prepare sulphur blades, put one pound of sul- 

on the wine and a white scum to rise on the top, phur in an iron pan and melt over a fire, then cut 

which will cause it to become sour in a short time, some manilla or brown paper into strips of one inch 

If in bottling there should be more than what it takes wide, and dip them into the melted sulphur ; when 

to fill the bottles on hand, the remainder should be well immersed draw them out again and let cool, 

immediately drawn into a smaller barrel or keg, so One pound will make a sufficient quantity for a long 

that they are full, always using wines of the same while. 

kind to refill. Never use water, as it may cause the CLEANING BOTTLES. 

■wine to turn to vinegar. Wine should always remain In cleaning bottles use soft warm water with a 

for some time in the casks in the same position des- little salsoda (and glass beads where necessary), 

cribed above, before bottling, in order to get over rinse with clean cold water, then place, bottom up, on 

the effect of transportation; and then, when it has a rack that they may drain thoroughly. When bottl- 

been decided to bottle the same, select if possible jng is intended, first inspect your wine ; if perfectly 

a clear day, as the lees or settling of wine act very clear, set all the bottles it is intended to fill in even 

much like a barometer, slightly rising on a stormy rows three or four deep. Get your corks ready by 

day and being settled in clear weather. A matter first washing in clean tepid water, as it softens them 

of greatest importance is the condition of the bar and they are easier to handle with the machine. It 

rels, jugs, bottles or other vessels in which wine is jg vvell to have about three assistants in order that 

drawn or kept, no barrels in which vinegar has been the work move rapidly. One draws with the syphon, 

kept, or in which v.'ine has become sour, or barrels one fills the bottles, the other corks, caps and labels 

in which vinegar, acid or mold can be detected, them. When all is finished the bottles should be 

should be used. Fresh empty whisky or wine bar- placed on the sides, inclining toward the cork and 

rels are the best. remain in that position until they are to be used, 

CLEANING BARRELS. tj^g^ jj^gy ought to stand up a day or more to permit 

The best method of cleaning barrels is as follows: ^^^ sediment, if any, to go to the bottom. 

First take about eight or ten gallons of scalding hot ^j^^ i^^^ ^^^^ ^^,^ ^^^^^ ^^g,^^ ^^^ ^^ ^^ ^^^^^^^ 

water (soft), adding about one ounce of sal-soda, or ^^,^^^ ^^^ immediate use. Usually when bottled 

the fourth of an ounce of caustic soda. When dis- too young, a sediment forms on the lower side of 

solved put it in the barrels to be cleaned: then drive ^he bottle: where this interferes with the serving it 

the bung lightly, shake this for about five minutes, ^^^^^^ ^^ rebottled and if this becomes necessary 

washing the barrel thoroughly; then let run out, p,^^^ ^^^ j^^^^,^ ;^ ^„ inclining position with the 

then put the same quantity of clean cold water in , , Af* u • «■ n „ .ti^j a^^,-,, tUa 

^ ^ J neck or cork up. After being fully settled draw the 

the barrel and rinse in the same manner. If on dis- 1 u i- *i 1 ..i r..i „„ „„,..ui„ ti,^^ r^^.,i- 

cork, shaking the bottle as little as possible, then pour 

charging this the water is perfectly colorless and no ^^^^ ^^j^^^ ^,g^,^ ^^^^^^^ ^.^^^ carefully so as not to 

foreign odor remains, this will be sufficient ; if the disturb the sediment. Wine improves more rapidly 

contrary is the case repeat the rinsing two or three .^ ^^^j, ^^^^^^^ ^^,^^^^^ .^ ^^.^^^ ^j^^^ ^f^^^ it i^ ;„ ^ot- 

times and then fill the barrel with water and let it ^, ^, ... , . , ,„ ,,„„ •. j;^^^n.. oftor 

ties, though It IS best not to use it directly atter 

remain for a day, and then, after having emptied the , „,. i^ u u 1 ,„i „,^ .1,0 -,t i^oc* ^ff«r 

■' b f bottling. It should lay several months at least alter 

same, take a blade of sulphur about three inches , ^,,. 

^ bottling. 

long and one inch wide for a forty to fifty gallon BLENDING, 

cask, attach to a wire hook fastened to a long bung, It sometimes happens that an old wine lacking in 

light and place it in the barrel, driving the bung, quality can be improved by blending with another 

After having allowed enough time for the sulphur to which possesses in abundance that which is insuffi- 

consume, remove the bung, also the charred parts dentin the former; for instance, a "weak" wine 

which remain attached to the hook. The barrel is with a "heavy-bodied" containing an abundance of 



64 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

alcohol; red wines lacking in color, with the deeptoday no swell repast anywhere in the civilized 

red. Where the per cent, of alcohol is not high world is complete without sparkling champagne, 

enough, pure grape alcohol may be added. Harsh The wines of Champagne were recognized among 

white wines are refined by the use of gelatine and the finest known long before Dom Perignon's dis- 

adding distilled water. Harsh red wines are im- covery. As far back as the fifth century, St. Remi, 

proved with mild wines of the same but lighter color, baptiser of Clovis, the first Christian King of France, 

A white wine which is too pale can be given the bequeathed to various churches the vineyards he 

golden color by the use of a little caramel, etc. owned at Reims and Laon, together with the men 

However, blending or doctoring is not to be encour- who attended to their cultivation. [Henry Vizetelly 

aged, as only expert judges of wine can really tell in Facts About Champagne.] 

what may improve a wine that is not up to require- Along in the middle ages champagne, the wine of 

ments, and an amateur can too easily make an ex- kings and nobles, and so highly prized by them, was 

oensive blunder ^ heavy-bodied red wine resembling the Burgundies ' 

If there are several casks of young wine in the and for many years there was quite a sharp tilt 

cellar it should be drawn about twice a year— in the among the medical fraternity as to the relative 

spring and fall— and put into clean casks, using a merits of the products of the two provinces of 

syphon or faucet, being careful not to disturb the Champagne and Burgundy, the faculty of Paris to 

sediment. By paying proper attention to the treat- whom the matter was referred, finally deciding in 

ment of them the proprietor or manager can lay in a favor of Champagne. 

large quantity of good new wines and in the course The best wines grown in Champagne are those of 

of a few years have better goods in his cellar at a the prefecture of Reims and Epernay on the hills 

reasonable cost than he can buy already bottled, sloping toward the banks of the River Marne. It is 

paying proportionately a high price for them, Liq- ^aid that the inclination of these hills together with 

ueur or sweet wines such as Port, Sherry, Madeira, ^he soil, which consists principally of chalk, clay 

Malaga. Angelica, etc., do not require any of the a"d sand, are most favorable to the growth of fine 

careful treatment as above mentioned, as the abund- ^'"e, and there is no doubt but what location and 

ant quantity of alcohol preserves them. soil together are the factors to be reckoned with in 

any latitude where wines are raised ; as every wine 

A Classification of Some of the Most Famous grower knows what a great difference there is in 

Wines, Where Grown and How Made. the quality of the same kind of grapes in the same 

Beginning with the sparkling or effervescent vineyard. 
(Mousseux) wines ; This was first made in the Prov- Effervescent champagne is principally made from 
ince of Champagne, and is said to have been dis- a black grape, identical with that from which red 
covered by a Benedictine monk named Dom Perig. Burgundies are made, and are known as Plant dore 
non, chief cellarman of the Abbey of Hautvillers, a "black graped." [Thudicum Treatise on Wines], 
little village in the prefecture of Reims, one of the There are also other suitable varieties, such as the 
principal wine producing districts of Champagne grape known as the Meunier, which is of inferior 
toward the close of the 17th century. It was he quality, but gives abundance in quantity. Only about 
who first conceived the idea of blending or marrying one fourth of the entire crop of Champagne wines 
the product of one vineyard with that of another; are transformed into sparkling wines; the balance 
that is, he found a great difference in the quality of is made into still wines, mostly red. 
the wines produced; some were light-bodied, with When the season is at hand to gather the grapes, 
abundant fragrance , others were more generous but great numbers of laborers of both sexes are engaged, 
possessed very little bouquet. By mixing these who, with arm-baskets, proceed to cut them care- 
wines together in certain proportions, and even fully, picking off all bad or inferior berries, and 
adding wines of some previous superior vintage, he when the arm-baskets are filled they are carried to 
gave each what was lacking, and so improved all- the roadway and emptied into large hempers in 
It also occurred to him that a piece of cork would which the grapes are transported to the presses, 
make a more suitable stopper than tow of hemp or This work is done with great care to avoid breaking 
flax dipped in oil, which was used for that purpose or crushing the fruit before being pressed, for the 
up to that time. While experimenting in this way reason that as soon as the grapes are crushed incip- 
he discovered how to make an effervescent wine lent fermentation begins to dissolve the coloring 
that was delicate and pleasing to the taste; and matter on the husks of the black grapes, and has 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STLWARU. 65 

the effect to give the wine a reddish tint. The grapes there it flows through pipes into reservoirs, to which 

should he pressed as soon as possible after picking are connected a number of faucits or taps which 

and the time for pressing them is not longer than close automatically as soon as the bottle is full, 

two hours The must so produced is placed in vats They are then removed and passed to the men who 

and allowed to remain for some time — not exceeding cork them and place an iron fastener (called an 

one day. This after being allowed to clear, is then agrafe) which can be easily removed when the time 

drawn into barrels of ordinary size and placed into comes for disgorging or removing the yeast. The 

cellars to ferment and is not disturbed until winter bottles are then placed in a cellar for future fer- 

About the middle of December, the wine having mentation, during which time there is some loss 

become perfectly clear is drawn from the lees occasioned by the bursting of the bottles; and the 

After this, manufacturing houses carry the wine to men working in these cellars when handling the 

their own cellars, where they do the mixing and pre- bottles are obliged to wear wire masks and leather 

pare the wine to suit the taste of their patrons, gloves to protect them from injury. After fermen- 

which is done by taking different qualities of wine tation ceases the bottles are placed in an inclined 

in carefully estimated proportions, mixing them to- position, neck down, and are often turned, which 

gether thoroughly in large vats called "making a causes the sediment which has settled on the side 

cuvee." In these the wine is thoroughly stirred of the bottle to deposit itself down to the cork, 

with fan-shaped paddles and then again put into Then the disgorging begins, which is done by remov- 

barrels. Usually about four-fifths of the wine from ing the cork and, by expert manipulation, expels the 

black grapes is mixed with one-fifth of white grape lump of yeast and the raising foam carrying all 

wine. remaining impurities with it, with but little loss of 

The expert wine maker must know at this time wine. The bottles then pass to the finishers who 
the amount of carbonic acid gas it contains, as on add what liqueur may be required, cork, wire and 
this depends the strength of effervescene, which, if label them. The wine prepared as above is per- 
too strong, will burst too many bottles, or, if too fectly dry (Brut) there is no perceptible taste of 
weak, the wine will not sparkle. They now have an sugar; and as the taste of consumers differ, some 
instrument called glucometer, whereby the exact desiring more sweet than others, the process of 
amount of saccharine is ascertained. If it shows a liqueuring is resorted to. This is done by the addi- 
lack of the latter pure sugar candy is added. If an tion of a liqueur prepared of spirits of wine and. 
excess of sugar is shown, bottling must be deferred sugar, small quantities of which are added in vary- 
until it has been absorbed through fermentation, ing proportions to each bottle as desired. In some 
The fineing or clearing is done by the use of gelatine cases the addition of a little spirits of wine without 
dissolved in wine and small quantities added in each sugar is all that is required. This done, the bottle 
barrel and thoroughly mixed with a kind of paddle passes to the men who do the corking, then on to 
which can pass through the bung hole. It is during others who attach the strings and wire to secure 
this stage of fineing and blending that the wine is the corks, then to others who apply the foil, and fin- 
really made and requires the greatest care to pre- ally they pass to the labelers. The wine is then 
vent spoiling. ready for shipping. 

After this comes the bottling. Owing to the tre- Champagne is produced in four qualities namely: 

mendous pressure of the gas generated during i — Non Mousseux. 

fermentation, which ensues after bottling, the bot 2— Crement. 

ties used for the purpose must be perfectly round 3 — Mousseux. 

and the glass of even thickness. They are all tested 4 — Grand Mousseux. 

by an expert and none are ever used a second time. The first, NON MOUSSEUX. is fined, drawn into 

Every precaution is used in order to keep the per bottles, corked and tied in the usual manner, but 

centage of bottles bursting during fermentation does not become effervescent; it is the original 

down as low as possible. method of making bottled champagne. 

The washing is done mostly by women. They use (2) CREMENT, is moderately sparkling, there is 

glass beads instead of shot, and after the bottles only a slight effervescence when poured into the 

are clear they are again examined. The season for glass. 

bottling is usually between April and August. When (3) MOUSSEUX. This wine when the bottle is 

the work begins the barrels of wine are brought up opened projects the cork with an audible report 

from the cellar and emptied into large vats; from and rises gently to the mouth of the bottle. 



66 THE PRACTICAL HO 1 KL STEWARD. 

(4) GRAND MOUSSEUX, projects the cork with by E. Normandin & Co., near Bordeaux in a little 

a loud report and the wine overflows the bottle. town of Chateauneuf. 

The prices on wines for the market are according In the Province of Anjou (the cradle of the Plant- 
to the different grades which are : Ordinary wines, agenet kings) SPARKLING SAUMUR is extensively 
Fine wines and Cabinet wines, Pale wines and Red- made. This section ranks next to Champagne in 
dish wines. By the term dry or extra dry (brut) is importance of making effervescent wines and they 
meant wines to which no sweetening has been added are largely sold as the real champagne, 
and is Ml its natural state. Sec ov Grand Sec \i, used In Burgundy we find the SPARKLING CHAM- 
for wines which have been added to with sweet BERTIN, VOUGEOT, ROMANEE, NUITS and 
liqueur. VOLNEY. 

The first man to introduce sparkling champagne In Lower Burgundy the effervescent VIN D'AR- 

bearing the manufacturer's name (becoming immed- BANNE is made at Bar Sur Aube; near that place 

lately a popular wine with the French nobility) was the VIN D'ARBOIS is also made; but the latter 

the Marquis De Sillery. Since then the number of wines retain their effervescence only a few years, 

champagne makers has constantly increased. In the South of France the SPARKLING ST 

Among the older and most prominent houses now PERAY is a wine of good reputation. The method 

manufacturing sparkling champagnes (the majority of making it differs somewhat from champagne, 

of whom make both natural, intermediate or Grand The grapes from which these wines are made, are 



Sec wines,) are the following: 

Veuve Cliquot (now Cliquot-Werle). 

Moet & Chandon. 

G. H. Mumm & Co. 

Pommery & Greno. 

Deutz & Gelderman. 

Heidsiek & Co 

Ernest Irroy. 

Ruinart Pere & Fils. 

Perrier Jouet. 

George Goulet. 

Louis Roederer. 

Delbeck & Co. 

Dagonet & Fils. 

Bouche Fils & Co. 

Giesler & Co. 

J. Lemoine. 

Krug & Co. 

Chas. Farre & Co. 

Gustave Gibert. 

M, Duchatel. 

Fisse Thirion & Co. 

Binet Fils & Co., and others. 



very sweet and require no addition of sugar, which 
enables the manufacturers to dispense with some of 
the operations necessary in making champagne, 
which requires fermentation both in the cask and 
afterwards in the bottles. In making Sparkling St. 
Peray only one fermentation is necessary, the must 
being bottled as it comes from the presses. In years 
when the grapes contain too much sugar a little dry 
white wine is added after disgorging, which is done 
the same as in champagne. 1 his wine is of a pale 
golden color and said to be of fine flavor. It is said 
that it is so strong in alcohol, that one glass of it 
has an equal exhilerating effect of three glasses of 
champagne. This wine improves in keeping a few 
years but finally loses all of its effervescence. It is 
marketed in England, Russia, Belgium, Holland and 
Germany There is made also a wine known as 
CLARIETTE DE DIE which when newly made is 
a sweet sparkling wine, but loses all of its efferves- 
cence in about two years. At Limoux near the base 
of the Pyrenees, they make the SPARKLING BLAN- 
QUETTE, which is much favored in that section 
and usually classed with the Saint Per<iy, but does 



Most of these are located at Reims, Epernay, Ay, not compare with champagne. 
Avize, Mareuil and Rilly. Some of them do not In Germany, on the Rhine, they make success- 
ship, but sell to shippers who attach their own fully sparkling HOCK and MOSELLE very exten- 
labels. sively, both sweet and dry, the latter finding much 

All sparkling wines (of which a variety are made favor in England, 

in all producing countries of Europe and America) In Austria-Hungary are made the sparkling VOS- 

are with few exceptions made like those of Cham- LAUER, a Riesling champagne and others. It is 

pagne. In many instances men who have learnt in said that in Austria-Hungary the best sparkling 

the cellars of Champagne are usually imported where wines outside of France are made, 

an effort is being made to make effervescent wines. In Spain, Italy, Greece and Switzerland sparkling 

Some of these wines are. wines are made with varying success. 

In France: SPARKLING SAUTERNES, made In the United States we have first of all SPARK- 



THi: PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 67 

LING CATAWBA chiefly known among which in August, when the season is good, but more often 
are: The Cooks Imperial of St. Louis, the Great it does not begin until after the middle of September 
Western of New York, Gold Seal of Ohio. and lasts until October. 

The sparkling Sonoma of California (in the making When the time for harvest begins, large numbers 
of which are used grapes of foreign origin) is con- of men, women and children gather the grapes in a 
sidered by many tlie finest sparkhng wine made in similar way as described in the article on cham- 
this country and large quantities of it is shipped to pagnes; but after they are delivered at the wagon 
China, Japan, Australia, etc. they are thrown into vats and a man stamps them 

Good champagnes are of a pale straw color, but down. When this is full the load is taken to the 
not yellowish. When it is pinkish it indicates some press house where the berries are removed from 
of the coloring matter was extracted from the black ^he stalks and trodden on platforms, after which 
grapes in pressing. Dry champagne contains about grapes, husk and stems are thrown into large vats 
18 degrees of proof spirit, the sweet or liqueured whe.re they are allowed to ferment from four to six 
ones contain as high as 30 degrees and over. Grand days, according to the temperature. The must has 
vintages do not occur oftener than twice and seldom by this time lost its sweet taste and assumed that of 
more than once in ten years. Such wines if prop- wine. It is then drawn off and placed in casks, 
erly kept by laying down in a cool dry cellar will after ail that flows freely is drawn off, the mure is 
keep on improving for ten to twelve years, but alter pressed. It should not require over three days to 
that it will begin to lose its effervescence. Fine fill a cask. This is then placed in a moderate cellar 
champagne should never be iced in the glass nor to ferment and care is taken that what is lost by 
iced to the extent that they usually are, says Henry evaporation is replenished every three or four days 
Vizetelly in Facts and Hints. so that the casks are always full. In December or 

Really fine dry champagne should not be chilled January the wine is racked for the first time, then 
below fifty degrees Fahr. ; but the sweet champagnes again in April and the following September ; after 
can be iced to freezing and be most palatable. that the wine is drawn twice a year until it is bottled, 

^ which is usually done after the fourth year. 

Still Dry Wines— "France." The wines are classified into first, second, third. 

BORDEAUX. fourth and fifth growths and bear the names of the 

The finest still red wines in the world are grown estates at which they are grown, 
in a district in France known as the department of To the first growths beiong the following: 
Gironde, of which Bordeaux is the principal market Chateau Margaux 

and port from which it is exported. For this reason " Lafitte 

these wines are commonly called Bordeaux wines. " Latour 

The fact these wines are so much in demand in for- " Haut Brion 

eign markets has caused the merchants to send They lead all other red Bordeaux wines for fine 
agents to many parts of France to buy such wines ness, bouquet and body, 
as can be used as a substitute or to blend with the To the second growths belong: 
home product; this is the reason that the annual Chateau Mouton Rothschild 

exportation of Bordeaux wines is many times greater " Rouzan Segla 

than the Gironde can produce. " Rouzan Gassies 

The Gironde is divided into several provinces, " Leoville Lascases 

the principal ones of which are the Medoc, Sau- " Leoville Poyferre 

ternes and Graves. Of these, the Medoc is noted " Leoville Barton 

for its excellent red, and Sauternes and Graves for " Durfurt Vivens 

white wines. " Lascombes 

The vines which principally produce the red " Gruard Larose Sarget 

wines of the Gironde are known as the Cabernet " Gruard Larose 

Sauvignon, bearing small bluish black fruit. The " Branne Cartenac 

Franc Cabernet, a small dark berry, and the Malbec " Pichon Lonfeueville 

a dark blueish berry; the latter produces a wine so " Pichon Longueville Lalande 

dark that it is often used in mixing white wines, so " Ducru BeaucaiUou 

that many white wines are transformed into red. ^°^ " Estourne 

The time for making wine in this district begins Chateau Montrose. 



68 THE PRACTICAL 

Among the third growths are: 
Chateau Becker 
" Ferriere 
" Colon Segur 
" Desmirail 
" Lagune 
" Palmer 
" Brown 
" Malescot 
" Giscaurs 
/" La grange 
/ " Isson. 
Of Ihe fourth growths I will mention: 
Chateau St. Pierre 
" Branaire 

Talbot 
" Duhart Milon 
" Poujet 
" Rochet 
" Beycheville 
Marquis de Therme. 
The fifth growths: 

Chateau Pontet Canet 

" Batailley 
Grand Pay Lacoste 
Chateau Lynch Bages 
" " Moussas 

" Labarde 
" Mauton d'Armailhocq 
" Haut Bages 
" Tertre 
" Belgrave 
" Camensac 
Co's Labory 
Chateau Clerc Milon 
" Craizet Bages 
" Contemerle 
and many others comprising the product of nearly 
two hundred vineyards. The system of classifying 
Bordeaux wines is a very old one but was revised 
by the "Chambre Sindicale" of wine brokers in 
1855, resulting in as above listed, there having been 
but few changes since excepting the addition of 
new names. 

Other red wines of the Gironde which have high 
rating in the market are the: 
St. Emilion 
St. Martin de Mazerat 
St. Christophe 
St. Laurent 
St. Hyppolyte 
St. Etienne de Lisse. 



HOTEL STEWARD. 

The fine white wines produced in Sauternes and 
Graves are made from white grapes known as the 
Semillons and the Sauvignone. The mode of mak- 
ing these wines differs from that of the red wines 
very materially. In the first place, the grapes are 
allowed to hang on the vines until they are thor- 
oughly ripe and begin to show signs of decay of the 
husk immediately around the stem. The gatherers 
then collect them by taking the single berries only, 
such as answer the description. This makes sev- 
eral gatherings necessary, until they are all collected. 
The grapes are pressed and the must, which is ex- 
tremely sweet, is placed in casks and allowed to 
ferment in a shed, each day's vintage being kept by 
itself. The wines made from the first collection is 
called head wine, it is the sweetest; the second 
collection middle wine, and the third and subse- 
quent collections the tail wines: they are the driest. 
During fermentation the yeast is not expelled 
from the bung hole but is forced to the bottom, thus 
retaining more alcohol. 

The first growths of Sauternes and Graves white 
wines are: 

Chateau Yquem 

" La Tour Blanche 
" Peyraguey 
" Vigneau 
" Suduiraut 
" Coutet 
" Climens 
" Bayle 
'• Rieussec 
Rabaut 
The second growths are: 
Chateau Mirat 
" Doisy 
" Peyxatto 
" d'Arche 

Filhot 
" Broustet Nerac 
" Caillou 
" Sauau 
Malle 
" Romer 
" Lamothe. 

BURGUNDY.. 

These wines belong to the finest of France and in 
the middle ages were considered the standard table 
wines of notable people. 

Burgundy is situated in the middle east of France 
and is one of the oldest wine growing districts in 
Europe. The principal varieties of vines grown and 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD 69 

the Pineau and the Gamy; these are black grapes dark violet colored grape well packed: the Raus- 
from which the red Burgundies are made. The sanne and Marsanne bear small white grapes. Wine 
white grapes are Chardeney. The process of mak- making is done about the same as in Bordeaux, 
ing the wine is very much like in the Gironde dis- The red Hermitage win<:s are of a very beautiful 
trict for the red wines. The grapes are crushed color and fine boquet. 

and fermented in vats and after five or six days the Of the principal growths I will mention; 
wine is drawn off and the mure pressed, the whole 
placed in casks for final fermentation in cellars and 
is not drawn from the lees until about February. It 
requires about four years before it is ready for bot- 
tling. The principal growths of red Burgundies are: 

Romance Conti (red and white) 

Clos de Vougeot 

Chambertin (red and white) 

Richebourg 

Musigny 

La Taclie 

Clos de Tart 

Nuits St. George 

Beaujolais (red and white) 

Pommard 

Nuits 

Volney 

Beaune 

Aloxe' 

Monthelie 

Puligny 

Corton 

Macon (rtd and white) 

Meursault (red and white) 

Savlgny 

Auxey 

Bas 

Santenay — Haut 

Noley 

Cassagne 
Montrachet and Chablis are the leading white 
wines of the district. 

Where white and red wines are made from the 
same (black) grapes they proceed as in champagne, 



RED, Le Greffieux 
" La Chantalouette 
" Les Lands 
" Les Burges 

" Muret 
" Le Meal 
" Beaume 
" Les Bessas 
" Roucoule 
" Guiognieres 
" Cote Rotie 
WHITE, Clairette de Die 
Well known wines of the Department oflsereare 
RED, St. Saom 
" La Terasse 
" St. Chef 
" St. Verand 
" Ruy 
" Jarrie 
" Revention 
WHITE, those of Condrieu. 
The following are made from black grapes known 
as Terret Picpoule and Grenache; 

ROSE COLORED, Tavel (very dry) 
" " Lirac 

" " Chusclan (sweet) 

" •' St. Genies 

" " Roquemaure (dry) 

RED, Orsan (dry) 

" St. Laurent des Arabes (dry) 
Another once famous wine adjoining the above 
district is the : 

Chateauneuf du Pape. 
It is of intensely deep color, heavy bodied vith a 



by first pressing the grapes before they are vatted sweet, slightly bitterish taste 

for fermentation and the mure is placed in the vats 

afterwards. 



On the right side of the Rhone are situated the 

vineyards of St. Peray where the white dry St. Peray 

is made; as also the sparkling wine of the same 

name, mention of which was made in a previous ar- 

This section is along the left border of the River tide on champagnes. 

Rhone in the department of Drome. The wines 

grown there are of superior quality and many of 



The Wines of the Cotes du Rhone. 



The Wines of the South of France, Compris- 

. , , r o J ine: the Departments of Herault, Card, 

them compare favorab.y with those of Bordeaux. or 

The best among them are the red and white Hermi- ^ude and Pyrenees Orientals. 

tage, made from grapes known as the "Petite Sirrah" The wines produced in this section are mostly 

for red wines, and the Raussanne and Marsanne for sweet, containing a great deal of alcohol, both from 

white wine. The Petit Sirrah bears a very sweet, nature (the grapes being very sweet when ripe) and 



TO THE PRACTICAL 

by the addition of spirits at different stages to fortify 
them against spoiling. The grapes grown principally 
are the Grenache nolr, producing a large bluf»ish- 
black fruit; Muscat, Maccabeo, Malvoise and Ran- 
cio, the wines made from these bearing the same 
name. 

Dry wine is made from the Carignane. 

Muscat wine is made by placing the grapes on 
trays in the sun until they begin to appear like rais- 
ins; they are then crushed and pressed, which gives 
a must almost like a syrup, which is placed in bar- 
rels to ferment. The barrels are not entirely filled. 
After fermentation the wine is racked, becoming 
clear after the second year and has a decided 
muscat boquet. 

In many other instances the wines, such as Mal- 
voise, the grapes are handled with the greatest care 
to prevent them from becoming bruised, which would 
cause them to lose much flavor. The must from 
these is mixed with some wine spirits and allowed 
to ferment. After completion the wine is racked 
and more spirits added. A dry Malvoise is made 
by allowing a full fermentation, no spirits added. 

The other sweet or liqueur wines are made by 
placing the must in pans over a fire until a scum 
rises, which is removed. The juice is then allowed 
to cool, afterward put in barrels with the addition 
of spirits and is racked every four weeks for six 
months, thus preventing fermentation. 

Still another method is that of making the Gren- 
ache, where fermentation is suppressed by frequent 
racking, sulphuring the barrels very strongly and 
adding a little spirits at each racking, no yeast being 
allowed to remain, the wine being racked as soon as 
any has accumulated. 

Most noted among the wines grown in this sec- 
tion are: 

RED, St. Georges (sweet) 

" St. Drezery " 

" St. Chrystol 

" Vin Rancio " 

" Picardin (dry) 

" St. Gilles, spirituous (dry) 

" Langlade (sweet) 

" Florae " 

" Costiers " 

" Uchard " 

" Jonquieres " 

" Vauvert " 

" Ledenon " 

" Roussillon " 

(dry) 



HOTEL STEWARD, 




RED Opoul 


(sweet) 


" Salces 


•' 


'• Monnai 


" 


" Estargel 


■• 


" Frontignan 


" 


" Rivesaltes 


" 


. 


(dry) 


" Malvoise 


(sweet) 



" Maccabeo 
" Grenache " 

RED AND WHITE, Muscat (sweet) 
WHITE, Clairettes 

Blanquette de Limoux " 

(dry) 
" Lunel (sweet) 
Large quantities of the sweet red wines are ex 
ported as vintage Port. 

The alcoholic strength of the different growths of 
wines of France are: 

Bordeaux from 133^ to 17 per cent, proof spirit. 
Burgundy (red) of the finer growths contain from 
19 to 24 per cent, proof spirit; while the fine white 
Burgundy contains from 20 to 30 per cent. 

Hermitage wines contain from 21 to 25 per cent, 
spirits. 

White St. Peray as high as 27 per cent. 
Some of the wines of the South of France contain 
as low as 10 and from that up to 30 per cent, of proof 
spirits. 



Germany. 



While the wine growing area of Germany is quite 
small compared with other countries, it ranks with 
the first in the quality of some of its white wines 
produced along the banks of the Rhine. They are 
famous the world over and no high class wine list 
is complete without either a Steinberger Cabinet a 
Johannisberger Schloss, or a Marcobrunner. 

The system of raising and making wine here is the 
same as m Bordeaux, and the principal vines grown 
are the Riesling, Traminer, Burger, Grosser Reusch- 
ling and Rulander. The black Burgundy grape 
Pineau are grown for red wine, but very little of the 
latter is made in Germany; they make mostly white 
wines. 

The principal growths of the section known as 
the Rhinegan are. 

White Steinberger 

Johannisberger 
" Marcobrunner 
" Rauenthaler 
" Ruedesheimer 
" Kiedricher Grafenberg 



THE PRACTICAL 
White Rothenberger 
Geisenheimer 
" Hattenheimer 
" Hallgartener Auslese 
" Schiersteiner 
" Winkeler 
" Oestriclier Auslese 
Erbacher 
Eibingen 

EltviUer Sonnenberg 
Red Assmamshauser 
" Ingelheimer 
" Heidesheimer 
" Kreutzberger 
" Dattenberger 
" Walportzheimer 
" Ahrweiler 
" Bodendorfer 
At Hochheitn the celebrated wine by that name is 
grown. It was one of the first Rhine wines known 
in England, where they applied to it the term Hock, 
by which all Rhine wines are now called, or rather, 
miscalled. 

The principal wines from Hochheim on the Main 
are the ; 

White Hochheimer 
Neroberger 
" Kostheimer 
Wickerer 
In the Rhine and Nahe Valley, well known growths 
are the: 

White Itzsteiner 

Schlossberger 
Scharlachberger 
Kausenberger 
Norheimer 
" Monzingener 
Ebernburger 
" Bosdenheimer 
In the Rhine Hesse section the best known wines 

are: 

White Liebfraumilch 

Niersteiner 

" Laubenheimer 

" Nackenheimer 

" Bodenheimer 

" Oppenhimer 

The greater part of the above wines appear in the 

market as Niersteiner. 

In Rhine Bavaria they raise the: 

White Deidesheimer 

Duerkheimer 

" Forster 

" Koenigsbacher, etc. 



HOTEL STEWARD. 7' 

On the Main are the: 
Steinwein 
Leistenwein 
Moenchsberger 
Aschaffenburger 
White Eschendorfer 
Holburger 
Homburger 
" Hoersteiner 
" Karlburger 

Klingenberger and many others 
The best known Moselle wines are: 
White Berncastler doctor 
Braunberger 
" Piesporter 

Graach 
" Josephshofer 
" Thiergaertner 
Odelsberger 
Olewig Neuberger 
" Zeltinger 
The Saar Valley produces the: 
Kanzemer 
Wiltinger 
Oberemmeler 
In Baden the following wines are best known* 
White Markgraefler 

Ihringer Auslese 
Clevener 
" Klingelberger 
Hubberger 
Kirchberger 
Hemsberger and 
Red Affenthaler 
Alsace Loraine: 

White Rappoltsweiler 
Hunaweiler 
Osterberger 
" Zahnacker 

Sultzmelt 
" ChateauSalins 
Longeville. etc. 
In this section they also make a straw wine, in 
the making of which the grapes are placed on straw 
after gathering them and left there until quite dry, 
almost like raisins, and then pressed. This makes 
a very sweet, but only partially fermented wine. 

Auslese wines are made from over ripe grapes, 
the harvesters carefully picking all over ripe berries 
from the bushes and placing them in a separate re- 
ceptacle as they gather the crop. These over ripe 
berries when pressed give a very heavy must similar 
to that described in making sauterne wines and 



72 



gives a rather sweet liquorous product. 

The Steinberger cabinet wines are made in a sep- 
arate hall from the balance, the main presses being 
in an old chapel of what was formerly the Closter 
Erbach. A short distance from this is the press 
hall for the cabinet wines, and close by is built the 
so called cabinet, a cellar or vault above ground in 
which all the fine wines of this vineyard are kept. 
For this reason they are called Cabinet wines. 

The alcoholic strength of the leading German 
wiiv>?3 range between 15 and 25 degrees of proof 
Spirit. 

Wines of Austria. 

Wine growing and making is an important Indus 
try in many parts of Austria, but it is owing to the 
fact that in some instances the wines are very poor 
and will not last, that most of them are consumed 
at home. In some sections very good wines are 
produced, especially in the southern part of Austria 
the red wines are so dark and full bodied that when 
mixed with an equal part of water they still have 
the color and strength of urdinary Bordeaux wines, 
while in the less favorable sections they are ex- 
tremely poor, rasping the tongue like the roughest 
cider. "H. Vizetelly in Wines of the World." 

The principal grapes grown are the blue Portugese 
and are said to have been imported from Portugal 
The wines grown in Lower Austria belong to the 
better qualities and are well known throughout 
Europe, the leading ones of which are: 
Red and white Voslauer 
White Goldeck 

Gumpoldskirchner 
Klosterneuburger 
" Weidlinger 
" Nussdorfer 
" Grinzinger 
•' Perchtolsdorfcr 
" Brunner and 
Riesling 
Of the above varieties the Voslauer is the best 
known. Ihe market for these wines is Russia, 
Turkey. Egypt, Germany and England. The general 
character of Red Voslauer is like Bordeaux but 
stronger and rather more sweetish, while the white 
somewhat resembles white Burgundy. The white 
wines are made mostly from the Riesling grape and 
most of the wines are ready for bottling after three 
years. 

Other wines of good quality are: 
White Mailberger 
" Haugsdorfer 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

White Guntramsdorfer 
" Enzerdorfer 

" Strausser 



" Shiebbs 
Red Matzner 
" Merkensteiner 

Falkensteiner and 
" Schrattenthaler 
The principal growths of Styria are first the 
White Lullenberger 
Wallershack 
Kaisersberger 
Grunauer 
" Jerusalemer 

Radkersburger 
" Schmitsberger 
" Rittersberger 

Eichberger and others 
The above wines are made from the Malvasia and 
Mosler grapes and are rather sweet and syrupy, 
with a fine spirituous flavor. Some of the other 
wines are : 

Red and white Marburger 
Red Gonobitzer 
The Styrian Schiller wines (so called because of 
having a light red color) are: 
Hochenburger 
Schwanberger 
Mr. Vizetelli says there are some two hundred 
different kinds of wines grown in Styria which differ 
in flavor, quality and time of ripening. 

The wines of German Tyrol are on the average 
similar to the Bordeaux. I will name the 
Red St. Magdealene 
Leitacher 
" Hoertenberger 
Red and white Salurner 
White Terlauer 
" Eppaner 
Kalteier 
" Seewcin 

Schloss Rametzer 
Kuechelberger 
Italian Tyrol produces large quantities of fine red 
wines from grapes known as the Burgundy, Cabernet 
and Portugese "imported" and Rassara, Gropello 
di Revo, Pavana and others "natives." Some of the 
wines of this section are the: 
Red Isera 
" Calliand 
" Ala 
" Rovereto 
" Ngrara 



THE F^RACTICAL 
Red Mezzolombardo 
" San Michele 
" Maizemino 
The names of some of the Moravian wines are . 
White Poleschowitz 
" Pollau 
" Bratelsbrunn 

Klentnitz 
" Baumoehl 
" Rauschenbruch 
Sctiattau 
Of Boliemia : 

Red Melnicker 

Red and white Labin 

Trogsiaver 

' Berkowitzer 

White Cerneseker 
" Trojer 
In Illyria they produce a deep red full bodied 
wine known as Sittersdorfer : others: 

Stadtberger, a Schiller (light red) wine 
Bigama, golden 
St. Cancian, white 
And the Picolit, a thick sweet straw wine, the 
latter is quite a favorite in Turkey and Southern 
Russia, to where il is extensively shipped. 
Near Trieste are grown the: 

Prosecco, reddish yellow straw wine 
Merzaminos, dark red 
Refascos " 

Piantadella " " 
Wines from this section do not grow old, most of 
them being used when less than a year old. 

Dalmatia produces some very good wines ranking 
above the average of Austrian wines. The grapes 
principally grown are mostly of Italian origin. Some 
of them are the Kadarka, the Crelenjack, the Plavec 
and Madrulj. All of them dark varieties. Among 
the white are the" Vugava and Maraschino, a very 
sweet grape from which a sweet liqueur wine is 
made by that name (but this must not be mistaken 
for the liqueur by that name which is a distillation 
of cherries.) 

The Vugava wine is of a bright golden color, 
swe and spirituous. 

Cerljenacer, color and taste like Malaga 
Zlatarizza, rosecolor 
Madrina, deep red, sweet 

Rusivica 

Muscat di Rosa, white 
The latter from the Almissa Muscat grape, which 
gives delightful sweet wine of delicate rose scent. 



HOTEL STEWARD. 



73 



The Dalmatian wines are the most spirituous of all 
Austrian wines, in some years containing over thirty 
percent, of proof spirit, the strength of the other 
wines ranging from as low as 12 to as high as 28 per 
cent, of proof spirits. 

Hung-aria. 

The wines of Hungaria have been renowned for 
many centuries. History states that the Romans 
introduced the cultivation of the vine about the be- 
ginning of the Christian era. Of the many excellent 
varieties produced, the Takey and Rust wines are 
the most famous, the former commanding a higher 
price than any other wine in the world. 

Takey wine is made from several kinds of grapes, 
the Furmint or white Hungarian, the Weissling, the 
white Takey and white Malvasia. The grapes re- 
main on the vine until they are in a shrivelled con- 
dition, and when gathered the perfectly dried 
berries are selected and placed in tubs with per- 
forated bottoms. The grapes exude from their own 
weight upon each other. The drippings pass into a 
receptacle placed under the tubs. The liquid so 
collected contains a large amount of sugar. This is 
called essence. It passes through a very slow fer- 
mentation and contains but little alcohol. It must 
be very old before being ready for market, and is 
not considered fully matured until about thirty 
years old in the barrel. 

Takey Ausbruch is made by adding to the must 
of the plump rip,i grape a certain per cent, of dry 
berries. The wine made without any addition of 
dry berries is called ordinary wine; and where the 
grapes are pressed as they come from the vineyard 
(dry and plump together) is called natural wine 
"Szaiiiorodni. " 

The imperial Takey grows at a small town named 
Tarczal and ne^'er appears in trade. 

Among the »vines of the first class, I will mention' 
Takey, essence, sweet white 

" Ausbruch " " 

Ruster " " 

Menes Magyarat Ausbruch, sweet, red and white 
Bakacsonyer Bratenwein white 
Somlauer 

Szamorodnyer " " 

Neszeling, table and dessert wines, white 
Villany, like Burgundy, red 
Adelsberger, dinner and dessert wine, red 
Erlauer, light bodied red 
Szegzardi, table wine " 
Baraya, dinner wine " 



74 



Stembruch, dinner wine, white 
Ermellicker. Bratenwein " 
Eisenberger, dinner 
Odenberger, sweetish " 

Somogy, red and white 
Simonthurn, sweetish, red 
Meneser, Ausbruch "like Port," red 
Menesch, white 
Magyarater, white 
Karlowitzer, red 

Tetenyer, slightly sweet, deep red 
and many others. 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

is done to prevent the wine from becoming sour 



while still imperfectly fermented. 

The barrels in which the must is placed are never 
entirely filled, but there is always a vacuum of sev- 
eral gallons. In the winter the wine is racked from 
the lees and afterward a certain amount of spirits 
added to each butt, the fine wines receiving much 
less than the common ones at this time. To the 
latter class Vin de Color is added, which is a quan- 
tity of must boiled down to one-fifth its original 
bulk in a copper kettle; this makes a brown liquid 
almost the consistency of thin molasses, with an 



The alcoholic strength of Hungarian wines aver- unpleasant bitter taste. Quantities of this is added 

ages from i8 to 28 per cent, proof spirits. Takey until the wine is of the desired color. 

has from 20 to 25 per cent. Sherry is naturally a dry wine, but as a large per 

_ cent, of the export trade demands some sweet and 

WmeS of Spam. some slightly sweet sherry, Dulce ir5 added in var- 

In Spain they do not have cellars in which to make ious proportions. This is a preparation made from 

and keep wine, but instead they have large build- the must of over-ripe grapes checked in its fermen 

ings above ground with doors and windows. In tation by the addition of a large quantity of strong 

these "Bodegas," as they are called, the wine is spirits with cane sugar. 

made and kept until it is sold. The wine has no High class sherries are seldom shipped out of 

protection from the sudden and sometimes extreme Spain. They use them principally in improving the 

changes of temperature; it is no wonder, then, that new or more inferior qualities, which are exported, 

many a butt becomes sick and has to be sent to the The fine sherries are made of separately selected 

distillery to be turned into alcohol, which is the grapes, which are placed on mats to dry in the sun 

case in that country. until they become shriveled and then pressed. This 

While wines are grown to a g^eat extent all over class of wine is neither sulphured, colored nor 

Spain, the sections where this industry forms a sweetened. 

most important item in their source of revenue are The terms used for the different stages of the 

Jerez, Manzanilla, Malaga, Granada, Valencia and wine is as follows: 

Terragona. Of these Jerez heads the list in produc- Wine aged i year is "Vin dun Anno" or 'An- 

ing fine sherries. In the other districts named they nadas.' 

make, besides sherries, also white and red wines From the 5th to the 8th year it is "Fino." 



From 8th to 14th year it becomes Amontillado. 

14th " 2oth " " " Oloroso. 

They are graded according to quality as follows: 
Palma is fine and dry. 

Double Palma ;same as above, but more developed. 
Treble Palma: the higliest grade, best of Amon 
tillado. 

Palo Cortado is O'cioso, having developed a fine 



both sivect and dry, some of them resembling those 
of Bordeaux. 

Of the principal varieties of grapes from which 
sherry is made are the Mantuo Castellano, prolific 
large berries; the Polomino Medium, green color; 
the Perruno, small yellow, and the greenish white 
Pedro Jimenez. 

In making wine they first place all the ripe grapes 
in a lagar (which is a trough of wood in which the perfume. 

wine is pressed-) and dust them over with plaster of Doable Palo Cortado: finer than the above, 
paris, which has the effect to neutralize the acid con- Treble Palo: the finest Oloroso, 
tained in the grapes. After this they are pressed. Raya is the third quality. It is in its natural state 
The weaker musts are then sulphured, which is done a good dry wine and is mostly prepared for exporta- 
by filling a vat in the top of which is a sieve tion to England and America, 
through which the must flows after being poured into Dos Rayas is a common wine, 
the vat by a pump from below: the must flowing Tres Rayas, very poor, not fit to sell, 
through the sieve spreads it like a shower and Besides sherries other wines of good quality are 
causes it to freely absorb the sulphurous acid. This the: 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 



75 



Gold colored Pajerete, full flavored, sweet 
Red Tinto do Rota, natural dry. 

" Malaga, dry and sweet 

" Tarragona, like Port 

" Val de Penas, dry sub bitter 
White Val de Penas, sweet 
Red Malmsey 

" Muscat 

" Valencia, sweet, used for Port 

" Vin Raucio, dry natural 

" Ojo de Gallo, light aromatic 
White Imperial Blanco, light aromatic 



color, but with age changes to a brownish purple. 

The section known to produce the finest Port is 
the Alto Douro, and comprises the mountain slopes 
bordering on the Douro River. In some places the 
hills on which the vineyards are located are so steep 
that it is necessary for men to carry the must, after 
being extracted, to lower and more accessible places 
in goat skins; it is then placed on the backs of don- 
keys who carry it to such places still farther down, 
where wagons are in waiting to take it to the Adegas. 
The soil is so poor and so little of it that nothing 
else could be raised but grapes: sometimes even 



Alcoholic strength of Spanish wines are: the un- they die for want of moisture in warm weather, 

fortified from 22 to 28 per cent. ; others with spirits The principal varieties of grapes grown are the 

added range from 30 to 37 per cent, proof spirits. Alvarelhao, the Bastardo, the Toariga, the Gouveio 

In concluding the subject of Wines of Spain it and the Souzao. As stated above the general treat- 
may be well for me to explain the use of the term ment of wines is the same as in Spain. The lagares 
5c5/(rra which we occasionally meet with, as in quoting (in which the grapes are placed to be crushed by 
"Private Solera," referring to quality. the bare feet of men and are left to ferment before 

After the wine has passed through the stage of extracting) are principally of stone about six yards 

development, we will say, some of it is Palma, square. While it is said that the system of wine 

double Palma, Palo or Raya. The dealer or mer- making could be improved upon in the Oporto dis- 

chant separates them; he takes the Palma, or, rather, trict the fact remains that pure old Port wine is 

Amontillado, and places them with others which he known to be one of the most wholesome stimulants 

has of the same quality ; and the same with all the for feeble persons. 

other classes. Now if he has a hundred butts of Besides Port wines Portugal produces large quan- 

Amontillado and some one buys twenty-five, he titles of other white and red varieties, many of them 

draws an equal quantity from each of the hundred dry similar to Bordeaux, but very little of them 

butts to make up the twenty five and then goes to shipped abroad on their own merits, principally be- 

the nursery, Criadera (the part of the Bodega where cause they will not stand travel. I will mention 

his wine lies until it shows quality) and selects those of 

twenty-five butts; or, if he has none of his own, The Province of Estramadura, the 



then he buys of some other grower, some of the 
same quality, and proceeds to refill the butts from 
which he has drawn, thus keepmg his Solera in tact. 
They never sell an entire butt if it can be avoided, 
nor do they empty them. This has the effect to de- 
stroy the effect or individuality of any one year's 
vintage, the quality of the wine depending entirely 
on the kind and quality of grapes. 

Wines of Portugal. 

As in Spain wine is made and stored above sur- 
face, but the buildings are called Adegas instead 
of Bodegas. The system of making wine is also 
very much like the Spanish. 

As a wine producing country Portugal holds a 
most interesting place, owing to the famous Port 
which has found its way to the markets of the world, 
England and its colonies being the largest consum- 
ers. Port is made both white and red; the former 
is mostly shipped to northern Europe, Russia and 
Scandinavia. The red when first made is of a deep 



White, Lissubon, dry 

Muscat Calcavella, sweet 
Bucellas, good table wine. 
The country surrounding Lissabon 
White, Setural 

Terma, light bodied, fruity 
Red, Colares 

" Barra-aBarra 

" Faro 

'• Lamego 

" Salarem 

" Moncaon 
Ruby tint, Monsao, slightly astringent 
Rose " tart 

Golden " sweet, acidulous 

Red, Areas, slightly sweet and acid 

" Lamalonga " " aromatic 

" Gouvio, full flavored 

" MalvaS'ia 

" Conaifesto 

" Mouriseo 



Next to France, Italy is probably the most import- 
ant wine growing country of Europe and some very 



Wines of Madeira. 



76 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

Topaz, Villa Flor, spirituous, aromatic, both WineS of Italy 

dry and sweet 
Red, Lavardio, dry 

" Azambuja, full bodied, tart, spirituous 

r, , _ ,, , ,^ . fine varieties are produced there. The system of 

Pale, Torres Vedras, soft, sweet *^ ■' 

Ruby, Calvel, balmy perfume making wine in most localities is similar to that of 

And many others. France and Germany to which large quantities are 

The alcoholic strength of the wines of Portugal exported. 

varies from as low as eleven to forty per cent, proof Some very fine v/ines of Northern Italy are those 

spirits. of the district of Piedmont, where they are called 

by the name of the grape from which it is made, 
some of which are : 

The wines of the island of Madeira are no less Red Barbera Table wine, dry 

famous than tiie Port, and have held their promi- " Bonarda " ' 

nence for several centuries. The same method of Fresa " ' 

wine making is followed there as in Portugal, the " Grignolino " " 

finest vineyard on the island belonging to the Royai '• Dolcetto '' ' 

Family of that country. It is a very delightful wine. Wine made from a mixture of grapes is called 

somewhat resembling Port, and their color is amber Uvaggio 

and pale red. Red Borolo is a heavy full bodied wine of excel 

The grapes from which Madeira is made are the lent quality. 

Malvasia, imported from Candia and Cyprus Islands. Red Nebbiolo Secco, dry table wine 

It is said that they make the best wine. Other grapes Lombardy wines, considered of rather poor qual- 

are the Vidogna, the Bagoual, the Mascatcl and ity. Well known growths from that section are: 

Alicante, all bearing white fruit. The black are Red Corvino dry 

the Batardo, the Negramal, the Ferral and the " Malvasia " 

Tinta, all but the latter being used in making white " Erbametto "' 

wine. In former years the custom for improving the " Bordagno " 

wine was to ship it as baiiast on a long journey to White Casalmaggiore, dry 

■warm climates, to the East or West Indies, this liav- Red Sassella, dry 

ing the effect to hasten the development of the wine. In Venetia we find the following wines enjoying a 

Such wines would then be quoted in the market as good reputation. 

Madeira twice passed the line: Madeira East India, Red CorvinI, dry, rather harsh 

etc. At present they use heated buildings with " Valpolicelio, dry, pleasant table wine 

glass roofs, called estufas. The wine \9 fortified Red and white Prosecco, dry 

with spirits at different stages without which it " " " Piccoiit dolce sweet 

would be too weak to keep or travel The follow- White Montu 

ing are the names best known in trade " Aleonzo 

Buai Red Vini da Pasto 

Maivasia ''■ Cesena 

Scrciai '' Fori; 

Verdeiho " Rimini 

Produced at Cama do LoboA, Campanario. San The finest \vines in Italy are said to be grown in 

Roque and Funchai the latter being the principal Tuscany, some of the best among them are . 

port. Brilliant purple Montepulciano, spirituous aro- 



Wines of The Canaries 



matic, rather sweet. 
Red Asti, dry 

Formerly a great deal of the wine grown there ' ChiancI, dry, delightful table wine 

was marketed as Madeira, but now they are princi- *' Pomino ' ' " 

pally sold as sherries to Central America and Brazil. " Artimino ' ' " 

It is on these Islands where the once famous Sack. '• Carmignano, dry, delightfui table wine 

a light sweet wine was raised, the expression having Red and white Montalcino, dry, delightful table 

been taken from Sec or Secco. wine 



THE F'RACTICAL 
Red Ripa, dry, delightful table wine 

" Poggiosecco, sweet 
White Nippozzono, dry 
Altomino " 

Castelruggero " 
In the South of Italy the far-famed 

Red and white Lacryma Christi, sweet 
Red Falerno, rather sweet 

" La Cryma Tiberii, rather sweet 
" La Cryrra di Casteilamare 
White Capri bianco, dry like sauterne 
Baja 
" Furia d'Ischia 
'■ Capo di Miseno 
Falerno Faustiana 
and many other sweet and dry varieties. • The La 
Cryma Christi is extensively made into sparkling 
wine and is said to be very popular in that country 
as such. 

In Sicily many good wines are produced of which 
the best known are the 

White Ma/sala, sweet, like Madeira 
'• Malvasia " 
" Moscato di Stramboli 
Red Marsala, dry 

Malmsey 
Amber color Villa Solto, like sherry 
San Sidero " " 

" Amareno " " 

Red tawney Mont Matrissa, tonical flavor 

" brilliant Santa Venera, soft, pleasant 
Amber, Dacarella, sweet, sharp 
Deep amber Cavallaro, dry 
" " Albanello, slightly sweet, sharp 

" Alcantara, spirituous pungent 
The alcoholic strength of the wines of Italy are 
from 22 to 24 degrees proof spirits in the North to 
as high as 29 to 30 in the South. 

Wines of Switzerland. 

The best wines in Switzerland are grown at Neuf- 
chatel ; they are the: 

Ruby color Cortaillod, dry like Burgundy 
Faverge " " " 

Boudry " " " 

" " Concise 

" " Colombier " " " 

From the Canton of Vaud the: 
White Deselay, fine, strong, aromatic • 
" St. Saphorin, dry 
'• Chebres, 
" La Cote 



HOTEL SIEWARU. jj 

Among other rich wines are the: 

Red St. Prex, dry, highly spirituous 
" Salvaquin " " " 

'• Gringet 
Gold colored Aigle, dry. sub acidulous agreeable 
" " Yvorne " " " 

" " Glacier, rich liqueur wine 

Red Visp, dry, full bodied 

" Baillio 

" Oberlander, dry 
" Costamser, " 

White Completer " 
" Sieblingener " 
Red Hallauer 
" Karthauser 
and others. The system of wine making is the same 
as in France and Germany. The alcoholic strength 
of Swiss wines ranges from 10 to 25 per cent, proof 
spirits. 

Wines of Greeoe. 

Greece occupies a mo.-,t interesting place among 
wine growing countries. In most instances the 
cellars are level with the ground, like in Spain, but 
the French system of wine making is most general. 
Owing to the semi-tropical climate great care is re- 
quired to prevent formation of acetic acid. The 
white wines must be pressed as rapidly as possible; 
and in making red wines the skins must be kept 
under the surface of the must, and, as far as pos- 
sible, the air excluded. 

Resin is applied to all wine made for home use. 
It is said that this is done to make the wine a pro- 
tective against malaria fever; but the wines for 
export are unresined, especially those grown in the 
Islands Santorin. Cephalonia, Zante and the penin- 
sula of Morea. I will mention some of the best 
knovi'n and most favored varieties: 

St. Elie, pale, original flavor resembling somewhat 
fine Amontillado 

Hymettus, rich ruby color. Burgundy flavor 
Hymettus. white, " " like Sauterne 
Noussa, red " " dry fruity 

Kephisia, red and white, decided boquet, deli- 
cate and dry 
Patras, color and flavor like fine Port 
Patras, white like Rhine wine 
Mavrodaphne, a liqueur wine 
Come, pale red, sweetish 
Sautorin, red, becomes topoz with age 
Night wine, a poetical turn for St. Elie 
Sauto wine, delicious muscat made from partly 
dried grapes like straw wine; made in pur- 



78 THE PRACTICAL 

pie and white 
La Cryma Cliristi, delicious, sweet like wine of 
same name in Italy 
The alcoholic strength of the wines from Greece 
ranges from 15 to 26 degrees proof spirits. 

Excellent sparkling wines are also made in that 
country. 

Wines of Russia. 

The wine production of Russia is very limited and 
is confined to the southern part, along the Black 
Sea; though it is said that in Caucasia wine has 
been produced for ages past and that the wines of 
Europe have their origin there. The best wine is 
produced in Crimea. The liqueur-wines are of a 
delicious taste and boquet, and the red dry wines 
of a beautiful color and all contain a high per cent. 
of alcohol. 

Sparkling wines like champagne are also made. 

Vines principally grown there now are from Bor- 
deaux, Burgundy, tlie Rhine, Austria and Hungaria. 

The wines are named after the grape from which 
they are produced, like Sauterne, Burgundy, Ries- 
ling, Tokay, etc. The alcoholic strength of Russian 
wines averages from 14 to 25 per cent, of proof 
spirits. As a rule the} do not fortify wines in that 
section. 

Wines of Turkey and Roumania. 

Roumania produces some very good wines on the 
southern slopes of the Carpathian Mountains, re- 
sembling in quality the Hungarian and Southern 
Austrian product.s, being mostly white, of good rep- 
utation for delicacy of flavor and boquet. 

Best known varieties: 
White Croznovano 
Red Vigue de Monsieur 
" Jassy-Nicorestic 

Dealul Mare, Tohanic Scl.arata and others. 

Although the Koran prohibits the use of wine, 
there is nevertheless considerable produced in Tur- 
key, its climate being most favorably suited forwine 
making;and beforeMohammedanism took possession 
of the country centuries ago, in fact about the be- 
ginning of the Christian Era, the Romans derived 
large quantities of their best wines from what is 
now Turkey, especially the Islands of Cyprus, Crete 
or Candia and Malta. 

But very little of the^wines made there reach the 
outside market. One reason for this is that in the 
making of wine they have the custom of coating 
their wine vessels with resin, and also add mastic 
and turpentine to the must, which they claim is pre- 



HOTEL STEWARD, 
ventative against lung troubles; this gives it a most 
disagreeable flavor and a foreigner would consider 
it unfit to drink. This applies principally to conti- 
nental Turkey. 

Some of the wines produced on the Islands are 
quite pleasant. The industry is confined principally 
to the Christian population. The old fashioned 
coned shaped vessel is still used, which is partially 
buried in the ground. 

In Candia is where the wines extolled by ancient 
historians, Diodorus and others, are grown. Some 
of them are : 

Topez, colored Passum, sweet 

" " Pramnian Malvasia, sweet 

Fine Malmseys and Muscat wines are also grown 
on this Island. 

On the Island of Rhodes grows the wine which 
was much favored by Byron, called Samian. It is a 
muscat. On Seiv grows the wine which Pliny praised 
over eighteen centuries ago. The wines grown near 
Smyrna and Jerusalem very much resemble rich 
Muscadines. 

From Mt. Lebanon comes the: 

Red Vin doux Rosu, sweet rose tinted 
Vino d'Oro, bright dry wine. 

The Wines of Persia. 

The wines best known in ancient times in Persia 
were of Ariana, Bactriana, Hycrania and Margiana, 
grown on the slopes south of the Caspian. But the 
best there at the present time are those of Shiraz 
and Ferdistan. The wines in that country are made 
in amphoral shaped vases holding a little more than 
a hogshead, glazed both in and outside, and are 
covered with mutton tallow. When ready for use 
it is put in large glass Piasks, using wax and pressed 
cotton instead of a cork for a stopper. The wine 
dealers often mix Raki and saffron or extract of 
hemp to make it more quickly intoxicating; they 
also perfume the wine. 

The best known wines of Persia are: 
Red and white Shiraz, sweet 

" " " Ferdistan " 

" " " Haneadan " 

" " " Tabris 

" " " Teller and 

" " " Kasbin. 

V/ines of Africa. 

It is said that before the advent of the Mohamme 
dan religion, wine was extensively produced along 
the entire North coast of Africa, but since then and 
up to the time that France began colonizing Algiers 



THE PRACTICAL 
and Tunis, the industry was entirely destroyed. 
Now, however, the Frencli are raising considerable 
quantities of good wines, principally from vines 
brought there from the South of France, the pioduct 
resembling that of the mother country. 

In Morocco what little wine is made is done prin- 
cipally by Jews. They apply the system similar to 
that of Southern Spain. Grapes are said to grow 
larger and sweeter there than most anywhere else 
The wine is kept in large jars or vases and in goat 
skins. 

In ancient times the Nile Valley produced large 
quantities of wine, considerable of which was ship- 
ped to Rome. They were those of Arsinoe, Mendas, 
Koptos and Mareotis; but since the reign of Islam 
only grapes and raisins are raised. 

In Cape of Good Hope some very good wines are 
made. The industry began almost with the coloniz- 
ing under the Dutch, about the year 1650. They 
imported from different European countries the 
finest vines as well as expert vintners; the result 
was that for many years the Cape wines which found 
their way to the markets in Europe were much 
sought and brought good prices; but of late years, 
owing to large production and changes in English 
tariff laws, prices have fallen to a normal value. 
The principal wines produced are Sherry, Port, Ma- 
deira, Frontigiiac (so called for the reason the same 
class grape used and a similar method pursued in 
the making as in the countries from which the vine 
was brought); also large quantities of Cape Hock is 
made. But the most renowned from that section 
are the red and white Constancia, a sweet liqueur 
wine, and the Pontac, fruity and dry. 

Wines of Australia. 

Vine culture in Australia is of comparatively re- 



HOTEL STEWARD 79 

cent date. Until the year 1840 the industry was 
not known there. At that time, however, vines were 
imported from France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Por- 
tugal and of the best from other wine producing 
countries, by the colonies, namely: Victoria, New 
South Wales, Queensland, South and West Austra- 
lia. Since then the industry has grown rapidly and 
with gratifying results. The wines made there are 
of superior quality and many of them have gained 
considerable recognition of importance in European 
markets. Red and white, dry and sweet liqueur, as 
well as some sparkling varieties are produced which 
are in most instances named after the vine or the 
locality from which they were imported. 
The wines most favorably spoken of are the: 
Red Glenpora, dry 
" Hermitage, dry like wine of same name in 

France like Medoc 
" Cabernet dry 
" Burgundy 
" Irrewang " 

" Kapunda, resembling joung port 
" Yering dry delicate 
" Sunbury " 
" Matavo, dry like port 
Tawney red Beaumont, soft, sweet, spirituous 

" Tintara, strong alcoholic 
White Riesling, dry like Rhine wine 
Rich golden Pedro Jimenez, dry, pleasant 
Light " Temprano, dry soft 
White Highercombe dry, sub acid 

' Auldana ' like Rhine wine 

" Carwarra " " Sauterne 

" Muscat 
The average alcoholic strength of Australian wines 
ranges from 16 to 28 per cent, proof spirits. 



3o THE PRACllCAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

INTERESTING SELECTIONS FROM THE WINE LIST OF A DIRECT IMPORTER. 



In completing the article on the Wines of the Old 
World, and before starting on the American wines, 
I think it may be of interest to many readers to re- 
produce at this time the wholesale wine-list of a 
direct importer. The information contained therein 
is of value, and in printing it I take pleasure in mak- 
ing the following acknowledgment. 

« * 
By courtesv of Mr. H. V. Bemis, president of the 
BemisRichelieu Wine Company of Chicago, we pre- 
sent the wholesale wine-list of the famous Richelieu 
wine cellars as stocked in 1890, the wines having 
been selected in Europe by Mr. Bemis, who is an 
acknowledged connoisseur, and whose opinion on 
all matters pertaining to choice wines has brought 
him the regard and friendship of notable people in 
both herriispheres. 

* # 
THE ART OF DRINKING WINE. 

To know how to drink wine belongs only to a cul- 
tivated taste; to know how to tempt guests to in- 
dulge in it with pleasure, belongs only to the host 
gifted with rare tact and artistic discrimination. 

A painting from the hand of a master must be 
placed in a favorable light, and with appropriate sur- 
roundings to set off its excellence; the most beauti- 
ful woman despises not the art of enhancing her 
charms by harmonious auxiliaries or by judicious 
contrasts. 

There is, in the same manner, an art and a science 
in drinking celebrated wines. 

After studying the menu, one can decide on a 
choice of wines, and on the order in which they are 
to be served. 

The following rules should be observed. 

With fish: White wines. With meats: Rich red wines 
At the conclusion of the repast: The oldest red wines. 
After the dessert: White, sweet and sparkling wines. 

In regard to the gradation of red wines, the rule 
is to commence with the newest and least celebrated. 

We shall see how these rules are followed by a 
generous liver: 

A few spoonfuls of soup, by their agreeable 
warmth, prepare the palate and stomach to fulfill 
their wholesome functions: a drop of golden Madeira 
or of old Sherry, gives these organsall the necessary 
activity. 

With the oysters, which are followed by the fish, 
come the fine Moselle and Rhine Wines, and the 
white Bordeaux or white Burgundy wines, half dry 
or sweet, far preferable to Champagne Frappe. When 
the fish and oysters are removed, so are these wines. 

When meat is on the table, the proper accompani- 
ment is the red Bordeaux wine, mellow and rich, 
clad in resplendent purple and with a perfumed 
bouquet. 

With Canvas Back, Mallard and Teal Duck, 
richer meats— roast beef, wild boar, roebuck— is 
served excellent, heady, rich red Burgundy. 

When midway in the feast, the guests have ar- 



rived at that satisfactory stage when the stomach, 
still docile, manifests no further desires ; when the 
taste prepared by a judicious gradation of sensa- 
tions, is susceptible of the most delicate impres- 
sions, the noble red Bordeaux wines make their tri- 
umphal entry, and the "maitre d'hotel" proudly 
announces their illustrious names- Chateau Mar- 
gaux! Chateau Lafite! Chateau Latour! Chat. Haul 
Brion ! Chat. Larose ! 

After these wines, one can enjoy sweet Sauternes 
and quaff a few glasses of foaming Champagne. 



CLARETS. 

It should be remembered that quality depends not 
on the name, however high sounding, but upon the 
vintage. 

From the experts in Bordeaux I (H. V. Bemis) 
learn the following facts regarding the different vin- 
tages since 1848 and 1858, which were perfect. 

1864. A grand vintage, developing like '48 and '58. 

1865. A very full bodied wine, but the high growths 

turned out hard and gradually deteriorated. 

1866. Light thin wines of little character. 

1867. A failure. 

1868. Extremely full-bodied and expensive wines, 

but never ripened in bottle. 

1869. At first considered inferior to 1868, but after- 

wards developed magnificent qualities. 

1870. A vintage of immense body and color, very 

costly, but has never developed into very 
choice wines. 

1871. Light in color, and therefore neglected; the 

few growths kept intact, became Wines of 
the greatest delicacy and bouquet. 

1872. Thin in color and body: mediocre. 

1873. Rough and hard wines without any maturing 

power. 

1874. A very useful vintage; except for the super- 

iority of the 1875's, would certainly have been 
held in high esteem. 

1875. One of the largest and best vintages on rec- 

ord. Ranks with the '48, '58 and '64's. 

1876. A most indifferent vintage, which has deter- 

iorated much by age. 

1877. A bountiful, clear vintage, only requiring a 

little more sun to make it equal to 1875's. 

1878. Fine quality, distinguished by body rather 

than their elegance. 

1879. A very inferior vintage, coarse and rough. 

1880. A pleasing wine, but thin; some growths suit- 

able for dessert wines. 

1881. A very full bodied vintage, but not as fine 

wine as 1887's. 

^00^' Wines of different characteristics, but their 
r.J'' \ merits destroyed by the mildew which was 
88c I prevalent throughout the Medoc during 

1886: J those years. 

1887. A stout and full bodied vintage, suitable for 

beverage purposes. 

1888. A large yield of soft, full flavored wine, with 

a very promising future. 

1889. A soft, high-class wine, 

1890. A full-bodied wine, like 1887's. 

1891. Light in alcohol, but rather elegant; a fair 

percentage of good useful wines. 

1892. Full-bodied, but not considered as good as 

any year since 1886. 

1893. The largest yield since 1875; remarkable both 

for quality and abundance, and must be 
pronounced magnificent. 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 



8i 



WHOLESALE LIST. 

CHAMPAGNES. 
BRUT VINTAGE WINES. 

Per doz. 

Deutz & Gelderman, 1880 $65 00 

Pommery & Greno, 1880 Go 00 

Perrier Jouet, 1880 «5 00 

Bertier A I'o., Carte Blanche, 1880 55 00 

St. Maroeaux, 1884 88 00 

Bertier & Co., Carte Blanche, 1881 88 OO 

Club Imperial, Brut, IHSl 38 00 

Sec, 1887 32 50 

" " Brut, 1880 32 ,50 

Irroy & Co., Ernest. Carte d'Or, '80 32 00 
Moet & Chandon, Dry Imperial, 

Cuvee 18. 1889 33 50 

Perrier Jouet, Keserve Cuvee, 1880 32 00 

Pommery & Greno, Extra Sec, 1880 34 00 

St. JVlarceaux, Brut, 1889 34 00 

Goulet. (ieorge & Co., Brut, 1889 29 50 

St. Marceaux, Very Dry 32 25 

G. H. Mumm & Co., Extra Dry 30 75 

Moet & Chandon, Brut Imperial 33 50 

White Seal 29 25 

Heidsieck * Co., Dry Mouopole 30 00 

Club Dry 30 00 

Irroy & Co., Grand Extra Dry 30 50 

Delbeck & Co.. Vin Brut 31 50 

Veuve Clicquot, Yellow Label 32 25 

Rulnart, Pere & Fils, Vin Brut 32 00 

Piper Heidsieck, Sec 29 50 

Brut 38 50 

Pommery & Greno, Sec 32 25 

Roederer, L., Brut 32 50 

'■ Extra Dry 32 50 

Goulet, George & Co.. Extra Dry 29 50 

Perrier Jouet, Special 30 25 

Brut 30 25 

Deutz & Gelderman. Sec 29 50 

BORDEAUX WINES. 
CLARBTS. 

•Chat Latour, 1809 46 00 

tChat. Lafluj •• 45 00 

•Chat. Laflte 1874 35 00 

*Chat. Uaut Brlon, 1374 33 00 

•Chat. Latour, 1876 39 00 

•Chat. Mouton Rothschild, 1875 39 On 

•Chat. Rauzan " 31 50 

§Chat. Leovllle Lascases " 40 00 

§ChHt. Lafite " 45 00 

tChat Palmer " 24 .50 

tChat. Larose " 25 50 

tChat. de France, 1877 18 75 

tChat. La Lagune " 19 75 

tMedoc, 1878 8 25 

tChat Mouton d'Armailhacq " 11 75 

tPontet Canet " 12 75 

tChat. Uaut Bailly '• 24 00 

*Chat. BeyeheTelle " 18 00 

*I^ontet C»net " 15 00 

5-t. Julien " 12 on 

§Chat Palmer Margaux '• 19 00 

jchat Rausau Segla " 22 00 

§(^hat. Leovllle Lascases " 23(0 

'Pontet Cauet 1881 13 00 

•Mouton liothschild " 21 50 

*Chat. .Margaux " 24 50 

§P0Dtet Cunet " 12 00 

jchat. Larose " 1(> 00 

K'hat. Mouton d'Armo " 14 00 

§Cliat Moutoii Rothschild " 21 00 

tChat. Montrose '• 18 00 

§Si Estephe, 1884 9 50 

t("h It. Wohlgemuth 1887 12 .50 

*.Modoc " V 50 

•St Kstephe " 8 00 

•St ,iulien " 8 60 

*Ch:it Smith Haul Laflte " 12 75 

*rtauzau Segla " 19 50 



§St. Julien " 

§Chat. Larose " 

IIGrand Vin de Larose " 

5Jt Julien 1888 
§Chat. Margaux 
iChat. Loubens 

§Medoc 1889 
IIGrund Vin de Larose " 

SAUTERNBS. 

tChat. Sigalas Rabaud 1874 
§Cliat. Kieussec " 

t'-'hat. Yquem " 

%Vin de Graves '• 

"Barsac " 

tSiiuternes " 

tGraves 1878 
§Uaut Sauternes '• 

tUaut Barsac '• 

tChat. Sigalas Kabaud " 

§Chat. Yquem " 

tBarsHC 1881 
5 Uaut Sauternes " 

tCtiat. Sigalas Rabaud " 

§Sauternes 1884 
§Haut .Sauternes '• 

*tiraves " 

*Barsac " 

*Haut Barsac " 

*Sauteriies " 

tChat. Sitralas Rabaud " 

5Chat. Latour Blanche " 

§Chat. Yquem " 

§Sauternes, 1886 
5Haut Sauternes, 1887 

BURGUNDIES. 
RED. 

iRomanee 1870 
jMuslgny Vougeot " 

tChambertin •' 

iClos Vougeot " 

tCorton 1874 
tKomanee " 

JMusigny Vougeot " 

tChambertin " 

icios de Vougeot " 

tVolnay 1878 
tNuits 

iCorton " 

tChambertin, 1881 

tMacon 1885 
tMacon Vieux " 

tBeaujolais " 

tPommard " 

tRomanee " 

tBeaune ■• 

tCorton " 

tChambertin " 

WHITE. 

ttMeursault 1846 

t+Montrachet 1858 
ttMeursault •' 

'i', .Montrachet, la Gulche 

"Etampe" " 

ItMontrachet 1864 

ttMontrachet 1870 
Montrachet. Guichard, 

Potheret & Fils " 
"IMonlrachet " 

t.Vleursault 1878 
tMontrachet " 

ti-'liablls Moutonne •' 

ti'hablls 1881 

tChablis Moutonne 1885 
tMeursauit " 

tMontrachet " 



9 00 

21 00 
18 00 

8 25 

26 00 

12 00 

7 00 

13 00 

32 00 
31 50 
30 50 

14 00 
13 50 

12 00 

9 25 

13 50 

11 60 
25 50 
24 50 
10 50 

12 25 

27 50 
9 50 

12 00 

8 50 

9 00 
9 75 
9 50 

23 50 

22 50 

28 50 

8 50 

9 50 



40 00 
40 00 
4a 00 
48 00 
26 00 
30 00 
32 00 
30 00 
32 50 
16 50 
18 00 
22 00 
22 00 
10 25 
10 75 
10 50 
13 25 
24 00 
12 25 

20 00 

21 50 



54 00 
00 00 
54 00 

96 00 
54 00 
54 00 

64 00 
54 (0 
24 50 
28 50 
18 50 
13 50 
15 60 
20 00 
24 50 



Grand Vin Rouge " 27 00 

Vieux Ceps " 27 00 

Ron anee " 28 00 

Cios- Vougeot " 32 00 

RHINE AND MOSELLE WINES 
RHINE WINES. 

Hochheimer Dom-Dechaney, 1865 
Rauenthaler Berg " 

Best Johannisberger Cabinet, 1868 
Sielnberger Cabinet 
Schloss .lohannlsberger Cabi- 
net, Blue "^eal " 
Rauenthaler Beru' " 
Schloss Johantiisb'g'r Cabinet " 
Schloss .iDhanuisbgr Cabinet 1874 
Rudesheimer i880 
Marcobrunner " 
Geisenheimer Rothenberg " 
Hochheimer 1884 
Ilattenhelraer " 
Rudesheimer " 
Marciiliruniier " 
Hochheimer Dom-Dechaney " 
Rauenthaler Wleshell Auslese " 
(ieisenhelmer 1876 
Nierstelner Glock 1885 
Bodenheimer 1886 
Hochheimer 'J 
Hallgartener •' 
Liebfraumilch " 
Rauenthaler Berg " 
Marcobruntier " 
Sparkling Johannisb'ger, Brut" 

MOSELLE. 
Graacher 1886 

Brauneberger " 

Sparkl g Scharzhofberger,Brut " 
Jo^ephshofer. Auslese 1874 

Piesporter 1884 

Scharzhofberger " 

Graacher Himmelrelch •' 

MADEIRA WINE. 
Malvasla 
Old Bual 
Serclal. Dry 
Imperial Reserve 
Old Madeira 

SHERRY WINE. 
•*Topaz 
•"Oloro.so 
•♦Amontillado 
»*P. M. T. L. A. 
Imperial Oloroso, 1860 
Pemartin, Old Golden 
Pemartln, Leviathan, 1836 
Queen's Sherry 
Pemartln (Red Label) 

PORT WINE. 



65 00 
55 00 
84 00 
125 00 

160 00 
72 00 
115 00 

28 50 
12 00 
16 00 
24 50 
10 50 
12 26 
12 50 
lu 00 
20 50 
22 60 
12 50 
18 50 

8 50 

9 75 
10 50 

12 25 

13 50 
15 00 
31 50 

8 50 
10 00 

29 50 
18 OO 

10 00 

11 00 

14 50 



18 00 
24 00 
30 00 
3-' 00 
120 00 



15 00 
18 00 

21 00 

16 00 

22 00 
36 00 

120 00 
36 00 
30 00 



§5London Dock 

5501d Vintage 

§§Duke 

§§Fine Old White 

55Choice Old Vintage, 

t+Superior Old White 

t+Superior Old Red 



16 00 
18 00 
24 00 

26 00 

36 00 

37 50 
37 50 



SPARKLING BURGUNDIES. 
Mousseux 



Volnay 
Oeil-de Perdrix 



25 00 

26 00 



Commendador. many y'rs in bottles 21 00 

* A de Luze * Fils. 

t Evariste Dupont&Co. 

5 Boshamer. Leon & Co. 

il Versein & Minville. 

"T Bonon & Gustier. 

i F. Chauvenet. 

it Bouchard Pere et Fils. 

IFH Cafe Riche. Paris. 

§5 Sllva & Cosens 

+t Sauderaan's. 

** Gonzalez Byass & Co. 



The reader will see from the foregoing that the 
grading of wine by vineyards from which they are 
derived does not altogether fix their value, but the 
year in which they were produced is the most im- 
portant factor, as no two successive years" yield 
wine of exactly like character, which will be noticed 
by a careful perusal of the list of vintage clarets. 
As a further illustration of this fact I will quote a 
few prices as found in a recent issue of Bonfort's 
Wine and Spirit Circular, -which I believe is looked 
upon as an authority all over the country. There is 
in the list of one Bordeaux firm a Pontet Canet (no 
age given) at |io per doz. quarts; further on Ponlet 
Canet, 1887, $12.75 per doz. quarts. There is also in 



the same list a Chat. Lafite grand vin 1888 at $20,25, 
and Chat. Lafite grand vin 1874 at S39 per doz., and 
the same wine of 1870 at $39 per doz By looking 
over the vintage list one can readily see why the 
wine of 1870 does not command a higher price, 
though four years longer in the cellar, than that of 
1874. 

Again I find listed by a fir-ri in Wiesbaden, a Mar- 
cobrunner at $16 50 per doz. (no vintage given) ; the 
same wine of 1886 at J23.30 and the same of 1862 at 
§65: this demonstrates that the value of wine is reg- 
ulated by not only considering the vineyard where 
it is grown but also the year of its productiori. Wine 
connoiseurs always call for vintage wines because 
they are usually postpd on the quality of wines pro- 
duced in certain years. 



82 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

"WinPS of AmPT'iPa. duclng a large purple blackberry with a musty or 

foxy flavor, are derived the Catawba, Concord, Isa- 
bella. Horsford, Clinton and many others. There is 
a belief that an Asiatic hybrid between the yitis 



Regarding the raising and making of wine in this 
country, it has been found, after many efforts, that 
European vines will not thrive east of the Rocky 
Mountains ; consequently all grapes for wine making 
are native varieties found growing wild in various 
sections of the country, which have been improved 
by cultivation and hybridizing with foreign species. 

It is said that wine was made in this country by 
Spanish settlers in Florida as early as 1565 from a 
native grape found in that section. But the first 
attempt to establish a vineyard was in the Colony of 
Virginia, about the year 1620, with vines and skilled 
growers from Europe. For a while it seemed as if 
their labors would be rewarded with success Sub- 



Labrusca and the Vitis Rotundifolia was the original 
of Viiis Vinifera. 

Vitis Bicolor, the blue or winter grape found from 
New York to Wisconsin and southward; it has a 
sky blue color and is smaller than the Labrusca. 

Vitis Aestivalis, ''summer grape" also "chicken 
grape" found growing in Virginia and south to 
Texas; small pale blue berries. From it was de- 
rived the Delaware, the Cynthiana and Norton's Vir- 
ginia: the latter two are the most promising wine 
grapes east of the Rocky Mountains. 

Vitis Riparia or "river grape" found all through 
sequent failure of the undertaking caused the pro- ,, ,, , ^ , ^ , , ,^, . 

the north from Canada to Colorado. The vines 



moters to accuse the growers of ruining the vines; 
but in later trials it was made evident that European 
vines can not be cultivated, except on the Pacific 
slope. The prevalence of the phylloxera east of the 
Rockies caused every attempt to fail. 



from this species are known to be proof against the 
ravages of the phyolloxera. In view of this, large 
quantities have been shipped to France for stock on 
which to graft the finer wine producing varieties of 

the Vitis Vinifera. 

Wm. Penn made manv attempts in Pennsylvania; t-u^ m^^*i, A*io„t-„^ „• r- .■ a- j-ri- 1 

^ • The North Atlantic species I itis Cordifolta, known 

Swiss colonists tried in Kentucky and Indiana; the commonl> as the "frost," -chicken" or "possum- 
French in Tennessee, Ohio and Alabama. After g^^p^ ^^^^^^ ^^^^ New York to Iowa, south to Gulf 
failure in all of these very little was attempted until ^j Mexico; produces small blackish fruit, 
about 1826, when attention was called to the Cat- Vitis Rotundifolia or "Muscadine" of the South, 
awba vine in Virginia, which was derived from the known also as the "Bullace" grape, the source of 
Northern Fox grape ( Vitis Labrusca) one of the num- ^j^e Scuppernong,is the largest fruited species in this 
erous species of vines growing wild, the most im- country. It is found growing from Virginia to Texas 
portant of which is the Vitis Vinifera and grows in ^^j j^om Japan to the Himalayas, 
the old world from 55 degrees North to 40 degrees other distinct species in this country are found 
South latitude, and from which are derived the t^ be local, such as the Vitis Californica, known as 
European varieties: in realitj said to be a native of the "Vaumee" of the Indians, has large clusters; 
Turkey, Tartary, Greece, Persia and as far East as purple, rather pleasant fruit, 
the Himalayas. There are instances in which the yuis Caudicaus is the Mustang grape of Texas 
vine has attained trunks nearly three feet in thick- yms Arizonica, the canon grape of Arizona, 
ness in warm climate. In this country the condi F//w Car?*a^«, the grape found in West Indies and 
tions are not so favorable except in California. Eastern Mexico; also known as water withe. 

While many varieties are obtained from the pro- ynis Blaucon of the Sierra Madres in Mexico and 

pagation from seeds, the original varieties can only Central America, and many others which it will 

be perpetuated by grafting, cuttings, layers, or in- hardly be of interest to mention. 

oculation. Experiments have been made with all the forego- 
Wild species are most abundant in this country, ing species by hybridizing, with a view of thereby 
the greatest numt)er being in Texas; but the Atlan- obtaining vines suitable for wine making and for 
tic States are said to have more useful ones than table grapes, with good results in many Instances. 
any other part of the world, four of the eight varie- Especially in the past fifteen years has great progress 
ties found in that section having given rise to valu- been made in discovering grapes which prove de- 
able vines. sirable for both purposes. I will mention some of 
From the Vitis Labrusca, above referred to, which the most productive varieties suitable for wine mak- 
was found growing along the New England coast jno- and for table use. 
from Maine through the Atlantic states to Tennes- From THE LABRUSCA, we have: 
see, and from Japan to the Himalayas in Asia, pro- THE CATAWBA: an abundant and reliable 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 83 
bearer; fruit of medium size, round and of a dark black fruit, ripens quite late and is therefore de- 
purple color; both good for wine making and a pop- sirable for market. It ships well, 
uiar table grape; keeps well. When well packed WILLIE: large showy fruit, black, with thick 
they will keep until the latter part of January. skin; an excellent grape for wine making. 

THE CONCORD: large well packed bunches of From VITIS AESTIVALIS: 

bluish black fruit, very extensively used for the The NORTON'S VIRGINIA: large bunches of 

table they are today our most delicious grape for compact fruit; small blueish black berries which 

eating. are very sweet and pleasant; ripen quite late but 

TheCOLRAIN. very sweet and light green with adhere well to the stem ; yield abundantly, 

delicate bloom when ripe; has but one seed; not CYNTHIANA: like Norton's Virginia both in 

much known as a table grape but considered a good appearance and productiveness, but ripen a little 

wine maker. earlier. 

The DIAMOND, a large white grape about the DELAWARE: small compact bunches of reddish 

size of the Concord very juicy and free from foxi purple fruit; berries rather small but are a most 

ness. delicious table grape; they keep and ship well. 

The EATON . like the Concord but less sweet and OZARK: large compact bunches \vith good sized 

not so foxy. black berries of rich taste; considered an excellent 

EARLY VICTOR: large white and juicy, fine wine and table grape; ripens quite late and keeps 

eating grape and ripens quite early. well. 

The GREEN MOUNTAIN: found in the Green From ROTUNDIFOLIA: 

Mountains of Vermont. Said to more nearly re- The SCUPPERNONG; this vine cannot be sue 

semble the Vinifera species than any other native cessfully grown north of 35 degrees parallel of lati 

variety. It bears medium sized fruit, well filled tude. I am told that it is most productive when 

bunches, greenish white when ripe; is very early, trained as for an arbor, and indeed it is the only 

rather sweet and tender and free from foxiness. vvay that I have seen it grow, each vine covering 

The HAYES: Medium sized, full bunches, green- some fifty square yards over wooden frame work, 

ish white when ripe, of fine flavor; good for the It has numerous small branches, seldom having more 

t^ble. than five large greenish white berries to a bunch. 

HORSFORD. like the Concord, but ripens a little When ripe they spread large sheets of cloth or can- 
earlier, yjs, while with long poles the vines are lightly beaten 

The JUMBO, a large blueish black variety, bear- from above, which causes the ripe berries to drop 

ing heavy bunches, being earlier than the Concord; into the sheets; afterwards the berries are run 

pleasant eating and is therefore very popular in the through a kind of fan— a machine which blows away 

New York market. all leaves and dead wood found plentifully mixed 

The KEYSTONE; large bunches and compact with the berries by the peculiar process of gather- 
berries about the size and color of Concord, but ing, and which must be removed before pressing, 
skin more tough and keeps much better. It is said While these grapes are of a real pleasant taste and 
in cool temperature it will keep until latter part of make good wine they cannot be used for the table 
February. because of the small bunches. 

The MILLS, a very large compact bunch, round Other hybrid vines which are well known in some 

large black berry with blueish bloom; fruit firm and localities are: 

juicy, adheres well to the stem, ripens later than MOORE'S EARLY: like the Concord, but several 

Concord and keeps well. weeks earlier. 

NIAGARA: good sized compact bunches, fruit LADY GRAPE: white, a little larger than the 

medium sized, white, rather sweet, pleasant flavor; Concord and ripens about ten days earlier. It has 

good for the table but does not keep well. a rich sweet taste; is a good table grape. 

The OSWEGO: large black tender fruit: keeps POCKLINGTON: a very large white grape; it is 

and looks better than the Concord. hardy, a fairly good table fruit and ships well. 

The ULSTER PROLIFIC: medium sized bunches EMPIRE STATE: very much favored in the East, 

with fruit somewhat smaller than Concord; very It has large handsome bunch, berries of medium size, 

sweet; good table grape and keeps well. white, with a rich sweet taste: ships well. 

The VFRGLNNES: medium sized bunch, large There are a great many other varieties, some of 



84 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

them old and well known : to mention them all would ber of others have their vineyards, about ten thous- 

require too much space and be of but little interest, and acres are devoted to the raising of grapes. The 

* * * varieties grown are Concord, Catawba, Delaware, 
The method of wine making in this country is ex- Isabella, Niagara, Norton's, Moore's Diamond, Ionia, 

actly as in France and Germany for dry, still and Diana and a number of others. The Concord and 

sparkling wines ; and the Spanish system is adopted Catawba form the bulk of the market or table grapes, 

in making such wines as resemble sherry and A large per cent, of the finer varieties form the 

port, and for liqueur wines. basis for the champagne couvee. Two hundred 

In many instances the name under which a native thousand gallons, or about one million bottles, are 

wine is placed on the market is the same as the vines annually made into sparkling wine ; the balance of 

fromiwhich the same has been produced, as Catawba, the grapes are made into still wines which are : 

Norton's Virginia, Concord, Scuppernong, etc.; but Catawba, white, dry 

more often they are sold under a foreign label of Catawba, rose tint, sweet 

some wine to which it may bear a slight resemblance Concord, red, sweet like port 

as St. Julienne, Medoc, Pontet Canet, Burgundy, Sherry, white, dry and sweet 

Derkheimer, Port, Sherry, etc. '^^^ CHAUTAUQUA grape belt is a strip of land 

It does seem that if any wine made in this country '" ^^e extreme Northwestern part of the state, near 

isof a quality which merits it being sold as similar Lake Erie; in this section grapes, mostly Concord, 

to some foreign growth, it is surely worthy of having are raised for the market; and it is said that the 

a name of its own, original with the surroundings Concord obtains a richer flavor in the Chautauqua 

where it is produced. grape belt than anywhere else in the country. The 

» annual production amounts to from 40,000 to 50,000 

States where wine is extensively made are: New *°"'' ^^^y having shipped as many as 3, 500 car loads 

York, Ohio, Indiana, Michigan, Illinois, Virginia, '" °"e season. 

North and South Carolina, Tennessee, Arkansas Grapes are extensively raised in the HUDSON 

and Missouri. Of these New York State has prob- RIVER VALLEY, consisting of such varieties as 

ably made the greatest progress within the past Concord, Catawba, Empire State, Red Ulster, Elvira, 

twenty years. Mr. Bauder of the Pleasant Valley Niagara, Delaware and others, nearly all of which 

Wine Company of Rheims Station, New York, says: are shipped to market. 

"The advance in American wines during the last The next state of importance is OHIO, along the 

twenty years has been marvelous. A number of new coast of Lake Erie, including several islands. Var- 

varieties of grapes have been developed and old ieties finding most favor are the Lady Grape, Martha, 

varieties discarded. The great complaint against Worden (which is like the Concord), the Catawba, 

American wines, on account of what they call foxi- Moore's Early, Lady Washington, Pocklington, Del- 

ness, has largely disappeared, from the fact that, aware. Concord and others. 

as we have improved the vine and the soil becoming White and red dry wine and sparkling wine are 
older, much of the roughness is eliminated ; and I extensively made. A large per cent, of Catawba 
venture the assertion that when our vineyards have grown are made into sparkling wine in Sandusky, 
become as old in cultivation as those in France our Cincinnati and St, Louis, Mo. The dry Catawba, 
grapes will be equally as good and perhaps some of "^ade in NORTHERN OHIO and adjacent islands 
them better." '" Lake Erie, is ike best tvhite wine produced in this 
=f, * ^ country, comparing very favorably with the better 
Continuing Mr. Bauder says: "Our sparkling classof Rhine wines. The black grapes are extensive- 
wines are in all essential things a well made Ameri- ly made into clarets and sweet wines, the latter sold 
can champagne; and I venture the assertion that, as native port. 

had we started to make champagne two hundred MISSOURI: The principal sections of this state 

years ago our wine would enjoy the preference which where vineyards are planted for wine making are 

that of France does today. Herman, Augusta, Blufton, Booneville, on the banks 

"Production and sales have increased fivefold in of the Missouri River, and of late years grapes are 

the past twenty years and we find American wines beginning to be extensively grown in the south and 

growing more in demand every year." southwestern parts of the state. 

In CENTRAL NEW YORK, where the Pleasant Until about twenty years ago Concord and Cataw 

Valley Wine Co., The Urbana Wine Co., and a num- ba were among favored vines and were largely 



THE PRACTICAL 
planted in many vineyards, but it was found that 
they weie not suited to that locality, and while they 
are still represented more resistant vines have in 
most places taken their places. Norton's Virginia, 
Cynthiana, Delaware, Herbemont, (of large compact 
bunches having small deep purple berries with a 
delicious sweet taste), and a large number of hybrids 
derived from Texas and native Missouri vines com- 
pose the main stock. 

Most of the grapes are used for wine making, of 
which a great deal is made, and some cf which is of 
excellent quality, especially that made from the 
Norton and Cynthiana, resembling in every respect 
a first rate Red Burgundy, a sample of the latter 
having been exhibited at the World's Fair, Chicago, 
under the name of Black Rose and received first prize 
among American red wines. 

Wines of Missouri production are: 

Red Concord (claret) dry 

White " 

Catawba 

Rose " sweet 

White Herbemont. dry like Mauzanilla 

" Delaware, dry like Rhine wine 

Red Norton's \ {Black Rose) 

Cynthiana f dry like Burgundy. 

Also wines resembling port and sherry. 

Sparkling wines are made in Herman and in St. 
Louis, the latter, from the Catawba grown in Ohio, 
known as Cook's Imperial. 

In NORTH CAROLINA, VIRGINIA, TENNES- 
SEE and ARKANSAS a very pleasant white wine 
is made from the Scuppernong, which has some re- 
semblance to dry Catawba. In MISSISSIPPI, TEX- 
AS, KANSAS, MICHIGAN, INDIANA and ILLI- 
NOIS some grapes are raised for the market. NEW 
MEXICO also raises grapes for the market. In this 
territory as well as in parts of Arizona, European 
vines are successfully grown. 

CALIFORNIA: In this state we find that the 
European vine is grown successfully and but few 
American vines are planted. 

Over two hundred >ears ago the vine was planted 
by Spanish monks in the section where now ars Los 
Angeles and San Diego. The varieties brought over 
by them are still cultivated in old Mission Valley 
and country surrounding San Diego, where they are 
known as Mission grapes. Of late years, however, 
the phylloxera has been very destructive, and so 
far the only remedy has been to graft the European 
varieties on native or resistant stocks. 

The vines most favored for wine making are: 



HOTEL STEWARD. 85 

For RED WINE: 

"Cabernet Sauvignon" or "Cabernet," small black 
berries and bunches, juicy and sweet; the wine from 
it being very robust is often used for blending and 
irrsproving milder varieties. 

"Cabernet Franc" very much resembling the Sau- 
vignon, but inferior. 

"Beclan" small clusters but compact ; berry small_ 
black, thick skinned, makes a very choice red wine. 

"Valdepenas," Spanish, makes a fine full-bodied 
claret of a high character. 

"Petit Syrah," large clusters, berries of medium 
size, makes a choice red wine. 

They have also "The Gamay," The Pinot Noir,'' 
and many others, including "The Zinfandel." The 
latter is by far the most productive and is therefore 
planted to a very great extent in most of the vine- 
yards. When properly handled it will make one of 
the most desirable red wines grown in this country. 

For WHITE WINE. 

"The Melon Blanc," the same from which white 
Burgundy is made in France. •■ 

"Cadillac." small white berry of medium bunches, 
very sweet; its high flavor makes it valuable for 
blending. 

"Semillion," the same as from which Haut Sau- 
terne and Chat Yquem are made of in France. 

"Sauvignon Blanc," similar to the above. 

"Riesling," same as fro'Ti which fine Rhine wines 
are made. 

"Savignon Verte," "Orleans Riesling." "Verte 
Longue," "Folle Blanche," and many others, includ- 
ing some of the most successfully grown grapes from 
all parts of the wine growing sections of Europe. 

For SHERRY: 

"The Palomina" from Spain is most popular; it is 
very prolific, makes a fine dry wine of good flavor. 

"Formit," same as from which fine Hungarian 
white wines are made. 

"Sultana," a delicate white seedless grape from 
which also the seedless raisins are produced. 

Other white varieties, some of which are used in 
making sweet wines, are the "Clairette Blanche," 
"Muscat de Frontignan," "White Elben," also some 
varieties of American origin. 

The foregoing is only a partial list of wine produc- 
ing vines. I mentioned the varieties planted for 
that purpose only. While these would also be the 
best for the market they will not stand shipping. 
For this purpose different kinds are grown which 
are firmer and can be sent to most any part of the 
world. I have no doubt but that nearly every hotel 
man in the country knows some if not all of these 



86 THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

varieties, as at certain times of the year one can The following are some of th.e favored products: 

find them for sale by the fruit dealers. White Aliso, dry like Sauterne 

The most favored of these is the "Tokay," it has " Gutedel, dry like Rhine wine 

very large bunches of pale red color, large oblong " Riesling, " 

berries, quite firm, and is altogether of an attractive " Pineau Blanc, dry like Burgundy 

appearance. " " Gris " 

"Black Cornuchon," has large bunches, the berries " Cresta Blanca " " Sauterne 

large, oblong, blueish black with lighter spots, ripens Red Pineau Noir " " Burgundy 

quite late. " Zinfandel " " Bordeaux 

"Emperor," has long loose bunches, large oblong " Mataro " " " 

berries of purple black color, ripens very late. " Barbera " " Asti 

"White Cornichon," large loose clusters with ob- " Claret " " Bordeaux 

long yellow berries, ripens late. and white, rose colored and red sweet wines as 

"Malaga," large bunches, berries long, oval, yel- before mentioned. 

low, ripens early. In most instances the wine is given the name of 

"Black Ferbara," medium sized cluster, berry the vine from which it is derived, but a great deal 

round, black with a blue bloom. is also sold under foreign labels, or as the type of 

"The Sultana," described above, "The Black the same like 

Damascus," "The Black Morocco," and "Muscat," Medoc Type 

the latter a good shipping grape is also used in mak- St. Julian Type 

ing Sweet Muscat and Angelica wine, and is one of St. Estephe Type 

the best raisin grapes; it has long loose clusters Typo Chianti, etc. 

and large yellow berries, is very sweet and has a Before the formation of the California wine asso- 

prominent flavor. ciation wines of that state were sold at prices which 

The principal wine producing districts of this were ruinous to the growers, but now this is regu- 

stateare: lated by concerted action of the association. How- 

In the southern part, Los Angeles, San Bernardino ever, the prices of good native wines are still low 

and San Diego, where large quantities of sweet or enough that every family could afford to have a glass 

liqueur wines are made, which appear in the market of ihis health giving beverage with their dinner, 

as Angelica, Muscatel, Tokay, Sherry, Port, Madeira Most American wines are fully matured when two 

etc. The dry wines made in this district are too years old and very few of them will improve any 

heavy and contain too much alcohol. The sweet more after being four to five years old. 

wines are of a superior quality and in some respects * * * 

resemble the original wine after which they are MEXICO: Some three hundred years ago the 

named. vine was brought from Europe into Mexico and there 

Further North in the Napa and Sonoma valleys grown successfully; but the industry received no 

are the largest vineyards in the state, the climate attention, and very little wine was made. Of late 

being more moist and cooler. Dry wine, both- red years, however, grape growing has received some 

and white are made. St. Helena, Santa Rosa, encouragement under patronage of the government. 

Cloverdale and Heraldsburg are the shipping * '' * 

centers. SOUTH AMERICA: In Argentina a great deal 

The system of wine making in California, while of wine is made from European vines and is said to 

conducted on a large scale, is the same as the most tie of very good quality; also Chili, Peru, Uruguay 

approved methods in France, and the quality in most and Brazil in the Southern part some wine is made 

instances is of a high standard, surely much better from European vines which grow in the temper- 

than the cheaper imported varieties from Europe. ate sections of South America successfully. 



THE PRACTICAL HO lEL STEWARD. 87 

ALCOHOL. LITTLE CHAMPAGNE, second class. 

Alcohol is a product derived from fruits, grain ^ES BORDERIES OU PREMIERE BOIS, for 

and vegetables which contain glucose. The sugar ^""'" class. 

is converted into alcohol by fermentation and then LES DEUXIEMES OU BOUS BOIS, fourth 

extracted by distillation. class, and 

All fruits in a ripe state are crushed, and when TROISIEME BON BOIS, fifth class, 

placed in a mild temperature will ferment without The town of Cognac is tli^^ most central shipping 

the assistance of any foreign substance. After the point, where also the prices are regulated once a 

fermentation is completed, all sugar contained in month. 

such fruit has changed to alcohol and is ready for When brandy is first made it is almost without 

the still. The product obtained by passing through color and is qi te disagreeable to taste; but with 

the still once is BRANDY, but by redistilling the age it becomes darker, also assuming a sweetish and 

same over again several times PURP' ALCOHOL more pleasant taste. 

will result. When grain or vegetables, such as rye. The strength of brandy is from 106 to 130 degrees 

corn, barley, potatoes, beets, etc., are to be used, proof, or from 53 to 65 per cent, absolute, 

the same must be first macerated and fermentation Almost 3very large vineyard in this country, as 

induced by the addition of yeast. well as in Europe, has a distillery connected with it 

Alcohol forms the active or intoxicating part in for the purpose of converting to brandy such wines 

all fermented beverages. When pure it should reg- as will not answer for the market; also to distill the 

ister 200 degrees, but it is very difficult to produce lees taken from the wine after racking, 
it perfectly anhydrous or absolute. Most alcohol 

we buy will register about 190 degrees or 95 per OT^ER FRUIT BRANDIES. 

cent. pure. Other fruit brandies are: 

Until the eleventh century, alcohol was not known KIRSCHWASSER, made from cherries, both wild 

in Europe. It is said that the Arabs were the first and cultivated. 

who knew the art of extracting it; and it was not PLUM BRANDY. (Zwetschkenwasser), from 

until the early part of the eighteenth century that a prunes; made principally in Germany, Hungaria 

Fiencli professor first found the way of making and Roumania. 

alcohol. It was not long afterward that it became CIDER BRANDY (apple brandy) and 

the base of medicines and of liquors for the table. PEAR BRANDY, made principally in Normandy 

Since then the popularity of the same has increased RUM and 

with the pace of civilization. It is useful in many TAFIA is made from sugar cane in the West 

ways, and while its use is often abused, yet such Indies. 

cases are insignificant compared with the many ARRACK is from sugar cane in the East Indies, 

ways in which it has proven beneficial. MARASCHINO, from cherries. Made in Zara. 

GOLDWASSER, from grains, in Dantzig. 

BRANDY (Cognac). whiskey is from rye, corn, oats and barley 

Brandy (Cognac) is a distillation from wine. By Made in Scotland. Ireland. United States and Can- 
far the larger portion is being made in France, ada. 

where, in the province of Charente, vast vineyards RAKIA, from grapes perfumed. Made in Hun- 
are cultivated, the product of which is converted garia. 

into cognac. The valuation placed on wine in this SCHIEDAM SCHNAPPS, (Gin), made from grains 

district is according to the quantity of brandy that flavored with juniper berries. Made in Holland. 

can be made out of it; in good years, for instance, BRANDY, from beets; made in Northern Europe 

about five bottles of wine will make one of brandy; BRANDY is also made from lees of potatoes in 

in bad years it will take double the quantity. Dis- Northern Europe. 

tilling is begun immediately after fermentation is AZAKA, ARZA, ARKA, made from mare's milk, 

complete, and by the beginning of March the brandy 'f Tartary. 

is all made. A BR.ANDY is made from the juice of the agave 

Brandy or eau-de-vie, as it is commonly called in i" Mexico and South America. 

France, is divided into five classes, namely : PEACH BRANDY, made from ripe peaches in 

FINE CHAMPAGNE is the best. the United States. 



3E THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

adding cardamom seeds and socctrine aloes. 

LIQUEURS. WHITE CHARTREUSE is made from cinnamon, 

Liqueurs and cordials are made b)' taking various mace, cloves, nutmegs, tonka bean, lemon-balm- 

aromatic herbs of which they may be composed, re- hyssop, gcnepi, angelica roots and seeds, cardamom, 

duce the same to fine particles, and are then macer- and sweet flag. 

ated with sugar, alcohol and water for several days BENEDICTINE is from cloves, nutmegs, cinna- 

untii thoroughly digested, then distilled and recti- mon, lemon-balm, peppermint, angelica roots, sweet, 

fied. The product is then treated with syrup and flag, and genepi. 

proof spirits, also the proper coloring. The usual TRAPPIS TINE is from absinth, angelica, mint, 

strength of cordials is about 120 degrees proof, or cordamom, lemon, myrrh, sweet flag, cinnamon, 

60 per cent, pure alcohol. cloves and mace. 

ABSINTHE is made from dried absinthe (worm- EAU DE VIE DANTZIG is from cumin seed, car- 
wood), dried hyssop, balm mint, green anise, Chi- away seed, celery seed, green anise, cloves and 
nese anise, fennel and coriander seeds. This cordial cinnamon. 

is made in several localities in France and Switzer- KUMMEL is from cumin seeds, coriander and 

land, and in each place it is made differently. In orange peel. 

Switzerland is where it was first produced. CREME DE MEN'THE is from peppermint-balm, 

CREAM OF ANGELICA is made from angelica sage, cinnamon, ginger, and orris root, 

roots, angelica seeds, fennel, and coriander. MARASCHINO is from ripe, wild cherries, rasp- 

ANISETTE is made from green anise, star anise, berries and cherry leaves, 

coriander, fennel, and hyson tea. CURACAO is from skins of oranges, cinnamon 

CREME DE MOK.A is made from coffee and bitter and mace, 

almonds. VERMOUTH is made from absinth, gentian, an- 

PARFAIT AMOUR, grated skins of cediats, gelica root, holy thistle, calamus, nutmegs, sliced 

grated skins of lemons and cloves. fresh oranges, cinnamon, germander, elecampane, 

CHARTREUSE GFiEEN is made from cinnamon, and sweet wine of Picopaul. 

mace, lemon balm, dried hyssop flower tops, pepper- There are several varieties of VERMOUTH, each 

mint, thyme, costmary, arnica flowers, genepi, and of which contain some different ingredients. The 

angelica roots. above are contained in the vermouth of Turin 

CHARTREUSE YELLOW. Similar to above, (Italian). 

_____^__ r 

% 

WHITEWASH. 

_ _ . ^ How to prepare a lime whitezvash for wood, brick or stone: 

Slack one bushel of lime with boiling water, keep 

How to make your own soft soap tor scriibbinp: j j ■ ..1 *u *-„-, *u,„,,„u ^ 

-^ ■' ' J ■s covered during the process, then strain through a 



Have a tank made of No. 18 galvanized iron that 
will hold about two hundred gallons. Place in the 



sieve and add 



One peck salt dissolved in warm water. 

bottom a coil of half inch steam pipe, perforated so ^, . r 1 j- 1 j- u -i- 

^ ^ *^ Three pounds of glue dissolved in boiling water. 

that the live steam will be evenly distributed. 



Take eighteen pounds of caustic soda, dissolve. 



Two pounds of Spanish whiting. 

Six pounds rice flour boiled to a thin paste. 

then add sixty-five pounds of grease and about ^ j 1. • ui • .^ j c » -.u 

J ^ => One pound ultramarine blue, moistened first with 

fifteen to twenty gallons of water, let boil slowly ^ ,.^^,^ ^^,^^^^ g^.^ ^^„ ^^^^^ ^^^.^^ ^,j ^^^ ^^^^^ 

until all the grease is consumed, then add hot ingredients to the lime., then leave the mixture 
water slowly until tank is full. .^^^^ ^ j^^ ^^^.^ 

Should be heated before applying. 



I HE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD. 

A System of Wine Room Bookkeeping. 



89 



My wine room books consist of three, viz: one 
Invoice or Receiving Book, one Issue Book and one 
Stock Book 

THE INVOICE OR RECEIVING BOOK. 
The Invoice Book is an ordinary Journal into which 
all bills are copied after receiving the goods. It is 
just such a book as is kept in any store for the same 
purpose, like the following illustration; 

RECEIVING BOOK. 

March, iSgg 
16 
W. A. Thomas & Sons Co. 

I bbl. Old Jordan, spring 1891. 
36.5 gallon at §1.80 



?5.oo $65.00 



David Nicholson 

5 cases Mumm's - 

3 " 

2 " Ruinart 

2 " Cliquot Brut 

19 
Steinwender & Sellned 

1 cask C and C ginger ale .S16 50 

2 cases King Wm. Scotch whisky 42.00 



quarts $30 I150 00 

pints 32 9600 

quarts 30 6000 

33 66 00 



S372.00 



S58.50 



THE BAR ISSUE BOOK. 
(See Illustration on opposite page.) 
For the Issue Book I take a blank record and rule 
in vertical lines, leaving a space of 2)^ inches at the 
margins in which to write the names of the wines as 
issued. The first narrow space (next to the names) 
* |I use to place the abbreviations of quantities, as qt. 
((for quart, pt. for pint, etc. The spaces following 
♦ere for recording the quantities issued on various 
dates as shown at the head of the columns. To the 
right of the page is: first, a narrow column for the 
total quantities issued; and, last, the column for 
the value, which is extended at the end of the month 
as shown in the illustration at top of next page. 

THE STOCK BOOK. 
(See illustration on opposite page.) 

The most important book is the one for Stock. 
For this I also use a plain record, and rule in ver- 
tical lines, using the entire folio, on which stock is 
carried for five months without rewriting. 

First, I leave a space in which I write the names 
of all wines and liqueurs carried in stock, classified. 

Next column "a" is to place the cost price per 
single gallon or bottle, which answers for the folio 



Column "b" is the actual stock as counted on the 
last day of the month. 

In column "c" I carry the total amount of what 
was bought during the month (from the Invoice or 
Receiving book) ; for instance, I bought 5 cases, 
quarts, of G. H. Mumm's ; 3 cases, pints, of the same 
and so on. 

In column "d" are carried the total issues (as 
taken from the Issue Book), as will be seen by com- 
paring: I issued 36 quarts Mumm's, 40 pints of the 
same, 3 pints Cook's, etc. After having entered all 
the Goods Received in column "c" and entered all 
the Issues in column "d", I add the amounts of 
Stock on Hand in column "b" to the Total Amount 
Received in column "c" and from the total of the 
two I deduct the Amount Issued in column "d" the 
remainder gives me the Balance (column "e"), which 
still ought to be in stock on the day when actual 
count is taken (for column "b") in April. Thus you 
will see that of Mumm's wine there was in stock 
March ist 18 quarts; received 60 quarts; issued 
during the month 36 quarts; this latter deducted 
from 78 quarts (the total of column "b" and "c") 
leaves a balance of 42 in stock, which, at $2.70 per 
quart, amounts to $113.40, 

The stock in column "b" is a check on the stock 
in column "e" and at the same time starts the new 
month. 

While this may seem difficult it is a very satis- 
factory system, one where errors can be quickly 
found, since both columns, "e" of March and "b" 
of April, ought both be exactly the same : as will be 
noticed in comparing Pommery quarts : note the "*" , 
there are only 10 quarts in stock, but the Balance 
column shows 11. There is one short, to be ac- 
counted for. 

THE ARLINGTON 

Wine Room Issues to Bar 













1900 


Gals 


BOTTLES 








Qts 


Pts 


pts 
















































90 



THE PRACTICAL HOTEL STEWARD 



March 






ISSUES TO BAR. 








DATE 


Am't 


I 


3 


5 


9 


12 


14 


17 


ao 


21 




Total 


Value 


Mumm's 


Ot. 




12 




6 


6 






12 






36 


?97 1 20 


<• 


Pt. 




12 


6 


6 


6 


6 




4 






40 


.S7 


20 


Ruinart 


Ot. 




6 


3 


6 


6 


3 


2 


6 






32 


88 




Cooks 


Qt. 
Pt. 








I 
6 














I 

6 


I 
3 


16 
90 


St. Julian 


Qt. 
Pt. 


3 

2 














3 






3 
5 


2 

2 


55 
50 


King Wm. Scotch 


Ot. 


I 




I 


I 




I 


I 








5 


8 


75 


J. E. Pepper 


Gal. 


.^ 


3 




3 


3 


3 


3 


3 


3 




24 


5b 


40 


Ciiquot 


Pt. 






2 




3 




2 








7 


10 


22 


Pommery 


Ot. 








3 














3 


8 


49 


• • 


Pt. 


2 




2 




2 




4 




2 




12 


18 


00 


Old Jordan 


Gal. 


2 






2 






1 


2 




6 


12 


90 


Belle Nelson 


Ot. 


















I 




I 


I 


us 


Ciiquot 


Ot. 




2 


6 




2 


4 




1 






15 


'1^ 


3w 



Total issues 



$410 56 



WINE ROOM STOCK BOOK 


. 










MARCH 


APRIL 






f, 


"U 


D 






— 


y 


01 






1899 


Cost price 







0) 


t« 




Value 





'0 


3 


S 


Value 






yQ 


a: 


in 




-y^ 


Gi 


t/) 






CHAMPAGNES 






























Mumm's qt. 


2 


70 


18 


60 


36 


42 


113 


40 


42 












pts. 


I 


43 


44 


72 


40 


7-, 


108 


68 


76 












Ruinart qt 


2 


IS 


12 


24 


32 


4 


II 


00 


4 












pts. 


I 


48 


6 




6 




















Clicquot qt. 


2 


82 


14 


36 


15 


35 


98 


70 


35 












pts 


I 


46 


27 




7 


20 


29 


20 


20 












Pommery Sec qt. 


2 


80 


14 




3 


1 1 


31 


13 


iO* 












pts. 


I 


50 


32 




12 


20 


30 


CO 


20 












Cooks qt. 


I 


16 


10 




I 


9 


10 


44 


9 












pts. 




65 


6 




3 


3 


I Q5 


3 












WINES, BORDEAUX, 






























RED 






























Chat. Lafitte qt. 


2 


05 


22 






22 


45 


10 


22 












pts. 


I 


15 


36 






36 


4f 


40 


36 












St. Julian qt 




85 


21 




3 


38 


15 


30 


18 












pts 




50 


18 




5 


13 


6 


50 


13 












WHISKEYS 






























Belle of Nelson qt. 


I 


05 


13 




I 


12 


I 2 


60 


12 












McGibbens qt 


2 


00 


14 






14 


28 


00 


14 












Cabinet gal. 


3 


60 


.S4 






5 A 


194 


40 


54 












J. E. Pepper gal 


2 


3S 


122 




24 


q8 


230 


30 


98 












Old Jordan gal. 


2 


15 ' 32 


36.5 


6 


62K 


134 


38 


62I-2 












King Wm. qt 


I 
a 


75 


^ 


24 

c 


5 
d 


19 


33 
/ 


25 


19 
b 













Total 



ti.175 73 



INDEX. 



Africa, wines of. 78 

A la carte and table d'hote, 35 

Alcohol. 87 

American wines. 83 

Arrangement of the dinner bill of fare, 33 

Assistant steward, duties of, 3 

Australia, wines of. 79 

Austri 1. wines of. 72 
Baker ami pastry cook. 3 

Bakery and pastry, list of utensils for 
2.iO-raom and 40-room hotels, 6 

Banquets. 45: book. 17, 19 

Banquet menu, dissecting cost of, 19 

Banquet table, ideas in setting, 47 (and 
plate IV) 

Bar, issues to, 89; requisition on wine 
room. 89 

Barr'^ls and bottles, cleaning. fiS 

BILLS OK FAliK. 27: arrangement of. 
for the dinner. 38: breakfast, arrange- 
ment of (specimens) 29; breakfast, din- 
ner and supper S|)tfCimens for 40 room 
country bote'. 11; breakfast dinner 
and supper specimens for lUU-room $2 a 
day hotel. 12; breiikfast. lunch and din- 
ner specimens of tirst class 2llO-r()Om 
city hotel, 12: breakfast, luncheon and 
dinner specimens of big resort hotel, 
14; dinner (specimens ) 34: French out 
of place on, in American 29; luncheon 
( specimens) 32: making (.see also men- 
us) 2': supper, arranging the. 41; strive 
for variety in. H9; to be even in quality 
(Illustrations) 2S 

Blendina (13 

Book, banquet. 17 and 19; breakage and 
Unes 10; prices, refeience for the pock- 
et. IS: stock on liand, the. IT: wine 
room stock. 89; storeroom receiving and 
iss 1e.S. 15 

Bookkeeping, storeroom. 15 

Bordeaux wines. ti7 

Bottles and bairels. cleaning, t)3 

Bouillon, to serve, 57 

Brandy. 87 

BreakaL'e and fines book, 10 

Breakfast bill of fare, arrangement of 
(specimens) 29 

Buffet luncheons 44 

Burgundy wines. (iS 

Butter, buying. 24; serving the. 4 

BUYlX(i. 22: aiva' tages of dealing with 
rela de house 25; talk with chef be- 
fore going to market. 2H 

Canaries wines of the. 7(i 

Carving. .M: and service, steward super- 
intend the. 9 

Catering, party, 58 

Champ:igne. 05 

Cheap help, no profit in, 10 

Chicken, to carve. 5(i 

Claras, buying, 23; or shell oysters, to 
serve. 57 

Clarets. SO 

Cleaning barrels and bottles, ('i3 

Cotfee and tea making, 4; buying. 25 

Cf^oks. the. 3 

Cotes du Rhone wines, ffl 

Cream and milk, serving the. 4 

Daily report of storeroom issues, 17 

Decisions, impartiality in. 10 

Dining room, nurses and children's and 
officers'. 5 

Dinner bills of fare, arrangement of, 39; 
(Specimens) 34 

Dish pantry, the. 4 

Dishes, the kinds to use in serving, 57 

Dish heaters, daily inspection of. 8 

Dishwashing, satisfactory method of. 4 

Duck, to carve tame. 5(i; mallard, etc., 57 

Egg boiler, daily inspection of, 8 

Entrees, to serve. 57 

Feeding tie help. 5 

Fines and hreikaee book. 10 

Fish, buying. 23: to serve, 57 

France, wines of, 64, 67 



Fruit, buying, 24; pantry, 3; brandies, 87 
Game, buying, 24; dressed, preservation 

of. 2'; 
Garnishing, 57 
Germany, wines of, 70 
Goose, to carve. .5(> 

(irapes varieties.cultivated in America. 82 
(Jrcece. wines of, 77 
Groceries, buying, 25 
Ham, to carve, 5ij 

llelp, feeding the, 2 and 5; managing, 7; 
meal hoars, 5; no proUt in cheap help, 
10; organizing, governing and feeding 
the, 2; quality of. 10: rules for govern- 
ment of. 8; waiters for the, 5 
Hors d'oeuvres. to seive, 57 
H. M M. B. A. menus, 49 
Ilungaria, wines of. 73 
Ice bo.x. the store room. 5 
Ideas in setting a banquet table, 47 (also 

illustration plate IV) 
Impartiality in decisions, 10 
Into-xicauts. as to 9 
Inventory, storeroom monthly. 5 
Issue book, storeroom, 15; wine room to 

bar, 89 
Italy, wines of. 7(5 

Kitchen and kttchen basement Ideal (il- 
lustration plates I and ID 
Kitchen list of utensils, f or 250-room and 

40 room hotels, li 
Labor market to be considered, 8 
Leg of mu ton, lamb, veal, to carve, 55 
Liqueurs. 88 
Loins of beef, buying and cutting up to 

advantage. 23 
Luncheon bills of fare (specimens) 32; 

buffet, 44 
Madeira, wines of. 7(i 
Mallard duck and other wild fowl, to 

carve 57 
Managing help, 7 

Market, to. 23: list of perishable foods. 21 
ME.\TS. buying, 23; to serve, 57; preser- 
vation of, 26 
MENU, the arrangement of 48: for ban- 
quet, dissecting cost of, 19: for 450 at 
50 cents a plate. 12; the H. M. M. B. A. 
banquets, 49; use and abuse of the 
word. '29; for wedding, 59 
Mexican wine-". S(i 
Milk and cream, serving the, 4 
Morals must be looked after, 9 
Mutton, buying and cutting up to advan- 
tage. 23 
Nurses and children's dining room. 5 
Officer^*' dining room. 5 
Urganizatinn of 40- room country hotel. 
10; of a lOO-room »2 ad:iy hotel, 11 : of 
200-room city hotel of the first class, 
12; of fashioniible summer hotel of 500 
rooms. 13 
Organizing a crew for first class hotel, 7 
Oysters in shell, buying 23 
Pantry, economy in the. 4; list of uten- 
sils for 2:')0 room and 40-room hotels. 6 
Party catering, oS 

I'astry cooks and bakers, 3: utensils, 6 
Perishable foods, steward's market list 

of 21 
Persia, wines of. 78 
Portugal, wines of. 75 
Poultry, buying. 24 
Preservation of meats, 2o; of dressed 

game, 2(i 
Prices reference book. 18 
Punch, the place for on the billof fare.38 
Receiving book, sloreioora, 15; wine 

room. 89 
Report, steward's weekly (illustration 

plate III) 
Reprimands, 9 
Requisition blanks on market room and 

store room. 20 
Requisition from bar on wine room, 89 



Ribs, buying and cutting up to advan- 
tage, 2.i 
Roast beef, to carve. 55; to serve, 57 
Roast pig. to carve. o(! 
Roumania. wines of. 78 
Rules for government of help. 8 
Rules for help must be enforced, 8 
Russia, wines of. 78 
Saddle of mutton, to carve, 55 
Salads, to serve. 57 
Scrap table, saving at the, 5 
Servants' halls, the. 5 
Serving what dishes to use in. 57 
Shell oysters or clams, to serve, 57 

Shrinkage, how to avoid. 18 

Shoulder or mutton or lamb, to carve, 56 

Signs, warning, 10 

Silver pantry, the. 4 

Soft soaii for scrubbing, to make, 88 

South American wines. 86 

South of France wlnee, 69 

Spain, wines of, 74 

Sparkling wines. 66 

Statement, itemized, of daily issues (il- 
lustration plate III) 

STEWARD in the storeroom, 5 

Steward superintend carving and ser- 
vice, 9 

STEWARD'S DUTIES. 1; early morning, 
8: evening. 10 

STEWARD'S dally report to manage- 
ment, 17; itemised statement of daily 
issues (illustration i>late III); marktt 
list of perishable foods, 21; weekly re- 
port (illustration plate III); relation to 
proprietor or manager. I; relation to 
the guests, the housekeeper, the head- 
waiter, 2 

Still dry wines. 67 

Stock on hand book. 17 

Stock b"0k, wine room, 89 

Stores, keeping and issuing. 18 

STOREROO.VI, the, 5; bookkeeplne. 15; 
Ice box. 5: issue and receiving bookg, 
15; Issues, daily report of. 17; issues, 
regular hours for. 5; monthly Inven- 
tory. 5; steward in the, 5 

Supper, arranging the, bill of fare 41 

Supplies, system of ordering from distant 
markets. 13 

Switzerland, wines of. 77 

Table d'hote and a la carte. 35 

Tea. buying. 25; the meal, 44; and coffee 
making, 4 

Teal duck and other wild fowl. tocarve,57 

Turkev, wines of. 78; to carve. 56 

UTENSILS, list of. for kitchen, bakery 
and pastry and pantry of 250- room und 
40-room hotels. 6 

Variety in the bill of fare, strive tor. 39 

Vegetables, buying. 24: the place for on 
the bill of fare. 'M: to serve, 57 

Venison, to carve, 56 

Visiting, none during working hour?. 10 

Waiters for the help, a 

Warning signs. 10 

Wedding menu 59 

WINES, ti2; art of drlnKlng ;ll; cl:i>;>^fl- 
cation of some of the most lum.jus, 
where grown and how made 61 

WINES of America. 83; Africa. 78: Aus- 
tria. 72: Australia, 79; Bordeaux, 67; 
Burtrundy, 68: Champagne. ti5; Cotes 
du Rhone. 69; Cjnarles.76; France. 64; 
Germany. '.0; Greece. 77; Uungaria. 73: 
Italy. 76; Madeira, 76; Mexico. 86: Per- 
sia. 78; Portugal. 75: Russia. 78: Rou- 
mania. 78: sparkling. 66: still dry. 67: 
Spain. 74: South of France. 69; Switzer- 
land, 77: South America. 86; Turkey. 73 

WINE room, the, 5; bookkeeping." 89; 
Issues. 6; temperature ••(. 6 

Whitewash, lime, for wood, brick orstone 
to prepare. 88 

Yardman, the. 6 



Cook Books for Hotels and Restaurants 

For Sale by the Hotel Monthly. 

JOHN WILLY, Publisher, - - = 325 Dearborn Street, CHICAGO. 

Sent postpaid upon receipt of price. 



WHITEHEADS THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK AND GITIKd 

TO PAHTy CATERING. Price, postpaid, $3.00. 

The most complete and reliable work of Its kind ever pub- 
lished. Tiie contents include: PART 1— Hotel stewardlng 
and composition of Bills of Fare. PART 2— Restaurant Stew- 
ardlng and Public Party Catering. PART 3 -Catering for 
Private i'arties. and Headwaiters and their Troops. FART 4— 
A Dictionary of Dishes and Culinary Terms and Specialties 
PART 5- (low to Fold Napkins. 

WHITJ5UEADS THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. Price $2 
The most complete work on breads, pastrie-s. ices. etc.. ever 
published. The contents include: PART 1— The Hotel Book 
Of Fine Pastries. Pies, l^atties. lakes, Creams, Custards. Char- 
lottes. Jellies and Sweet Entrements in variety. PART 2- 
The Hotel Book of Puddings. Scuffles and Meringues. A handy 
collection of Valuable Receipts. OL-iginal. selected and perfect- 
ed for use in Hotels an<l Bating Houses of every Grade 
PART 3— The Hotel Book of Breads and Cakes; French, 
Vienna, Parker House and other Bolls, Muffins, Waffles. T.a 
Cakes; Stock Yeast and Ferment; Yeast raised cakes, etc, as 
made in the best hotels. PART 4— The Hotel Book of Salads 
and Cold Dishes. Salad Dressing, with and without oil Salads 
Of all kinds how to make and how to serve them; Boned 
Fowls. Galantines. Aspics, etc. 



WHITBBEAU'S HOTEL MEAT COOKING. Price, ¥2.00. 
Is thoroughlv practical, and is endorsed by thousands of cooks 
as a work of great educational value. The contents include: 
PART 1— The Hotel Fish and Oyster Rook; showing all the 
best methods of Co6king Oysters and Fish, for Restaurant and 
Hotel Service together with the appropriate Sauces and Vege- 
tables. PART 2 -How to Cut Meats and Roast, Boil and Broil. 
The entire trade of the Hotel Meat Cutter. Roaster and BroU 
er. including "Short Orders,'' Omelets, etc. PART 3— The 
Hotel Book of Soups and Entrees, comiirising specimens of 
French, English and American Menus, with translations and 
comments. Showing how to make up Hotel Bills of Fare, 
with all the different varieties of Soups and Consommes in 
proper rotation, and a new set of entrees or '•made dishes'' 
for every day. PART 4— Creole Cookery and Winter Resort 
Specialties PART 5-Cook's Scrap Book— A Collection of 
Culinary Stories. Poems. Stray Recelps. etc., etc. Index of 
French Terms, an e.xplii nation and translation of all the 
French terms used in the book, alpbabetically arranged. 



WHITEHEAD'S COOKING FOR PROB'IT AND EIGHT WEEKS 

AT A SUMMER RESORT. Price, postpaid. $3 00. 

Two books In one. A remarkable volume which shows how 
money is made by boarding people and what It costs to live 
well. The contents include: PART 1— Some articles for the 
Show Case. The Lunch Counter. Restaurant Breakfasts. 
Lunches and Dinners. Hotel Breakfasts, Dinners and Sup- 
pers. Oyster and Fish House Dishes. The Ice Cream Saloon. 
Fine Bakery Lunch. Quaker Dairy Lunch. Confectionary 
Goods. Home-made Beers, etc. PART 2-Elght Weeks at a 
Summer Resort. Presents a vast fund of information regard- 
ing the preparing the Breakfasts. Dinners and Suppers, ordi- 
nary and extraordinary, stating quantities and estimated cost 
Of provisions required. Kitchen equipment Cold Storage. 
One hundred different bills of Fare. Eleven hundred recipes 
A dictionary of cookery. Artistic cookery illustrated. 



THE EPICUREAN. Price, cloth bound $8. 
A H'rarico-AmerlCiin Culinary Encyclopedia of over 1200 pages. 
Illustrated with over tight hundred enuiavings. This Is the 
most complete cookery book ever written and should find a 
place in the library of every proprietor, manager, steward 
chef, pastry cook and bon vivant who would be abreast of the 
tlTfis ill knowing what constitutes the up-to-date cuisine and 
service, in iti different branches. The author of this book is 
the great authority on culinary matters. 



DELIEE'S FRANCO-AMERICAN COOK BOOK. Price $3.50 
A new Treatise, containing over2.000 recipes, 305 different Bills 
of Fare givitig concise Instructions how to properly prepare 
and serve all kinds of domestic and foreign culinary provision 
in every way for each succeeding season, and mostly conven- 
ient for private families, clubs, re^-taurants, hotels, etc., etc. 

FILIPPINI'S THE TABLE. HOW TO BUY FOOD. HOW TO 

COOK IT AND HOW TO SERVE IT. Price. postpaid. S2 50 
Contains Stio Breakfasts. 3t'5 Luncheons. 365 Dinners forevery 
day In the year; 134 receipts for soups, nearly lilO sauces, 102 
ways of cooking eggp; 40 salads; over 300 desserts, etc, etc- 
Five hundred pages, illustrated. 



FRANC ATE LLPS THE MODERN COOK. Price $2. 

An American reprint of the twenty-eighth edition, with sixty- 
two illustrations. A practical guide to the culinary art In all 
its branches: coraprisintr In addition to English cookery, the 
most approved and recherche system In French. Italian and 
German cookery. 



THE CHEF'S REMINDER. 3rd edition. Price, $1 

Valuable as a work of reference to proprietors, managers, 
stewards, chefs, pastry cooks and all lovers of good living. 
The contents are: Breakfast. Including Fruits in Season; 
Cereals; Fish (37 kinds); Broiled meats (24 kinds); Fried 
meats < 15 kinds) ; Kntrees and miscellaneous (under 59 sep- 
arate heads; Omelets |2S kinds); eggs (85 ways); Cold meats; 
Potatoes (under 10 heads); Hot Breads and cakes; Drinks; 
several specimen breakfast menus. Wine service. Ga.mb 

LAWS OF THE UNITED STATES. LUNCHIiONS, Including SOUpS 

(under 37 heads); Relishes; Fish; Kntrees Hinder one hundred 
and flftu-neren different heads); Specimen luncheon menus. 
SUPPER, including Vegetable Salads and their Dressings 
(under 47 heads); Chating Dish Cookery and Service (under 3t) 
heads) Contains over one hundred pages full of the most 
useful Information, and should tlud a place as pocket compan- 
ion to everyone Interested directly or indirectly in the hotel 
or catering business. Those who have purchased the Urst and 
second editions will want the third also. 

A SELECTION OF DISHES. Price «1. 

The new culinary reference book by Charles Fellows. 
(A successor to his Chef's Keminder). Toe contents include: 
739 entrees. 78 hors d'oeuvres — hot and cold. 85 salads. 131 
soups, broths and bouillons, fi7 consommes, 40 kinds of fish 
and 400 ways of cooking them. 182 sauces, showing their in- 
gredients. 125 garnishes, showing their composition. 7 fancy 
butters. 10 flavoring vinegars. 8 fritter batters. 50 fancy p- tato 
di.-^hes for garnishing 24 miscellaneous recipes. 4(i valuable 
hints to cooks and stewards, a pronouncing glossary of culi- 
nary terms giving 734 translations, etc., etc. It is ot a handy 
size for carrying in the pocket. 



MEISTER'S VEST POCKET PASTRY BOOK. Price, $1 

The most useful book for pastry cooks and bread bakers ever 
published. Contains five hundred receipts including: 
50 hot puddings, pudding sauces, etc ; 77 cold puddings, side 
dishes, jellies, etc. ; 90 ice creams, water Ices, punches, etc.; 
<)8 pastes, patties, pits, tarts, etc.; 77 cakes; 17 icings, color- 
ings, sugars, etc. ; (iO bread, rolls, yeast raised cakes, griddle 
cakes, etc.; 55 miscellaneous receipts. This book is beautifully 
printed on stout linen paper and bound in full leather. It 
Is convenient size for carrylno' in the vest pocket. 



APPLEGREBN'S BARKEEPERS' GUIDE. OR How to MIX 
DRINKS Price, postpnid. $1.00 

The receipts include: Cocktails. Collins. Coolers. Daisies, 
Fizzes. Frappes, High B:ills, Hot Drinks, Mint Juleps. Miscel- 
laneous Drinks. Party Drinks. Punches, Rickeys. Smashes. 
Sours. Temperance Drinks and T.iddies. This buoK is in- 
tended to serve a useful purpose as a ■■ve>t pocket" ready 
reference where high class bar or catering service is demanded 

THE PRACTICAL HOTEL HOUSEKEEPER 

Price, postpaid $1 00 
Is a collection of the articles contributed to the Hotel 
Monthly magazine under this head fiora 189ii-190'i. Defines 
the housekeei er's duties. Illustrates systems of keeping track 
of the linen. Contains an instructive ehaiitor on The Laun- 
dry. One hundred and seventy pages of valuable information 



MURREY'S SALADS AND SAUCES- 



Price i'lO cents 



HOW TO BECOME A WAITER (RoedelspergeiPrlce 50 cents. 



ROTTENHOFER'S COOK BOOK, printed in German. Price $5. 



QUOTATIONS FOR OCCASIONS. Price. $1.50. 

A very handy book for tluding apt quotations for menus. 



JERRY THOMAS' BARTENDER'S GUIDE. Price 75 cent3 



SALADS. SANDWICHES AND CHAFING DISH DAINTIES 
Price, postpnid. $1.50 



SENN'S PRACTICAL GASTllONO.MY, 



COZART'S WAITER'S MANUAL 



Price, 81 



ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PRACTICAL COOKERY. 4 vols . *20 00 



VACHON'S BOOK OF ECONOMICAL ENTREE*, ready in 
August 1900) Price, 50 cents 

Price, $3 



yHB PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE 



BOUND VOLUMES OF THE HOTEL MONTHLY for 1893, 
1894, 1895, 189i;, 1897, 1898 and U99, the set $700. 



The Hotel Monthly Storeroom Issue Book. 

For Ascertaining Cost per Capita, Value of Stock on Hand from Day to Day, etc., etc. 

DESIGNED BY THE HOTEL MONTHLY FOR THE AVERAGE HOTEL, LARGE OR SMALL. 

PAGE MEASURES 14x16 L\CHES. 200- PAGE BOOK $2; 400-PAGE BOOK $4. 

(See chapter on Storeroom Bookkeeping on page 15 of this book.) 

Date, 



1 — 


KITCHEN 








DINING ROOM 








OFFICE 








BAR 






a doz. 


Suieettireada 


1 


eo 


6 sat. 


Cream 


3 






J«> 


1 


50 


seal. 


Bourb(m 


9 


50 


10 lb,. 


Flour 




so 


■iOlbt. 


Sugar 


1 




1 bot. 


Ink 




30 


3 doz. 


Lemon 




60 


3 doz. 


Bau> 




eo 


i bu. 


Pbaches 


1 


50 


6 


Toilet Paptr 




42 


2 lbs. 


Cheese 




30 


50 i6». 


Roast 


7 


50 


1 lb. 


Tta 




<5 






$2 


22 




$10 


40 




tio 


00 






$5 


95 




































































































































































































































































































































LAUNDRY 






























1(1 lbs. 


Soap 




et 




























Blueing 




20 
































.m 




































































































INDIVIDUAL ACCTS. 






























Ibbl. 


Flour { Prop rietora 
































family residence ) 


fs 


00 




















































































































HOUSEKEEPER 






























s 


Brooms 




36 




























Pumice 




25 
































.61 


















BAKERY AND PASTRY ROOM 




























Gdoz. 


Eggs 


1 


20 


























10 lbs. 


Butter 


2 


25 












RF.CAPITULATION J 


















ts 


i5 












Kitchen 


10 






























DiniDt; Room 


s 


95 




























Bakerj & Pastry Room 


3 


45 




























Office 


2 


22 




























Laundrj 




84 




















SERVANTS' HALL 








Houacketper 




61 


















12 lbs. 


Sugar 




60 




Serrant-9 Hall 


1 


50 


















3 lbs. 


Coffee 




90 




Miscellaneous 


























$1 


50 






St 


57 




























































Bar 


10 


40 




























Individual AccouDts 


5 






























Total, $30 


it7 




























Stock on Hand this a.M. 


aoo\oo 




























Received to-day 


t7 1 15 






























,<;|ij 




















MISCELLANEOUS 








Issues to-day 


3o!'»7 




























Stock on Hand this e.ai$l,07 


ia 




























































































House count 28 
































Cost i*r capita 87 CtS- 




































































































































L 9 





THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



A MAGAZINE DEVOTED TO 
HOTEL AND HOTEL SUPPLY 
INTERESTS. 



Published by JOHN WILLY, at 325 Dearborn Street, Chicago. 
Subscription price 

ONE DOLLAR A YEAR. 



•The Practical Hotel Stewaid" was orig^inally 
printed serially in the Hotel Monthly. 



WRITE FOR SAMPLE COPY. 



The Epicurean 

A Franco-American Culinary Encyclopedia. 

SECOND EDITION. 

Containing a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art. Illustrated 
with over Eight Hundred Engravings made Especially for the Work. 

BY CHARLES RANHOFER3 CHEFOFDELMONICO'S. 



PRICE 



In cloth binding, eig-ht dollars 

In half morocco binding-, ten dollars 

In full morocco binding-, twelve dollars 



This extensive work is the result of a lifetime's experience. The author, for thirty years the Chef of 
Delmonico's, has included in this massive volume the recipes for the dishes, etc , which have made that 
house famous, many of which are of his own introduction. * * * The best and most effectual manner of 
providing healthy, enjoyable, and nutricious food, economically, without waste, is a leading feature of the 
volume. * * * Every purchaser will doubtless fine permanent advantage and satisfaction in possession of 
the volume ; many a recipe or entire menus may prove of more value to the user than many times the price 
of the work. * * * It is so written and arranged as to be clearly and fully appreciated, even by the simplest 
reader of the English language. * * * The work is, in all detail, up to date; all recipes have been fully 
and satisfactorily tested, and are in daily use at Delmonico's. * * * No other work of tlie kind in existence 
is nearly as thorough and extensive as is this one, which may be considered to have practically exhausted 
the subject. * * * There are over 3 700 recipes, in all, in the book. These include variety ranging from 
the simplest to the most elaborate, including those in use at Courts of Europe, and from its pages may be 
prepared dishes and menus for from one person to a party of 400, or double or treble tliat number, etc. 
*** A great variety of bills of fare are given, for each montli of the year, for Breakfasts, Luncheons, 
Dinners, Suppers, Ambigus, Buffets, also for Invalids, etc., and a selection of specially interesting Bills of 
Fare of Delmonico's from 1862 to 1894. Menus of dinners to Presidents Grant and Johnson, to Bartholdi, 
Charles Dickens, De Lesseps, the Comte de Paris, and to other distinguished guests are given. * * * It 
supplies ample matter for use of purchasers of limited means, as well as for those of generous resources' 
* * * By means of reference numbers, also its exhaustive index, ready access is had, without a moment's 
delay, to any item of information sought in its pages. * * * It also supplies useful and important hints to 
those about entering pertinent professions. * * * It has an index for marketing, everything in season. * * * 
The chapter on Ice Creams contains the most complete and exhaustive treatise ever written on that 
subject. * * * The titles of dishes, etc., are given both in French and English. * * * The illustrations, of 
which there are about 800, will prove of great value. They include table service of this and other coun- 
tries. Instructions how to prepare, garnish, and serve, according to the traditional rules of our most able 
predecessors, and now followed by the principal chefs in Europe and the United States, are given. * * * 
THIS IS THE AUTHOR'S ONLY BOOK. Art and science combined have enabled him, at a great ex- 
pense, to produce this Encyclopedia of Gastronomic and Culinar> knowledge and information, such as 
must take its place as the standard work of its kind, for use of Chefs, Cooks, Stewards, Hotel Proprietors, 
Pastry Cooks, Confectioners, Ice Cream Makers, Caterers, and for Private Families. Also for Sani- 
tariums, etc. 



Table service and bills of fare, 180 pages, 
with illustrations. 

Elementary methods and utensils, with 
Illustrations. 

Soups, over 200 recipes. 

Sauces, 220 recipes. 

Garnishlntjs, nearly 150 recipes, with il- 
lustrations. 

Cold side dishes, 65 recipes, with illus- 
trations. 

Hot side dishes, 157 recipes, with illus- 
trations. 

MoUusks and Crustaceans, 99 recipes, 
with illustrations. 

Fish, 218 recipes, with illustrations. 

Beef, 165 recipes, with illustrations. 

Veal, 105 recipes, with illustrations. 



PARTIAL CONTENTS: 

Mutton. 75 recipes, with illustrations. 
Lamb, 100 recipes, with illustrations. 
Pork, 49 recipes, with illustrations. 
Poultry, 224 recipes, with illustrations. 
Game, 103 recipes, with illustrations. 
Miscellaneous entrees, li*8 recipes, with 

illustrations. 
Cold service, 2H7 recipes, with iUustra- 

tio IS. 
Vegetables, 172 reinpes.with illustrations 
Egga. 101 recipes, with illustrations. 
Farinaceous, 37 recipes. with illustrations 
Hot sweet entremets, 134 recipes, with 

illustrations. 
Cold sweet entremets, 99 recipes, with 

illustrations. 
Pastry, 279 recipes, with illustrations. 



Bakery, 19 recipes, with Illustrations. 

Ices, 189 recipes, with illustrations. 

Confectionary, 90 recipes, with illustra- 
tions. 

Wines, 10 articles, with illustrations. 

Styles of setting tables of the last cen- 
tury, illustrated. 

Fruits and preserves, fully treated, with 
illustrations. 

Delmonico's Menus. 1862 to 1394. 

Menus for lunch, for every month of the 
year. 

Menus for breakfast, dinner and supper 
for each month of the year. 

Menus for invalids. 

Menus for garden parties. 

Etc., etc., etc. 



Followed by an Exhaustive Index, occupying 44 pages. 



Large Octavo, nearly 1,200 pag-es. Illustrated with 800 

very strongly bound. 



Engraving's. BeautifuUj and 



It is for sale by JOHN WILLY, the Hotel Monthly, 325 Dearborn St., Chicago. 

Epicurean. 



Cooking for Profit 



'mr 



¥* 



* \ And Eight Weeks at a 

Two Books In One. \ 

Summer Resort 



About 400 Pages. 



^ 



By JKSSCrP WHITEHEAD. 

A REMARKABLE VOLUME WHICH SHOWS HOW MONEY IS MADE BY BOARDING 
PEOPLE AND WHAT IT COSTS TO LIVE WELL. 



SECOND EDITION, - - PRICE, $3.00, 



CONTENTS 



Part first — some Articles for the Show Case. The Lunch Counter. Restaurant Breakfastsi 
Lunches and Dinners. Hotel Breakfasts, Dinners and Suppers. Oyster and Fish House Dishes- 
The Ice C earn Saloon. Fine Bakery Lunch. Quaker Dairy Lunch. Confectionery Goodsi 
Homemade Beers, etc 

PART SECOND — Eight Weeks at a Summer Resort. A Diary. Our daily Bill of Fare and 
zchat it costs. A Party Supper for Forty Cents per Plate. The Art of Charging Enough. A 
School Commencement Supper. Question of How Many Fires. Sez'cn Fires for fifty fcrsoris vs. 
one Fire for fifty. The Round of Beef for Steak. A ISIeat Block and Utensils. Bill of Groceries. 
A Month' s Sufplyfor a Summer Boarding House, zvith Prices. A Refrigerator Wanted. About 
keeping Provisions; Pestaura?it Patterns. A Good Hotel Refrigerator. Cost of Ice to supply 
it. Shall we have a Bill of Fare? Peasons zuhy: a Blank Form. Is Fish Cheaper than Meat? 
Trouble with the Coffee. How to Scrub the Kitchen. Trouble with Steam Chest and Vegetables. 
Trouble with the Oatmeal. Building a House with Bread Crusts. Puddings without Eggs. A 
Pastry and Store Room Necessary. A Board on a Barrel. First Bill of Fare. Trouble with 
Sour Meats. Trouble with the Ice Cream. The Landlord's Birthday Supper. Shozuiug hozu 
rich and fancy Cakes zucre made and iced and ornamented zuithout using Eggs. The Land- 
lady's Birthday Supper, Trouble in Planning Dinners. Trouble with Captain Johnson. Trouble 
in Serving Meals. Trouble with the Manager. Breakfasts and Suppers for Six Cents per Plate. 
Hotel Dinners for Ten Cents per Plate. Hotel Dinners for Seventeen Cents per Plate. Supper 
for Forty for Eight Cents per Plate. Breakfast for Forty for Nine Cents per Plate. An Expensive 
Wedding Breakfast, /o;" the Colonel and the Banker s Daughter . Four Thousand Meals. Review 
Groceries for 4,000. Meat, Fish and Poultry for 4,000. Flour, Sugar and Coffee for 4,000. 
Butter and Eggs for 4,000, Potatoes, Fresh Vegetables and Fruits for 4,000. Canned Fruits and 
Vegetables for 4,000. Milk and Cream for 4,000. Total Cost of Provisions for 4,000. How to 
Save Twenty Dollars per Week. How Much we Eat. How Much we Drink. How Much to 
Serve. Work and Wages. Laundry Work. Fuel, Light and Ice. Total Cost of Board. How 
Much Profit? How Many Cooks to How Many People? Boarding the Employees. Boarding 
Children. Meals for Ten or Fifteen Cents. Country Board at Five Dollars. If — a Bundle of 
Supposition. Keeping Clean Side Towels. How Many Fires — Again. A Proposal to Rent for 
next Season. Conclusion. 

THE CONTENTS ALSO INCLUDE: 

One Hundred Different Bills of Fare, of Actual Meals, all with New Dishes; the Amount and the Cost 

per Head. 
Eleven Hundred Recipes. AH live matter that every Cook needs — both by Weight and by Cup and Spoon 

Measure. 
A Diciionarv of Cookery, Comprised in the Explanations of Terms and General Information contained in 

the Directions. 
Artistic Cookery. Instructions in Ornamentation, with Illustrations, and Notes on the London Cookery 

Exhibition of 1885. 

It is thoroughly analytical, practical, readable, and the first book of the principles of the systematic hotel-keeping 

FOR SALE BY 

John Willy, The Hotel Monthly, 325 Dearborn St., Chicago. 



HOTEL BBANK BOOKS. 

Among the blank books for hotel use, de- 
signed by the HOTEL MONTHLY, and which 
have been adopted by hotels in all parts of 
America are: 

The "H. M." Transient Ledger 

150-page, tight back, not indexed • $2.00 

3oo-page, spring back, half Russia, indexed, 4.00 

500-page, " " " " " 6.00 

Soo-page, patent flat opening " " 7.50 

800-page, patent flat opening " " 9.50 

The Four-X Transient Ledger 
300-page, spring back, half Russia, indexed 5.00 
500-page, patent flat opening " 8.50 

The Economical Transient Ledger 

200-page, cloth bound, indexed ■ - 3.00 

300-page, spring back, half Russia, indexed 4.00 

500-page, ', '■ " " " 6.00 

500-page, " " patent flat opening 7.50 

Storeroom Issue Book 200-page, 2.00 

" " " 400-page, 4.00 

File Book, 300-page, indexed 3.00 

Valuable Package Check BooKioo-leaves 50 

Express Package Receipt Book indexed, 1.50 

Pay Roll Book - - - 1.50 

The H. M. Bellboy Book 50 cents 

The H M. Special Order Book 50 " 

Hotel Registers Ready Made 

150-page, without blotter - - - I2.50 

100-page, blotter every other leaf - - 3.00 

The Bailey Stock Book, adapted for wine 

or linen room - - - i.oo 

The Mulligan Letter Forwarder, indexed I1.50 
All the above books are carried in stock by 
the HOTEL MONTHLY ready for immediate 
shipment. Sample leaves or circular Illus- 
trating the rulings, will be sent to hotels 
upon request. Address, 



JOHN WILLY, 
325 Dearborn St., 



Chicago. 



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